Kicking Mule Workshop

[theetruscan]

^no, go look on the website. theyre $275, same as normal 1980s

they look DAMN good, ive been wanting a pair of nice black/black jeans for a long time now, sort of pissed i just spent so much on other things recently, otherwise id be all over these.

The visible selvedge coin pocket saved me from horrible pain.

[dino might]

^yeah, thats the one qualm of mine too, i think i could deal though.

whip a sharpie out..

[Noddy]

looks good......

[tripping with style]

How does the 1980 fit compare with the xx005? Also sizing? Considering those context ones....

[frank]

goddamn, i wanted a jean with both a black weft and warp, but for 275, i could get another pair of samurais. if this jean was around 200 with no visible coin pocket selvedge, i'd buy them..

[IM SOLE CRAZY]

I'm confused...they get shinier with more wear? I'm about to purchase a pair but I'm confused as to how they will fade exactly....

[cloudhands69]

I did a warm soak with a little detergent the other day on my rockers. They were dirty but I was hesitant to wash them because of the extremely slow fading progress, but I'm glad I did. No indigo loss, but they snugged back up all over and fit much better again. I think I will do a warm soak every couple months (I don't put too much hard wear into them) so they retain their shape.

[bonjin]

so KMW's stretch a ton? I'm getting a pair of 1950's cause I'm looking for a somewhat relaxed fit and ordered sortof true to size (half a size down), will they end up baggy?

[sm2s]

so KMW's stretch a ton? I'm getting a pair of 1950's cause I'm looking for a somewhat relaxed fit and ordered sortof true to size (half a size down), will they end up baggy?

i think they average an inch of stretch. i have a pair of 28 rockers that fit well initially, but sit lower than i like, wish i had gotten a 27 =/. if youre talking about the AWAs however i dont think they stretch much at all. theyre supposed to be tightly woven.

[ryandenim]

cross post from the Context thread.

Sorry for the delay on posting these pics. Here is visual evidence of the white core of the twill on the Black KMW CONTEXT 1980.

Look very closely. The large piece of denim is the fabric used in the KMW Context 1980. You can see the white tips of the threads coming off the sample piece. The smaller piece of fabric is not ours.

This fabric is stiff! After two weeks of wear, the honeycombs have set nicely.

Some evidence of wear begins to show, a bit of 'fading' evident on the edge of the belt loop.

[ryandenim]

My KMW 1980 Dry Indigo Selvage Japanese production have stretched exactly one inch after 5 months of daily wear and no wash. My Context KMW have stretched just under half an inch after two weeks of steady wear.

[bonjin]

they measure true to size? So, a 36 start out at 36" initially?

[ryandenim]

I'm confused...they get shinier with more wear? I'm about to purchase a pair but I'm confused as to how they will fade exactly....

Most dry denim (indigo dyed or otherwise) will get shiny after months of wear. These have a subtle sheen from the dyeing process which is enhanced with added dirt and wear. Mine do have some areas of slight contrast developing already.

[ryandenim]

they measure true to size? So, a 36 start out at 36" initially?

yes. that is correct.

[TheOneTrueMatt]

I have a couple questions on sizing as well as the raw vs rinse 1980s.

I've been trying on whatever I can get my hands on and here's what I've experienced.

My waist is 30 but my hips are 32 so I want to wear them a little low.

In the rinse the 30s fit perfectly, but maybe too much so. They were very snug in the waist so there was room to stretch but not so much that I couldn't button the top button.

The 29s (rinse) I couldn't button the top but there was a good inch to go for it, so I'd be a bit worried that they'd end up still tight after stretching, and I want these to be a reasonably comfortable everyday jean.

The raw 30s were similar in the waist to the rinsed ones, maybe a little easier to button, but the legs seemed baggier. Probably because the rinse shrinks them? Overall these felt like they'd be too big w/stretching (and I didn't like the legs).

I wasn't able to find 29s in raw yet.

Any suggestions for what size I should get? And how do the rinse vs raws differ in stretching, wear, and fading?

[soda]

In the rinse the 30s fit perfectly, but maybe too much so. They were very snug in the waist so there was room to stretch but not so much that I couldn't button the top button.

Sounds like the 30s fit you. They fit snug, and you can button the fly. I would recomend true-to-size for KMWs. Mine have stretched out a half an inch over six months, but I always wear a belt.

If you want to walk around with your fly half undone for a few days, I'm sure you could buy the 29s and wait for them to stretch.

I'm suprised that the legs of the 1980s "seemed baggy" to you, since they are a very slim cut. Perhaps these aren't the jeans for you. Aren't the Rockers slightly slimmer? Maybe give those a try in a 30 waist.

