The Evolution of Jeans: Pictures, Scones and Tea

[shagnscoob]

this thread makes me want dry black slim jims SO bad...

how can i find a pair?

[watchman]

denim bar does phone orders plus free shipping. You will probably be able to find a better price though, that's just convenient

[shagnscoob]

denim bar does phone orders plus free shipping. You will probably be able to find a better price though, that's just convenient

do they carry dry black? (where could i find a better price?)

[watchman]

The last time i was there i believe they still had the dry black, and i just know that their prices aren't always the best, if i knew somewhere off hand that had a better price i would reccomend it. You can call and see what they have in stock, and what their prices are. sorry i can't be more helpful

[shagnscoob]

im thinking i might just get some ande whall's but it looks like those are temporarily out of production or something

[zk4025]

SD-103

after 2 years wear and wash every 2 month~

這是第一次去Hong Kong買的 當時因為沒有自己的SIZE(W30)

所以只好買最接近的W33,回 TW 後用煮沸的熱水把皮牌縮小而間接

把腰圍的布料抓皺了2吋所以就可以穿了,過幾年之後發現這是很笨的方法

很容易會把皮牌整個弄破所以千萬別學我,哈哈

[Tenchi]

Translation^^: "After 2 years wear and wash every 2 month~ this is first time goes to,2 which Hong Kong buys; At that time because did not have own SIZE (W30 after) therefore was only easy to buy closest W33, to return to TW with the hot water which boiled the skin sign to reduce but indirectly grasps the waist cotton material has wrinkled 2 吋 therefore could put on, after several years discovered this was the very stupid method is very easy to be able entire to make broken the skin sign therefore surely did not study me, ha ha"

Err no idea but damn thats a nice pair 非常好

How did you wash them? 您怎麼洗滌了他們?

[apu]

^ wow, thats a pretty bad translation i have to say

but good job nonetheless

the jeans was purchased during the trip to HK, but the store didnt have any size tat was right for him so he bought a 33' instead. What he did then in order to shrink the jeans was he used boiling hot water to shrink the leather tag which in turn reduces the waist size down 2 inches

so few years later he realises that what he did was kinda stupid so hoping peeps here wont repeat the same mistake

這是第一次去Hong Kong買的 當時因為沒有自己的SIZE(W30)

所以只好買最接近的W33,回 TW 後用煮沸的熱水把皮牌縮小而間接

把腰圍的布料抓皺了2吋所以就可以穿了,過幾年之後發現這是很笨的方法

很容易會把皮牌整個弄破所以千萬別學我,哈哈

[tweeds]

the jeans was purchased during the trip to HK, but the store didnt have any size tat was right for him so he bought a 33' instead. What he did then in order to shrink the jeans was he used boiling hot water to shrink the leather tag which in turn reduces the waist size down 2 inches

so few years later he realises that what he did was kinda stupid so hoping peeps here wont repeat the same mistake

haha i was reading the chinese and kind of wondering how the hell shrinking the leather would make the waist size shrink...i thought it was just my bad mandarin.

zk, 把皮牌缩小怎么会把腰圈的布料缩小呢？ (zk, how does shrinking the leather patch make the waistband smaller?)

[Tisswat]

Why not remove the leather tag and have them taken in a bit in the waist?

[tweeds]

Why not remove the leather tag and have them taken in a bit in the waist?

yeah that's why he says he later realised it's a silly thing to do...he could have damaged the leather tag completely.

although that leather patch looks pretty good now that it's shrunk!

其实，皮牌缩小了，看起来不错！

[mcflip]

I hope my sd103s turn out like that... just 15 more months to go!

Also, careful with boiling water and jeans, I did ruin my leather patch and it bums me out every time I look at it.

