Chain stitching in the UK

[fre-co]

This is just to test the water really.....

My mum has the opportunity to aquire a union special chain stitch machine, as she is an seamstress/upholsterer by trade and has a cousin in the sewing machine business.

Now, as far as I know there is nowhere in the UK that offers a hemming service with chainstitching, so my question is, would people be interested in a mail order service if it was available?

Obviously the machine is quite an outlay in the first place so it would be quite nice to get some feedback from denim heads before any further enquiries are made.

The next step of course would be to source the correct quality of cotton thread and colours for different denim makers.

Cheers

[viv1984viv]

oh. my. god.

I would happily pay a bit for chainstitch.

yes yes yes.

I think a guy called synthi would too. Hes very clued up about threads and whatnot, I imagine he would be able to drop some knowledge your way...

Ive been contemplating if its really worth it to post my sammies to big and back actually, please please keep me posted on this.

edit - check this thread out.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=21570

[fre-co]

Yes I read that thread, I was wondering if it would be a viable option.

We are not in it to make enough money to retire and buy a carribean island but as long as we can make enough money to pay for the machine and labour, it would be something worthwhile. If on the other hand its, yourself, synthi and me who are the only people particular enough about hemming then it may take a few years to pay for the machine!

Things I was wondering really are how many people who read this forum are based in the UK and are willing to pay a little extra for the service rather than going to their local tailor, because by the time you post jeans tu us and pay return post and the fee it's going to cost more, obviously... unless you are local and can drop them off. (London or north Herts).

[collie27]

There's a bunch of people on Crooked Tongues who would also be interested.... stick a thread in the "Other Brands" forum

[dognobbler]

I would be interested in that service if it was available.

Regards

Andy

[viv1984viv]

Ive often dreamt that if I started a denim shop, I would offer chainstitch and have the market sussed. But I think in reality ( I dont know how much a union special costs.. ) it would take a while for the machine to pay for itself. I cant imagine many people wanting pay much more than 15 or 20 quid, postage and all...

Im pretty sure the majority of people who buy japanese denim do care about chainstitching and would rather pay extra and go to you. However, not every member here is a japanese denim feind.. and of those who are only some would be in the UK.

That said, I can imagine for every guy like me who would love your service you would be hemming 2 or 3 jeans for him/her... and they would keep coming back to you I expect, if the job is done well.

I presume a union special machine retains its value, so you may be able to sell it on???

Maybe you should set up a poll, or ask a moderator how many UK members there are?

[fre-co]

Cheers Viv, exactly the thoughts I have been having! And great advice with the poll idea.... now I wonder if I can set up a poll thread........

[drgitlin]

It might be worth getting in touch with places like American Classics and other purveyors of good quality denim, to alert them of your services. They could probably send lots of trade your way.

[Gem_art]

As Dr. Jonboy suggests having some kind of arrangement with the top denim stores would be a good idea but I'd gladly pay up to £15 (about double the hemming rate in London) to get my jeans chainstitched...

[mr.indigo]

This sounds great! I would use this service.

[JBee]

book me in

I know quite a few people who would appreciate this kind of service in the u.k. and would gladly pass on your details if it were to come to fruition

[dunk]

Defo. I fancy a pair with a small cuff. Sucks being a 29" leg!

[synthi]

Fre$co Nice thread (hardy ha - excuse the pun). Hmm, very interesting stuff. If you pulled this off I would pay £20 per pair + shipping - that's how much I demand the service but frankly if you did a quick Excel spreadsheet with some discrening forecasts I think it would reveal that it would take you probably 2-5 years to break even. Sorry to put it that way, I know you're not approaching this as a business opportunity.

The other thing to remember is that these things are antiques so you'd have to factor in spares + repairs for the motor possibly. Basically you'd be doing it for love, not money. Which it seems you already know!

Oh, another consideration - there are a few Union Special chainstitch machines (what ringring calls 'double lockstitch' type chainstitch machines, not the dressmaking chainstich) but afaik there is only one that is specifically designed to hem denim jeans. It comes complete with the hem attachment at the front and what they call a 'hedgehog' rear puller to drag the heavyweight denim fabric. If you pick up a Japanese denim mag you'll see it here and there - looks compact and extremely beautiful.

