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canice

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- i spend a lot of time riding my bike, if that's what you mean by 'on'. my bike would be fine if i never touched it, but it's kind of like owning a sports car. you fawn.

thanks a lot for the advice,

what i meant was that ppl who ride fixed gear seems to spend a lot of time working on their bike (either tuning it or changing pieces and stuff) so i was wondering what was the reason for that.

- you will learn to avoid potholes not because it will ruin your wheels, but because it will make your crotch hurt.

yeah, i'll definetely have to learn to ride a bike that doesn't have a suspension...

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I'm looking for a Dutch city-bike like this one:

http://bp3.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/RfVbCiYWY8I/AAAAAAAAAek/2x64oOnag38/s1600-h/ADBike.jpg

God, I love that bike. Someone on the other SF pointed out that it is a Bianchi Lusso, which I've had absolutely no luck finding as of yet.

Another person pointed out a decent take at jorgandolif.com, though the hardware looks a little toyish to me.

Seems like there are some pretty hardcore bike experts here so....any suggestions?

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if you are rich, order a custom. i recommend toronto's own mariposa bikes, they specialize in 'classic' builds.

if you're not, buy a jorg and olif or azor. the former's double top tube looks weird to me, but it's obviously there for some utilitarian purpose.

oh and http://www.dutchbikes.us/traditional.html

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if you are rich, order a custom. i recommend toronto's own mariposa bikes, they specialize in 'classic' builds.

if you're not, buy a jorg and olif or azor. the former's double top tube looks weird to me, but it's obviously there for some utilitarian purpose.

oh and http://www.dutchbikes.us/traditional.html

Whoa! I really love those "Dutch Bicycle Company" bikes. Thank you so much (could never afford a Mariposa).

*EDIT*: Hur, they're Azors. Didn't catch that. I really like the Opa and Stadfiets Retro. Thanks again.

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fuck, i put in about 40 miles today. definitely the most i've done since when the weather was still decent.

anyways, its a shit storm to navigate, but sheldon brown knows fucking everything: http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed/index.html ... he even tracked down french threaded sugino 75 cups for a friend of mine.

www.bikeforums.net is probably the best resource. like you always hear USE THE SEARCH and you will be able to find the answer to every question about building your first bike to stupid shit like "i just bought some chrome knickers."

whatever you do, do not wear cycling knickers/shants/capris whatever. do not do not do not

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To run 25/9 gearing he would need to change his rear wheel or at least the hub.

not really cost efficient to look up to date.

Who said anything about 25/9? You can run 36/13 on a freewheel and there's no need to change anything other than the sprocket and the freewheel. If you've ever tried crooking anything with a 46 tooth chainring you'll know what I mean.

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to ya'll bike enthusiasts-- i just found a tiny crack on my frame where my fork inserts. is this something i should be worried about? it's a bit shorter than a centimeter.... is it possibly fixable?

edit: I found out that you can't weld aluminum. well, guess i'm in the market for a new frame.

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Who said anything about 25/9? You can run 36/13 on a freewheel and there's no need to change anything other than the sprocket and the freewheel. If you've ever tried crooking anything with a 46 tooth chainring you'll know what I mean.

If I was trying to crooked-grind rails or do more tech street stuff then obviously I’d run a smaller chain ring…not to mention get some pegs. I mostly ride trails now though, and since my current set up works fine for that I don’t really see any great need to change it.

I know the gearing is big by today’s standards, but I stopped slavishly following the latest BMX trends when I sold my beaten-to-shit brakeless T1 Barcode (two pegs, sprocket guard, bars cut super narrow, flatland-like gear ratio etc etc) and got something that actually suited my style better, even if it didn’t turn as many heads at the skatepark.

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I'm not calling you out for running a big chainring, each to their own, it's good to come across another BMX'er here. I don't get the chance to ride trails much these days (a product of living in central London I guess) but spent a day eating shit at some in Germany last summer.

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drop the extra cash and get some formula hubs on CXP33s or Open Pros. they're usually on ebay for ~$150. weinmann's aren't that rugged and i've never heard of vuelta hubs. fwiw, a lot of messengers will run formulas since they're cheap and pretty solid.

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PAcFixed.jpg

Paconi (Cecil Walker) road frame...

Changing a few things on it, added a front tektro brake caliper (commuting in traffic), BMX two finger style lever, red top tube pad, MTB riser bars, with red grips, and flat pedals. WIll post new picture, once I give it a clean and change bars.

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Going to my local bike shop tomorrow and seeing if they have any Pistas, if they do I'll be posting pictures of it since I am buying one. Would it be a bad idea to give my bike a paintjob? I don't really like any of the Pista colorways except for the greenish one, I was thinking a rattle-can black would look much better than anything else.

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Going to my local bike shop tomorrow and seeing if they have any Pistas, if they do I'll be posting pictures of it since I am buying one. Would it be a bad idea to give my bike a paintjob? I don't really like any of the Pista colorways except for the greenish one, I was thinking a rattle-can black would look much better than anything else.

You can paint a bike frame pretty easily, but bare in mind you will never achieve as good as finish as a factory colour. Google search it, theres a few good articles.

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Ive painted my bikes numerous times. The best results were always had when I roughed up the clear coat layed down a coat of primer. Sanded and wipe down the surface with rubbing alcohol and the sprayed the colour. On the first and second coat make sure you sand between coats and finish by smoothing out the last coat with a super fine grit sandpaper.

Oh and is it me or do LBS often suck? Often times they leave me with this impression of being elitist pricks. Besides, what is so bad about ordering some parts online and doing it yourself? Besides, they hate it when I argue that my method works best and they know, but deny it.

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Got MTB risers today, managed to get them on the bike before work! Standard width is quite wide though, they're like 600mm I think, think about cutting 50-100mm off each side?

How wide does everyone grip?

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Oh and is it me or do LBS often suck? Often times they leave me with this impression of being elitist pricks. Besides, what is so bad about ordering some parts online and doing it yourself? Besides, they hate it when I argue that my method works best and they know, but deny it.

because it takes away their business. i always shop at my LBS anyway - being a loyal customer, the 10% discount they give me always works out to be less than shipping to canada anyway.

my shop is really nice though. they tell me funny stories about running over dogs and cutting them in half.

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Like someone mentioned, this seems to be more of a track bike thread, but here's a new bmx bike I just built up.

bikchk1.jpg

bikchk3.jpg

Frame: The Take Time Frame 21" custom powder coat finish

Forks: S & M X-tra Lites custom powder coat finish

Bars: Sunday custom powder coat finish

Grips: Animal Edwin

Headset: FSA Integreted

Stem: Animal

Front Wheel: Profile Mini Front Purple hub, Sun Big City Lite Black, Wheelsmith Spokes

Cranks: Profile Race 180 LHD arms, Profile Ti Spindle, Profile Mid Bearings

Sprocket: Profile Imperial Purple 25 tooth

Pedals: Profile Gas Pedals, Ti pedal spindles

Chain: KMC

Rear Wheel: Profile Mini SS LHD Black, 9 tooth Ti Driver, Prototype 14mm holloe Ti axle, Sun Big City Rim, Wheelsmith spokes

Tires: Animal GLH/ASM

Seatpost: Thompson

Seat Clamp: Profile Slim Jim

Pegs: Profile Ti

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