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The Evolution of Jeans: Pictures, Scones and Tea


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I'll try and get full pics soon.

I gots no honeycombs =( so disappointing.. lol, too many washes, not enough time for them to set in between.

and flex, theve got anywhere from 20-30 washes now. I wash them almost weekly now. My laps get disgustingly black from grease and grime at work (it still shows in the whitest of areas in that pic)

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PG2G, you and i both know none of those fit like APC...similar in the sense that they're straight leg, but the narrow, boxier hip area of the APCs is probably what you're referring to. But Jesus, $160 now?

an apparently bad assumption on the naked & famous. i have no experience with the jeans and assumed that BIG would be sticking to a certain level of quality when choosing products to sell.

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allright time for my samurai s0500xx again. It's been a while. http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?p=972278#post97227

since this is evolution I figure the old link should be included. as stated in earlier posts they started off in June07. they have about 13 months of wear 4-5 washes don't really remember. Needs some proper repair especially in the back pockets, the crotch is'nt to healthy either as you can see.

These have been a lovley pair of jeans to wear. goes with everything and has a great

feel.

color is a bit saturated due to sunlight and the concrete on my balcony but you get the idea.

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:confused:

Yes, seems like more risky speculation. Can be easily fixed by inserting IMO, and/or having worn said five pairs of jeans for the same length of time and compare results.

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Yes, seems like more risky speculation. Can be easily fixed by inserting IMO, and/or having worn said five pairs of jeans for the same length of time and compare results.

A product of my experience with different denims, I suppose. I wouldn't equate this with speculation. Though I'm sure there are exceptions to every rule, I think it's pretty safe to say that the majority of these higher end japanese denims will far outlast APCs given the same amount of wear. I'm sure there will be naysayers, but my guess is the people who might choose to speak for APC and against those other options would mostly consist of those who have no experience with the higher quality stuff, or maybe some people who haven't even washed their APCs yet to find how little denim there actually is underneath all that starch.

Doesn't matter anyway. To each his own. But for those of you who haven't tried the good stuff, I suggest saving a few more bucks next time instead of buying another pair that lose their color after 2 washes.

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A product of my experience with different denims, I suppose. I wouldn't equate this with speculation. Though I'm sure there are exceptions to every rule, I think it's pretty safe to say that the majority of these higher end japanese denims will far outlast APCs given the same amount of wear. I'm sure there will be naysayers, but my guess is the people who might choose to speak for APC and against those other options would mostly consist of those who have no experience with the higher quality stuff, or maybe some people who haven't even washed their APCs yet to find how little denim there actually is underneath all that starch.

Doesn't matter anyway. To each his own. But for those of you who haven't tried the good stuff, I suggest saving a few more bucks next time instead of buying another pair that lose their color after 2 washes.

I cant speak for everyone here, but I bought my APC because I read that it is great starter denim at a solid price. It was my first raw pair and didn't know all about the "processes." Also they have reliable fading principles. Why would I shell out for higher end japanese denim for a starter pair? I can work my way up to that. I love my APC's. I've got some japanese denim now and we'll see how that goes.

Also my pair have touched water twice and still have lots of indigo for over a years worth of wear.

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I agree. APC is a great starter denim, and it's even a great denim if all you care about is the cut, because they have that box-shaped waist/hip/thigh area that few other cuts share. But I bought them back when they were $120 and there weren't many other options. Now, we're in a whole different ballgame, and I wouldn't even consider purchasing another pair for $160. But like I said, that's me... Others may and probably do feel differently. When I washed my pair of APCs, they turned all dry feeling and papery. This has not been the case with a single other pair of denims I've owned since them. I consider it worth the additional $60 investment to own a more solidly constructed pair of pants.

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I agree. APC is a great starter denim, and it's even a great denim if all you care about is the cut, because they have that box-shaped waist/hip/thigh area that few other cuts share.

I only have limited experience with them (rescues at about 1 week), but I'd say that if you're interested at all in cut, this is a reason not to get them. If you have anything resembling an ass, you have to get a size that's crushing on the hips just to not have inches of extra denim around the waist.

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BIG alone has some options to pick from. Haven't tried the naked & famous denim, but the denim quality looks to be on par with APC--I would guess the dying job is probably done a little better (by N&F) but that is an assumption.

