MISTER FREEDOM

[Bill2]

con't

Waistband and fly selvage. Extra little twill pocket inside. This material also lines the inside of the tool pocket and the back of the edo ai buckleback strap

Both legs are chainstitch hemmed and then hemmed again inside the leg using a hand stitch. Right leg is normal double selvage outseam

Left leg: One sided selvage is on the INSEAM. The left leg actually has no outseam. It is one peice of denim that is wrapped around to create a tube shape. Selvage goes all the way up to the crotch. You can see to the left of the photo the smooth outer wall of the left leg (seen below)

[taromakino]

If someone can provide some more close-up scans of those pages, I would be glad to translate it. I unfortunately can't make up the small print, especially since it is written in a white font on a colored background.

From glancing at p. 125, it seems to be a collaboration between sugar cane and the "origin of japanese denim, union star jeans."

[greedywaif]

Did you get the one-wash or the hardwashed ones you started this thread with?

I haven't seen them but I'm guessing the one-wash is nothing different from regular one- wash. They've just already shrunk them up so the customer doesn't have to take shrinkage into account. Some people prefer that.

If you got the hard washed ones then I'm sorry to tell you but they will never look anything near the ones pictured above.

The hard washed version looks like there is hardly any indgo left to work with to make them your own. At best the wear on them will look a little less artificial over time and blend in with whatever wear you manage to get on them. It's going to be hard work though.

Christophe his trousers look the way they look because the have been lived and worked in for over a year. It's near impossible to fake that kind of wear.

Anyway, wichever pair you got post up some pics of yours.

Good to see them on someone and not in a studio/photochopped pic.

Yes I bought the ones in the picture which I presume are "hard-washed". Do you think they won't wear well? BTW, who changed the title of this thread

[the black arm]

I stopped by Mr. Freedom last time I was in LA and was just blown away. The denim collection is insane, anybody that appreciates honest denim should be down there. Plus he's got a stellar denim-book and old apparel catalog library. I spent over an hour drooling over the goods . . . Mister Freedom is what a vintage clothing/denim store should be like, pure class, zero pretense, no gimmicks, real respect for the history and product. All the denim merchants that post on sufu should be taking notes . . . please keep up the good work. Also a pleasant surprise to see that banksy has hit up Mister Freedom's building.

[thomas_highstreet]

awesome store.

looks like you got a nice selection of machines up there on the mezanine level too!

[the black arm]

if you bought the ones in the first picture you posted, its highly unlikely they'll be wearing any more than they already are . . the guys at the wash house stole your thunder.

[indigo_junkie]

Most totally unique jeans I've ever seen. Insane details, esp, the left leg only having one seam. If I had a spare $400, I'd fork, just to own something that's completely different to anything out there (didn't like it at first, but it's growing on me).

[Charlie Delta]

Yes I bought the ones in the picture which I presume are "hard-washed". Do you think they won't wear well? BTW, who changed the title of this thread

Post some pics!

I asked Tweeds if he could change the thread title so it would be specificly about these jeans.

[greedywaif]

I've arranged for my brother to come round with his digital camera to snap some shots to put online. I can't believe you changed my title man :eek:

[Tarmac]

WTF, they went from Ugliest Jeans Thread to Hot Ass Shit in less than one page. I'm not kidding either

[Opie]

It all happened when dear mr. freedom came about

[>++fishb0neR]

WTF, they went from Ugliest Jeans Thread to Hot Ass Shit in less than one page. I'm not kidding either

hahaha.. true

they look comfy as hell..

nice to chill in

lounge around in the studio:cool:

[lowrider]

WTF, they went from Ugliest Jeans Thread to Hot Ass Shit in less than one page. I'm not kidding either

Waahahahahahaha... wait... how the hell did that happen?

Maybe Frankenstyle jeans are the new hot thing for A/W '07?

[HEWSINATOR]

The worn pics?

I did not care for Bill's at all (at first), but MisterFreesom's made me drool.

[MisterFreedom]

Sorry about posting again, but someone asked for larger scans, to be able to read.

I will try to get some translation done tomorrow, by my employee Ima.

Also, here is the first draft letter of intro of those trousers i sent to SC (the final draft is lost because PC crash/no back up). Sounds a little pompous, I know, but not an easy task to write about something you made. Anyways, here it is (formating's all messed up):

TROUSERS, UTILITY

MISTER FREEDOM®

M.F.S.C. LOT N° 7161

Sugar Cane Co: “Why don’t you design a pair of dungarees for us?

Mister Freedom: “Let’s go, baby!”

That’s how things started in June 2005.

After more than a year of development, the “Utility Trousers N°7161” were born.

Christophe Loiron, owner of “Mister Freedom” vintage Design Studio, in Los Angeles, has collaborated with Sugar Cane Co denim experts to bring you this pair of work denim dungarees.

For the design, MISTER FREEDOM® did not want to make just another pair of jeans for the fashion market

MF: “I have put together elements of work practicality, military Army-Navy functionality, early American-European 1930’s esthetics, an eco-friendly approach, and a personal touch

For the fabric, a revolutionary, environmentally friendly blend of sugar cane and cotton fiber denim was chosen, the result of 20 years of research by Sugar Cane Co. Traditional indigo hand-dyed techniques were used.

MF: “I loved working with this denim fabric, very inspiring… I wanted to design a pair of dungarees that I would be proud to wear and that I had not seen anywhere

Unique and many never-seen original details of the No 7161 include:

* For each pair, 3 different indigo denim fabrics were used. SC Awa, SC Okinawa and SC Edo. They will fade, shrink and wear differently.

* 1930’s workman’s silhouette.

• Unique left and right leg design.
  
• Original marking and hand stenciling, with no visible outside branding.
  
• Knee patch for sturdiness.
  
