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canice

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cog,lockring,chainring,chain,cranks are all tight....something is still slipping, what the fuck! any ideas of what it could be?

make sure you have a quality lockring and you've lubed it up and tightened it properly. A shit lockring will loosen up on you no matter how tight you have it on, if the metal's soft and crappy (which usually they are). Happened to me when i was inbetween wheelsets, put on a backup with a crap lockring and it kept slipping till i got a dura ace on there, no problems since.

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make sure you have a quality lockring and you've lubed it up and tightened it properly. A shit lockring will loosen up on you no matter how tight you have it on, if the metal's soft and crappy (which usually they are). Happened to me when i was inbetween wheelsets, put on a backup with a crap lockring and it kept slipping till i got a dura ace on there, no problems since.

yea i think its the cog possibly needs some locktight, quality wise ive its a dura ace hub,cog(njs omg) and lockring so im hoping that quality is not the issue

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yea locktight is not the thing to put on your $200 hub setup. if all of those components are high quality like you said, then grease and a good tighten with the correct tools should do the trick. I've got that same setup on one of my bikes and it's never loosened, so i guess i'm lucky, but i installed everything with some grease and used a chain whip/lockring tool.

just take care of it before you ride it much, i don't want to be reading posts about stripped dura ace hubs haha

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raise your saddle and lower your bars. and the fins look like they are angled in which is kinda funky.

I had this bike professionally fit. After two hours of fitting, everything is exactly in the right place.

Just out of curiosity, how can you look at a bike and tell someone to raise the saddle and lower the handlebars without knowing anything about the dimensions of said person?

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its a tri bike. you want to be as forward as possible and u want your arms out to open your lungs. the saddle should be much higher then the stem. but if it was fit to you then dont change it. im just saying at first glance it seemed low.

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No, that is incorrect. You are not supposed to be as forward as possible, because then you lose power transfer from your hammies, which is the only reason you should be riding a tri bike in the first place...driving from your hammies. You want to be as AERO as possible and after being fit by someone who has worked in wind tunnels to understand aerodynamics, this is in fact a perfect set up for me.

Additionally, the seat has nothing to do with your forward position and it's probably the most common misconception about tri bikes. It is the bb that is relatively farther back, thus giving the illusion of having a more forward seat. The make seatposts that give you 3-4 degrees more angle and unless you're fitting them on a road bike, you're going to be way to angled.

Honestly, you cannot judge how a person should adjust their bike from pictures, especially when you know absolutely nothing about the person.

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don't loctite your stuff. instead, install it properly. buy a dura-ace locring if its compatible with your hubs. they're $8 and better than your doodoopoopoo locring that came on your formulas or that you got at the shop for $2 or the old school bb locring that someone used on the wheels they ripped you off for. quality cogs are also recommended, but maybe not as necessary as a solid locring. i have always used EAI steel cogs with no problems and rediculous longevity.

1. grease the cog threads, thread on, tighten as much as possible with whip.

2. thread on locring with no grease, tighten the shit out of it

3. ride around ... if something slips, stop and go onto #4. if it doesn't, go to #4 after a day or so, especially when putting on new componenets (chain, locring, cog)

4. tighten cog with whip

5. tighten loc ring

6. repeat 4 and 5 as necessary as general maintenance on your whip

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i dont know your body but im guessing that you have a short torso. it just seems like an uncomfortable set up. as a triathlete i was just giving my oppinion.

if u had it fit then dont worry about my opinion.

I actually have a very long femur, which cranks my angle to an aero position. You could rest a full glass of water on my back when I ride this thing.

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Here are a bunch of french track frames for sale:

They were all about 150-250 Euro.

359wp52.jpg

w228gh.jpg

14toopk.jpg

2w652rs.jpg

Completes:

2zsz0cl.jpg

I was thinking about getting this Mercier in 53, english bb.

2mze3kn.jpg

How much would it be worth in the US? Is it a good deal? He said he would hook up a complete bike for 400 euro.

here are some direct shots of frames:

http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=merciermaronclaire53ma3.jpg

http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=giraudonblue52os2.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vilpelletbleu51cq3.jpg

http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=peugeotnoire54uo5.jpg

http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cinelliplongentrougeblabr5.jpg

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i say go for the last one or the blue one 2 from the left with the white flakes.

do you njs frame owners like the hatta bb? i am starting to hate loose ball. ya sure it feels nice but its so much work.

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No, I just found the paris fixed forums. I am planning on coming this weekend and shoot some photos, I am still bikeless and broke at the moment.

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