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Loopwheeled/Vintage T-Shirts


jstavrin

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I might give Velva Sheen another try, though I found their sizing to be entirely inconsistent. I've gotta ask: who's RMC?

If I remember right Velva Sheen's size is like a half size small. I'm not sure how they did that, but it ends up being kind of awkward. But I like their shirts. Unfortunately I can't fit any of the Japanese made shirts so my goal is to find some Velva Sheen's in a XL.

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Just in case you guys wanted to see the machine in action a bit. And in case you guys were interested in just like getting a taste of loopwheel, if you search loopwheeler on ebay you can find the Nike x Loopwheeler sweaters and shirts for around half price. I'm pretty sure it's their lighter weight stuff, but it's nice. YKK zippers though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nike-NSW-x-Loopwheeler-Hoodie-/321091153225?pt=US_Mens_Sweats_Hoodies&hash=item4ac2862d49

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nike-X-Loopwheeler-AW-77-Ekiden-Crew-Sweatshirt-XL-Orange-/350584371232?pt=US_Mens_Sweats_Hoodies&hash=item51a074f820

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nike-Black-Label-Sportswear-ACG-Loopwheeler-Oregon-Shirts-sz-S-/370781322045?pt=US_Womens_Athleticwear&hash=item565449fb3d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nike-NSW-Loopwheeler-AW77-FZ-Hoody-Sz-XL-new-grey-black-premium-453035-063-/390541551621?pt=UK_Men_s_Activewear&hash=item5aee172805

Edited by ksisouk
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I'm looking to have some printed t-shirts made for me. Can anyone suggest some good t-shirt brands you get in the U.S. to use? You can't get loopwheel t-shirt blanks in the U.S. can you?

There is no such thing as a Made in US loopwheeled fabric any more. You can go into the t-shirt thread to inquire about other tees to print on.

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I suppose that ends the debate on if The Real McCoy's tees are loop-wheeled.

Real McCoy over the years has actually made some of their tees in Japan, those are loopwheeled for sure.

From my knowledge the ones made by Velva-Sheen aren't.

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Real McCoy over the years has actually made some of their tees in Japan, those are loopwheeled for sure.

From my knowledge the ones made by Velva-Sheen aren't.

I was referring to the made in the USA ones in the two-pack and the Champion repros. I had no idea the two-pack shirts are made by Velva-Sheen. Thanks for the info!

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I'm convinced one will not be able to just see the difference.

It is more likely a combination of things:

- the yarns used (modern machines run at higher speed with considerably higher friction/tension on the yarns - certain yarns that can be used for loop wheel machines can not be used on modern machines, notice the lint in videos...)

- the hand/hand feel

- the loop formation process and result

- differentiating between loop wheel and sinker wheel knits may be even harder

- certain effects and loop types are not possible on machines with fixed needle bars

Similar to the horse hide - steer hide issue a while ago looking at the whole hide is the only way to be certain (genetic test is not an option for loopwheeled tees...)- in regards to loop wheel/sinker wheel:

- know the brand...

- know the agent or factory they work with and produce at...

- know the machine brand/type used...

Edited by Foxy2
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So, I did send a question about the name of the machine manufacturer to LoopWheeler's customer service - no big expectations, but let's see if we get a reply...

Here is a picture I borrowed from Merz bei Schwanen and their website:

8e8dc368bfb15efa876551513e5e3062_zpsa2fbb5d0.jpg

(Again, please take note that Merz b. Schwanen does not make any statement on their website about their machines being loop wheel machines!)

It probably shows the transmission head/center pole that drives the cylinder/needle bar - it is a Alber & Bitzer from 1940. Apparently, the company still exists under the name AlBi Alber & Bitzer Maschienenfabrik in Albstadt, Germany.

Due to the machine type and build (no engine block - only transmission) of old style loop and sinker wheel machines I would guess that finding these machines supplier & serial number plates will be difficult, especially in photographs. Most of the machines are arranged in customized settings and probably reconfiguration multiple times over the years. If the plates have manged to stay on certain machine parts, these spots will most likely not in direct view...

I have even going through some of my old magazines - randomly - and found some more pictures in the Dayton Bros Samurai book from 2011 and maybe some more in the Lightning Tee book. I will try to take some pictures and post the soon - maybe we can get somebody to translate the page scans at one point...)

Edited by Foxy2
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LoopWheeler actually did come back on my inquiry regarding the machine manufacturer. They regretted to inform me they don't know the manufacturer's name and did not offer any further details.