[zk4025]

Translation^^: "After 2 years wear and wash every 2 month~ this is first time goes to,2 which Hong Kong buys; At that time because did not have own SIZE (W30 after) therefore was only easy to buy closest W33, to return to TW with the hot water which boiled the skin sign to reduce but indirectly grasps the waist cotton material has wrinkled 2 吋 therefore could put on, after several years discovered this was the very stupid method is very easy to be able entire to make broken the skin sign therefore surely did not study me, ha ha"

Err no idea but damn thats a nice pair 非常好

How did you wash them? 您怎麼洗滌了他們?

以前都是隨意丟到洗衣機裡清洗

不過,現在我發現SUGAR CANE 有一種專洗DENIM的洗劑非常棒

我有紀錄我使用的過程,先把洗水前拍照做紀錄

這件是 REAL McCOY 的614 (100%純棉)

大約段段續續穿了三個半月,當初除了第一次的下水脫漿和縮水以外

這次是第一次要下水

1.

一方面是好玩另一方面也順便測試一下自己修改鎖鏈車後的效果

這件褲子我已經在之前就自己換上100%棉質的日本6號粗線鎖鏈車縫

而且我故意把兩腳的顏色用不一樣

一邊黃色,另一邊用金橘色的

其實當初剛換上這個車線時就已經因為機器和車線的作用

雖然棉線還沒下水但是褲腳處布料已經揪出非常明顯的波紋

所以穿了這段時間後已經有明顯的磨痕了

[zk4025]

2.

為了詳細的拍照這次我用手洗(其實一般使用洗衣機正常清洗即可)

使用的容器是家庭常見的大鋁製水盆(大小比例如上圖)

先撕開洗滌劑倒入水盆中

我用的是冷水,以蓮蓬頭將洗劑充分沖散均勻的混入清水中

根據原廠提供的混合比例將水加至約8分滿,然後泡入褲子

等牛仔褲已經充分浸入水中溼透後,我把褲子小泡個三分鐘

[zk4025]

3.

局部特別髒的地方也要特別加強的刷洗

確定沒有遺漏任何地方之後就準備用清水洗淨了

先觀察一下已經使用的泡沫水發現水的顏色雖然還是有

褲子褪色的染料,但並不是深藍,藍色的部分並不濃

反而是褲子太久沒洗而產生的黃濁色居重

反覆使用兩次清水將洗劑徹底洗淨之後就脫水

然後進入下一程序

將仕上劑(保養劑)倒入容器中

這次用的是40度C的熱水調勻

一樣把褲子泡入水中

計時20分鐘

取出褲子時觀察一下水的顏色

已經完全沒有染料褪色的痕跡

再這個程序完成時只要直接脫水然後陰乾即可

不需要再使用清水洗淨

[zk4025]

4.

最後乾燥之後拍幾張褲子的各部位特寫

仔細觀察褲子的各個部位

發現有磨擦過的所謂刷紋處髒污有明顯的洗掉了

因此刷紋有比較明顯(這點要看褲子穿的時間與磨擦的程度)

而且重點是褲子的底色幾乎和還沒下水洗之前的深度相同幾乎感覺不到褪色的痕跡也證明了不含漂白劑的護色功能是有絕對效果的若褲子只穿短暫的時間且沒有什麼磨擦

千萬別指望會出現什麼明顯的刷色

刷色絕對是穿出來的

不是用了什麼神奇的洗劑就可以憑空洗出刷色

另外褲腳處修改粗棉線的鎖鏈車

也因為經過水洗和乾燥後,棉線縮水

把褲腳的布料波紋揪得更明顯

[Guest Berget__]

Those pics just put a smile on my face =) Great job!

[zk4025]

haha i was reading the chinese and kind of wondering how the hell shrinking the leather would make the waist size shrink...i thought it was just my bad mandarin.

zk, 把皮牌缩小怎么会把腰圈的布料缩小呢？ (zk, how does shrinking the leather patch make the waistband smaller?)

