Shoes that look better with age...

[percy 56,825]

look nice. what size aldens are they get and what are you normally?

[fre-co 895,113]

I normally wear a UK8.5 (wide fitting) in Trickers country boots or a UK9 in Crockett and Jones hand grade. I have redwing 875 in US9.5D which are too big, I think 9D would be ok.

These Aldens are US8.5EEE and the fit is pretty much spot on, but I haven't tried any other sizes... another user happened to be selling these.

[tmadd 52,026]

Those look great...a nice crisp look which is the polar opposite of how my 405s are looking. Are those the pair with the eyelets all the way up?

[fre-co 895,113]

yes indeed they are.

[barwag 60]

Barwag - no never heard of that maker, noting too much came up above the fold in google either.

fre$co - does that mean the 405s fit? Cool!

ok, just thought i might ask, since a have a pair of really beautiful and hi-quality jodhpurs from them, and wouldnt mind another pair.

today i found out about a brand named shipton & heneage, seems quite big in the UK if ive got it right. found a couple of nice shoes from them, how are the quality etc?

[skalogre 251]

ok, just thought i might ask, since a have a pair of really beautiful and hi-quality jodhpurs from them, and wouldnt mind another pair.

today i found out about a brand named shipton & heneage, seems quite big in the UK if ive got it right. found a couple of nice shoes from them, how are the quality etc?

Much like Charles Tyrwhitt, S&H carry rebranded (and possibly made to their specifications) shoes from other companies, possibly Alfred Sargent among others.

[braid 190,961]

fre$co, they look very nice.

might I ask what boots those are in the background in the first pic?

[mizanation 105,113]

they are having a $30 off sale at the alden store in manhattan on the indy boots.

tempting....

[fre-co 895,113]

fre$co, they look very nice.

might I ask what boots those are in the background in the first pic?

Those are my trickers weatherby.

Miz - you know it makes sense.

[jubei 2,286]

they are having a $30 off sale at the alden store in manhattan on the indy boots.

tempting....

$30 or 30%?

$30 is like sales tax...

are you able to get away with wearing your boots to work, miz?

[GregNYC 1,302]

Miz - I'da thought you already had one or more sets of Indies!

Got my White's back from Alex today. I an't gonna wear them till I can do some good photos. They did a pretty good job and did something that many folks will like, and I've never seen it on White's. I'll take photos Friday or Saturday. There are still a few residues from the ink, but I'm OK for now. Anything better would require an entirely new midsole and re-welting job that will approximate the cost of the boots. I'll do that next time and wear them for now unless everybody here thinks the boots suck!

Also coming up - photos of some 1968 Army issue Vietnam jungle boots I won from ebay. Seller's picture, more later after I refurbish them. I never got myself a pair of these while I was in the Army, even though they were regulation up through the mid 80's I believe. These are the real deal, made back in the day by govt contractor Genesco (who make Johnston and Murphy, and who Foot Locker tried unsuccessfully to buy out in 2007). Imagine how they'll look with some LVCs and an OD field jacket. And they fit!!!

[rnrswitch 1,223,207]

I have a pair of those in black from my pops. Still got some Vietnam soil on them.

[fre-co 895,113]

Looking forward to seeing the White's Greg. Those Vietnam boots look pretty hardcore. Am I right in saying they are not goodyear welted, or is it just the picture?

Pics please rnrswitch....

[GregNYC 1,302]

^Not Goodyear welted, just fused to the upper. Disposable boots, but they wore a long time.....

[braid 190,961]

sorry if this has been explained but could someone provide info or a link describing exactly what "goodyear welting" means? I know it indicates the shoe can be rebuilt, but I don't understand why. What do you mean by "fused to the upper" as opposed to being goodyear welted?

[skalogre 251]

sorry if this has been explained but could someone provide info or a link describing exactly what "goodyear welting" means? I know it indicates the shoe can be rebuilt, but I don't understand why. What do you mean by "fused to the upper" as opposed to being goodyear welted?

http://styleforum.pbwiki.com/Shoes

Go down to the section "Welted". In a nutshell, there is stitching involved versus only glueing

[amlai 77,947]

Basically a welt is a piece of leather that is sewn to the upper and then the sole is stitched to the welt. This is different than some other shoe constructions, where the sole is sewn directly to the upper. There's a picture of Goodyear construction here:

http://www.la-botte.com/club/goodyear_us.shtml

By having the sole stitched to the welt, this allows for the shoe to be rebuilt more times than many of the other shoe constructions. When a new sole is attached, the stitches go through the welt. After a number of resolings, there is too much damage to the welt and the welt is replaced. I believe that the shoe can be resoled with the same welt a handful of times and the welt can also be changed a handful of times, giving the shoe a very long life with many resolings.

