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Kid took a photo of me on pano mode. Ues/Tezo/Full Count

@AlientoyWorkmachine still a big fan of the UES jacket? Who remembers this t-shirt? 😅

Sorry for the long silence- personal and work life have been extremely busy. Reopening the Stores is going to be later than I'd hoped, aiming for end of September but it may spill over into early October. However, AW24 production is coming through nicely, and going to be a really good one. I'm in the UK at the moment taking care of that, and tidying up some personal things. An early customer, Steven Ramm, contacted me recently about finding a new pair of 129s to replace the pair that he bought a decade ago. He's now the owner of some Mars Black dyed ones, here are his 10 year old logwoods: "I have a new digital back for my Hasselblad 500 c/m and this was its first outing, so I was just getting to grips with it. Maybe that's why the shot of the front of the jeans isn't sharp! Not really sure how that happened!" The front shot's my favourite 🙂

This may be of interest to some you: https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=selfedge/editorial/readEditorial&editorial_id=905

Thank you @vIGGiou riou. Pants are 1942, bought them 2009 or 2010. Like all my pants it’s full of ink splatters. On jeans I don’t mind it. But on these I didn’t like it. So decided to draw a anchor pattern on them. To pull the attention away. A t least 8 yrs ago allready, start to wear off . But I still enjoy wearing them. Kinda a vintage pair. I peeled off the Carhartt patch from the jacket. One day I realized I was wearing a bib, sweater, hat, and vest all Carhartt. A bit to much branding for my taste. So off the came

Many thanks for this, those Tshirts were indeed by Dorrit Dekk, an old family friend who died in 2014, a few years after doing the drawings for me. They were based on descriptions in Jorge Luis Borges' Book of Imaginary Beings. I have the originals, and when I was packing up the studio a few weeks ago I found some of the original set of Tshirts, I'll reexamine and may get them up on the Stores when we reopen (feel free to email me if you'd like more information). Dorrit drew these particular illustrations for these Tshirts, specially, so there aren't any prints available. I also did a series of mugs, which were really nice. Here are a few photos:

Para, Carhartt, cheap t shirt, buzz Dickson, vans

Went with something different from chinos and denim. Just came in today. Present to me for the weight loss. Phigvel canvas painter pants in off white color. Buttons are pretty cool.They fit kind of baggy but that’s what Phigvel is known for in their carpenter pants offerings. Can’t fit cellphone in side carpenter pocket so only pens/pencils can fit for now. Size 3.

That was quick, Naoki ships lightning fast! Pants Avenue rules. Eternal 811 in size 36 (pre-soak but no intention of soaking just yet) Waist 37.00 F Rise 12.25 R Rise17.00 Thigh 13,75 Knee 9.75 LO 9.00 Inseam 37.00 Forgot how good Eternal denim is. Very TFH 3XXX-esque.

If a picture could embody much of what I personally don’t find appealing about denim community/culture - explicitly and implicitly - this is one of them. Perhaps it’s the case here, but the only way I would/have worn a fit like that is if I were riding a motorcycle (long since sold), and even then I’m wearing leather up top, not denim. I get that some people love it - more power to them.

So, I didn’t fade these. I found them on Grailed, and thought that I should post them for a reference of how these fade. I did do quite a few seam repairs to make the stable and wearable. Old Full Count flare/low rise boot cut.

(cross-post from Denime thread) A hint of autumn in the air this morning here, so the boots went back on! Toys McCoy Denime Red Wing

failing to blend in as usual… tcb / vintage / r-mocs

Ahahaha I'll have to dig mine up, but I think it's a size Small, whereas I wear at least an XL these days 😂

I’ll throw my doubt in the ring. This sort of approach doesn’t seem much less phony, in the end, than just skipping the middle man and pulling out the sandpaper. (If the end result at least looked cool, that’d be something I guess, but on top of the absurdity of it all this sort of thing is just straight up ugly.)

The commitment to fades is undoubtedly admirable, but this sort of thing erks me the most about "fading denim." Fit—in my eyes—should be first; the fades come afterward. But when you are only trying to get the "coolest" fades, whatever that means, why would you buy a jacket that's way too tight and looks pretty ridiculous? It really just boils down to tight high contrast fadez, bruh? Not above, but throw in a chambray and a denim shirt underneath in +120-degree weather and 100% humidity to boot, and I gotta question your intelligence at this point. Rolling in mud, not washing the entire year while wearing them literally 24/7 is disgusting. We can ascertain they do not have a girlfriend around, I guess. SuFu has more distinguished tastes, but some people take it too far.

220XX-47 fit At the very slimmest of the spectrum of fits for me, but comfortable nonetheless. Wearing the FC 0105’s immediately prior to this pair probably emphasised that!

Undercover/Full Count/Birkenstock

It's very rare that I find a pair of jeans chainstitched to my exact inseam but these MF are my personal pot o gold. Vtg denim RR cap Batman 251 Tee Vtg painted leather belt Turquoise and Coral blanket pin New to me Mister Freedom Outlaw in Cone Western work boots w/ rope embroidery

JOHNG MUNG DENIM

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

Focusing is finicky sticking the CFV digital backs on a 500 c/m - the split level finder he's used to isn't going to be nearly as solid as using the screen/magnification. I'm surprised he didn't check in image review, too easy not to on that! That pair looks fully loved and lived in though!