Naked & Famous uses high quality denim imported from Japan, only the sewing is done in Canada. The idea behind the label was to essentially produce a good quality jean at an affordable price. There were no costs cut in the denim used, but there are in other areas such as the sewing and hardware. This is especially evident in the older last season models.

The denim AFAI can tell is not really very different (quality-wise) from that used on many of the other reputable companies out there using Japanese selvage denim (Jean shop or Imperial spring to mind). The newer models look better, with overall better finishing. Still the same hardware, but at least the inseams are now felled and there's chain-stitching throughout the jean. And the range of denims used is actually pretty damn nice, especially in the 18oz and 21oz weight fabrics.

IMO they seem to surpass APC in quality due to the denim used and the cheap prices alone. With prices at $120 for their 14oz selvage, ranging to $150 for the 18oz and $190 for 21oz I think they're a pretty good deal. Especially if you're looking at an entry level jean or just something to fuck around with. I'm currently working on a pair of the 21oz, so we'll see how those hold up and fade.

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A product of my experience with different denims, I suppose. I wouldn't equate this with speculation. Though I'm sure there are exceptions to every rule, I think it's pretty safe to say that the majority of these higher end japanese denims will far outlast APCs given the same amount of wear. I'm sure there will be naysayers, but my guess is the people who might choose to speak for APC and against those other options would mostly consist of those who have no experience with the higher quality stuff, or maybe some people who haven't even washed their APCs yet to find how little denim there actually is underneath all that starch.

Doesn't matter anyway. To each his own. But for those of you who haven't tried the good stuff, I suggest saving a few more bucks next time instead of buying another pair that lose their color after 2 washes.

This is something that baffles me. People assuming something will be stronger, longer lasting and 'better' because its more expensive. Its a myth one projects onto products in order to believe there is an empirical reason for spending more.

Here are a few of the jeans ive got now....

Eternal 868 tenth anniversary limited

Eternal 877 natural indigo limited

Sugar Cane natural Edo Ais SC40500

Pure Blue Japan 005xx

APC New Standards

Kapital Cisco No4 Special Denim

DRKSHDW Detroit poly-something coated

DRKSHDW Berlin somethings

DRKSHDW Cords

Zara Grey washed skinny ( these are lovely )

Julian Red Hoboken Nikki Sixx

Julian Red D2 Sorrow Black

Howies Selvedge

Ive also had samurai and stuff.

Quality is subjective but im presuming most people use the term to refer to build / construction quality. APC are on par with most japanese brands. Sure they tend to lose there dye.... but that could be down to many variables. None of which really have anything to do with quality. indigo falls - its just does.

Its understandable to see why people prefer the historically aware and artisanal approach to jeans that the majority of amerkaji denim brands produce - but this is a design aspect and nothing to do with 'quality' - in fact one could quite happily argue that any brand that opts to sew with 100% cotton threads rather than poly cotton ( to be historically true ) is even of lower quality and less likely to last. Would you say Samurais texas denim is inferior due to the shorter fibers???? No - and rightly so - as 'quality' is so subjective and most people around here understand the nature texas denim is a design feature of the fabric - similar to cotton threads on sugarcanes and easy fading thighs on Nudies and APCs..... Just because some brands use thinner denim, or dont dye as deeply doesnt mean they are inferior - it just means they were designed from a different paradigm, with a different goal in mind than other brands.

But we all have funny ways of justifying $250 on jeans - my empirical measure of quality is hem width - the small the better.

Good Night

viv

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^Agree with viv on several points, but disagree on a couple as well.

For instance dyeing. True, Nudies and APC may be designed so that they fade quickly...but I think that fading time can possibly tell about dyeing quality, whether it be the number of times its dipped in dye to the composition of the indigo used (or sulphur or w/e). The last one I would think is particularly important as the chemical makeup can determine nearly everything about the fading properties from adhesiveness to the cotton fibers to w/e else you can think of.

As for quality in the fibers itself...2x1 weave vs. 3x1 weave. One is more economically cheaper, but also weaker. Can't just argue simply that the company is trying to save money, therefore using a weaker weave pattern so it can't be compared to other companies that use the other. IIRC, ring spun is also stronger than open ended fibers. I think a concrete example of denim quality is the Skull 5010 7x6 vs 6x6.

Not everything can just be relative, ya? Why buy the LVC 501XX when you can get the $35 regular 501 STF?

Or maybe I'm just talking out of my ass.

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