以圖為證

這是正面

背面的布料因為跟皮革車縫在一起所以當皮革縮小後

布料就被揪成一陀,所以把腰圍部位的布料抓起縮短了兩吋

[tweeds]

以前都是隨意丟到洗衣機裡清洗

不過,現在我發現SUGAR CANE 有一種專洗DENIM的洗劑非常棒

我有紀錄我使用的過程,先把洗水前拍照做紀錄

這件是 REAL McCOY 的614 (100%純棉)

大約段段續續穿了三個半月,當初除了第一次的下水脫漿和縮水以外

這次是第一次要下水

1.一方面是好玩另一方面也順便測試一下自己修改鎖鏈車後的效果

這件褲子我已經在之前就自己換上100%棉質的日本6號粗線鎖鏈車縫

而且我故意把兩腳的顏色用不一樣

一邊黃色,另一邊用金橘色的

其實當初剛換上這個車現實就已經因為機器和車線的作用

雖然棉線還沒下水但是褲腳處布料已經揪出非常明顯的波紋

所以穿了這段時間後已經有明顯的磨痕了

2.為了詳細的拍照這次我用手洗(其實一般使用洗衣機正常清洗即可)

使用的容器是家庭常見的大鋁製水盆(大小比例如上圖)

先撕開洗滌劑倒入水盆中

我用的是冷水,以蓮蓬頭將洗劑充分沖散均勻的混入清水中

根據原廠提供的混合比例將水加至約8分滿,然後泡入褲子

等牛仔褲已經充分浸入水中溼透後,我把褲子小泡個三分鐘

3.局部特別髒的地方也要特別加強的刷洗

確定沒有遺漏任何地方之後就準備用清水洗淨了

先觀察一下已經使用的泡沫水發現水的顏色雖然還是有

褲子褪色的染料,但並不是深藍,藍色的部分並不濃

反而是褲子太久沒洗而產生的黃濁色居重

反覆使用兩次清水將洗劑徹底洗淨之後就脫水

然後進入下一程序

將仕上劑(保養劑)倒入容器中

這次用的是40度C的熱水調勻

一樣把褲子泡入水中

計時20分鐘

取出褲子時觀察一下水的顏色

已經完全沒有染料褪色的痕跡

再這個程序完成時只要直接脫水然後陰乾即可

不需要再使用清水洗淨

4.

最後乾燥之後拍幾張褲子的各部位特寫

仔細觀察褲子的各個部位

發現有磨擦過的所謂刷紋處髒污有明顯的洗掉了

因此刷紋有比較明顯(這點要看褲子穿的時間與磨擦的程度)

而且重點是褲子的底色幾乎和還沒下水洗之前的深度相同幾乎感覺不到褪色的痕跡也證明了不含漂白劑的護色功能 是有絕對效果的若褲子只穿短暫的時間且沒有什麼磨擦

千萬別指望會出現什麼明顯的刷色

刷色絕對是穿出來的

不是用了什麼神奇的洗劑就可以憑空洗出刷色

另外褲腳處修改粗棉線的鎖鏈車

也因為經過水洗和乾燥後,棉線縮水

把褲腳的布料波紋揪得更明顯

"in the past i used to toss them into the washing machine...

but now i realised SUGAR CANE has a very good denim soap.

i've recorded my washing process, this is the pair of jeans prior to wash.

this is a pair of REAL McCOY 614 jeans (100% cotton)

i've worn them now and then across 3.5 months, apart from the initial wash to shrink the jeans and bleed off the excess indigo, this is the first real wash.

1. [to be completed]

(shit this is tiring, where's kikidark or apu! zk, 抱歉，我今晚真得很累，无法这么快地完成翻译。。。)

[tweeds]

以圖為證

這是正面

背面的布料因為跟皮革車縫在一起所以當皮革縮小後

布料就被揪成一陀,所以把腰圍部位的布料抓起縮短了兩吋

the first picture shows the front (and leather patch)

the denim on the reverse side is attached to the leather patch, hence when the patch shrinks

the denim is also wrinkled, causing the waistband to be pulled inwards, and "shrinks" by two inches

[dismalfuture]

Is it me and my monitor or do zk's SD-103's look totally sandpapered? It seems impossible for those to be the results of 2 years wear and monthly washes. The bright white X midnightish indigo in the lap screams of doctoring... Those first Joe McCoys were much more pleasing and it's plausible the McCoys took 2 years w/o a wash and ended up looking that way, but 2 years of monthly washings on these SD103's??? er... we've seen what Ryu did with monthly washings in 1 years time, so something is not right here....

