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canice

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I was mainly talking about road cranks, but i feel like it would translate over to all kinds?

I dunno, i just dont get what makes these parts better other than like brand name labelling.

like, what am i getting when i pay the $X for a phil wood bottom bracket or hub?

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companies like phil or chris king are giving you superior craftsmanship, a lifetime of hassle-free performance, lifetime guarantee... over say a formula that isn't manufactured with as much attention to detail, uses bearings/hardware, etc. of a lower quality.

i feel like with cranksets you can get into a whole different realm incorporating r&d, expensive manufacturing (margin of error with carbon manufacturing, etc), blah blah blah.

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Yup. If you don't want it and you don't need it, you don't want it and don't need it.

Phil Wood components are good for 50-150K, depending on weight and usage, before bearing replacement is needed. I certainly can say I would not be keeping a single bike long enough to warrant that durability.

I think a big thing with buying bike parts is being realistic with yourself. If you want something really bad, get it then, but if you ride 40 miles a week, you don't NEED a CK headset or Black Chili Gatorskins.

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haha okay, and what about cranksets? the only thing i can think of on that other than weight is forged vs machined, but is that like something i should really care about?

i dunno, basically i dont like my current cranks (pake) and i'm thinking of switching to the sugino messengers, or the sugino rd48s, but i cant figure out why they're priced differently.

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There's all different alloys, hot forged, cold forged, machined (which is expensive, and sucks.)

Whatever.

Messenger cranks have costly and presumably good chainrings, and were produced as an aftermarket part whereas R-series parts are spec'd on a bunch of mfr bikes, blah blah.

Few dollars, ultimately, whatever. Pake cranks are cheap, soft alloy and I'm sure would also be fine so long everything is installed once by a proper mechanic, and not wrenched a lot by a hack.

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yeah my bad, they're the sugino RD's haha, the 48 was just the chainring included in the crankset.

these are the ones i'm looking at right now.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=9858

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22457

so, i guess do you guys know what the differences between hot/cold forged, and machined result in? at least in ride quality?

and what's so good about the messenger chainrings? (i guess also miche chainrings) aside from them looking cool?

sorry for all the super-small bike questions

I just really want to figure this all out haha.

Edit: damnit another question, what differentiates between say a single speed chain and a 10 spd chain? is it just the length they sell you?

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Edit: damnit another question, what differentiates between say a single speed chain and a 10 spd chain? is it just the length they sell you?

multi-speed chains are designed to derail more easily (for shifting obviously), and I think they allow for the chainline to be more crooked.

sounds like it might cause the chain to fall off more often, but with a good chainline and proper tension, it doesn't matter. I've been using multispeed chains on my fixies for years and have not once had a problem

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well, i just reused the drive train from an old 10spd motobecane i built up. so all i really had to do was get a 3/32" fixie cog and then it ran fine.

i know 1/8" is standard, but i was over-budget for this bike anyway so i had to cut corners. brakes being one of the corners :\

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I have a trick bike

Running 42 x 17 (165mm sugino rd with 700c rims with 32 tires).

It just doesn't feel right.

I'm as strong as a 12 year old boy who hasn't even hit puberty.

What's a good tricking ratio for a weak ass motherfucker like me?

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I have a trick bike

Running 42 x 17 (165mm sugino rd with 700c rims with 32 tires).

It just doesn't feel right.

I'm as strong as a 12 year old boy who hasn't even hit puberty.

What's a good tricking ratio for a weak ass motherfucker like me?

I know almost nothing about fixed tricks but I thought I saw videos of dudes using 1:1 ratios

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BlXI!

I kid. B&W Look 585, and an all black bike w/ red striped Hutchinson's and gold risers, low black rims many spokes.

I'm getting a TBD road bike for a winter trainer though too, can't be getting salt all over the Look...

Damn, didn't know any of you guys were in montreal.

I think the only bike I've seen that could possibly have belonged to a sufu dude was a silver fixie with "bike or die" decals locked with a red supreme chain in front of benelux, corner sherbrooke/jeanne-mance. Or it could have been someone from hypebeast.. you just don't see a lot of Supreme stuff up in here.

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I have a trick bike

Running 42 x 17 (165mm sugino rd with 700c rims with 32 tires).

It just doesn't feel right.

I'm as strong as a 12 year old boy who hasn't even hit puberty.

What's a good tricking ratio for a weak ass motherfucker like me?

32 x 15, bmx-like

companies like phil or chris king are giving you superior craftsmanship, a lifetime of hassle-free performance, lifetime guarantee... over say a formula that isn't manufactured with as much attention to detail, uses bearings/hardware, etc. of a lower quality.

If it was possible to extract only the bearings from phil hubs the world would be a better place.

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I have a trick bike

Running 42 x 17 (165mm sugino rd with 700c rims with 32 tires).

It just doesn't feel right.

I'm as strong as a 12 year old boy who hasn't even hit puberty.

What's a good tricking ratio for a weak ass motherfucker like me?

Just build those leg muscles up ;)

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I have a trick bike

Running 42 x 17 (165mm sugino rd with 700c rims with 32 tires).

It just doesn't feel right.

I'm as strong as a 12 year old boy who hasn't even hit puberty.

What's a good tricking ratio for a weak ass motherfucker like me?

try a replacing the 17t with a 20t or 22t cog?

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My ride as of tonight

Just threw on some MKS all city pro's, mks cages, and soma pursuits, origin8 cranks and origin8 chainwheel. Pretty happy with it how it rides now as opposed to its original budget bike state.

Next pay check is new wheels, then saddle and I think i'll be done until the bottom bracket starts to annoy me.

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^any specifics?

Try Shimano Ultegra or 105. They are durable and don't need any service. Used my still smooth running Ultegra bottom bracket for about five years in competitions and training without any service. Just had to replace it because I cracked the shell by putting it into a different frame (because I destroyed the last one...)

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(it's funny, I used FSA Gossamer, too)

Are those the old ones with older bottom brackets or do you have to use the new hollowtech stuff?

For the old ones you just have to know your bottom bracket diameter - should be written on the bottom bracket, either 68mm or 70mm (BSA standard and ITA) The length should be standard 109.5mm.

For the hollow axle I have no idea what could be the best. I just had bad experience, sorry.

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