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Kicking Mule Workshop


Le Dirte

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Got the KMW 1980 off context for the same price as a pair of APC NS, just minutes ago. Grabbed the last pair they had which was W33. Normally wear a 33-34 depending on the cut. The thing that worries me is the size of the thigh. I have never bought a pair of jeans online that I didn't know the thigh size before purchase. But I had to grab these before they were all gone. Now I'm just biting my nails waiting for them to come in. Hopefully they fit like the Sam 710 and PBJ XX-007 in the thigh (bought both in size 33).

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On the sanforization question--I hot soaked and dried my raw 1980's and they definitly shrank in the inseam, probably 1 1/2 inches. They also snugged up everywhere else. I don't really know what they were supposed to do, but they did shrink what seems to be a significant amount.

As an aside, if anyone wants to trade their size 33 1980's for a pair of size 34 please send me a PM.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My KMW 1980 has finally arrived. Very interesting denim. Very uniform and smooth, no slub at all, and the natural indigo is almost grey in colour. Love the little details like the two tone selvage, donut buttons, nipple-less rivets and exposed selvage pocket.

Of course there are some concerns. While the waist fits me fine, the thighs are really tight. Almost as tight as my Imperial Dukes were when I first got them. And this is raw. Now I hate wearing raw jeans, so I'm tossing up whether to soak them, cause even though they are sanforized, truestorytravis has mentioned that they still shrink. And if they shrink, the legs might be too tight. Dye-lehmma... what to do...

And I'm not liking the pockets being that low. All in all, a very nice pair of jeans, different from my Sugarcane and Samurai. But in all honesty, something that I probably wouldn't have picked up had it been full retail. I'll have some raw and post-soak fit pics up soon.

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My KMW 1980 has finally arrived. Very interesting denim. Very uniform and smooth, no slub at all, and the natural indigo is almost grey in colour. Love the little details like the two tone selvage, donut buttons, nipple-less rivets and exposed selvage pocket.

Of course there are some concerns. While the waist fits me fine, the thighs are really tight. Almost as tight as my Imperial Dukes were when I first got them. And this is raw. Now I hate wearing raw jeans, so I'm tossing up whether to soak them, cause even though they are sanforized, truestorytravis has mentioned that they still shrink. And if they shrink, the legs might be too tight. Dye-lehmma... what to do...

And I'm not liking the pockets being that low. All in all, a very nice pair of jeans, different from my Sugarcane and Samurai. But in all honesty, something that I probably wouldn't have picked up had it been full retail. I'll have some raw and post-soak fit pics up soon.

They honestly wont shrink a noticable difference; when I owned a pair they only shrank in a soak if I had already stretched them out. They DO stretch decently, and quite fast too.

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Cheers for the comments. The problem with sizing down on slim jeans is that it makes it difficult to wear lower.

Three hour hot soak with the water changed every hour. The water went a dark brown and there was a smell similar to rust that came off the jeans. By the third water change, the water was only slightly brown and the smell on the jean was much improved. No indigo loss that I could see. The denim felt a lot fresher after the soak (I don't need any of that metallic smelling brown stuff to come off the jeans onto my legs). It did shrink a little in the inseam (about 1 inch) so no cuffs. The waist sort of stayed the same, though I stretched it a bit while it was still wet.

kmw06.jpg

kmw07.jpg

kmw08.jpg

Now it's off deck while I work on my SC40200 till the Dubbleworks comp.

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On the sanforization question--I hot soaked and dried my raw 1980's and they definitly shrank in the inseam, probably 1 1/2 inches. They also snugged up everywhere else. I don't really know what they were supposed to do, but they did shrink what seems to be a significant amount.

As an aside, if anyone wants to trade their size 33 1980's for a pair of size 34 please send me a PM.

That's weird. My KMW AWA is sanforized too and they didn't shrink at all. You sure the 1980s are sanforized?

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Cheers for the comments. The problem with sizing down on slim jeans is that it makes it difficult to wear lower.

Three hour hot soak with the water changed every hour. The water went a dark brown and there was a smell similar to rust that came off the jeans. By the third water change, the water was only slightly brown and the smell on the jean was much improved. No indigo loss that I could see. The denim felt a lot fresher after the soak (I don't need any of that metallic smelling brown stuff to come off the jeans onto my legs). It did shrink a little in the inseam (about 1 inch) so no cuffs. The waist sort of stayed the same, though I stretched it a bit while it was still wet.

Now it's off deck while I work on my SC40200 till the Dubbleworks comp.

Can you describe your hot soak process? What temperature? Anything else to know?

Thanks.

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how big is the leg opening?

(assuming you're asking about the 80s...

Tagged Size Measured Size Waist Rise Knee Leg Opening

29 29 9.5 8 7.95 30 30 9.75 8 7.95 31 31 10 8.25 8.25 32 32 10.25 8.5 8.5 33 33 10.25 8.75 8.75 34 34 10.5 8.75 8.75

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Can you describe your hot soak process? What temperature? Anything else to know?

Thanks.

Jeans inside out folded into thirds and soaked in a laundry sink with the hottest water out of a tap (about 60 degrees celcius). Jeans agitated, light hand wash, no soap between water changes. Water changed every hour as it cooled. Three water changes and then spun dry in a washing machine. No tumble dry (only because I don't have one). Put the jeans right side out and hang dry. If it's a bit cold and it's taking its time to dry, I usually throw them on a hot radiator to basically cook the water out. I don't baby my jeans. If they can't take this kind of punishment, I would have had no reason to pay as much as I did for them.

They didn't shrink. The length did go up a little, about half an inch, but the jean itself softened up and loosened. You can see the difference in the fit. The jeans look looser and more relaxed after soak. These jeans are definitely sanforised imo.

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Doing some preliminary sizing research on KMW 1950 AWA's here. AWA owners, do inseams on your jeans measure as marked, come up short, or are they longer? Also, talk to me about stretching. . .

They measure as stated. They don't stretch much cuz they're hella tightly woven. They're sanforized and don't shrink at all.

+rep me if you found the information above useful.

Here are fit pics:

DSCF4635.jpg

CIMG3310.jpg

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