The Fit versus The Brand

[jake431]

I've been interested in denim for a while now - at least 7 years (I'm 33 now, what can I say, late bloomer), and after being into this for a while, I have a question I am curious to hear others answer to. I started out with the more reproish cuts, but have made my way towards more modern cuts with quality fabrics.

There seems to be a constant struggle for me - I love the passion and detail that goes into most Japanese denim brands, but the fit never works for me. PBJ, Sugarcane, I've tried the gamut and none fit me as well as Nudies do. And as much as I love the denim and feel of the Japanese brands, if I'm honest about what fits me, I always come back to non-Japanese companies. Perhaps it's because I'm 5'11" and weigh 200 lbs with a 34 waist - sufu fit jeans even if they fit looks ridiculous on me, I look like a triangle, which is not a flattering look. I can do skinny fits, but not tight. Nudie seems to fall in that range predictably, but other jeans, not so much.

So where do you guys fall - brand or fit? For me, more and more lately, the answer is fit.

As a separate question - if you all know about some Japanese jeans that fit Nudie-ish (RRDS, AVG Joe) , let a brotha know.

-Jake

[jubei]

I think it depends on the look you're going for. Given your size, I would think that you'd fit into the more "regular cut" jeans (i.e. the classic 501) better than a skinny weakling like me would. If you want something that looks a little more modern and sleek, then yeah I guess nudies would definitely do it. but I think that at your size, wearing something like Samurai 510's (which are regular cut) or Duckdiggers would look really good too.

I go back and forth a lot. When I get up in the morning, I try and think about where I'll be going or what I'll be doing in the day. if it's going to be running errands, doing chores, etc then I'll go with some repro denim. My rationale is that the Japense repros a) fade better are a little bit looser and therefore allow to move around more and c) can handle wear and tear a little bit better. If I'm going to a party or going to eat out some where nice, I usually go for the sleeker stuff.

[jake431]

I definitely don't mind trimmer cuts, but I can't fit in skinny ones. And I do like the 501's but they are baggier in the thigh then I need. I guess I tend towards the middle ground - skinnier than the classic cuts, but baggier than the typical sufu'er goes for. I too think about my day like that - and when I have a lot or running around to do, I tend towards less restrictive.

-Jake

[gramps]

Hm, interesting, because I actually have the opposite problem. I have a bit of a bigger waist as well (I wear usually a thirty two or a thirty one, but my true waist is probably a thirty three) and a lot japanese repo cuts have a leg opening that's too wide for me at that size. But I understand where you're coming from, trying to find a balance between construction and fit can be difficult. I wish I was one of those people who could make any cut look good.

[azn8oi]

jake-

try samurai 0500xx. they are mid-rise slim, but not skinny jean with tapered legs. I have big legs for my size and height, and it's pretty good on me. I sized down, but it may not work for you too. You might not have to size down; instead, try your true waist size first, if your legs are bigger. there are size measurements here

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=26&category_id=&manufacturer_id=10&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28

[Opie]

Or try one of the fuller cuts from kicking mule workshop? 1950 or 2010.

There you get the quality at least.

[jake431]

jake-

try samurai 0500xx. they are mid-rise slim, but not skinny jean with tapered legs. I have big legs for my size and height, and it's pretty good on me. I sized down, but it may not work for you too. You might not have to size down; instead, try your true waist size first, if your legs are bigger. there are size measurements here

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=26&category_id=&manufacturer_id=10&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28

Thanks for posting those - I've looked at them on BiG's website, I'm definitely interested. They look to be hella slubby ala PBJ-005's.

-Jake

[16steps]

i think im more of a fit type person because in reality buying a jean just because of where its made and its attention to detail doesnt necessarily mean that cut will suit your body. I think thats why i tend to gravitate towards the more fashion based cuts even though my overall aesthetic isnt so dressy. I can still appreciate the craftsmanship in a solidly made pair of denim, but if its not gonna look good on me, then whats the point of buying it?

[azn8oi]

0500xx are very slubby. it's hard to believe that something could be slubbier, but the pbj005 are actually slubbier, haha.

pbj005 wont work on us though. go with the texas cotton!

[blm14]

Nice topic.

Something that I always pity is when someone chooses a look based SOLELY on brand and not fit. Now I'll grant that everyone's definition varies on what constitutes a "good fit" and you'll never know (without asking) if someone's choice of clothes was based on fit or brand. But that said, I've seen people wearing things that I personally think fit fugly but of some hyped or high-end brand and I can't help but think to myself "He only bought that because of the label, even though it looks like crap on him."

Or even worse when they buy a crappy brand AND it fits bad (I've seen kids in my neighborhood wearing true religions 6 sizes too big, slouched to the knees and BACKWARDS).

