Belts

[lance]

Hey Sriracha - That belt is a beauty! Great leather, nice buckle. I'm gonna have to get this guy's contact info. Wonder if he will stitch the parallel grooves in the leather?

[mikecch]

Hey Mike, what do you think of Obenauf's oil (not the LP) for these applications that you're recommending neatsfoot/horse/emu oil for?

Also I'd still love to buy some of your conditioner, but it's a bit expensive for me at the moment!

The only experience I've had with Obenauf's was second hand through a friend - he said it "wasn't too bad". It did darken his leather a little bit more than the horse oil he usually uses though, and in the end he stuck to using Mustang Paste instead.

Having a read through their Material Safety Data Sheet for the oil, it seems like there's a bit of water and beeswax in the mixture, so it makes me wonder how much of the mixture is actually oil?

And, what kind of oil/s?

I don't have enough info. to recommend it as a primary leather 'food', sorry

I would still recommend a high quality, pure animal fat as a 'first line' agent so to speak.

(Can use any good source: I've heard of people using bear fat, sheep fat/lanolin/tallow, cod oil, etc.)

To return the bandanna favour I owe you, I can send you a small block of Emu wax (I only have a wee bit left) for free, I'll just charge you shipping fees?

[the-monkey]

Terry Dear belt from the group order. 2-3 months of wear

[aaronxxx]

that second KC buckle is my favorite buckle i've ever owned. it's perfect.

[Ord]

Question for anyone who bought it: How much was the group order oak tanned belt from Terry Dear?

[Ord]

Question about the various oils:

wikipedia (ok, not really the animal fats gospel, but often quite accurate on various topics) reports it to be 70% unsaturated fats, a vast majority of which is oleic acid.

I remember having read on leathercraftsmen forums that qualities of olive oil are highly praised by some, and i was wondering if anyone here has ever tried it on his wallet/belt/leatherpatch

My main concern with that would be rancidity and consequent deterioration (probably just olfactory) of the leather that absorbed it.

Does anyone here have experiences to share in regards of vegetable oil mixes to soften and enrich leather goods?

[m3guy]

I got my belt from unlucky today.

Sorry for the phone pic but I'm too poor for a digital camera.

[mikecch]

Question for anyone who bought it: How much was the group order oak tanned belt from Terry Dear?

About $75 shipped.

Question about the various oils:

wikipedia (ok, not really the animal fats gospel, but often quite accurate on various topics) reports it to be 70% unsaturated fats, a vast majority of which is oleic acid.

I remember having read on leathercraftsmen forums that qualities of olive oil are highly praised by some, and i was wondering if anyone here has ever tried it on his wallet/belt/leatherpatch

My main concern with that would be rancidity and consequent deterioration (probably just olfactory) of the leather that absorbed it.

Does anyone here have experiences to share in regards of vegetable oil mixes to soften and enrich leather goods?

I've tried olive oil and macadamia oil before - doesn't really penetrate as well as the animal oils.

But I like how the macadamia oil makes the leather buttery soft (I'm thinking of making a leather cream with macadamia oil actually...)

But IMO vegetable oils aren't substitutes for animal oils - I'd only use them if I have nothing else available.

I got my belt from unlucky today.

Sorry for the phone pic but I'm too poor for a digital camera.

Very nice - I see you have the 'random' patterned Damascus?

How do you like the leather?

I'll do a full "The Joe Hill" project introduction when I get it - any day now

[m3guy]

This is my first experience a natural leather item. It's very heavy compared to any of my other belts. Fit is perfect. I love the way the belt buckle looks and feels. I'm unable to describe the leather really but I love it. How to I apply the wax that came with it? Next on my list will probably be a wallet.

[tropicalbird]

I can appreciate the leather even from that grainy picture. Gee, that buckle came out dark almost looks like a damascus "print". Can't wait for macro's

[mikecch]

Another lucky dude received his The Joe Hill (I think mine will arrive late next week, can't wait...):

**

This is my first experience a natural leather item. It's very heavy compared to any of my other belts. Fit is perfect. I love the way the belt buckle looks and feels. I'm unable to describe the leather really but I love it. How to I apply the wax that came with it? Next on my list will probably be a wallet.

I think Scott made a oil and wax based cream - just rub a layer in and let it dry when you feel the need to do so!

[corporalclegg]

Just landed, the craftsmanship and leather are both amazing.

[matera]

Hey, I was thinking about getting a belt blank from Tandy Leather Factory. They have two types: "natural cowhide" and "craftsman". Which one should I get and what is the difference?

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Leather-Belts-Leather-Straps/Leather-Belts-Leather-Straps.aspx

[m3guy]

I think Scott made a oil and wax based cream - just rub a layer in and let it dry when you feel the need to do so!

Thanks mike, I'll probably do that on sunday.

It's good to see other people are receiving their belts too. They look beautiful.

[meschan]

nice joe hill belt, hope to see more pictures and introduction on it

[tropicalbird]

Hey, I was thinking about getting a belt blank from Tandy Leather Factory. They have two types: "natural cowhide" and "craftsman". Which one should I get and what is the difference?

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Leather-Belts-Leather-Straps/Leather-Belts-Leather-Straps.aspx

Well both are pretty much the same entry-level belt blanks you can find. However "natural cowhide" is 8-9oz whereas "craftsman" thickness is unknown. Keep in mind these blanks are nowhere near the quality we're used to on this forum.

[mikecch]

Just landed, the craftsmanship and leather are both amazing.

Haha, awesome, I think these images are enough for the spill.

