Jeans of the Old West: A History

[Sansome1877]

Mike, those Neustadter's look fantastic. Wish I could see you wearing those in person, see some of your collection in the flesh, maybe have you sign my copy of your book or something.

Why isn't there some time and place where those things could happen?

Wow Roy, I never knew you had psychic abilities? I am going to be at Union Made in San Francisco signing books, Saturday November 6. If you have a book bring it down and if you don't, I will have a few copies on hand.

[roy6]

I will definitely be there.

What stuff are you bringing from your personal collection? Early duck pleated-front Levi's jacket maybe? Huh? Huh?

[Sansome1877]

I will definitely be there.

What stuff are you bringing from your personal collection? Early duck pleated-front Levi's jacket maybe? Huh? Huh?

Not sure yet, I think the A.B Elfelts. It would be nice to have our reproduction pair next to the originals? The Levi duck jacket is to fragile, I should bring a few early Levi waistbands?

[rnrswitch]

Whatever you do don't let Roy6 borrow them, you'll never get them back.

[aho]

Random thought...I owe this thread some pictures but every time I try to take some with my camera they don't do justice...I'll post up what I got in a bit though!

[mtchfrnk]

Nothing compared to Mike's collection, but I though I might share this pair of white drill work pants here.

Metal suspender and fly buttons. Note that fly buttons are stitched with black thread; suspenders w/white. This is because the fly buttons are hidden from view, but the stitch that attaches the suspenders button shows through the waistband.

Selvedge outseam. It is not ironed flat ("busted") like jeans; I'm holding it open. Note the fabric defect just below my finger.

A dart shapes the top-block; it's hidden by the beltloop. You can kind of see a "z" stitch at the top and bottom of the beltloop...

Detail of "z." I wonder why it's done this way?

Side pocket detail. Cool "arrow" construction.

Hem (handstitched?). Note big honking fabric defect.

And another by the knee.

As you can see these pants are totally unimproved; they don't even have back pockets let alone back pocket rivets. I wonder if this pair is a descendent of the east-coast made, unreinforced, pre-denim-dungarees work pants that Mike refers to in his book.

[Sansome1877]

Cool pants mtchfrnk, I found a wool piece of pant that dates before 1910, it uses that same triangle stitch, that your pants have,on the pocket corners. Your pant has belt loops and from our research so far, anything having belt loops dates after1900? BTW lots of other companies used to make denim pants before 1873. My wife Charla found an ad from 1859 saying they made heavy denim overalls, in San Francisco.

[eltopo]

Here are some photos of the A.B. Elfelts. The vintage henley and suspenders are from Mister Freedom.

[eltopo]

Some more photos of the A.B. Elfelts. It was incredible meeting both Mike's while in LA. Seeing the originals in Mikes book and earlier in this thread I couldn't resist picking up these amazing jeans. Mike did a perfect job with them. Neustadter Bros. pants will arrive later today, thanks to seeing them on Mike and in the photos, I had to get a pair.

Suspenders are MF in the photos.

www.banditphotographer.com

[morse9443]

speechless pics eltopo

[eltopo]

Came home to this today!!! Now to pay off the credit card.

www.banditphotographer.com

[rnrswitch]

Officially jealous... again.

[SLAB]

argh, nice pick up eltopo, seriously jealous

[Rivet Head]

Nice pics and sick purchase El Topo!

[fardin]

great purchase, and wonderful pics, stunning as always sir

[Sansome1877]

It's been over 10 years since my last plane ride, I couldn't help but think that this trip to Japan, was a one way trip into the Pacific ocean( I don't like flying!!)

I had to pick up this jacket when we paid a visit to our friends shop, Hollywood

Ranch market in Tokyo. Here I am in front of vending machine number 7,999,999,999 I don't think you ever loose sight of a vending machine, anywhere in Tokyo. We walked for two hours in the rain trying to find the new LVC store. We finally found it tucked back in an ally way, I will post pictures on the LVC thread.

[Sansome1877]

I think it was entertainment that asked the question, does the original 201's from the 1890's have flimsy 2 piece buttons? I was able to see and photograph about 8 pairs of 201's from the 1890's, while I was in Japan(they all had those flimsy 2 piece buttons just like the LVC repros)

[SLAB]

ah Japan, have fun Sansome (shouldn't be too difficult )

[entertainment!]

I think it was entertainment that asked the question, does the original 201's from the 1890's have flimsy 2 piece buttons? I was able to see and photograph about 8 pairs of 201's from the 1890's, while I was in Japan(they all had those flimsy 2 piece buttons just like the LVC repros)

I was asking about the Knappaves and the early duck repros with the sewn on buttons, but it is reassuring to hear that the 201s have the two piece buttons. Even though the 201s might have had cheaper, lower quality buttons, it is nice to know there is a precedent for the flimsy two piece ones. I'd love to see the pictures.

[Sansome1877]

ah Japan, have fun Sansome (shouldn't be too difficult )

Had loads of fun slab, sounds like you have been to Japan? Still cant figure out how everyone stays so thin, with all that amazing food(i was thinking the lack of cheese and dairy products?) Entertainment I can post some suspender button pictures.

[SLAB]

i would assume its because of their amazing food they stay so thin.

yeah, been there myself a couple of times visiting the in-laws; always an amazing experience visiting Japan

cheers

[Sansome1877]

Here is one of those flimsy suspender buttons from what looks to be a piece of 1891 to 1892 Levi 201. I don't have permission to show the pocket bag stamp, but the stamp on the pocket matches a Levi ad from 1892. Another thing of interest is, this piece has a double needle yolk stitch. I have a half pair of 201's from 1890 to 91 and it has a single needle yolk stitch. It would seem that both 201's and 501's moved to a double needle yolk stitch in 1891 or 92? Btw slab I see you now live in shitville?

[Dr_Heech]

Just want to say great photos and cool info from you, Mike.

Just to think of my years spent in a time when nobody ever gave out any info on Levis. Ever .

Why cant you show the pocket bag print?

.

[entertainment!]

Thanks for the pictures of the suspender buttons, Mike! I always thought that two piece construction was a modern invention.

[Sansome1877]

Just want to say great photos and cool info from you, Mike.

Just to think of my years spent in a time when nobody ever gave out any info on Levis. Ever .

Why cant you show the pocket bag print?

.

Heech the people that let me photograph their collections, only want me to show it in the next book, not on sufu. I think your going to be happy when you see all of the Levi information that we have now, I am close to having the first 20 years of Levi clothing figured out.

[rnrswitch]

I can't wait for the second book. When do you expect to release it? have you already started working on it?

[Sansome1877]

I can't wait for the second book. When do you expect to release it? have you already started working on it?

We have been working on the next book for the last 7 months, it should be out the middle of next year.

[roy6]

A reminder:

Mike's having a signing of Jeans of the Old West this Saturday at Unionmade in San Francisco.

Any Bay Area sufuers going to attend, besides me? I'll have my camera along, in case anybody wears anything good...

[SLAB]

We have been working on the next book for the last 7 months, it should be out the middle of next year.

something to look forward to!

[Sansome1877]

A reminder:

Mike's having a signing of Jeans of the Old West this Sunday at Unionmade in San Francisco.

Any Bay Area sufuers going to attend, besides me? I'll have my camera along, in case anybody wears anything good...

I am pretty sure it was this Saturday night Roy, I don't think Union Made closes, open 24 hours?