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Shoes that look better with age...


mizanation

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RW GTs on a rainy day:

I've had these for a while but hadn't posted pics; boots look redder in 2nd pic b/c there was a bit more sunlight!

Ichiran

Your GT are very water repellent. Did u use mink oil or sno seal something like that to keep the water out?

My RW and my trickers absorb water alot and it leaves water mark on it. It take quite a few clean and polish to remove it

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"Send him message regarding the return policy stuff like that..havent heard yet so i guess it is probably still early there. I dont know it is saturday over there right? So maybe they wont be open today..."

RIGHT NOW IT'S 5.30am SATURDAY IN UK, SO I WOULDN;T WORRY IF YOU HAVEN;T HEARD ANYTHING QUITE YET;)

but at least i can have a good look at the cordovan shoe. I really love the smell of leather...weird me...

I know what you mean- I have a friend who works in a good shoe shop, and he pointed out to me that calf leather shoes smell like cows, and cordovam smells like horses. Sounds weird, but I really think it;s true! Obviously I'd only recommend checking this on brand new shoes:D

I'mglad if they fit you;re brother, but can;t you just exchange them for the correct size?

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^Maybe you can sell them to your brother? Since they shipped them so quickly to you, they seem to have good customer service, so hopefully you'll have no problem returning. You'll probably have to pay for the shipping, though. Whether they'd exchange would probably depend on what they have in stock, which is hard to predict.

I've just been using wax polish (Kiwi) on the GTs. I was thinking of switching to a paste polish like Meltonian, but it's true that the wax polish helps the leather resist water.

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"Send him message regarding the return policy stuff like that..havent heard yet so i guess it is probably still early there. I dont know it is saturday over there right? So maybe they wont be open today..."

RIGHT NOW IT'S 5.30am SATURDAY IN UK, SO I WOULDN;T WORRY IF YOU HAVEN;T HEARD ANYTHING QUITE YET;)

but at least i can have a good look at the cordovan shoe. I really love the smell of leather...weird me...

I know what you mean- I have a friend who works in a good shoe shop, and he pointed out to me that calf leather shoes smell like cows, and cordovam smells like horses. Sounds weird, but I really think it;s true! Obviously I'd only recommend checking this on brand new shoes:D

I'mglad if they fit you;re brother, but can;t you just exchange them for the correct size?

is a factory store, or outlet. So they would only list whatever available at the moment...i guess. I ask him in the message other size upon available but that is the only one. That's why i m so desperate to buy it now cuz i dont want other to outbid me.

Definitely going to talk to him over the next few days, but i dont think he will return me the shipping from there to here. And i have to pay the shipping back there. So whatever happen, i lost $100 no matter what, unless he is willing to refund my shipping as well, which i doubt. Anyway..seems like that you focus on language or grammar alot. Without you telling me, i see nothing about the cordovan tag.

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^Maybe you can sell them to your brother? Since they shipped them so quickly to you, they seem to have good customer service, so hopefully you'll have no problem returning. You'll probably have to pay for the shipping, though. Whether they'd exchange would probably depend on what they have in stock, which is hard to predict.

I've just been using wax polish (Kiwi) on the GTs. I was thinking of switching to a paste polish like Meltonian, but it's true that the wax polish helps the leather resist water.

I wouldnt want to exchange anything right now, cuz the size and i dont want to pay for another shipping. Well, just a learning experience i guess. It did shakin my online buying habits abit. First time ever i have problem with sizing. I usually do a pretty good research b4 buying online. I better return it or sell it on supermarket or other forum before my brother took it from me...

I heard that Lincoln shoe wax are pretty good as well. Never try tho.

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Anyway..seems like that you focus on language or grammar alot. Without you telling me, i see nothing about the cordovan tag.

:rolleyes:yeah I'm a loser:) No it just seemed odd to me that a brand that's deliberately showing off it's heritage and 'englishness' would make so many weird mistakes. That was the only bit that made me think they might be dodgy (made in China or something), but it sounds like they;re fine, so just a small not-very-interesting mystery I guess...

good luck with getting the other size, and sorry about the wasted shipping. Otherwise I hope you're brother's grateful/rich!

