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Tyro1

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Unless you want APCs, selvage Edwins or Naked & Famous just measure and buy online like the rest of us.

And those Somets at AOI are damn good value if they've got your size.

Well Im not expecting someone to point me to a treasure trove of hardcore japanese selvedge but it doesn't hurt to know whats available. Personally I find it nice to be able to try stuff on to get the right fit rather than making essentially a (well)educated guess and buying online, besides I presumed that melbourne being melbourne and Imperials being Australian made that there would be somewhere that actually stocks them.

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...melbourne being melbourne and Imperials being Australian made that there would be somewhere that actually stocks them.

I tried finding stockists a year or so ago to no avail. Those who tried stocking Imperials moved to cheaper brands (cheap mondays, edwyns). Guess for the same reason AOI is dropping Somet.

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Anyone know good places in melbourne for quality shirts?

Chadstone shopping center

Doncaster shopping center

Assin

Chiodo for comme des garcons

Chapel st.

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thought to share those queried re: ph@ em..

so paul harnden ss11 has finally landed at em late evening yesterday, and i just went and check out in the morning..

wont be able to recall the details and may be incorrect, but here's the gist :

in the mens section :

- several style of jackets/coats.. long blazers, short blazers, pocket blazers... with two notable fabrics, called black 1 lined/unlined and black 2 lined,

black 1 was very crispy and dry, with subtle checkered texture and black 2 is softer, with pinstrips... both with wool in compositions.. one of them has another mix of other material.

- there's single breast artist coat, (in one of those black # fabrics)

- bread-maker, in navy, thick heavy gabardine cotton.

- jerkin jacket, comes in double layer silk, in black, (reminisce to the SS10 organza jacket, but this SS11 is thicker and more substantial, i find) and a oiled cotton in olives.

- trousers, they got the bent cropped trousers and short pants in the Black # fabrics..

- knits.. they have 3-4 style of knits, regular cardigan, grand pa knit, knit jerkin.. all in charcoal-black

- buttoned shirts.. collared and none collared, in 3 different fabrics,, white / black / and light blue. black comes with thick stripes... like the AW10 version except thicker.. light blue in oxford weave..

- pyjamas, a combo - shirts/pants in sheeny black silk...

- hats - 3 style.. captain caps in white/tan, and oiled cotton summit cap, brim in wire, and another without, in olives..

- 2 new style of shoes .. one canvas + leather.. in white/tan derby style..and, another is silk over leather.. in black/darkgreen with victorian floral motifs, oxford style.. (i think)

- messenger/record bag, black painted/waxed with subtle gold dusts.

womens buy was huge.. dint manage to see them as it was already packed there... but saw alot of lovely prints.. and striped dresses and etc..

anyway..

there's almost every size in every garment.. XS-XXL, but most of the small sizes were already gone.. end up oscillating between the oiled cotton and double layered silk jerkin..

so end up buying this.

jerkin.png

..

overall, it's a nice/heavy buy for summer/spring collection, with alot of transeasonal pieces to accommodate the southern hemisphere incoming winter, ... and pricing wise it is certainly cheaper due to strong aud.

its the usual harnden affair for me - some pieces that I like, but i unfortunately don't look good in them; and there are pieces that i wasn't fond with, but after trying them, they just connect in a mysterious way..

their next drop probably is m.a+, ccp, and then elena....

.

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would love to get some cropped knee bent pants as well, the full length ones do not look all that good (at least on me) without a bit of rolling up ......hopefully they are offering cropped for the next season and hopefully they will be done in suede.....

what do you think about the ccp pieces being offered by various boutiques so far? Have not really seen anything I like yet..........then again, need to see them in person

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you probably have seen stephen wearing the suede version in the womens,, with leggings and carpe diem reverse hide clogs? they look great..! i was given a little/not so much of a spoiler, yes, there will be leathers and tweeds again in the AW11.

well, i have to say it is interesting, but also fragmented, there are alot more trousers in the collection, like dead end jeans which i prefer over than the spirals. - but so far.. the object-dyed athrosic knee trousers and dead end dropcrotches. and the knit and jerseys are great, it seems to look better than i saw in person initially.

same, i will really have to see/try them in person to decide which pieces are really for me, too..

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I have not actually seen Stephen wearing that outfit, u have made my expectation on ph 11aw really high.....haha

The dead end jeans are something I will definitely try. Bison boots are on my list as well and some parkas, and I remember there was a great singlet. I still prefer the drop crotches from last collection to the dead end ones I have seen so far (judging from the pictures only)...... Will have to wait and see.

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i hope i did not built too much anticipation on ph aw11. haha..

he did mention it was fairly heavy in ph aw11 collections, lot's of leathers and heavy wool, but by then, it may not be suitable for the australian climate, thus possibly a much smaller buy.

yes, there are singlets, i recall only a few, buttoned dead end sleeveless shirt, perforated leather tank top, object dyed knit with rain drops texture tank top, reflective knitted vest.. etc

**and rectified a little on the rundowns..

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the rain drop material looked really interesting, was hoping to get a parka in that material but apparently only long coats. hopefully can custom order one of the shorter coat in that material later on.

I assume you would have seen a few garments in the rain drop fabric. The only thing I am worried is that, when the material gets translated into garments, it will have some glitter-like effect and not as subtle as I would like them to be, would love to hear your first hand experience from the showroom.

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yes, some things become more amplified when you see them in person. i believe you have seen the 2010 swatches? the reflective coat/suit fabrics looked ordinary and static in close-up. but when look at a distance, the reflectiveness become more striking and alive.

i am not sure which rain drop fabric you mention of, is it the one in navy-black in a heavy felted wool with reflective bits? i, too have propose to stephen as well on the parka, but unfortunately it is not foreseen as an options in the order forms. but only in coats.

the fabric sort of reminded me this, quite stunning.

night-stars.jpg

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There are some nice pieces out there:

- arthrosic knee pants at darklands and ink

- parka at PNP

- long blazer at ANY (though I wouldn't pair it with the drop crotch pants)

- bison leather at ANY

- dead end sarouel pants

Have either of you experienced the bison leather in person? How substantial is it?

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Yeah, opening in July on Clarence Street. I will make a more formal announcement soon, but we are beinging with northern hemisphere AW11 and are stocking Lost & Found, Lumen et Umbra, Incarnation, Aleksandr White, Silent and Werkstatt:Munchen.

Things are taking shape and it is promising to be an exciting launch. And we will hopefully have some exciting news for the following season.

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I've tried the bison leather on at Darklands and it's an amazing piece...

Cannot compare it to other seasons for obvious reasons but the leather was really stiff and I imagine it breaks in nicely.

Also, perfect length also for taller people (iirc you were quite tall, as well). If I had the funds, I would've copped.

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How grey was it? It looks quite dark in the pictures.

It was quite dark in fact! Although I never thought I'ld say this, but it looked better than the black version. Maybe it's because that is more consistent with the overall antique look - e.g. the rusty closure.

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