Jump to content

Bicyclettes


canice

Recommended Posts

you ever check out la fixed. com or anything?

they always have ppl selling stuff and you can always haggle and snag good deals.

as for my situation i will be trying new bars (bullhorns with size 40) and seeing how that alleviates the situation.

if not, i guess a fork with a few spacers inbetween.

i didn't even think to ask how long you've been riding. that is a huge part of it because it's new muscles being worked to support your head that haven't really been in that position before. i'd try more spacers to get a more upright position rather than bullhorns. the more upright your torso is the less your neck has to strain. another option before doing anything else is to try riding with your hands near the stem. i do this when my neck gets tired on long rides on any bike, it pushes me more upright. if this helps, you'll want to get a new fork rather than bullhorns, which are manufactured specifically with a super low aero position in mind (which would be even worse for your neck problems).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you know the little plastic piece that lays down inside the rim between the spoke holes and the tire tube? where can I get one of those? and is it even necessary?

it's called rim tape and yes it is very necessary unless you like changing tubes. you can get it at any bike shop, some of them have cloth tape too. same thing,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's called rim tape and yes it is very necessary unless you like changing tubes. you can get it at any bike shop, some of them have cloth tape too. same thing,

thanks

I assumed it was necessary since it seems to serve a pretty obvious function, but I just realized I never remembered having seen it for sale anywhere. I'll pick some up though.

trying to decide if this tire is safe to use after going through my little wreck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FOR SALE:

IMG_2470.jpg

IMG_2480.jpg

IMG_2490.jpg

And here it is with the tubular wheelset (and different bar tape)-

2126206692_06b840f074.jpg

54cm 1993 Eddy Merckx Corsa

Columbus SL tubing

Campy Chorus 8-speed group with brifters

Campy Seatpost

Giordana saddle

Cinelli bars/stem

I have two wheelsets for the bike-

1. Shimano 105 hubs laced to Matrix Iso 3 rims (clincher) with brand new WTB Camino tires.

2. Record hubs laced to Campy Victory Strada rims (tubular) Front wheel is missing tube.

It's in good condition, a few scratches, and three small patches of surface rust on the underside of the top tube. It's from the pump that used to sit on the bike. I included a pic.

WANT:

Money

Modern road bike in same (or similar size)

Black quill stems

Set of 25-30c tires

110 bcd chainring

PM me..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes i havent cycled this intensely ever in my life and i guess you can say road riding is new for me

along with what others have said, it might simply be that you're rotating your head up, rather than looking up with your eyes. Can be an issue if your helmet's too low, your helmet has a visor, the visor on your cap. I work with a lot of people that transition over to serious road riding/ group rides. This occurs quite often, especially when people aren't used to riding on roads with traffic or in groups.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks

I assumed it was necessary since it seems to serve a pretty obvious function, but I just realized I never remembered having seen it for sale anywhere. I'll pick some up though.

trying to decide if this tire is safe to use after going through my little wreck.

get Velox. any shop in Austin or Dallas will have it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

out of everything you guys said it actually may be the stem

i have a stem that has no spacing but i found that im more comfy if theres at least a inch between it!

(and larger width bars) i was considering bullhorns with zero degree drop and angleing it upward a bit since i tend to grab those during hill climbs.

thanks for all the help!;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the answer to you question is simple.

your biek doesnt fit you. One major component of bike fiting is flexibility.

This proves vital to finding out the appropriate saddle bar drop. Most track racers dont have that much concern of this as road racers because most track races do not last as long, BUT every proffesional and good (road) bike fitter will check flexibility.

This shows the bike fitter how long the top tube along with how much of a saddle bar drop is apprpriate.

to fix your problem, get a shorter stem, or get a stem with a positive rise, or get risers that willl put u in a more natural position.

Or you can just more flexible which is alot harder...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the skid patch theory is true. its basic physics. The reason it doesnt work accurately is because positioning of pedals vary. my front foot can vary from anything from 11 to 7 oclock angle and if i just skid in one side like this I will have ONE HUUUGGEGEE skid. likewise you can imagine that both sides will be the same.

in a perfect worl where we can skid with perfect at 9 and 3 we will have the skid pathces used in the calculations, but because this is not the case we often will have these skids "smudged" together...

basicaly it works but because it is based on perfection which is unrealistic. but the calculations are true.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FOR SALE:

IMG_2470.jpg

And here it is with the tubular wheelset (and different bar tape)-

54cm 1993 Eddy Merckx Corsa

Columbus SL tubing

Campy Chorus 8-speed group with brifters

Campy Seatpost

Giordana saddle

Cinelli bars/stem

I have two wheelsets for the bike-

1. Shimano 105 hubs laced to Matrix Iso 3 rims (clincher) with brand new WTB Camino tires.

2. Record hubs laced to Campy Victory Strada rims (tubular) Front wheel is missing tube.

It's in good condition, a few scratches, and three small patches of surface rust on the underside of the top tube. It's from the pump that used to sit on the bike. I included a pic.

WANT:

Money

Modern road bike in same (or similar size)

Black quill stems

Set of 25-30c tires

110 bcd chainring

PM me..

ahhhh this is so nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if i do bump it down to 48 x 17 i technically can go faster but would it be easier for me to pedal or harder?

and thanks for all the feedback (noob at this and not too much fixed gear riders in my vicinity)

You'll be able to maintain a higher top speed at lower cadence. Acceleration will be a little slower at first but you should get used to it pretty quick. One cog tooth (back) is roughly equal to 3 chainring teeth (front) so it's a bigger jump than you think. 48/17 is definitely a really good all-around gear. Fast without being too tough on hills, and low enough that you can do some tricking. Also has the benefit of 17 skid patches... 17t cog is a good one to have

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is making me want to get back in cycling. Used to road race when I was younger until I busted my knee. Even now every winter I it clicks when I walk.

Then it was reynolds 731 frame and shamano 600 group set, mavik rims, rolls saddle, cinneli stem and look pedals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...