On other non-welted constructions, because the sole is stitched directly to the upper, the shoe can't be resoled as many times due to the damage to the upper every time the shoe is resoled.

I hope this makes sense.

[Chicken 206,735]

here's a little diagram, too:

Goodyear Welt Construction means that a supportive insole & welt is stitched directly to a leather upper. The outsole is then lock stitched to the welt for a strong permanent attachment. This kind of detailed craftsmanship results in a shoe that is not only comfortable but sturdy & durable at the same time.

and some photo samples.

[skalogre 251]

Basically a welt is a piece of leather that is sewn to the upper and then the sole is stitched to the welt. This is different than some other shoe constructions, where the sole is sewn directly to the upper. There's a picture of Goodyear construction here:

http://www.la-botte.com/club/goodyear_us.shtml

By having the sole stitched to the welt, this allows for the shoe to be rebuilt more times than many of the other shoe constructions. When a new sole is attached, the stitches go through the welt. After a number of resolings, there is too much damage to the welt and the welt is replaced. I believe that the shoe can be resoled with the same welt a handful of times and the welt can also be changed a handful of times, giving the shoe a very long life with many resolings.

On other non-welted constructions, because the sole is stitched directly to the upper, the shoe can't be resoled as many times due to the damage to the upper every time the shoe is resoled.

I hope this makes sense.

Better written than any attempt of mine would have been

[Chicken 206,735]

^ true.

and braidkid, notice for example in greg's jungle boots, there are bumps around the top rim of the rubber sole sort of imitating the welt construction. some shoes even use an imitation welt stitched around the top flat edge of the sole for decorative purposes, but it is not a functional part of the shoe.

[braid 190,961]

you guys are awesome....thanks for the informative links and explanation.

So based on chicken's diagram above, the welt should always be able to be seen? So in this picture for example, the welt is the black looking thin strip in the middle of the circled area? Why do you not see this black strip around the heel?

[GregNYC 1,302]

Chicken - good point about the pseudo welt markings - exactly why there are there. Back in those days, there were not as many non-welted boots, so the eye wasn't as accustomed to a smooth line between upper and sole.

Braidkid - Yes, that's the welt. I'm not 100% sure why it doesn't go all around. But here's my guess.

1. Not needed since the heel isn't gonna have to get detached from the upper, since there are many layers of heel to change first.

2. Notice that the welt extends farther back than the seam on the upper. This allows that part of the upper to be changed if the stitch-holes are blown out by too many re-weltings. The heel portion of the upper can be left in place. By then, the shoe should be replaced.

Here's a nice photo-essay of a re-soling job on some Bruno Magli dress shoes. Mentions the welt a bit, not too much:

Essay here on styleforum

[Chicken 206,735]

greg, yeah i guess it's like when cars were first designed, they were modeled after horse carriages. we are used to what we are used to.

[ang_kangkong 381]

Great thread Greg. Do you post at the steez?

Anyway, this is what the shoes looked like before:

and after they fixed it up:

[GregNYC 1,302]

ang - wow, are those your shoes? That transformation itself is a good answer to someone here who earlier asked why leather soles. It's an entirely different attitude towards shoes and the things of life.

Steez, never heard of that nickname before. Every once in a while on sf and Ask Andy and Fedora Lounge. But for erotica-free boot chat, this thread is the place! (puns and riffs welcome!)

[amlai 77,947]

Braidkid - Yes, that's the welt. I'm not 100% sure why it doesn't go all around. But here's my guess.

1. Not needed since the heel isn't gonna have to get detached from the upper, since there are many layers of heel to change first.

I believe that beyond the welt, the sole is simply glued on. In the heel area, I believe that the layers are just glued and nailed down. No stitches. Because there are no stitches, there is no need for a welt.

[.Legacy 47,220]

gettin oiled up.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/markieta/IMG_3715.jpg?t=1202509800

[jamoo 11]

Any opinions on these?

http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/28439991/c/103047.html

I'm assuming they're a watered down version of the 875 here:

http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/28451830/c/126909.html

Does anyone have any experience with the "inspired"? Should I just stick with the tried and true 875?

thanks

[braid 190,961]

Can someone with any sense talk me out of some Alden cordovan cap toe boots?

Is the 4060/4065 the same boot as the AF60?

I am also interested in a lighter tan boot. These Tricker Burford's look like they fit the bill but dont appear to be available online in the states...

http://image.www.rakuten.co.jp/explorer/img10561281887.jpeg

Anyone know of anything available that's similar?

[riff 3,528,129]

The AF60's are on a different last, with a commando sole, and speed hooks.

You can sometimes find the Trickers Burford cropping up on Ebay, or online in the UK.