My $0.02

To the OOP - you and I are sort of in the same boat. I am 6' 3" and wear a size 36 or 38 depending on the brand. I'm surprised you haven't been able to find any sugarcanes that you've liked. The only ones I have are non-standard-denim but I like the fit of all of them, especially the SC40400 (hawaii). Along the lines of the previous poster I also recommend S5000VX. Samurai has done a good job with that cut in making it look good on larger frames.

[jake431]

Generally speaking, my criteria for fit are that they must be trim through the thigh (I don't like that thigh flare common to 501's and 501 repro cuts) and that they shouldn't be too tapered. That's a problem unique to me as I carry most of my height in my torso - I rock a 30 inseam and yet stand 5'11" so I tend to avoid too much taper as it shortens my legs something awful. Of all the Japanese brands I've seen so far, Samurai seems the most wearable for me, which is ironic because I've not yet purchased a pair of them.

I do actually have a pair of PBJ-005's but they don't get a lot of wear.

I know for the most part, the mere fact that we're on this site at all means we are very brand conscious consumers, but I think within that sub-bracket we tend to forget that the fit is ultimately the most important thing since it's unlikely most of us are really going to wear our jeans until the fall off our bodies (although some people do, and big respect to them for doing so).

-Jake

[smallproblem]

Loving this thread. I'm right where you're at jake. 30+ with a grown mans body, at 6', 205 lbs. Probably a bit of a different build though, as a lot of my height is in the legs. After three different Edwins I got on the bay and got myself a pair of SC Okinawas that I liked so much I recently got some Hawaiis to just have laying around as backup, or until the Oki's are done. The Edwin Nashville actually look really flattering on me, but it may not be what you're looking for. A bit on the relaxed side of things. My next pair will be the Samurai S5000BK, in part thanks to some lurking around here. I haven't had a chance to try them on so I will be buying blind. I'm sizing down one. I would probably go for the texas denim if I could find the 0500 in black. Happy hunting.

Edit: I choose fit any day, given a choice. But I did order the Okinawas out of curiosity and hype, no question. I got lucky with the fit.

[jake431]

I'm glad to hear I'm not alone out here in the denim universe. Thanks guys. Some fit picks would be ideal to show what everyone is considering their ideal fit.

-Jake

[raulishere]

I go for fit, but regardless of whether this post is about fit versus the brand its nice to see that theres other people than just me who suffer with a waist bigger than 32. I understand your problem, being 6'2 185, if I were to buy anything true to size (34 waist) I end up getting a looser cut than I'm looking for, so for jeans like my 710xx I sized down 2, to get a slimmer fit but had to suffer with murder on my waist for a few days.

What do you wear in nudies? I'm interested to see what fits you well, I find any of their cuts hard to fit my big ass into them.

[jake431]

I go for fit, but regardless of whether this post is about fit versus the brand its nice to see that theres other people than just me who suffer with a waist bigger than 32. I understand your problem, being 6'2 185, if I were to buy anything true to size (34 waist) I end up getting a looser cut than I'm looking for, so for jeans like my 710xx I sized down 2, to get a slimmer fit but had to suffer with murder on my waist for a few days.

What do you wear in nudies? I'm interested to see what fits you well, I find any of their cuts hard to fit my big ass into them.

I wear Ralfs and I just got a pair of Average Joes in the coated black finish. They both fit well, but I'm not carrying a big ole' ass.

-Jake

[willy p]

i am definitely more of a fit guy, but i want quality too. my first pair was nudies and now after moving onto flatheads, there is no way i would ever buy a pair of nudies again because the quality is worlds apart.

yes, nudies has a wider range of fits, but most japanese companies do too, it just sounds like you arent looking hard enough.

[ExileOnMainSt]

The SDA 105 is very very similar to the RRDS

[jake431]

i am definitely more of a fit guy, but i want quality too. my first pair was nudies and now after moving onto flatheads, there is no way i would ever buy a pair of nudies again because the quality is worlds apart.

yes, nudies has a wider range of fits, but most japanese companies do too, it just sounds like you arent looking hard enough.

Brand I've tried and don't work for me:

1) Flathead F3001

2) Sugarcane 47

3) PBJ-005

4) LVC 37's, 44's, 55's

I'm currently trying a pair of Guitar Wolf Dry Bones jeans, I am hopeful. I also have a pair of Evil Denim that I wear frequently, and another in reserve.

As far as Nudie quality goes, I know people have crotch blow out on them but I've not had that problem - of course I've not had the problem most have with crotch blow out or stitch failure on my Japanese jeans either.

And I think most people into this little genre are skinny enough that most jeans work for them - on all the denim store sites, the models showing fits are skinny enough that what they look like on them is basically worthless for me.

Out of curiousity Willy, what is your height/weight and waist? If you are around the same size as me, any insight would be quite valuable.

