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Post Your Leather Creations.


Lotus Cowboy

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Bummer, the wallet looks excellent. What type of leather did you use? Yes, my pony is a beefy, and I think that the angle of the photo makes it look thicker than it really is. I'm really happy with its performance so far, and it only cost me about $20 in materials!

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Bummer, the wallet looks excellent. What type of leather did you use? Yes, my pony is a beefy, and I think that the angle of the photo makes it look thicker than it really is. I'm really happy with its performance so far, and it only cost me about $20 in materials!

You can never go wrong with heavy duty! I made my own pony as well. For anyone who is considering making their own, it really pays off. I would highly recommend a magnetic needle catch like xallanx has. Its also worth going for at least 6 inches of grip length, really cuts down on re-clamp time. When my work load lighten's up I'm planning on adding some quilted pads to seating area. Oh yeah, can't forget custom height.

Leather is W&C carving.

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Bummer - super clean work. Haven't posted any pix in a while. here's a bag I made a couple weeks back, very happy with how it turned out. Horween Dublin outside, front quarter horsehide lining:

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cheers ya'll!

Awesome as always! Question for you (or anyone else out there). How do you work out first drafts/prototypes when creating larger, more leather consuming items? Construct with paper or go straight to some cheap leather?

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Awesome as always! Question for you (or anyone else out there). How do you work out first drafts/prototypes when creating larger, more leather consuming items? Construct with paper or go straight to some cheap leather?

I have paper patterns for every piece that I cut- that functions as a 1st mockup of sorts. If it's a new design I actually built the entire thing in felt first. I like felt because it's cheap but also has thickness similar to leather so it's easier to see how the piece will go. It's also easier to adjust sizing too. Vinyl or other thicker material would probably also do fine in a pinch.

I always, always discover something in building a piece for the first time that could be changed to make things better so I usually build the first piece (or first few) in a cheap leather or use the final material but give it family.

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Awesome as always! Question for you (or anyone else out there). How do you work out first drafts/prototypes when creating larger, more leather consuming items? Construct with paper or go straight to some cheap leather?

I have paper patterns for every piece that I cut- that functions as a 1st mockup of sorts. If it's a new design I actually built the entire thing in felt first. I like felt because it's cheap but also has thickness similar to leather so it's easier to see how the piece will go. It's also easier to adjust sizing too. Vinyl or other thicker material would probably also do fine in a pinch.

I always, always discover something in building a piece for the first time that could be changed to make things better so I usually build the first piece (or first few) in a cheap leather or use the final material but give it family.

When you order leather that has to be split, you can usually keep the flesh side split. For example, your innards or whatever else it may be could have a split up to 8oz. Just ask the supplier for the split. Some companies will re-purpose it for leather-board, but they will usually give it to you free of charge. Its also handy for bonding layers together when you do heavy duty shit or wet-forming.

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New tote design done in natural beaufort chromexcel. The rivets were just a hair too long and I set them anyway disfiguring a bunch in the process. After finishing I realized I needed some spacers and de-riveted and put back together. Ugh live and learn.

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The rivets were just a hair too long and I set them anyway disfiguring a bunch in the process. After finishing I realized I needed some spacers and de-riveted and put back together. Ugh live and learn.

Great tote!

Don't know if you've ever considered copper rivets but they can be cut to size and are very sturdy to boot.

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Great tote!

Don't know if you've ever considered copper rivets but they can be cut to size and are very sturdy to boot.

Thanks! I made another and went back to the copper rivets. Took a lot less time thats for sure!

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Hey Guys,

I’ve been meaning to post pics of my shoe dye experience for a while so here goes. I bought these Allen Edmonds Daltons in gray due to the awesome deal they had on several styles in gray (I guess the gray leather was a bust for AE?) Anyway my plan was to dye them from the start, hopefully being able to go to a rich cordovan color, and a worst case scenario of black. I’m not much of a black shoe guy (I would have much preferred the Dalton boot in Walnut…), but there is absolutely nothing wrong with having a nice pair of black shoes for occasions that call for them! I started out by using deglazer on the shoes to get the shine off and prepare the leather to take the dye. The deglazer did a decent job of removing the polish/top coat and got the color down to a matte gray.

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I suppose the color could have been further removed but I was anxious to get on with the project so they only got 2 applications of deglazer before moving on to the cordovan dye. Yes, the dye used was cordovan, not black, but they pretty much turned out black, with some subtle undertones of a dark brown/reddish color. No need to apply the black dye! The initial color was a grayish brown, but with a bit of polish they settled down into a nice color that I think will look great with some wear. I like the boots, having worn them 2 times now, and I was very surprised by their comfort; they were initially more comfortable than my similarly styled McAllisters were when new. I’ve got some flat waxed laces to install, which won’t make a huge difference but I think I’ll like them better than the current round laces. (We’re a fickle bunch, aren’t we?)

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Been working with Latigo for the first time this weekend and its been quite the adventure getting a smooth edge. Ill leave this here for future reference: damp sanding -> gum trag -> plastic bone folder -> beeswax. Canvas and wood burnisher did nothing. And if you try working against the grain youre gonna have a bad time. Latigo aint got time for dat.

Edited by howler
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