This machine has a very unique signature, the chainstich pattern looks boxy. Union Special machines that are adapted to chainstich the hem of jeans (Gordon's machine at BIG for instance) yeild a more looped effect on the chainstitching. Also the adapted machines wont fold the fabric in the same way, principally because with the lack of the required front attachment, it's up to the operator to fold the hem before the machine feeds it for sewing. With the proper attachment however, the fabric is rolled as opposed to being neatly folded over and it's this that accentuates the roping effect we love. This is all hard to describe but very plain for the eye to see.

Yet another factor is thread. You'd probably have to approach Gutermann or Coats to enquire about non mercerised cotton in the required hues. And persuade them to sell you low quantities.

As you may have read, I have considered buying a US hemmer and setting it all up. May I ask where your mum is sourching the machine? It may be the one that caught my eye a few months ago in which case I may learn another 'snooze lose' lesson hehe.

[synthi]

OK just consulted my Photobucket pics, here is a pair of Full Counts featuring a chainstich hem that has a rounded chainstitch effect:

And here is the hem of a pair of Lee Japan 1937 hair on hide 101's featuring the chainstitch signature of the Unio Special hemmer that's secifically for the hem of jeans, note the angular, boxier signature:

Where is zk4025? He would be able to drop some mad knowledge about all this stuff.

[fre-co]

Cheers synthi, I was hoping you would jump in on this.

Thanks for the interesting info and advice. These are all things we need to consider, but yes really it's for the love of denim and frustration of not being able to get this done that sparked the idea in my head. I'm not handing in my notice at work just yet.

My mum's cousin is a sewing machine engineer, so it is through him that the machine is available... but there is also a place in tooting/balham in London that have quite a lot of knowledge on vintage machines. Very interesting to see the difference between the two machines' stitching there, and as close as possible to the original is what I would be striving for. Now I'm comparing my Hinoya, Osada and Amerikaya hemmed jeans, haha.

As far as thread goes, I understand that the Japanese shops (Amerikaya, Hinoya etc) get the thread direct from the denim brands they stock. Do you have any idea about this? I've looked at Gutermann and they seem like the obvious local choice for the UK.

Cheers, I'll keep you all updated on this.

[deadpan]

I'd def be up for paying more for this service...desperately needed in the UK. My sister is a designer, so i'll ask her about obtaining pure cotton thread from japan if you want, and how much you would need to buy.

[fre-co]

Cheers for the offer deadpan..... that'd be helpful.

[viv1984viv]

hey fresco, any developments????

[fre-co]

No news yet, I'm trying to arrange the machine..... Hopefully I'll have some news before too long.

Cheers

[deadpan]

Asked around, and all cotton thread can be got I think...let me know if you're having any trouble with getting any particular colours and i'll see what I can do:D

[modernlover]

Count me in - I've been waiting for this moment for years.

I've tried to get www.aeroleatherclothing.com to do it by post but they refused saying there was no demand! They said they could do a perfect job too, but I've heard that many many times before....

I've got a lovely unworn pair of two-year-old LVCs in need of PROPER stitching that were bolloxed up by somone recommended by Cinch or American Classics.

[sybaritical]

Swimwear.

NIce one.

[Paul T]

Good luck, do count me in.

[fre-co]

Nice to see my thread bumped..... no news yet. Tracking down a machine is not easy.

Thanks for the input chaps.

[Confabulor]

Count me in too mate.

I'd be happy to pay for this service for sure!

[cosmicflop]

Another interested London-based poster here. Do keep us informed.

[Mr Black]

And yet another London based interested poster here:)

[scully_100]

and again.

I would go for two pairs as soon as you said go.

[jgpp63]

I would use it,check out Ran and Oi Polloi in Manchester who both sell good denim ,they may also need the service

[Mr Black]

I'm sure all the London shops could pass business to you- Cinch, American classics...errr, they're the only ones I can think of. Any others?