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Digital SLRs?


nairb49

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yea i know that the big screen isn't a good argument but

better IQ is better IQ. I mean it's that the reason why you buy a SLR because you want the high quality images? I'm not saying that the d80 is a bad camera, i just think that head to head XSi kit is much better then the d80. Unless you have massive hands XSi is still a great pick.

also, XSi kit is the same price as the d80 kit

if you want to go for the better hand hold quality/build quality vs IQ i would go for a 30d kit same price as a d80 now btw...

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i actually think the d80 feels better than the 30/40d in terms of hand hold quality.

at the end of the day, just get whatever is cheaper. they are all so similar that it becomes a waste of time comparing the differences. you are going to get used to the settings/ergonomics/button placement and all that bs eventually.

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even if i'm a canon xt owner and like it a lot, i thin that the d80 from nikon is a good choice, it has a better viewfinder, a good handle (my hands are very thin so i'll stick with my xt), and is well built and has a top lcd for basic settings. if you want to go for canon, i don't think the xti is worth it compared to the xt, or get a 30D instead, for kinda the same price used.

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I've got a 40D and I love mine. To each his own. I find Nikons menus to eleborate to get around quickly. Although im sure if I had the camera for a couple days I'd get used to it. Meh...

Great companion for anyone whos got an slr or planning to buy one. If you have been looking at flashes, there are a bunch of fancy ones on the market, sold by nikon and canon, with all these fancy lcd screens, menus, built in f/stop calculators, etc.

Holding my vivitar 285HV manual power selection flash today I feel I can still compete with all the new flashes. They've been around for a long time and they do their job. I've got 2 of them, matched with cactus wireless flash triggers (they are pooo). I really need to buy some pocket wizards or something.

IMG_0406.jpg

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I have a Nikon D50 and I've been using the kit lens for about a year, and I'm ready to upgrade. I mostly do photos of people - portraits and stuff - I've started to do some shoots for my work though, going to festivals and performances to take pictures.

Can anyone suggest a good next-step lens?

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I have a Nikon D50 and I've been using the kit lens for about a year, and I'm ready to upgrade. I mostly do photos of people - portraits and stuff - I've started to do some shoots for my work though, going to festivals and performances to take pictures.

Can anyone suggest a good next-step lens?

A low fstop 50mm or maybe a 35mm prime lense.

Something like ...

AF Nikkor 35mm f/2.0

AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 or f/1.8

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yo every1 get 50mm 1.8 but prolly too zoom in for a lot of sitiuation, if u usin as all-around lens...yo timba try dis... go out wit ur kit lens shootin like everythin for one day, all at like 50mm focal lenth... then try again the next day at 30/35mm... see which length works best at shootin wut u interest in shootin and the situationz u r in....

den u buy...

den u send me ann d booties

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I've got a 40D and I love mine. To each his own. I find Nikons menus to eleborate to get around quickly. Although im sure if I had the camera for a couple days I'd get used to it. Meh...

Great companion for anyone whos got an slr or planning to buy one. If you have been looking at flashes, there are a bunch of fancy ones on the market, sold by nikon and canon, with all these fancy lcd screens, menus, built in f/stop calculators, etc.

Holding my vivitar 285HV manual power selection flash today I feel I can still compete with all the new flashes. They've been around for a long time and they do their job. I've got 2 of them, matched with cactus wireless flash triggers (they are pooo). I really need to buy some pocket wizards or something.

lulz cactus triggers suck.

and it is very annoying when people try and defend them by saying that they dont need 100% reliability.

theres alot more to a 580exII/sb800 etc than an lcd an f stop calculators, it is wierd that you would bring that up since your vivi has a calculator too.

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lulz cactus triggers suck.

and it is very annoying when people try and defend them by saying that they dont need 100% reliability.

theres alot more to a 580exII/sb800 etc than an lcd an f stop calculators, it is wierd that you would bring that up since your vivi has a calculator too.

Oh I know they suck, im saving up for pw. But I have both vivitar flashes and 580 exl,

and I can produce very similiar shots with each. The 580 weighs a ton more than the viv.

I had this conversation with a buddy of mine. Someone whos just dropped lets say 1600$ on a slr kit, is going to want to buy a flash sometime in the near future if they are really interested in photography and they might not have the money for a 450$ flash and 600$ for 2 PW.

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so dont buy the 1600 slr in the first place.

not having a good flash (when you need one, not everyone does)

is like not having a good lens etc.

if you buy a ferrari, understand that the accessories needed to utilize it to the full potential are going to cost you.

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tamron 17 50 2.8

sigma 18 50 2.8

sigma 17 70

or canon L zooms if ya baller

but i suggeest your try low end lenses first so that you clearly see the difference when upgrading to high end !

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Very cool

Thanks.

tamron 17-50mm is the best of the cheaper fast zooms for crop cameras.

the advice to get an L zoom is stupid and false, the closest one to a general purpose zoom is the 24-70mm 2.8L

and that is not wide enough on a crop cam to qualify as a general purpose zoom for most if not all.

so thats why if you have the money you get the canon ef-s 17-55mm f2.8 is

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the alcohol in my blood made me forgot the 17-55 2.8 IS from Canon, sorry. Indeed an amazing lens for a cropped sensor, just very expensive, and you even need to add a few bucks for the hood...

i think the 17-50 form tamron is a really good choice if you don't want to spend $1200 on a lens just yet.

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PP related, does anyone have a good tutorial(video prefably) to correct colour cast differences when you marge 2 seperate images into one? I always get very different lighting and I have to mask it up by using completely different colour tones

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i'm assuming you didn't shoot raw, since then it would be really easy.

there are probably a dozen ways to do this, but i would use a curves adjustment layer to tweak the chanel(s) until the color balance matches.

I do, Im just wondering if theres a tool/process to do thats easier than tweaking the white balance? I remember seeing a video where the guy used curves to sample the shadow/highlight areas of a seperate image and it automatically corrected the cast, but it turned out horribly for me

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Just got paid and I have enough to throw down on some good glass, just not L.

Thinking EF 50mm f/1.4, but there's also others......

Shit. Recommendations?

What do you have and what kind of stuff do you want to shoot?

There's tons of good EOS glass available for less than $500 new, and if you are willing to buy used the options get even better. But before you buy anything, you should think about what you will be doing with the lens. The 50 f/1.4 USM is great if you shoot low light a lot, but if you routinely use it past f/3.5 or so then you could just stick with the 50mm f/1.8 and spend the extra money on another lens or flash.

Here are some great lenses under $500 new.

Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro (USM is more expensive but has no extending front element when focusing, a very cool feature.)

Canon 85mm f/1.8

Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (if you get a good copy)

If you want a zoom and can spend ~$600 then the Canon 70-200 f/4 L and Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 are excellent zooms.

I buy all my glass used, and if you're on a budget I'd recommend that.

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