[tweeds]

before we get another lost-in-translation, i'll put it to him...

zk, dismalfuture 问，你的SD-103裤子是经过砂纸默察过程的吗？依他看来，猫须的颜色有点不对竟。。。所以，他感到好奇。

[zk4025]

"in the past i used to toss them into the washing machine...

but now i realised SUGAR CANE has a very good denim soap.

i've recorded my washing process, this is the pair of jeans prior to wash.

this is a pair of REAL McCOY 614 jeans (100% cotton)

i've worn them now and then across 3.5 months, apart from the initial wash to shrink the jeans and bleed off the excess indigo, this is the first real wash.

1. [to be completed]

(shit this is tiring, where's kikidark or apu! zk, 抱歉，我今晚真得很累，无法这么快地完成翻译。。。)

真是辛苦你了不好意思啊!!感謝囉

[zk4025]

before we get another lost-in-translation, i'll put it to him...

zk, dismalfuture 问，你的SD-103裤子是经过砂纸默察过程的吗？依他看来，猫须的颜色有点不对竟。。。所以，他感到好奇。

哈哈

對啊!!這件是很多年前買的當時不懂只想讓紋路趕快出現所以剛開始穿的時候拿砂紙磨過

後來因為發現會有不自然的痕跡才停下來

所以這件的貓須我很不滿意,只不過剛好昨天整理褲子時翻出來想起買這件跟穿的過程很有趣所以貼出來

這算是我初學時期的褲子吧

我很珍惜這份經驗

[poly800rock]

Is it me and my monitor or do zk's SD-103's look totally sandpapered? It seems impossible for those to be the results of 2 years wear and monthly washes. The bright white X midnightish indigo in the lap screams of doctoring... Those first Joe McCoys were much more pleasing and it's plausible the McCoys took 2 years w/o a wash and ended up looking that way, but 2 years of monthly washings on these SD103's??? er... we've seen what Ryu did with monthly washings in 1 years time, so something is not right here....

theyre 2 inches too big too. I don't know, i feel like he gave up on ALL his jeans after a while. Thats why they're all too high contrast for my taste...

[apu]

一方面是好玩另一方面也順便測試一下自己修改鎖鏈車後的效果

這件褲子我已經在之前就自己換上100%棉質的日本6號粗線鎖鏈車縫

而且我故意把兩腳的顏色用不一樣

一邊黃色,另一邊用金橘色的

其實當初剛換上這個車現實就已經因為機器和車線的作用

雖然棉線還沒下水但是褲腳處布料已經揪出非常明顯的波紋

所以穿了這段時間後已經有明顯的磨痕了

this paragraph was talking abt his expeirence with chainstiching, how he experimented with his jeans using 100% cotton sz6 Jap stiches on one leg and og on the other...so on

2.為了詳細的拍照這次我用手洗(其實一般使用洗衣機正常清洗即可)

使用的容器是家庭常見的大鋁製水盆(大小比例如上圖)

先撕開洗滌劑倒入水盆中

我用的是冷水,以蓮蓬頭將洗劑充分沖散均勻的混入清水中

根據原廠提供的混合比例將水加至約8分滿,然後泡入褲子

等牛仔褲已經充分浸入水中溼透後,我把褲子小泡個三分鐘

for the purpose of illustratinghow hand washing jeans is done (actually machine wash should be ok too):

use a suitable sized aluminium bucket (as pictures above)

open the washing detergent and mix well with cold water (water level abt 80% full) then soak jeans for approximately 3 hrs

