Pictures of making a pair of Jeans....

[andewhall]

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[sybaritical]

Quote:

so you actually run them up yourself? Haha! This just gets better.

--- Original message by sybaritical on Feb 3, 2006 03:20 PM

What?

what's not to understand? I found the fact that Andewhall runs his designs up on a machine himself doubly impressive when the designers I know only cut their patterns. They generally tend out contracts to manufacturers to do the cutting and sewing, even on small runs of protoypes.

[rabka]

if that looked easy...ahhh

sean aka adsurgo brace urself if ur ever going to get into that

ak

[haptronic]

ande

fantastic post, that you have been promising for a long time, [did witts supply the denim ],

i love my pair of grifters, can't wait for it to cool down so i can wear them again.

also would love to see the xtra heavy pair you made for yourself, which cut were they?

[Serge d Nimes]

What an awesome post. You have great attention to detail!

Carpe Denim! (not the jean brand silly!)

[andewhall]

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[andewhall]

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[adsurgo]

Quote:

Quote:

whered you get the patterns? or learn how to make them?

also, what kind of machine are you using?

--- Original message by adsurgo on Feb 3, 2006 03:03 PM

Hi Sean,

Patterns:

I did a Diploma of Fashion Design & Technology in 2000/2001. Its a three year Diploma, but I dropped out half way through the second year. For the Jeans Patterns I started out with a really basic generic, out of date (1970's) block they get you to develop at school. I developed my block off that, many, many changes. I have worked constantly on my Jeans block and patterns since 2001 and was only satisfied with them mid 2005. They probably went through at least 100 incarnations to get them where I wanted them to be.

Machines:

3 Thread overlocker, Consew. Probably made in 1950-1960. Always chugs away.

Plain sewer, Bernina 1970's minimatic.

Very simple and inexpensive machines that receive regular love and attention.

--- Original message by andewhall on Feb 5, 2006 08:40 PM

thanks a lot man. how would i go about figuring out how to do the cut outs for different sizes? like to keep proportion and what not. i can figure out how to do my size my not any others.

[jens]

WOW, the visualisation of the whole jeans making process is really good with these pictures!

You so inspired me to go and make a new pair of jeans myself and take the pictures you've taken.. it just looks very professional! And I CAN believe it only takes you 3 to 4 hours, in production they do a pair of quality jeans in 20 minutes (yes with 20 people and professional machines (btw: I got a 70ies bernina too, it rocks, take care with the sharp needles though, they can break the yarns of the fabric, blunt needles just push the yarns aside more but require stronger machines that is true -and you only really see it if there's a lot of tension on the seam, like outer leg seams-)) what I CAN'T believe is the load of time, practise and effort it must have took you to get to this point.. I can do a pair of jeans in 3-4 days, cutting to wearing, not hours. And I'm 3 patterns down the road.

D*mn I just want to go make jeans now!!!

BTW: where are you getting your fabric? I guess you buy larger quantities (I make one pair everytime) and are you using narrow loom selvage denim too? I find getting good fabric the harderst part...

In a nutshell: MUCH RESPECT!

BBTW: just now saw you got the extansion plate for your bernina too! I also got it, did you ever work with the embroidery presser-foot and do you have a knee-lever on your machine? My favo! Love the retro ironing-board cover too..

Edited by jens on Feb 6, 2006 at 11:43 AM

[dunkin deeznuts]

very nice

good luck going forward....hope to hear big things from you

www.wellbred.org

[andrewfuncrew]

i asked you about purchasing a pair of your jeans a while ago

and you never got back to me

You've got nothing but hatred!

[KEERST]

What a great post!

Everyone can see how much effort it takes to make a pair of jeans...

It looks like he's using a home single needle machine instead of an industrial single needle...

Sewing denim on a home machine is next to impossible...

Without the heat from the oil run machine, it usually can't go through heavy denim...

so...very nice job on the jeans...the photos are superb.

[frideswide]

Not to hijack the thread, but on the subject of bespoke (or at least custom) jeans, for those of you in Japan, there is a place down in Takamatsu (Kagawa-ken in Shikoku -- a centre of traditional indigo dying), which will run up custom-made jeans for you. You can pick the type of denim, the buttons, rivets, type of thread used for contrast stitching, type of patch, etc.

I plan to check it out in June when I'm next down in that neck of the woods:

http://www.d26ya.com/

.

[aitsuka]

this thread really sums up superfuture, by far the impressive thread.

will you get a webshop up? looking to buy some of your jeans.

-I felt good times come, i thought they stay

angels came, but they left today.

hotel motel its hot in hell

now i am left with no home-

[andewhall]

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[andewhall]

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[showbiz00ditc]

k so ande i dont think youve listed a price yet.

i think i speak for superfuture when i say

How much are the jeans?

[andewhall]

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[showbiz00ditc]

thank you sir. i will get at you when the finances rise. prolly summertime

[M.O.A]

buy this mans jeans, they are fantastic....i want a pair too.

F**K HYPE

solecollector.com

getlifted.net

overstand.net

[andewhall]

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[Selegna]

YOU SEE THAT KIDS! FROM THE GROUND UP..

RESPECT.

HOPE YOU GET IT LATER

[show_N_pruv]

are those selvedge? j/k.... awesome job and good luck.

I come fresher than a moist towelette

[E rocking]

Have to say that I have had many pairs of ande whall's

They rule.

Rock on

[M.O.A]

yeah i still need to get a apir for myself

F**K HYPE

solecollector.com

getlifted.net

overstand.net

[andewhall]

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[Handlethevibe]

does anyone have any worn in andewhalls?

[SENDkylHISPASSWORD]

Andewhall, Props to you man for making things happen...

Nice and clean and look excellent. Some suggestions though, Which are all in the branding department:

1)I don't know about others, but to me the pocket stiching is akward. That is a hard department though because I have never really been satisfied with anything other than Levi's branding. Perhaps you should leave them off or go for something simpler. This is just my opinion, and other people might like it however.

2)The labels you have don't seem to fit with your jeans. Here you are producing these awesome jeans yet the black labels on the back of the waist and the coin pocket look like they belong to PACO,EXCO etc. To me you are degrading your high quality product with those labels. The Patch isn't bad, however looks very generic to me. I think some simple more descrete trademarks would be cool. For example a green or turquoise or whatever colour rivet, perhaps some patterend pockets/lining ala Leroy Jenkins etc.

Once again man, no disrespect and much respect, just some suggestions to you based on my opinions.

Any plans for selvage? Any plans for a bigger op and to get your brand out there?

With that said, still PM me a price.

my favourite things

http://mfthings.blogspot.com/

Edited by SENDkylHISPASSWORD on Feb 16, 2006 at 03:03 PM

Edited by SENDkylHISPASSWORD on Feb 16, 2006 at 03:04 PM

[cant_sleep]

i agree, the pocket stitching is a little too much and too geometrical. otherwise awesome jeans. very inspirational thread too, i gotta try my hand at that now. im sure its fun as hell and finally seeing the finished product would be a kick

[cant_sleep]

maybe you could just use your actual signature for the pocket stitching, that might look cool. or write the aw in cursive along the bottom