^ No, I would bet the creasing in the body is from lots of time sitting on a motorcycle

Thank you! and indeed! These are already out there, the second set of Elephant Ear backpacks, satchels, and pouches- these in dyed canvas for SS24. They came out beautifully. But since you mention it, one of the things bubbling away at the moment is a considerable expansion of this project, into a full new brand designed and produced by me and my good friend (and ex-student from a long time ago), Robert Newman of Middle Distance. Working sits outside our own brands, and is looking really exciting- it's a coming together of my work with Tender and Rob's with Middle Distance and at technical and street-focussed places including Massimo Osti Studio, Stone Island, Maharishi and Supreme. More to come over the next few months, we're in fairly early stages, but there's a little more to see at @working.clothing

^ yea, I actually find the long fit of it quite useful, esp since I am not a fan of tucking in shirts. I could nitpick about the quality - the panels have some a few skips/runs in the linen denim actually as one might find in some seconds quality, but for being yet another denim(ish) jacket it’s a unique spot in the wardrobe and just really comfortable. Curiously, the jacket seems a shade lighter than the jeans which do not have any skips that I’ve noticed, so I wonder if it was a different batch. Even with the flaws in the denim I’m overall quite pleased with it. I’ve never found unlined denim jackets the most comfortable with short sleeves, and this one changes that. Sort of feels more like a light flannel shirt or something. I’m curious to see how it fades and if I fade the jeans or the jacket more. I’m not sure how much wear either will get after a month or so from now, but both are the best summer pieces I’ve found.

Runabout x Ed Hardy

Would be a pleasure to get a deal over here for me, I am looking for this for ages.

The Self Edge IMA READ Zine - #2 Introducing the #2 Self Edge IMA READ Zine featuring TOYO ENTERPRISE. Toyo is the Japanese company which brings you Buzz Rickson, Sugar Cane, Mister Freedom, Whitesville, Sun Surf, Star of Hollywood, & the William Gibson collection. We’ve got rare images, interviews with Tom Tanaka of TOYO, Christophe Loiron of Mister Freedom, and super-fan James Stavrinides. These are full-color printed in Chicago and are available now for free at all six Self Edge locations and can be included in any online order upon request. You may also view the zine on the editorial page of our website: https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=selfedge/editorial/readEditorial&editorial_id=905 Production: Oscar Ojeda / https://www.instagram.com/oscarpaii/ Layout & Art: Erik Duran / https://www.instagram.com/nombredeusuariousual/ Interviews: Chris Zaldua / https://www.instagram.com/c__z__/ Concept & Direction: Kiya Babzani / https://www.instagram.com/selfedge/

No not in any reality. This just looks like bad fitting jacket. I'm not a fan of the style either but that's another thread. Any other material and that looks like total crap, being demin doesn't excuse the bad fit. I can understand the baggy look and having well defined creases but this isn't it.

To be completely fair...there are elements of this that I like - not necessarily the look itself but the commitment to it.

Well, there are certainly people out there liking this fit. But probably not many from Sufu

Greetings from Mount Trebevic, Sarajevo Sweltering hot here, glad of the cooler mountain respite Star of Hollywood / Freewheelers / Buckweat

Just got a dead-stock pair of 1954ZXX, the date on the tag is 4309, so assuming 2009 Just a couple of things are throwing me off, first is the 1996 date on the flasher The back of the waist button is blank No pocket bag print Everything else checks out on them and they smell old Thoughts anyone, or does anyone still have a pair from this period to compare with mine?

Pre-soak After initial wash (30 °C machine wash)

Pictures of the jeans

runabout brander Runabout sample jeans Nicks boots

I hope he brings back some of the cashmere products such as the KR-SM1 shemaugh. I also would like to see the lightweight cashmere toque KR-H3 make a comeback! Errolson calls it a beanie, but as he is a Canadian he should know it's a toque!!!!!!!

They make circular / round pins too.

That’s a nice solution. Maybe I’m an outlier - I’ve never once had an issue with the standard pins. Maybe that’s due to the snug waist on my 129s but on my 900 jackets (x2) I’ve not had an issue either. I guess if it ever does come up I’ll think about this method.

Was getting really tired of the cotter pins pulling through on my jeans + jacket (lost one fancy button and had at least a couple very close calls)—and, besides, it only seemed like a matter of time before the one on the jeans started poking holes in my tucked shirts—so I bought a bag of 1/2” brass key rings to use in stead They seem to work well and they’re not too eye grabbing when the jacket’s open, would def. recommend for one and all

I have a pair of 132d size 2 and had to dart the waist to get them to fit me without a belt… the waist was at least 31” before taking it in. I’d expect the same model in size 4 to be far too large to wear, especially if you normally take a size 1. For reference, i am a 29-30 in all other brands.

Spent the second half of this week dyeing baby clothes for a new niece. They’re all cotton. I don’t often dye with cellulose fibers because it’s such an extra hassle—but the flip side of this is that, when I do, I tend to throw as much in there as I can Had a cotton bandana laying around for who knows how long (I think it shipped w/ something or other from the Trestle Shop)…now it’s pink Tannic acid -> alum + lots of soda ash -> ground cochineal

Sugar Cane 1947

My Warehouse 1000 and 1001

yes, Bronson USN t shirts have the holes on both sides. The holes are used for hanging them on threads to try.

BURGUS PLUS LOT 700