Levi's Made to Order (Lot No. 1)

[Foxy2]

Not sure if I like where this discussion is heading...at least we are not (yet) discussing if +200 $/£/€ is justifiable or not!

I have no idea, what Levi's calculation looked like to spit out a number like that, but I guess having globally 3 entire set-ups with Savile Row level tailors will cost significantly more than running your own (sweatshop) operations out of your garage trying to support yourself producing small batches.

Certainly, there is also a prestige aspect included in the price, but I wouldn't be surprised if Levi's is just barely breaking-even with this line by itself.

Personally, I think it's cool to have this thread and a pair to follow. Not the worst possible investment of personal/private funds...

[Geeman]

Just for comparisons there are two guys in BKK doing tailor made selvedge, obviously without the heritage of the big L but I've visited both and these guy's are serious about their products. Japanese and Cone denim choices.

http://www.viapiana.ca/

 

https://www.facebook.com/selvedgework

The cost is £130 upwards. 

$650 dollars is an unsurprising figure for totally bespoke/tailor made piece but in context a 3 piece suit from a reputable tailor can be bought for £750 - £1000 easily....

I wonder how much of the $650 is for the perceived value of the  Levi's tag.

If you can afford it and the end product is everything you wanted then hey, what the heck!!

[garden gnomes in space]

i admit my initial reaction was because I thought that they were trying to lure people in by offering a  denim/hardware choice but a cut that is off the rack.  That would not be worth it to me.  But the fact that they spend time adjusting the fit etc... makes the price tag understandable.  Im not ready to commit to this at this point as I am satisfied with what I can get shipped to me, but it makes that $650 price point understandable 

[setterman]

This service has been around a couple years now, and the video that was posted online when they first announced these jeans mentioned sanforized denim being used Maynard.

$650 isn't cheap, but you only have to fuck up the sizing on a couple pair of expensive jeans to make these worthwhile.

[cthip]

Just for comparisons there are two guys in BKK doing tailor made selvedge, obviously without the heritage of the big L but I've visited both and these guy's are serious about their products. Japanese and Cone denim choices.

http://www.viapiana.ca/

 

Yep, I had hesitated to bring this up since I didn't want to derail the thread.  There are affordable and high-quality options for custom denim.  There's a small viapiana thread here on sufu

 

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/143518-viapiana-custom-jeans/

 

Myself and a few others have had positive experiences.  Ben doesn't do much promotion here, but seems to have a thriving business in BKK.  His website is relatively barebones, but his social media clearly demonstrate the passion for the craft and attention to detail that we all appreciate here.

 

That doesn't take anything away from the Levi's program.  There's definite value in multiple live fittings, being able to handle the denim in-person, and having a face-to-face discussion with the tailor.  There's also perceived value in the classic red tag, correct arcuates, etc.  How much all of that is worth is a personal decision.

Edited April 20, 2015 by cthip

[lance]

This service has been around a couple years now, and the video that was posted online when they first announced these jeans mentioned sanforized denim being used Maynard.

$650 isn't cheap, but you only have to fuck up the sizing on a couple pair of expensive jeans to make these worthwhile.

 

 

I recently considered a road trip for a pair of Made to Order Levi's but first called the SF store. I asked the tailor specifically whether or not all of the denim offered is Sanforized. He said yes, it is all Sanforized denim no matter country of origin so it became a non starter for me. I understand somewhat the use of Sanforized denim in controlling shrinkage but don't understand why they cannot soak unsanforized denim prior to making the jeans thus limiting shrinkage and giving pretty much the same outcome.

[setterman]

but don't understand why they cannot soak unsanforized denim prior to making the jeans thus limiting shrinkage and giving pretty much the same outcome.

 

Take some old 4 or 5" hem scraps, pull the seam stitches, soak or wash the denim, and you'll have your answer.  It's a mess.  Fine for patching knees, but I wouldn't want to attempt to make a pair of jeans from fabric like that.  

 

By sticking with sanforized denim, they've got something that's easy to work with, and is a known product.  The tailor doesn't have to attempt to account for shrinkage (which can be different from denim to denim), and doesn't have to worry about whether the wearer cold soaks or hot washes the jeans. Regardless of how they wash them, the fit will change minimally.  And I would expect most of the guys purchasing these jeans are more concerned about fit rather than fades.  

[lance]

^ good thoughts - my concern is with the effect Sanforizing has on the hand of cotton rather than fade potential.

Edited April 21, 2015 by lance

[halfbaiked]

I feel inclined to wear these jeans more than I usually wear jeans just get get you guys an update within the next three months. 

 

I will way this - I do get people asking me in Levi's stores (not the flagship) which model I am wearing because they do not recognize the cut. Also, some people ask me if I had my 501's altered. So i do believe that it's not just like buying a regular pair (not saying for better or worse) 

[mf051404]

Care to post some fitpics please? Would like to see how they differ from the standard line.

[halfbaiked]

Will do this weekend!

[Foxy2]

Will be in London in June...maybe I'll take a look at their flagship store...

[unders]

Spotted these last night whilst having a look through instagram.

The owner is https://instagram.com/artaltezza/

Thought it was worth sharing to see what can be done with these.

Halfbaiked - looking forward to seeing yours after some wear.

Edited April 21, 2015 by unders

[setterman]

^that's a lot of money for a pair of jeans that don't appear to fit any better than something that could have been bought off the wrack.  

[Kushy]

I too wonder if they are actually breaking even with this project.  Could there be some other motivation for this line?  Are they keeping the measurements to feel the pulse of high end denim heads for a later project? 

I would love a pair of these but $650 is also too rich for me.

[halfbaiked]

Unders! wow I really like that pair... the red is cool. They didn't have pocket-color options in SF where I got mine...

 

I regret not getting that patch that that fellow got. Nothing on the outside of my jeans says Lot 1. :/ 

 

Edit: there were three pocket options at SF - herringbone, beige, or white. I got the white but asked them to increase the pocket size by 3.5 inches long. 

Edited April 23, 2015 by halfbaiked

[unders]

For me this chap has gone a bit too experimental with the red seam and different exposed rivets. I'm also not convinced the length of his are working. I much prefer your jeans with classic styling & details.

My arms are too short for pockets that deep.

[DhaDha]

dude is definitely Thai (well i am thai myself, takes one to know one). Thai people love them stack, hence. 

[Geeman]

dude is definitely Thai (well i am thai myself, takes one to know one). Thai people love them stack, hence. 

I've seen some crazy stacks and some massive cuffs going on in Thailand!!

[DhaDha]

I've seen some crazy stacks and some massive cuffs going on in Thailand!!

 

yeah. typical of chino-asian culture people here just want to show off in the most garish saccharine fashion possible to exert their social power level. you got selvedge? then massive cuff to show off. stacking is sick? stack them 40" hem it is. 

likewise, the design preference tends to be, well, less than subtle, with right-in-your-face being rather average. 

[Geeman]

Have I missed the fit pics? 

[halfbaiked]

Sorry guys - I should have them by the end of the weekend.