Here goes, Part I of the intro...(photos by Scott himself)

A few months ago, I became very curious about how the Japanese artisan brands process their high-end leathers, and why it is so different from the stuff that everybody else uses even when the leathers come from the same tanneries.

I thus began a conversation with Scott (a.k.a. Unlucky) of Don't Mourne, Organize! about the possibility of making a North American belt that will rival the likes of Red Moon, The Flat Head, Kawatako, etc in terms of the leather, the hardware, the stitching and all the little details in constructing a belt.

We eventually learned that although the Japanese oftentimes purchsed high quality saddle/skirting leather from the top US tanneries (or even 'wet' hides) much like many of our respected belt makers, one important difference lies in how the Japanese workshops process this very raw leather into something very “bridle”-like with a magnificent hand and good weight.

The differences in hardware (the higher-end Japanese makes utilize hand-forged buckles, etc) and attention to detail (stitch material, buckle-fold design, edge burnish, etc) were somewhat more apparent at times.

With that in mind, we began a project to create a top quality North American work-belt for leather-freaks...

Firstly, the leather.

We debated on the merits of different types of leather – would it be best to use a skirting leather (where maximum grain & patina development is possible, but the leather is lighter and more dry to begin with), a harness leather (strong and full of oils, but doesn't come in natural), or a bridle leather (smooth and oily, but North American bridle usually lack character)?

Much brainstorming ensued and Scott bought in several sample hides, including interesting pieces from Wickett & Craig, Moser and Thoroughbred.

In the end, we took a page from the Japanese craftsmen's book and decided to use a custom 15~17 oz Moser natural skirting leather which had been expertly hand-stuffed by Mr. Moser...a truly beautiful leather with a solid body, good weight and an amazing texture!

Secondly, the hardware.

I had noticed that brands like Samurai, Dolce Vita, etc tended to use buckles that were much, well, bigger than Western makes. I asked Scott whether it would be possible to also give the old buckle a nice upgrade...

Again, much brainstorming followed – we went through some US hardware suppliers' catalogs, inquired at a few different foundries, consulted with Jeff Decker (master buckle maker), and thought about different materials to use.

Scott eventually found a husband & wife team of Damascus steel makers (Alabama Damascus), and it was decided that Scott will hand-make some clip buckles for the project from Damascus billets of various patterns!

Everything from the slight curve created by Scott's own 4 tonne arbor press to the hand-cut edges show the love and care Scott has put into these buckles (big thanks goes to Mr. Decker as well).

The steel was then finished so that it will age beautifully with the leather.

An early prototype:

Thirdly, the stitching.

For this belt, it was suggested that an upgrade from the usual poly or linen threads were due.

Scott has hand-made some sinew threads from the tendons of wild Montana mule deers.

This stuff is amazing, gram for gram stronger than most steel.

And to complement the stitching at the buckle fold, hand-hammered copper rivets have been added to for central reinforcement.

Finally, for dessert, we have small tins of home-made leather condition made by Scott, based on recipes gathered from saddle-makers and leather experts.

Feeling the love yet?

Some yeah, "The Joe Hill" belt...I haven't got mine yet though

[mikecch]

Oh, and we had a few different tip finishes for everyone to choose from:

Bonus pics, Scott's workshop:

[Pi-tol]

can't wait until i get my Joe Hill

How many belts did scott end up making?

[mikecch]

Edit: 25 belts made.

It's been a very successful project - a big thank you to all the participants

And thanks to the number of participants, the price of the belt ended up being very, very reasonable considering the product we're getting!

Almost time to plan the next group buy - perhaps an Asian craftsman or workshop this time?

Ideas and suggestions welcome, I'm kinda running blank in the cortex at the moment regarding general details.

The leather is also a problem - the only East Asian tannery that I know produces good quality veg tan is Tochigi...

I've heard there are a couple of tanneries in China that also does it, but I'm uncertain in regards to the quality.

[gregoire13]

[meschan]

^ how much did the belt cost?

[BlueOctoberFan]

I got a couple of belts in the mail a couple of days ago:

my full collection: ALD, Terry Dear, and two from Scott Willis with Damascus steel buckles

The thicknesses...

A nice touch inside the buckles:

I had the black made in addition to the natural one, just because I like the buckles so much that I wanted a black belt with one as well. It's thicker than the natural, but I've encountered some problems with that added thickness which Scott is nice enough to re-work for me.

[mikecch]

^ how much did the belt cost?

The Joe Hill project belt was $100 shipped worldwide.

[akiyama71]

Are the belts still available or am I too late for The Joe Hill project belt?

[mikecch]

^ 'Officially' the project has closed (the participants list was finalised a month ago), but I'm sure you'll be able to work something out with Scott. Best to contact him directly.

[akiyama71]

How do I contact him?

[mikecch]

^ I'll send you a PM very soon.

[madstaxbro]

I envy all you Joe Hill belt owners. Seriously if you think about selling a 30" - 32" I am ready to make offers.

[Ord]

For all you japaneseleatherophiles out there, i've got an unopened copy of the "Japanese Leather Complete Book" for sale

A bit of a shameless plug, but definitely in-topic, i hope this message doesn't bother anyone

18 US dollars shipped anywhere in the world

here are some pictures of front, back and contents page

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac174/Ordens/Japmag/DSC03259.jpg

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac174/Ordens/Japmag/DSC03260.jpg

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac174/Ordens/Japmag/DSC03257.jpg

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac174/Ordens/Japmag/DSC03258.jpg

All in japanese language (obviously) but plenty of pictures about leather production, tanning and craftsmanship along with many addresses of japanese leathercraftsmen