Vintage Denim?

[Sansome1877]

I thought I remembered something like you had never seen copper backed rivets on this model, could have remembered wrong?

[Dr_Heech]

7 hours ago, Sansome1877 said:

I thought I remembered something like you had never seen copper backed rivets on this model, could have remembered wrong?

I think seeing a back button stamp like E on a pair which would normally have aluminium backed rivets, but doesn't, is a little unusual. 

[Facini]

Man, have i scored today.

 I was browsing around some local ad sites and came across this beauty. From the label I knew this was good. But it’s full of surprises for me!

It has “O” buttons and shares many details with my 557xx from the same factory. Same buttons, same sleeve cuff construction (and the button adjusters on the back) - all common of the “O” factory. Yellow bartacking, meaning this is definitely one of the earlier ones.

the stitching is all over the place with the colormatching - two tone on one side, all yellow in the other. yellow in the collar and pockets and armhole, orange everywhere else.

seen also is my late 60s/early 70s Big E, which is more as to be expected. They also have vastly different silhouettes. This new one is way more boxy and more tight in the shoulders. Very 557 in the fit. Had it not had a label, I’d have called it a 557. I’m pretty sure this a transition model!

Stumped to find it. And at a bargain price.

Excuse the bad lighting throughout haha 

Edited February 24, 2022 by Facini

[Dr_Heech]

@Facini it is essentially a 557xx in all but label, bet those buttons are copper topped.

Re:difference in silhouette. Don't forget that the 557xx was the 'standard' in 1961, and the 558xx was the longer version. When they changed the label info from 557xx > 70505 and 558xx > 71205, around 66-68 they also seem to have lengthened the body of the standard model too, but this is never mentioned in vintage denim books.

Lovely example of a transitional model type 3. Good score!

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by Dr_Heech

[generic_guy]

Picked up this Big E shirt today, amazing condition given its probably 50 years old.

Too small for me sadly but still couldn't pass it up.

 

 

[Dr_Heech]

Bored so bumping my fav thread with some photos of a pair of 1922-1926 501XX (pics borrowed from lg) - the first model with added belt-loops. Only have photos of maybe 5 pairs of similar early 1920's 501's, including the pair in the 501xx book so they're not a common sight.

Lovely set of details- first belt loops were smaller/shorter, made from shirt-weight denim. Bullseye buttons on the fly and older style branded buttons on the waistband, a combination dating back to 1915, and pre 1926 tooled rivets too. Another early detail are the corner-cut back pocket corners, just under the exposed back pocket rivets (difficult to see in detail here). Although the waistband got a chain stitch sometime around 1915/17 the leg hem had to wait until 1927 to get one , as evidenced by the unravelled hem on this pair. Anyway, carry on...

 

 

 

 

Edited September 2, 2022 by Dr_Heech
To add more pics :)

[scooby]

Lovely 

[Dr_Heech]

Random bump of my favourite thread. 

Small button 506XX, but with branded buttons so c.1927-1933. The pocket flap stitching is just drool-worthy imo.

 

[Dr_Heech]

And while we're on the subject, here's  another wonky stitched pocket flap - 

 

[Flash]

Lovely fade to the cotton thread on that first one , almost white 

[Dr_Heech]

On 8/27/2022 at 4:11 PM, Flash said:

Lovely fade to the cotton thread on that first one , almost white 

Thanks mate, yes it's very unique.

What l love about these old single stitched 506xx with the pocket flaps in particular, is the way the denim edge isn't angular or round, but a mixture of both. This uneven/irregular edge combined with the wonky single stitch just gives me goosebumps!

As the 1930's progressed it seems they became more angular even though they were single stitched. They have a uniqueness about them that's similar imo to the wartime oddities where wonky stitching seems to be rife.

 

Edited September 24, 2022 by Dr_Heech

[Maynard Friedman]

43 minutes ago, Flash said:

Lovely fade to the cotton thread on that first one , almost white 

Almost certainly non-related but interestingly, I seem to remember the old LVC 1927 jeans used to have pale, almost white stitching.

[Dr_Heech]

On 8/27/2022 at 4:58 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Almost certainly non-related but interestingly, I seem to remember the old LVC 1927 jeans used to have pale, almost white stitching.

Yes it did apart from the bartacking on the beltloops iirc. But as usual it was polyester thread so it shined in the sun unlike the cotton on its vintage original. Another lvc opportunity missed..

Also l remember that my sz 34x36 measured 37x35 

 

Edited September 24, 2022 by Dr_Heech

[crownzip]

Hey Dr,

Great to hear from you. I may me mistaken, but did LVC Japan use all cotton thread on their denim? The thread on my LVC Japan 1937's is fading nicely and breaking in some places, very much like cotton thread..