[TheOneTrueMatt]

They only seemed baggy in comparison to the rinse in the same size, which is probably because the rinse shrunk them a little, and it was only the leg from the knee down, and may have simply been the way they fell due to them being so rigid. I'm going to see if I can try a 29 raw to get the missing piece of data, but right now the 30 rinse fit best, but I'm not sure what I'd be losing getting the rinse vs the raws.

Sounds like the 30s fit you. They fit snug, and you can button the fly. I would recomend true-to-size for KMWs. Mine have stretched out a half an inch over six months, but I always wear a belt.

I'm suprised that the legs of the 1980s "seemed baggy" to you, since they are a very slim cut. Perhaps these aren't the jeans for you. Aren't the Rockers slightly slimmer? Maybe give those a try in a 30 waist.

[soda]

I'm not sure what I'd be losing getting the rinse vs the raws.

You mention rinse vs the raws, but I'm pretty sure that KMWs aren't available as raw (unwashed) denim. All of the KMW jeans I've seen, and the ones I own, are one-wash. I know they have a few treated models, but I've never seen a pair of raw KMWs.

Since the KMWs are a one-wash, you shouldn't expect much shinkage. Which means that the legs will stay the same.

[PG2G]

I was under the impression that they were all sanforized raw, not rinsed/one-wash..

[gimmegimme]

I was under the impression that they were all sanforized raw, not rinsed/one-wash..

ditto...i've never seen a pair that was o/w.

[sam113]

KMW makes raw, one wash/rinse and fully washed versions of all of their models.

All are Sanforized.

At CONTEXT we only stock the raws.

[TheOneTrueMatt]

Yeah, I only thought they made raw because that's what Context had, but then I went to Odin and they only had rinsed. Then I went to the OTHER Odin where they had both. The difference in size makes it pretty obvious they're the same thing, one totally raw, one rinsed.

The rinsed ones are obviously less rigid and a bit wrinkly and seem slightly shrunk. And again it may just be an illusion based on the lack of rigidity. I'm probably going back tomorrow to take another look.

[soda]

KMW makes raw, one wash/rinse and fully washed versions of all of their models. All are Sanforized.

Thanks for the clarification Sam113. I wasn't trying to talk out of my ass, but I had never seen a raw pair of KMWs before. I know the ones I have are one-wash, because they were all wrinkly when I bought them.

TheOneTrueMatt: If the 1980s in the rinsed denim fit you the best, I'd go for those. I personally prefer one-wash jeans because it gets some shinkage out of the way and it gets rid of most of the sizing/starch.

[bonjin]

But if they're already sanforized, there's no shrinking to worry about. But otherwise I see your point. I'm not saying he shouldn't get the one wash though, might as well if they fit him good.

[TheOneTrueMatt]

Well, I tried on the 30x34 raws again today. i was overreacting with the "baggy" talk, they just are slightly looser than the rinse and bunch differently in the calf area which made them look loose. But in actuality, they fit great. Almost too great. The waist could stretch maybe 1/2" to make them more comfortable worn lower, but I wouldn't want them to stretch much more than that.

So I'm leaning towards getting those, because I'd prefer true raws (they'll be a rinse eventually anyway when they get washed), and I don't want to have to aggressively stretch them like I would 29s, which I'd be worried about not stretching enough and being tight/uncomfortable in the waist. That's happened with a couple other jeans I've owned. Not to a terrible degree, I just want these to be comfortable when all is said and done (I can suffer for fashion in my tighter jeans).

[soda]

^^ If it helps, the waist of my KMWs hasn't stretched that much. About .5" - 1" after 4 month of wear (always with a belt).

[spacemanvt]

so is the consensus buy true to size?

i tried on some size 31 1980s (my true size) and they fit well, waist defintely wasnt snug. if they stretched out less than an inch I would be happy, anymore and they would be hanging off my ass.. btw I am 29 in NS.

anyone have any more exp with them?

[ryandenim]

TheOneTrueMatt, I can't imagine you and I wearing the same size, then again if you plan on wearing them low on your hips, maybe so.

As far as how the two fabrics differ in stretch, fade, and wear there is little difference. KMW's rinsed fabric is not extremely creased and wrinkled like say Jean Shop's rinses. You will experience fading along the wrinkle/creased edges giving a different look than the raw KMW.

You should get the same amount of stretch out of the rinsed and the raw. Just think about how dry denim shrinks back to the original size after the first wash and then stretch back out after a few more months of wear. Similar concept with rinsed vs raw fabrics.

[TheOneTrueMatt]

You make a good point, Ryan. And with this cut it may not be a good idea to wear them that low.

[spacemanvt]

is the rocker sort of a thin finn cut? with very tapered legs or more of a NS cut, with a straight leg but tapered opening?

and I suppose the 1980 is a slim jim sorta cut?