• Two original wrap around pockets and one side pocket for functionality.
  
• Cinch back strap with ticking lining.
  
• Handcrafted single needle machine construction.
  
• Hand stitched bottom hems.
  
• Hand made by artisans, each pair is UNIQUE and no two pairs are the same.
  
• 7161 is a limited collectible edition, only available un-washed.
  
• Made in California exclusively for Sugar Cane Co.

After seeing the abuse of the “factory distressing” on denim victimized by fashion, MISTER FREEDOM opted for selling the No 7161 un-washed, leaving the beauty of a natural fading process up to the its proud patient owner.

Before the 1rst use, I recommend rinsing briefly those utility trousers with water and white vinegar, one spin cycle in the washing machine, and wearing them damped until they dry on you. From that moment on, washing your trousers should be done sparingly. (Sugar cane fiber is healthy for the skin and kills bacteria).

MISTER FREEDOM®

This is a shot of the "rig", the design board in the studio i was using while working on that project...There are fabric swatches, the original stencil oil board, trims, original vintage ticking fabric, chambray for the name patch etc...

That's all folks!

Cheers,

Christophe MF®

[Ahlvahroe]

is that second picture of you wearing them? when i first saw em on the hinoya website i thought 'eww' but these are so great, cant say that i want to drop that much cash right now but wow. http://item.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/sc47161_a/

[MisterFreedom]

Yep, that's me after a few months of wearing them. Back then, they couldn't really stand up by themselves, but had a little wear going on. Never really thought too much about the fade, just was using them for what they are: work pants.

Cheers

[Charlie Delta]

Excuse the waywt vanity, just a quick teaser pic, will post up better ones when I've got a bit more time.

I am VERY happy with how these fit!!!

Christophe, thanks again! And post up that translation when you have time.

[beatle]

Aloha, cotton..at first I was taken aback by the tropical mix..but in the end looking at the pic made me happy...like summerdays..

More importantly - the fit is great...

[Charlie Delta]

Haha, could've probably posted a bit less flashy outfit, as to not take to much away from the fit.

But like I said, proper pre- and post soak pics will follow later.

[ringring]

Mr Freedom, is any chance that you will make those trousers in a regular denim? As much as I admire Sugarcane's fabric, I must say your original pair (without the leather pocket) made from deadstock selvedge were nicer.

[edmond]

i almost got one of these over at take5 hongkong... these are really amazing jeans..

[tweeds]

saw these on earthmarket: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc73279/

[Charlie Delta]

Don't know how I did it, but in little over a month I managed to get these extremely grubby.

'Covered in a fine layer of dirt plus some random stains' grubby!

I like it!

[beatle]

You know we like pics...I'm aweful...I know...

[Charlie Delta]

I haven't even posted proper fit pics and such, have to sort them out first.

Soon...

[Bill2]

saw these on earthmarket: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/sc73279/

What they're selling there are the t-shirts, also of Mister Freedom design. Those pants aren't MF

[scoon0224]

What kind of leather is that?

Cuz I want to add a pocket to a pair of jeans (ones I'll work in) and that'd be perfect.

edit: yeah Totally unclear on that... I forgot there were like 2 pages between the picture I was referring to and my question...

Yeah the leather pocket on Mr Freedom's original jeans. So I'll ask him. thx Cotton.

[Charlie Delta]

^ pretty random question, but lets assume you're talking about the leather pocket on Mister Freedom his own jeans. He's stated a couple of times that he took it from somewhere else if I'm not mistaken. So for the real answer you'll have to wait for Mr Freedom.

Hope that helps.

On a different note, fell with my bike last night, as a result I now have a white "superfade" spot a little under my left knee.

It's all good though, just thought I'd update...

[Charlie Delta]

I finally got round to organising the many pics I took of these, I'll try to post some that add to the pics already posted. All these pics were taken when I just recieved them, they were brandnew.

I've now got 41 days of wear in them, and as stated above they're quite dirty and the first signs of wear are showing, will take pics of them in a little while.

Now, on to the pictures:

the paper hand numbered hang tag and the size tag

the back with cinch, here you see the 3 types of denim clearly, it also shows the reinforcement stitching under the rivets.

Note that these have no yoke.

a close up of the rivet, you can't make it out but the rivets say BUZZ on them really tiny, guess they must've been from the Buzz Rickson range, I've never seen rivets like these, they're very thick and sturdy. edit: According to Bill, Mister Freedom didn't like the rivets the way they came from production so he hand hammered them all flat on the pairs that he kept for his store.

You can also clearly make out the different direction the denim on the wraparound pockets is going

the "Canes Union Made" top button, the other buttons are just plain donut buttons.

This also shows the horizontal stitching that runs along the waistband.

Bill said that all the stitching is olive, but there's also quite alot done in gray on this pair.

And the Mister Freedom woven cloth tag in the back of the waistband

the buttons, selvedge beltloop and waistband and hand stencilled writing in the inside of the waistband,

also the Edo Ai inside of the button fly

hand stencilled MF anchor, on the inside left thigh (the side without outseam)

edit: another edit with info from Bill, the Anchor was only stencilled into the jeans that Mister Freedom kept for his own store.

Chambray patch on the back of the left leg, with hand stencilled nrs and property of Samuel, and a peek at the halfselvedge inseam

closeup of the Edo Ai patch on the right leg, I had never seen it in the flesh before and this denim is amazing! I would say this denim is the colour of the sea. I'm not sure if I could have a complete pair of jeans in it though. Again note the different direction.

more beautifull denim, the right leg, I believe the Okinawa denim (correct me if I'm wrong)

a side pic of the inside that shows the half selvedge inseam on the left leg and the inner coinpocket, also the big cuffs, I had to take them out since I needed the lenght.