Leathercrafting Creations: PYC

[ItsJustNC]

I do use CAD softwares to get lineworks out from time to time, it is great for getting symmetry right for organic designs. But the thing is, it still is essentially the same as using a pencil on a high grammage board. Only more convienant. Because you can easily get a 90 degree cut with the right drawing tools.

Oh, the other advantage is that you can export your CAD file as an EPS file and have them laser cut on acrylics.

Edited March 10, 2012 by ItsJustNC

[sirkus]

I use illustrator, print the pattern on a plotter machine and then carefully pencil to leather. I work at a copy shop and I'll print onto a cardstock for certain curves.

[Friday]

itsjustnc - that wallet is amazing. I'd love to see how the weave wears over time - it must be really nice.

Zippers - much like the rest of the group, I just buy them at a fabric store and cut them as needed.

[corter]

I use pencil and ruler on leather for the prototypes, then just use a ruler and knife once I've got the measurements down in my head. If I do make patterns (I've only ever made 2), it's out of 8-10oz leather.

Finished up the first draft of my snap graphic- now for tweaking. Line 24 size, matte copper and matte silver.

[JAW]

Those snaps are gonna be next level dude

[Happy Hooligan]

Thanks for the zipper advice...

I do all cutting and design by hand and a knife. I use cardboard patterns or thick paper or free hand. I like the non-perfectness of a handmade product.

I really dig those snap fronts corter. Are you having them silk screened to the snaps or actually having them molded?

[corter]

Thanks guys! They're being made in Georgia by Scovill, all metal. The lettering will be raised, plated brass to prevent rust, and there won't be a clear coat on the copper so it'll patina all nice unlike the copper rivets a lot of companies sell.

[GriffingAve]

I design my patterns in Google sketchup. Very easy to use. I then export them to a .svg file and import them to my wife's automatic paper cutter. I use some heavy card stock (140lb. watercolor pads) and cut them out in the paper cutter. They make great patterns. Sketchup is great cause you can make sure all the dimensions of all the pieces fit which is harder to do when you draw by hand.

[GriffingAve]

Here's a bag I just finished tonight. It's the first bag I've done on my sewing machine. I have an old J Peterman replica US post bag which I used as the basis for this project. This bag is a copy of the J Peterman with a few small changes to suit my tastes. I guess I did this bag as a study in design and construction.

Andrew

[lazybum]

Looks good! Coincidentally I just finished my own take of the postal bag too as an experimental foray into the world of full sized bags.

[ItsJustNC]

Scotch grain Chromexcel! I'm ridiculously excited to play with this stuff.

Stuff looks great dude.! Would love to see an inlay of that...!

itsjustnc - that wallet is amazing. I'd love to see how the weave wears over time - it must be really nice.

Thanks.! Was done on commission. Hope the guy wouldn't mind updating me with some picture few months down the road too.! Kinda psyched.!

Thanks guys! They're being made in Georgia by Scovill, all metal. The lettering will be raised, plated brass to prevent rust, and there won't be a clear coat on the copper so it'll patina all nice unlike the copper rivets a lot of companies sell.

Dude, you might wanna try getting some silica gel and making a simple dry box. Once i had a batch of order in my previous company with 600 tarnished hardwares. And they were needed to be sent out the very next day. Nearly fused with the couch trying to brasso all 600 damn snaps.

That will keep your raw copper and silver pristine till you decided to use it. After all you are buying in bulk. Gonna take you awhile till you exhust your supply and a dry box should help in the long run.

[Panzer]

Hey guys, I've been wanting to get into making my own stuff for a long time and now finally gonna have a bit of free time to do this! But before going crazy and buying stuff I wanted to ask a couple of questions!

Ok, so basically I want to make more modern (probably wrong word to use lol) wallets and bags than seen here. Just what I'm in to. Like the Comme des Garcons Wallets or this case http://www.oki-ni.com/icat/accessories/jil-sander-mens-ipad-python-show-bag/invt/js1235top or this http://www.ssense.com/men/product/marc_by_marc_jacobs/nifty_gifty_python_backpack/45764?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=products&utm_term=45764. After reading through a lot of this thread I don't think most of you guys are into that stuff but I thought I might still be able to get some help. I assume the leathers are thinner than the majority used here? What basic equipment will I need to make a simple wallet. Can I hand-stitch these? Should I try and make more normal stuff first like the things seen here for practice? Anything else you think I need to know before I attempt anything?