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The only thing that bothers me about these is the Cordovan booklet you got with them. It's great when companies include this kind of thing, but on this one the English is really bad- like it was written by someone for whom (being careful now:D) English wasn't their first language. "trouble-less for the health", "a pair of shoe", "fiber (American rather than British English)", "unique flavour (British English) and a gloss". :confused:

I agree about the writing in the booklet, and my immediate take on this was that the leather doesn't come from Horween in Chicago but rather from Japan, with the most likely candidate being the Shinki-Hikaku Co. http://www.shinki-hl.co.jp, It's still real shell though.

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is this true? I know cordovan is very expensive, but does it really need 2-3 horses to make a pair?

Well, as I remember, it's traditionally said to be one horse per pair, but I guess it really depends on the size of the horse(s) and especially how big a butt they have :)

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FBF, I have shopped at the trickers factory shop and had several dealings with David. I can say his customer services are top notch and if it was a mistake on his part I'm sure he will not quibble with a refund. You won't hear back from him until Monday because the shop is not open at weekends, as far as I remember.

The trickers factory shop on ebay is most certainly a genuine, trustworthy seller, selling directly from the factory in Northampton, for any of you wondering.

About the english on that card.... I remember reading somewhere that shell cordovan also comes from Spain. Perhaps this could explain the language?

Edit: I just read the above post about Japanese shell too....

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About the english on that card.... I remember reading somewhere that shell cordovan also comes from Spain. Perhaps this could explain the language?

Edit: I just read the above post about Japanese shell too....

and that reminds me that Cordovan is originally Cordoban from Cordoba in southern Spain (I believe). All this would also explain why these shoes are available in other colours than the Horween standard of #8 or Black (+cigar & whiskey if you're lucky).

Glad to hear the seller's kosher, and good luck FBF with getting a replacement/refund:)

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All this would also explain why these shoes are available in other colours than the Horween standard of #8 or Black (+cigar & whiskey if you're lucky).

Horween does run colors other than those listed above. It just takes someone to actually order a sizable quantity of it. Some of these colors include, Brandy, Whiskey, Mahogany, Natural, #4, dark brown, navy, and forest green.

From Ron Rider:

http://i9.tinypic.com/67f5v1s.jpg

To my knowledge, there are only 2 significant sources of shell, Horween and Japan (Shinki-Hikaku being the major if not only producer). There was some rumor that there was a producer in Korea as well.

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thanks a lot Amlai, and excellent picture. and slt- impressive link!

answers.com tells us a bit more (http://www.answers.com/topic/cordovan), although some of it (only made by Horween) has already been disproved here...

"The color cordovan is a very dark burgundy brown. Pantone defines it as CMYK 30-80-60-30 which corresponds to RGB 137, 63, 69 and #893f45.

Cordovan takes its name from the city of Cordoba, Spain, where the production of cordovan leather was first practiced."