-Jake

[tangerine]

Generally speaking, my criteria for fit are that they must be trim through the thigh (I don't like that thigh flare common to 501's and 501 repro cuts) and that they shouldn't be too tapered...

When I read this I immediately thought of Full Count 1108s; have you tried them? Slim through the thighs, narrow, but not tapered leg.

As an added bonus, they use Zimbabwe cotton and are beautiful and comfortable.

[Revsta]

I love the low pockets of Nudie, and the feel of my ESODs I really love those, but I just got a pair of Dry Bones Red-D's and I'm in love with them too. I don't really buy by brand, which is one of the reasons I haven't bought Diors yet or Sammis becasue I don't like the fit. I love the look of the fades on Sammis, but not the fits. I also don't feel the Levis repo fit just yet. I guess I'm into a high rise, worn low rise, tapered with stacks and a roomy thigh with low big pockets.

[BlueOctoberFan]

Given that you're into the RRDS cut, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Denim Junkie. His regular cut is based off of the Ralf, and I've heard nothing but good things of them (I haven't tried them because the RR cut is too slim in the theigh for me).

But yes, fit is far more important than the brand. I'm always looking for something that'll be loose enough in the theigh for me, and they're few and far between. Next up is likely to be an Oni Red, but we'll just see what's around when the funds are around...

[bye4now12]

I'm in a similar situation as the OP, though I'm only 17 I'm 5'10", 180lbs, with a 34" measured waist and large thighs. I play sports year round and do a lot of heavy squats, and I'm not skinny by any standards. It made me happy to see the s0500xx's mentioned because I actually just pulled the trigger on some size 34's via a proxy on another message board.

I've been in love with my Warehouse 660's (I've got the BiG ones, for the SuFu contest but they're all the same cut). The denim is amazing and I personally love the fit. Here's a waywt from a few days ago of me in them, I'll be sure to post how the s0500xx's fit when I get them in a week.

[bye4now12]

In regards to ^^those^^, they are a size 34, but they are huge in the waist on me and measure 36". That's one thing that seems to be something that people with larger legs/thighs have to deal with, wearing waists that are too big if they want the right fit.

[loste]

@ Jake

if you like the RRDS fit you must check out the Denimjunkie 501xx.

it is very very similar to the RRDS cut, actually a little based on the cut too.

I love the fit on my RRDS and when i got my Denimjunkie 501xx i liked it better. There are many cool details on it wich makes it way cooler than the RRDS.

You can get it in 14 oz and 15 oz. i got the 14 oz.

And a cool thing is that you get a patch on the inside of the frontpocket with your name.'

i think this is a japaneese brand thats right up your alley, atleast the 501xx cut.

The fit of jeans is very very important to me. I dont buy jeans only because of the denimquality. The denim counts ofcourse. But i dont buy jeans that fit like a bag of potatoes with the finest denim, i think most agree...lol

My point is just that the fit is important.

The ones i like now the most is my PBJ xx007 and my DJ 501xx.

Skull 5010xx , Flathead 3001, Samurai 710, Imperial Dukes, SDA 103 and RRDS are also great fits i think

[bye4now12]

I'm thinking the samurai 710 and Flathead 3001 would be wayy to skinny for the larger people that have posted in this thread, unless their weight is mostly in their upper body, 3001's require pretty damn skinny legs.

[azn8oi]

These are my -size 30- Samurai 0500xx after a wash (super tight). they loosen after you wear them for a week.

5'9'' 175lbs // 23" around thighs.

my normal waist is 31 (meaning that I sized down 1)

/nohomo

[azn8oi]

oh yeah. and i cheat on you caucasians cus i am CHINEE. i hav nun dat azz bizniz.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[bye4now12]

oh yeah. and i cheat on you caucasians cus i am CHINEE. i hav nun dat azz bizniz.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

175lbs and a 31" waist :eek: Your upper body is really hard to judge but are you jacked or what? Thats pretty heavy for a 5'9" person with a 31" waist (meaning you've got to be pretty muscular).

btw I the fit on this is amazing, and the fading is beautiful. That was one of the pairs I saw that helped me order some 0500xx's.

[willy p]

Brand I've tried and don't work for me:

1) Flathead F3001

2) Sugarcane 47

3) PBJ-005

4) LVC 37's, 44's, 55's

Out of curiousity Willy, what is your height/weight and waist? If you are around the same size as me, any insight would be quite valuable.

-Jake

well im over 6 feet tall and i only weigh like 150, so im a string bean, so sorry i cant be much help as far as comparing

good luck though... just dont give up

[who8mahrice]

Haha...I'm 5'7" and 165lbs but a 30 waist...

In any case, PBJ 005 works for me if I size up one...or two...lol.

Nudie Bootcut Ola did NOT work out well for me; though the Straight Sven did.