[Dr_Heech]

4 minutes ago, crownzip said:

Hey Dr,

Great to hear from you. I may me mistaken, but did LVC Japan use all cotton thread on their denim? The thread on my LVC Japan 1937's is fading nicely and breaking in some places, very much like cotton thread..

I'm not sure tbh Grant, but there are a few peeps here who own Lvc japan jeans. Maybe put the query up on the lvc thread and see if you get lucky?

Could you post some pics up of your 37's?

 

[Graytrain]

3 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

And while we're on the subject, here's  another wonky stitched pocket flap - 

 

This wonky stitching is some of my favorite details on old, even repro, denim. Top of it all for me is S501XX back pockets. Irregular shapes of fabric with wonky stitching. It makes it very human, like a little fingerprint of the one who made it. 

[Dr_Heech]

2 minutes ago, Graytrain said:

This wonky stitching is some of my favorite details on old, even repro, denim. Top of it all for me is S501XX back pockets. Irregular shapes of fabric with wonky stitching. It makes it very human, like a little fingerprint of the one who made it. 

Absolutely agree with you there, although the WW2 stuff is more obvious - celebrated and well documented, the 'fingerprint' is more subtle on the 1920's and early 30's stuff. Still has that lovely organic human- hand made element about it though.

[istewi]

19 hours ago, Graytrain said:

This wonky stitching is some of my favorite details on old, even repro, denim. Top of it all for me is S501XX back pockets. Irregular shapes of fabric with wonky stitching. It makes it very human, like a little fingerprint of the one who made it. 

I think TCB did a nice job recreating the wonky pocket stitching on their 20s jacket. I really like the look 

[istewi]

An unissued WWII Diddy Bag I picked up a bit ago. The drawstring was sewn down by accident, so it wouldn’t close very well. That’s probably why it’s in such good condition. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Some good stuff can be seen here. The channel of the BerBerJin manager.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRJ5F4KDZmY6nrEk14B61pg

Edited August 30, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Dr_Heech]

On 8/30/2022 at 6:05 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Some good stuff can be seen here. The channel of the BerBerJin manager.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRJ5F4KDZmY6nrEk14B61pg

Watched the 1937 video - l have so many questions 

Really enjoyed the 66 model (part one) - can anybody help me find part two?

 

Edited September 1, 2022 by Dr_Heech
Spelling as usual

[Dr_Heech]

I know l keep spamming this thread with photos of other people's worn-in jeans, but couldn't pass up the opportunity to share this awesome pair of 501XX from circa 1926. Apart from the obvious patina from years working in hot, dry and dusty environments, the darker shadow on the waistband area suggests these were worn with a jacket/blouse for most of the time or is it just a belt shadow(?)

Just stunning imo...

 

 

(Photos taken from Hundredbuyers)

Edited September 1, 2022 by Dr_Heech
Spelling as usual

[bartlebyyphonics]

epic pair! thanks for sharing! the back of the knee is incredible and fade shadow intriguing: a faithful chore wearer perhaps?

[Dr_Heech]

10 minutes ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

epic pair! thanks for sharing! the back of the knee is incredible and fade shadow intriguing: a faithful chore wearer perhaps?

Yes my first thought was similar, with a jacket/blouse of the same era being short. But it also looks like a belt may have been used and maybe that's the reason (?) If it was a chore coat or longer garment, maybe that's the reason for the belt loops having faded (?)

 

[Graytrain]

Those are unreal. I agree here, the fade is very similar to cuff fades I have. I wouldn't ever guess that just simply covering an area would prevent so much fade. I think it just shows that exposure fade is more impactful than we think. 

 

I've always wondered, how do you get your hands on a pair of vintage jeans like this privately? Are there dealers or is it all auction based? 

[Dr_Heech]

13 minutes ago, Graytrain said:

I've always wondered, how do you get your hands on a pair of vintage jeans like this privately? Are there dealers or is it all auction based? 

Hundredbuyers are vintage dealers, the same as Berberjin or Marvins.

I think they solely hire professional  thrifters/pickers to go to various estate sales and barn/house clearances. Where these are advertised is a mystery however (?)

 

[Graytrain]

2 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Hundredbuyers are vintage dealers, the same as Berberjin or Marvins.

I think they solely hire professional  thrifters/pickers to go to various estate sales and barn/house clearances. Where these are advertised is a mystery however (?)

 

How interesting. It's so wild to see a regular supply of these pieces of history. 

[silencejoe]

All big and small e that call 66s  and one 80s 

Long leg R 54s~71s,

V stitch ~69s

8% 77s~79s 10% 80s~86s

 

Edited September 1, 2022 by silencejoe
.

[Dr_Heech]

@silencejoe 

Now that's just showing off!   

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'll take that W35 L33 deadstock pair