Thanks!

[GriffingAve]

You can hand stitch a wallet but in general, the aesthetic of the stuff in your link would be better done by machine. The reason is that hand sewing generally uses a thicker thread so it has a chunkier (not In a bad way) look. Also, a lot of these fashion wallets use very thin and soft chrome tan leathers (under 1mm) and it's very hard to hand stitch them well because the stitches tend to bunch if you're not careful about how much tension you apply (this is less of an issue with thicker, harder veg tan leathers because the leather itself offers more resistance). also,mkeep inmind that if you want to hand sew that bag in the second link, it'll take you like 40 hours because of the number of stitches required. I know my first bag did...

Andrew

[Panzer]

Alright thanks for the quick reply! Now to look into getting a sewing machine.... Can anyone recommend a good cheap one I can begin with that can handle around 1mm thick leather. From what you're saying I gather that I don't need a stitching awl, etc either? All i need is a sewing machine, needles, sewing thread, leather and patterns, and zips if needed I guess? Also, sorry to be asking so much, but anyone have any websites that'll help me get started with patterns and type of stitching needed in different situations? Really appreciate the help!

Thanks

[JAW]

Yea, that backpack is probably not a great starting point. Also if you havent made anything before, those exotic skins are very pricey, and you may be dissapointed if you mess up on a very exspensive piece of leather. I would start really simple, and if you want to use soft thin chrome tanned leathers, you can get away with using a home sewing machine, although youll find your limits quickly. Ive made some backpacks but it took me a long time before I tackled a project like that. Good luck.

[GriffingAve]

Alright thanks for the quick reply! Now to look into getting a sewing machine.... Can anyone recommend a good cheap one I can begin with that can handle around 1mm thick leather. From what you're saying I gather that I don't need a stitching awl, etc either? All i need is a sewing machine, needles, sewing thread, leather and patterns, and zips if needed I guess? Also, sorry to be asking so much, but anyone have any websites that'll help me get started with patterns and type of stitching needed in different situations? Really appreciate the help!

Thanks

Go to leatherworker.net and look in the sewing machine sub forum. There's a pinned thread at the top on choosing a sewing machine. You will get more information then you'll ever need on the subject. Keep in mind though that that forum is geared much more to folks that sew holsters and saddles so they will always recommend a heavyweight machine. With that said, a home sewing machine will have a hard time even with 1mm leather (considering that most sewing will be two layers a least and some seam areas may go up to three or four. You're talking about more thickness than those machines can handle). Ideally a compound feed walking foot machine is better but of course they are very expensive but if you know what you're looking for, good deals can be found on Craigslist. Also, if you're gonna get an industrial type machine, get one with a servo motor, especially of you're new to sewing leather. You have much much better control than a clutch motor.

Andrew

[Panzer]

Yeah, I was gonna just start trying to make simpler wallets to get a feel for it. Seeing as its really only practice the quality of leather shouldn't matter too much I think, you reckon I can get leather for cheap of eBay? Again, thanks so much for the help! Pretty excited about starting this

Edited March 11, 2012 by Panzer

[t.wayne]

i also have nothing but good things to say about buckleguy. incredibly fast, great customer service and fantastic prices. if we do this copper plated sam brown studs project, that's where i'll be ordering them from.

speaking of that project, i've only received one DM so far. is this still something that people want to do? i'm really not in a rush, so if people want to take their time with it that's cool with me. just wanted to get an idea of everyone's interest still. let me know!

[t.wayne]

also, those snaps are going to be fantastic corter. very nice job with the design. i can't wait to see what they look like in the end. can i ask what they're going to run you and how many you're ordering?

[corter]

Dude, you might wanna try getting some silica gel and making a simple dry box. Once i had a batch of order in my previous company with 600 tarnished hardwares. And they were needed to be sent out the very next day. Nearly fused with the couch trying to brasso all 600 damn snaps.

That will keep your raw copper and silver pristine till you decided to use it. After all you are buying in bulk. Gonna take you awhile till you exhust your supply and a dry box should help in the long run.

Thanks for the advice dude! I've had tarnished copper conches too, so I figured I'd just vacuum seal them in bags of 500 sets.

[GriffingAve]

Looks good! Coincidentally I just finished my own take of the postal bag too as an experimental foray into the world of full sized bags.

Got any pics?

Andrew

[simontuntelder]

Looks good! Coincidentally I just finished my own take of the postal bag too as an experimental foray into the world of full sized bags.

