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Leathercrafting Creations: PYC


OptimaDies

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Thanks Ray, the blue is the Japanese dye that Goods-Japan sells. This was my first try with that brand and I have to say I'm impressed.

The thread is one of the ones that you sent me a while back, turns out it's a really good color match for that horsehide.

Killer dude Glad it got put to use instead of just getting dirty on my shelf.

been meaning to order the grey powder dye from GoodsJapan glad to hear its good stuff.

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I don't know what your budget is but if you're looking from head knives, there are a few American custom makers that make very good knives. Check out:

http://jcookblades.com/leather.htm

http://www.knipknives.com/leather.php

As for awls, I've used the Seiwa ones from Japan and I like those. They are diamond shaped, come in different sizes, and are fairly short which I look. You can find those from goods japan or eBay. From what I hear, Bob Douglas tools makes the best awls around but I have never personally used them. There's no online catalog but you can find their contact through Sheridan Leather Outfitters (their website seems to no longer be around but if you google them I'm sure you can find them).

Also, if you are looking for edgers, check out http://www.ronstools.com. I have their Montana edgers and they're great for thinner leathers.

Andrew

I've actually heard good things about J Cook. His blades aren't steel, but I read they are really good and will last a really long time. I'm still researching around for tools, but I think I might buy a how to manual instead. It was highly recommended, but costs 100 bucks per manual.

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Is that the manual from the british guy Francis Burdett-Mills? If it is, I have the first manual. Lots of information but a very dense read. I didn't finish reading it though cause the first one has a lot of really rudimentary stuff.

Andrew

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Yup, that's the one. I got the Al Stohlman "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather", because it was highly recommended by everyone. Honestly, I didn't read it much because I pretty much knew everything in there already, so it was a bit disappointing. That was fine for me since the book was about $12 US. I'm a bit worried about purchasing the Burdett-mills manual, because I don't want it to be a complete waste of almost $100.

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A lot of the first manual's information is very basic, how to make straps and belts mostly. A lot of information on handstitching and general overview info on a lot of tools and different aspects of leatherworking. There is an interesting section on costing your project. I'm actually more interested in the topics of the later manuals (construction techniques for small leather goods and bags) but I'm not sure now if I want to commit to it considering the price.

There's a lot of information but definitely a difficult and dense read.

Andrew

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had my first "holy shit" moment today when I outgrew my shop in a matter of an hour. There's roughly 22 hides in those boxes and I'm already out of space to put the belts that will come of them. kinda crazy how a hobby can turn into this, psyched to see all the new folks in the thread!

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yep- I've been using the same $12 Tandy strap cutter since 2008, cut thousands of straps with it one-by-one and doesn't even have the end wing nut thing on it anymore. Changing blades depends on the leather for me- leather with more oils like an english bridle or latigo is easier on blades, and veg tan generally murders them at anything over 10oz. I just change whenever the blade feels grippy because cutting up 5-10 hides at a time is way less physically taxing with less resistance. I'd say every 3-4 for a processed hide and ever 1-3 for veg tan unless they snap- I've absolutely used 5 or 6 blades on one hide of veg tan before, esp. anything over 15oz.

Most important thing is to flip the hide every 3-4 strips- prevents your straight edge from bowing

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^ Damn. You've given me new hope for the Tandy strap cutter. I thought that stuff was trash when i tried using it. The straight edge i made keeps getting curvier by each strap. Didn't expect all those belts to be cut using the same tool.

a strap cutter is such a simple tool that it's hard for one to be trash. Sounds like you just need to practice with it as there is some learning curve. Go very slow, keep a sharp blade, and have someone hold the top end of the hide for you. flip the hide every 3 or 4 strips to prevent that curve, or embrace it like Samurai does with their belts haha

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some more hand stuffed horsehide bridle.

trying to keep the colors unique when i make this stuff.

green horsey hide, natural pig liner, and chestnut W&C interior

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and some basic cardholders , no lining and made in all natural W&C bridle

been on a cardholder making kick in my spare time, most of my leather time is spent making mid wallets.

so its been nice to relax with a beer and make something smaller and more simple.

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Edited by TheBlackGoat
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Splitter for wallet insides, no relation to the bag, although it would be nice to thin leather for pockets inside bags and lining. I dont do much skiving, but have made a few card holders for friends and stuff with turned edges, but just do it by hand. I have so much 5-6 oz cxl strap, i want to be able to split it down to 3 oz for wallet insides. Also want to do full horse butt wallets etc. I was gonna bite the bullet and buy a cheap pull through one, but think id be better off dropping some doe.

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I think the best person to talk to about this is Bruce Johnson @ http://brucejohnsonleather.com

He's a mod at leatherworker and he sells vintage leather tools. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to anything leather tool related. I think if you give him a budget, he can recommend you a good one. The splitters on his site are all sold out, but he still might have some laying around.

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