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BS United Oni Denim Pics


john11f

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I usually wear a 34 in most jeans and sized down to a 32 in the blues. I couldn't get some of the bottons buttoned at first but these guys def strech out a lot, and fit great now.

I'd reccomend sizing down 1 or 2 but def not anymore.

this is really true I bought a size 32 oni blue and they stretched all the way out to a 34 and are huge on me now. Def go down a size or two.
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I don't know yet. I mean, a lot of the allure of the natural indigo pants is the amount of effort that goes into them. That and the durability of the dye due to it penetrating to the core of the yarn.

Since synthetic and natural indigo are chemically equivalent and all that, I'm a bit perplexed by this whole thing. I mean, it seems like Oni (or someone) found a way to reduce the natural indigo dying process down to exactly like the synthetic indigo process. I don't quite get the point.

You're correct in that much of the appeal/price has to do with the fact that natural indigo requires hand-dying, whereas these guys are machine-dyed, which of course reduces the cost greatly. I don't personally see any advantage of having natural indigo other than the historical appreciation and "art" aspects of the dying process.
that's really the exact point....as well as any of the stuff we buy in this forum..
well if the samurais arent hand dyed why are they so much? gold hardware and "extra thick patch"? bullshit.

whatever though i think its cool how oni put out a nonslubby jean and tried to be innovative while they did it.

Im interested to see if natural indigo fades differently then synthetic if the jeans are both rope dyed...hmmm.

A new process involves grinding the indigo leaves, debris included, into a fine

mulch then converting it into rocks of dark blue indigo chunks that are then

diluted in water to be used as a dye. To deal with the issue of the minimum

required amounts of indigo needed for the normal size rope dyeing machines,

a smaller size rope dyeing machine was specially built. Also with rope dyeing

comes the ability to control the penetration of dye to the core of the cotton

yarns allowing for an indigo dyed yarn that maintains a white core center, an

essential element for the color falling common in most denim jeans. Hand

dyeing almost always results in a completely blue dyed yarn which will fade

over time but at a much slower rate than a rope dyed white core centered yarn.

Thus the Oni Kabuki-Vedge (the black, green, and orange stripes seen on the

selvage being the three colors found on curtains used in Kabuki performances)

using this cost effective dyeing method has made it possible to create a denim

jean made from natural indigo and dyed using the rope dyeing method to allow

for superb color falling and distressing and offered at a price comparable to its

synthetic indigo counterparts.

-----------------

Thought id contribute some random opinion and waffle.

Personally I love the arcs oni have, they are not at all as ugly as diesel, true religion stuff - and I think the average girl looking at your bum would just assume you have any old pair of jeans on. Also best selvedge design ever for me! Maybe paul smiths was good too...

I was going to get these jeans but then I gave in and got some kapitals in their new No 4 fabric ( will post pics sometime, my paypal takes an eon to clear )... anyhow, not to be argumentative but here are some points .

Theetruscan - oni invented a whole new process and machine for the production of these jeans, this 'special' aspect is surely part of the appeal to some, extra effort certainly has gone into these. Also theoretically yeah both dyes are the same- but in practice... not so much, because of the impurities.... and oni deliberately left the impurities in. In regard to this the process, dye, and jean is pretty different from its synthetic equivalents

Gimmegimme - obviously hand dyed jeans have a wonderfully romantic appeal. I think these onis have something to offer to, a unique approach etc.. that costs money, building a whole new machine is an obvious cost, these jeans do have a pretty different process than all the other onis to be honest! I would like these jeans because of the extra effort and whatnot thats gone into using a natural dye with impurites in - the oni-kabuki appeal stems from the same reasons as sc40500 would appeal...

Poly - totally that is the exact point, for Hawaiis, Shoais and also Kabukis, but to be honest I think 95% of products mentioned here are bought for other reasons, no one seems to get much of a kick out of a pair of Hawaiis hand felled seams, some people yeah, but most are happy with TFH or PBJ or new standards because they are "cool jeans" ( which reminds me no one has bought the john bull sc008s the skinniest selvedge jean available and also 18% HEMP!!! - but no one wants to jump on it, baffles me! The amount of people who ask about hem width, taper their jeans ask which samurai is slimmest, and yet there is a japanese hemp selvedge model in a hobokenesque cut being ignored. )

Ktouran - I would expect these to fade differently because of the impurities.

These Kabukis are such a reasonably priced jean, synthetic samurais would cost you more! The only other competition would come from full counts 15th anniversary natural jeans, that are a similar price.

Back onto the arcurate, Its allways struck me how cool the oni vedge design would fade, i imagine it would be quite nice.

I also love the thick and thin stitching on oni pockets, lovely stuff.

Rant over x

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Theetruscan - oni invented a whole new process and machine for the production of these jeans, this 'special' aspect is surely part of the appeal to some, extra effort certainly has gone into these. Also theoretically yeah both dyes are the same- but in practice... not so much, because of the impurities.... and oni deliberately left the impurities in. In regard to this the process, dye, and jean is pretty different from its synthetic equivalents

I definitely think that the new process is quite cool. It just seems to me that they are going to all this work to end up with something much closer to standard synthetic indigo than I would like. Also, I'm grumpy because I am over slim jeans, and I want kabuki reds.

And, no matter what you say, their kabuki-vedge arcs look like the bastard offspring of santa claus and gucci.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I washed my Reds the other day. I regret doing so. I thought they had enough wear, but in retrospect, I think it was a mistake. Pics tomorrow if I have time.

I wash my blues more than I think most people around here would, and they look great, imo. Onis seem to retain thier indigo pretty well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Where the hell are all the worn pic's of the Oni Shoai's 19oz Natural Indigos that everyone went crazy about???

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for you guys, i'm gonna include it in my rotation but the samurai s510xx ai-n is priority for now. just because it's the only natural indigo jeans i have that fades fast. i've given up on my pbj ai-001 but i'm determined to put some wear on the shoai's. it's just that i've been concentrating on a lot of other pairs. at the end of the day, these natural indigo jeans are nice as it is.

i'm in hk right now and was just at take5 and again tempted to get the momotarouxtake5 collab and the sda ww2 model. they also have the new one, i think d1335 is what it's called. but i've signed up for no more denim after i got the tsl d51xxx.

it'll never end if you don't put a stop on this fascination w/ japanese denim. i'm getting myself the red moon coin purse that the owner and his staff will be specially make for you but really don't have any use for them. i'd be buying a phone pouch though......

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Join the no more denim club :P

BTW, I also gave up on the AI-001. It's just too much, and the inseam is a bit shorter than I want. I'm kinda tempted to get custom strongholds out of the similar denim though :P

Also tempted, but the price is brutal.

EDIT: I should clarify that I don't think the price is unfair, it's just a lot of cash for a poor-ass student like me.

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