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dscf0342wp8.jpg

個人還是認為一雙靴子必須使用超過一年才能看出真正的質感

小小比較一下這三雙不同款式的Joe McCOY Boots

dscf0297io0.jpg

牛皮材質的LINEMAN BOOTS 使用的牛皮材質是經過高溫、高壓處理過的漆皮

作成足夠厚度又超高密度的質感

這樣的做法讓牛皮不論是新作成產品或者如照片中使用過一段時間的樣子

都呈現與一般我們認知中極具細密和高級代表的"馬臀皮"所展現出的質感

非常相近

dscf0302vj9.jpg

換個角度看雖然鞋身長度很長(約43 & 9號尺寸) 但是經常彎折處皮革確呈現很淺且細密的皺摺

證明整體的皮質密度都很高而且很平均

dscf0305zl9.jpg

拉近距離仔細觀察,這就是我說的:很淺且細密的皺摺

dscf0306gc0.jpg

本篇三雙鞋都是依照1940年代的工作鞋製做工法去製造

唯獨鞋底部位有額外加強,上圖可看出使用雙層皮中底

而鞋身皮革的接片兩道縫線也非常接近

dscf0307as2.jpg

腳後根部位這個很小的洞是一個很關鍵的東西

因為這是一種老式的靴子縫製夾具上為了固定位置

方便手縫的尖針留下的痕跡

證明了這雙鞋子確實是採用非常紮實的古法製造

dscf0310js6.jpg

鞋面上露出縫合內部皮襯裡的縫線

dscf0321nx6.jpg

靴筒頂端的內側使用雙層漆皮面做內襯

dscf0325vz3.jpg

鞋子楦頭部位的縫製

dscf0329dq4.jpg

鞋子上五金的使用也是重點之一

我個人很喜歡LINEMAN BOOTS 上使用的不鏽鋼環、鉤

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另外LINEMAN BOOTS 也出過一款雙色的特殊限量版

1082366935ve1.jpg

dscf0300fq6.jpg

同時期製做的這雙RAILMAN BOOTS 同樣使用經過高溫、高壓處理過的(牛皮材質)漆皮

但是這雙很特別的是皮面的顏色是偏深紫色的咖啡,非常具代表性

dscf0331em8.jpg

之前曾經貼過一雙同款的兄弟鞋但是換過底

1690651182.jpg

不過這裡還是以原廠的設定為主

dscf0333ir3.jpg

雖然跟LINEMAN 款設計的鞋型不同,經過穿著後產生的皺摺必定有差異

但是還是有相同細密的直感表現

dscf0335fj6.jpg

同時可見的鞋身裁片和鞋底接合處的車縫

dscf0336ek8.jpg

因為鞋後根的皮革為單片一體所以不須接縫

而頂端則直接把皮革番折下來車縫

dscf0337qi8.jpg

後根外側一樣可以見到古式夾具留下的針洞

dscf0298cv0.jpg

這雙黃色麂皮面的LINEMAN BOOTS 使用的皮質其實是鹿皮

所以舒適度非常好

dscf0229rx8.jpg

因為前幾篇已經介紹過這雙所以不多贅述

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dscf0302vj9.jpg

換個角度看雖然鞋身長度很長(約43 & 9號尺寸) 但是經常彎折處皮革確呈現很淺且細密的皺摺

證明整體的皮質密度都很高而且很平均

dscf0305zl9.jpg

take this two pics as an example, so is it that if the crease on the leather are more condense, smooth, or close together, it means is a better quality leather because is more balance?

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totally with you. they somehow look strange to me...

I've always though lace-to-toe was a no-no for me on structured boots (although i quite like Chucks and bowling-alley bowling shoes), but today I was in Take5 in Hong Kong, and I saw a pair of Lone Wolfs for the first time (lace-to-toe, with that fringed tonue-protector thing, Cat's Paw soles)- I have to admit they do have a certain something in the flesh:rolleyes:

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Does Lace-to-toe boot has another name as "monkey boot"? Or what does monkey boot means?

I can;t give you a definite answer- I'd be interested to hear anyone's information on this too:)

But I've been told by a friend who knows about these things that Monkey boots were cheap construction-workers' boots that skinheads who couldn't afford Doc Marten's bought. They've since acquired cult classic status, so other brands have remade them (like the trickers fre$co quoted below), probably better quality than the originals.

please correct me if i'm wrong, or if anyone knows anything more

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I can;t give you a definite answer- I'd be interested to hear anyone's information on this too:)

But I've been told by a friend who knows about these things that Monkey boots were cheap construction-workers' boots that skinheads who couldn't afford Doc Marten's bought. They've since acquired cult classic status, so other brands have remade them (like the trickers fre$co quoted below), probably better quality than the originals.

please correct me if i'm wrong, or if anyone knows anything more

I've seen more or less the same explanation, i.e. the term comes from the boots originally worn by construction workers, who are climbing buldings, scaffolds etc. and therefore are being nicknamed 'monkeys'.

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It's funny, I don't particularly like chucks either and haven't worn them for many years. I do however like trickers monkey boots like the ones below. I guess there is no reasoning.

trickersmonkey.jpg

nbyc6w.jpg

beautiful! also, redwing has some lace-to-toe that looks pretty good as well, just cant find the pics yet..

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