However, LoopWheeler did ask me why I'm interested in these details - I did explain the discussion that we were having over here and did provide a link to this thread...

It seems like we have no further information from LoopWheeler other than:

- 2 factories in Wakayama are still using Loop Wheel machines, most probably the only ones still used comercially in Japan

- 1 of those 2 factories has around 100 Loop Wheel machines running and about another hundred in storage for replacement and spare parts

- these machines were build in Japan by a currently unknown Loop Wheel manufacturer probably around 1920

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Speaking of LoopWheeler - my order did arrive the other day...

A new hoody for me - double-layer construction, suitable for Moscow conditions:

f9b295813ec9040a49721e123437ede1_zps53cfa7d4.jpg

705d581ea91c4e58cda8b0f3be40809c_zpsaa026355.jpg

b38fac934fcc0009580c5860ebc4cee0_zps009f08a8.jpg

Flatlock seams

fd6b47452cb591aa1742721688e2e61e_zpsc5a30667.jpg

fcf508239bfe6dd86649c823353a6c60_zps63f1538a.jpg

5d90f579f0f33060094fb023e6396487_zpsf58fc9a1.jpg

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Along with a new Swiss cotton tee...

ea62e185a65c63ec9771f9e6e9af6c92_zps1a6d224f.jpg

bd2d3cfd58727e19bd3ed49e76c93b11_zps5910d498.jpg

The sleeve construction is interesting: the front is a regular set-in sleeve while the back is a raglan with back yoke:

e6e25c9c99b2b06dee78cf84784a13b4_zpsa5152721.jpg

d1ad6132b06e45efb8a865426468c617_zps37ac8e88.jpg

The complication here is that the shoulder point of the front sleeve has to be pivoted under the needle at the machine. A relatively delicate operation, requiring very good operator skills - beautifully executed on this tee. Will take detail pictures after initial wash.

Comparing it with my 3-years-old Swiss cotton tee (regular/set-in sleeve construction)...

8bd4450801e09bac746248adca07be4c_zpsd9c0b64d.jpg

3d6aa52beaacca7dfb72f76cc903ca69_zps5de1e10d.jpg

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They are narrow and sit tight - similar to TFH THC-, TFT- and FLT-series.

They will go over your head w/o too much of an effort or pain. They will stretch a little bit over time, but most importantly they will not loose shape.

Actual measurement for neck hole opening: 17.5" - 44,5cm circumfence (measured flat, at the base of the neck opening rip)

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Here are the pre-wash measurements for the LoopWheeler items:

Swiss cotton tee size M

Chest 19 3/4"

Back Length 27"

Double layer hoody size M

Chest 22"

Back Length 26" (incl. rip hem)

Sleeve Length 22 3/4" (incl. rip cuff)

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Did wash the tee according to instruction (hand warm, very low spin):

Swiss cotton tee size M

Chest 19 3/4" - 19 1/2"

Back Length 27" - 26 3/4"

Virtually no shrinkage - won't rule out any further shrinkage (especially, if you wash it properly), but if memory serves right LoopWheeler tees and sweatshirts didn't shrink that much in the past...

Did order the tee here: http://loopwheeler.jp/en/items/14.html?ct=16

Cost: ¥9450 +shiping

Just for clarification what actually is Swiss about this tee:

"LW Swiss Cotton Plain Stitch

LOOPWHEELER original LW Swiss cotton is made out of extra long Supima cotton (*1) from the USA west coast where the spinning process takes place in Switzerland.

Not only famous for the production of watches, audio goods and precision machineries, Switzerland also owns a world class spinning industry that produces high quality yarn.

Swiss yarns fewer than 60 yarn count are firm despite of its fineness with a unique gloss that shows its distinct quality. Spun from three 80 yarn count Swiss cotton yarns to make this special texture, it is an original practice of Loopwheeler which cannot be found anywhere in the world.

(*1)Extra long cotton (extra long fiber) is fiber with a length over 35mm. Fiber less than 21mm is short fiber cotton, less than 28mm is middle length fiber cotton and those over 28mm is long fiber cotton. The longer the fiber, the higher quality and price it is."

...quoted from LoopWheeler online shop.

The knitting of the fabric (on Loop Wheel Machines) and manufacturing of the tee (cut & sewn) takes place in Japan.

Edited by Foxy2
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How to I size in flathead tees? Will they all shrink after wash?

Use our measurements:

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68

Compare those to tees you already own. General rule of thumb is 38 = XS, 40 = S, 42 = M, etc..

They've all been rinsed, shrinkage is minimal.

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