I'm also super interested in seeing some pics.

[simontuntelder]

BTW, I'm sure many of you have seen the video of the Dunhill document case (

) being made, and I was just wondering if you know what sort of glue he is using? Or what sort of glue/cement you are using? I'm not that pleased with the cement I'm using at the moment and I would like to start using a better one.

[GriffingAve]

He's using some sort of PVA (PolyVinylAcetate) cement. Tandy sells something like that called Tanners Bond Leathercraft Cement. The reason I say it's PVA cement is because of that plastic glue tub he's using. The other general type of cement is contact cement (sold either as Tandy Tanners Bond Contact Cement or Barge Cement). For contact cement you have to use a teflon glue pot or else it'll stick the lid completely shut.

I use both of these glues. Contact cement is a much stronger bond than PVA cement. You basically put the glue on each of the two contacting sides to be glued together, wait for it to dry until the glue is tacky, and then stick the pieces together. You have to be careful cause they basically bond right away so you have to make sure you position the pieces carefully cause you really can't reposition them.

With PVA glue, you put the glue on one of the two sides to be glued together and push the pieces together wet. This gives you some time to reposition the pieces as the bond will take a bit to set in.

There is a third basic type of glue which is rubber cement. Works kinda like contact cement but the bond is not as strong as either. You can peel the two pieces together even when the glue is dry.

I basically use PVA if I just need to tack something together for sewing and I use contact cement if I need a permanent bond that needs some strength to it. Hope this helps.

Andrew

Edited March 12, 2012 by GriffingAve

[GriffingAve]

Here's a wallet leash I just finished. Made the belt hook myself.

[Panzer]

Hi guys, so I went on Leatherworker and was recommended sewing machines that cost near $1000! Do I need one so expensive? I'd be making wallets,cases, maybe purses, etc with leathers of around 1mm thickness, like chrome tan leathers or printed cow hide. I know eBay is notorious for saying sewing machines can cope with leather and can't, but I was wondering if I could get your opinions on these machines, and why they are suitable or not. Can I use a semi-industrial machine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outstanding-Heavy-Duty-Jones-Brother-Sewing-Machine-Dropfeed-Instructions-/120872639974?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item1c24921de6#ht_3023wt_1185

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hard-Find-Heavy-Duty-Brother-Freearm-Sewing-Machine-21-Stitches-Instructions-/160759677931?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item256e0603eb#ht_3030wt_1185

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-SEMI-INDUSTRIAL-BROTHER-JONES-SEWING-MACHINE-SEWS-UP-5MM-/290680552211?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item43ade93b13#ht_1794wt_952

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Semi-Industrial-Heavy-Duty-Brother-made-Central-Stunning-Sewing-Machine-/280841182819?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4163705e63#ht_2652wt_1185

Thanks! Didn't realise equipment would be so expensive.....

[JAW]

That Machine is not what you are looking for. Craigslist is your friend, search for Juki, consew, walking foot. Youcan probably scoreone for more like 500. If you wanna go cheap, frequent thrift stores and find an old singer or something that's actually made of metal. I have an old singer,thst I got for ten bucks. If you break it you are only out a little. Theres no grtting around theprice of industrial machinary.

[TheBlackGoat]

Those machines are not for leather! Don't be fooled by everyone saying heavy duty on eBay.

Better to save then buy a junky machine. Most Vegtan leather sewing machines are going to cost $1000 or more.

You can always go to your local shoe cobbler and ask if they have any for sale or know of someone that is selling.

You can find good used stuff for $300 and up.

Jaw is right, walking foot is the way to go

Edited March 13, 2012 by TheBlackGoat

[Happy Hooligan]

if you're sewing lighter weight leather, old singers such as the 15-91, 201-2, 306K would be the way to go if you can't afford or find a true walking foot. But use the biggest needles you can like a 16 or 18. sometimes they're hard to find.

the machines should be in the 100 dollar range. But it would be better to just save up for a good walking foot used machine...

[Panzer]

Thanks for the quick replies guys! Honestly I just don't want to spend a lot on a sewing machine as I am just beginning this, like for whatever reason if it doesn't work out I will have wasted a lot of money, though I guess I can sell it again....I think i'm gonna look for the ones you recommended superjunkie and then if I really like what I'm doing I won't mind investing a lot more into it. Now ima play the waiting game till I find something for a good deal.