so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[mizanation]

making denim can be very dangerous.

the box came with a very handy piece of paper with lots of first aid tips.

i never knew there were so many ways to induce vomiting. i only use one method and it's not on the list.

[mizanation]

back to riveting.

you place the jeans in the riveter . . .

give it a good hard kick . . .

and you're done . . .

[mizanation]

notice how the tabs for the hidden pocket rivets point inwards. he does this so they don't peek out on the sides of the pockets.

if he doesn't do that, it looks crappy like this:

if you bring the tabs in a little . . .

it looks much better.

[Christmas In A Submarine.]

woah woah woah. sorry to get too far off topic, but the address on that is a block or two from where I used to work. When I worked at my old firm I frequented the Weatherly building as they were the most easily walkable place to find a DHL dropbox. The building is really very beautiful:

sorry to run off topic. I just like the idea of that old medkit making its way from The Weatherly all the way to Okinawa and into the hands of kuniyoshi-san.

[Bijan]

This thread destroys all others; Chuck Norris is its bitch.

[mizanation]

sorry to run off topic. I just like the idea of that old medkit making its way from The Weatherly all the way to Okinawa and into the hands of kuniyoshi-san.

wow, what a small world!

[snuff_daddy]

awesome updates keep it up

[lenn]

it's so cool to finally know how hidden rivets are placed the right way... i'm pretty sure everybody reading this thread learns some new stuff. btw miz, did you tell kuniyoshi-san about all the positive replies on your thread?

[who8mahrice]

^Yea, I always wondered how they're attached. Very informative thread, miz. It only reaffirms my love for denim.

[mizanation]

it's so cool to finally know how hidden rivets are placed the right way... i'm pretty sure everybody reading this thread learns some new stuff. btw miz, did you tell kuniyoshi-san about all the positive replies on your thread?

yeah, i showed him all the feedback and he is very flattered and happy.

[Navaro]

i read every single post from page 1 and im jealous that i dont know anybody here

char12345678910

[mizanation]

time to sew the pockets onto the back.

kuniyoshi-san has a foot fetish. well, only for sewing machine feet. he has a nice collection of different feet. each one does a different job.

for this job, he will use the one on the right. it is smaller so it can rest easily onto the edge of the pocket. however, the disadvantage is that it has less traction, so using this foot requires more pushing pressure from the seamster.

changes are made with a screwdriver.

[mizanation]

sewing ensues...

now, the outside is done.

[mizanation]

now, for the inner seam. vintage jeans and places like warehouse like to keep the inner seam as close to the outer seam as possible. this means that both seams hug the tag for the hidden pocket rivets.

however, kuniyoshi-san prefers to make the inner seam start a little bit wider and swoop inwards. he likes the aesthetic of the curve.

his inner seam starts a little wider:

[mizanation]

now, let's examine the anatomy of the back pocket seams. notice how the inner seam curves slightly inwards giving the pocket more of a contoured look.

this part of the pocket requires heavier thread.

you can use lighter thread here. a lighter thread also contributes to the 3D look that kuniyoshi-san is always looking for.

[mizanation]

maximum puckering happens at a distance of 6 millimeters between the inside and outside seams. you can go to 5 millimeters if necessary, but 7 millimeters is a little too much for kuniyoshi-san's taste. he's been doing this so long that he can tell the difference between millimeters using only his eye.

[mizanation]

he also likes to add extra stitching at the stress point--near the corner of the pocket--for durability.

['lejandro]

i request this topic to be of everyones posts and be stickied.

[ulu]

I am literally drooling over this thread...

[Scaught]

It's amazing to look at some of the jeans I own and see how many of the same techniques they use.

[anthonyoj]

this has been an amazing read, im excited to see your pair

[G!zM() 17]

I'm sure by the time Miz got his pair done he would be able to publish a book on jeans crafting....call it a guidebook for SUFU'ers or something. Well, at least I'm pretty sure I can use this thread to convince the lady next time I'm buying a $200+ piece of garment.

[dandandan]

amazing posts! subscribed and +rep!

[dralfonzo]

i never realized the detail about the raised surface between stitching on the belt loops, and on that pocket obviously on the last page. very nice little details. keep up the great photos.

[greasypeanut]

reading all this makes me want to try and make a pair of jeans lol

[eightfour]

Someone needs to archive this in the denim wiki after miz gets his jeans.

[artisanquality]

Wow what an amazing thread!

If everything was made with such craftsmanship and pride the world would be a better place. And a bit more expensive...

[mizanation]

^^^ maybe more expensive, but things would last longer, things would have more value, more quality, more beauty.

[mizanation]

ok, continuing with our story.

we took a little coffee break. in japan, they sell these tiny canned coffees which are like crack in a can. anyways, the latest canned coffee craze is starbuck's double shot. i am not sure if they have this in the states, or if even it has the same taste, as the ones in japan are made in cooperation with suntory company.

[mizanation]

now it's time to lap seam the yoke. this brother machine is considered one of the best machines for this job.

for the yoke, you need a special attachment that is larger that the usual lap seam folder.