3.局部特別髒的地方也要特別加強的刷洗

確定沒有遺漏任何地方之後就準備用清水洗淨了

先觀察一下已經使用的泡沫水發現水的顏色雖然還是有

褲子褪色的染料,但並不是深藍,藍色的部分並不濃

反而是褲子太久沒洗而產生的黃濁色居重

反覆使用兩次清水將洗劑徹底洗淨之後就脫水

然後進入下一程序

make sure u clean 'all' areas that seem to be dirty (or extra dirty) and once done so, u r ready for a rinse

rinse twice to get rid of the soap then u r ready for the next step

(i skipped the part abt color of water, etc)

將仕上劑(保養劑)倒入容器中

這次用的是40度C的熱水調勻

一樣把褲子泡入水中

計時20分鐘

取出褲子時觀察一下水的顏色

已經完全沒有染料褪色的痕跡

再這個程序完成時只要直接脫水然後陰乾即可

不需要再使用清水洗淨

add the conditioner into the bucket but this time, using 40 degree celsius water for mixing. soak jeans for abt 20 minutes and jeans are ready to be dried if no excess color is coming off

[no need to rinse with clean water with this step]

4.

最後乾燥之後拍幾張褲子的各部位特寫

heres a few close up shots of the jeans

仔細觀察褲子的各個部位

發現有磨擦過的所謂刷紋處髒污有明顯的洗掉了

因此刷紋有比較明顯(這點要看褲子穿的時間與磨擦的程度)

而且重點是褲子的底色幾乎和還沒下水洗之前的深度相同幾乎感覺不到褪色的痕跡也證明了不含漂白劑的護色功能 是有絕對效果的若褲子只穿短暫的時間且沒有什麼磨擦

it is observable that the previous dirty spots are now clean and the contrasting wear is now pretty clear (the wear depends how much and how 'hard' u rock ur jeans)

most importantly, not much color loss was experienced! which proves the use of non-bleach containing soap -> as long as the jeans were worn lightly/shortly so that not much wear/abrasion took place

千萬別指望會出現什麼明顯的刷色

刷色絕對是穿出來的

不是用了什麼神奇的洗劑就可以憑空洗出刷色

high contrast fade only 'evolve' through time and wear

另外褲腳處修改粗棉線的鎖鏈車

也因為經過水洗和乾燥後,棉線縮水

把褲腳的布料波紋揪得更明顯

this part refers bak to the customed chain-stitching part

hope all this makes sense

[apu]

with the SD pair, he did sand-paper them a bit cos it was one of his initial jean projects bak when he was a noob

he isnt satified as to how the jeans turned out but thought it might be interesting to post the pics up here cos its the one of the pairs which he 'learned' alot from

哈哈

對啊!!這件是很多年前買的當時不懂只想讓紋路趕快出現所以剛開始穿的時候拿砂紙磨過

後來因為發現會有不自然的痕跡才停下來

所以這件的貓須我很不滿意,只不過剛好昨天整理褲子時翻出來想起買這件跟穿的過程很有趣所以貼 出來

這算是我初學時期的褲子吧

我很珍惜這份經驗

[tweeds]

哈哈

對啊!!這件是很多年前買的當時不懂只想讓紋路趕快出現所以剛開始穿的時候拿砂紙磨過

後來因為發現會有不自然的痕跡才停下來

所以這件的貓須我很不滿意,只不過剛好昨天整理褲子時翻出來想起買這件跟穿的過程很有趣所以貼出來

這算是我初學時期的褲子吧

我很珍惜這份經驗

"haha

yes! this pair is one that was bought several years ago, when being ignorant i only wanted the contrast to come out quickly, and sandpapered them from the start

but later i found they left unnatural marks and stopped

hence i'm very unhappy with the whiskers on this pair of jeans, but while sorting my jeans yesterday i found these and thought the process of wearing this pair was very interesting and posted them up.

consider this my beginner's pair

i value this particular experience very much."

whoops. doubled apu's work. sorry mate

[apu]

no worries mat

urs is a more detailed translation anyway!

good work

[moykky]

SD-103

The 'honeycombing' goes almost through the whole leg. Nice. I'd just get rid of the leather patch, it's the denim that matters anyways...