Bicyclettes

[the_state]

should have gotten the 53cm

i ride the 50 and i'm 5'6"

i have very short legs. i tried a 50cm pista at some bike shop in tribeca and the dude told me i shouldn't go above 50-51cm

[the_state]

if you raise your seat, your legs extend more. you can feel a big difference when you ride. its alot more comfortable and easier to pedal faster. and i dunno whats goin on with your steerer tube. you got some MTB geometry goin on there

steerer tube? that came assembled as you see it. only the stem and bars needed to be attached.

edit: here's a stock pic.

looks like mine. this really is the most elitist thread on sufu.

[aydo1]

some greasy asshole jacked my saddle today right in front of my school early afternoon

i was gone for like 30 mins walking a friend back from class.

[knucks]

all we're saying is that your bike doesn't look like it fits properly. AKA either your seat is too low and you're not getting the right extension, or the frame is too big for you. Granted, the latter is out of the question because my roomate has a 50cm Kilo and that shit is almost on the verge of being too small for my hobbit self.

We're not elitist, you may just be an idiot.

[the_state]

if you manage to get the decals off the kilo, it looks pretty badass.

how could i go about doing this? shits is an eyesore.

btw i raised post. feels better, still getting used to "climbing" on...

[knucks]

Well the decals are UNDER the topcoat so it's not that easy.

My buddy just used black electrical tape to tape over it. I think you can also use a blowdryer to get them off, then re-spray with a clear coat?

[hamburglar]

true gangstas rattle can their shit

[ipp]

state.. from what i'm reading, even though i don't know your exact body measurements, from your height and just saying you have short legs, a 50 sounds pretty good, i wouldn't worry. for the seat height, you'll want to extend the seat to the point where you leg is nearly locked out (so just a little bend in the knee). If you want, you can put it a little lower than that to just get used to riding. For now, you can probably keep the steer tube that length cause you're just getting started. For now just try to get the seat at a proper height and have fun riding. Also, ask fellow cyclists if they could help you with the seat height and what not. Worry about the other stuff later.

there is a lot of science behind this and it takes a lot of time to get a perfect set up, so don't worry.

[offmybiscuits]

steerer tube? that came assembled as you see it. only the stem and bars needed to be attached.

looks like mine. this really is the most elitist thread on sufu.

my bad, didnt mean to sound elitist. my friend just got one too, a size 54 in purple. its just that yours looks abnormally bigger because the frame is smaller and the seat is slammed down. trying to get on the bike with your raised seatpost will takessome time to get used to, but when you ride, its a better feeling and you can pedal harder. as for the decals, just rattle can over it, then clear cloat it. then [if you want] throw some silver or white velocity deep v's, shitll look balla

[brightbill]

just because it came assembed that was doesn't mean it's right... steerer tube is made to be cut down to size. some people slam it all the way down to the headset (like this pic), i left a spacer or two in mine but it still feels, rides and looks a lot better

[corter]

people need to stop putting $600 wheelsets on $300 complete bikes.

[knucks]

people need to stop putting $600 wheelsets on $300 complete bikes.

there's nothing wrong with the kilo tt frame..

[diewhitegirls]

people need to stop putting $600 wheelsets on $300 complete bikes.

That is the exact thought that went through my head. Not to mention the obsession with Aerospokes. HED3, sure. Aerospoke=disaster waiting to happen.

[brightbill]

people need to stop putting $600 wheelsets on $300 complete bikes.

ideally thats like a 350 dollar wheelset. 250 for a basic black front aerospoke, 100 for deep v to whatever in the rear.

of course, the guy probably DID pay much closer to 600. even before the gawdy white (gran compe?) tires.

edit - front looks like a rubino pro. but he's still got the stock seat....

[the_state]

state.. from what i'm reading, even though i don't know your exact body measurements, from your height and just saying you have short legs, a 50 sounds pretty good, i wouldn't worry. for the seat height, you'll want to extend the seat to the point where you leg is nearly locked out (so just a little bend in the knee). If you want, you can put it a little lower than that to just get used to riding. For now, you can probably keep the steer tube that length cause you're just getting started. For now just try to get the seat at a proper height and have fun riding. Also, ask fellow cyclists if they could help you with the seat height and what not. Worry about the other stuff later.

there is a lot of science behind this and it takes a lot of time to get a perfect set up, so don't worry.

yeah i found an allen key in my tool box and adjusted the height. it rides better when positioned higher, but i can't really get the hang of getting on easily. i guess it'll take some getting used to.

what's the most i should pay to get the steerer cut down? i'm not trying to run out and buy a hacksaw and clamp...

[corter]

there's nothing wrong with the kilo tt frame..

no there isn't, it's a great cheap frame. I love mine... it's just kind of like buying a $2000 car and putting $5000 worth of audio stuff in it...i don't get it.

ideally thats like a 350 dollar wheelset. 250 for a basic black front aerospoke, 100 for deep v to whatever in the rear.

of course, the guy probably DID pay much closer to 600. even before the gawdy white (gran compe?) tires.

edit - front looks like a rubino pro. but he's still got the stock seat....

I believe i saw a gtb frame alone go for $900 on ebay the other week, prices are so inflated it's retarted. and i did laugh at the stock seat too. that and the pedal setup are the first things that stock kilo owners should change, the pedals are barely even rideable.

[permanent]

yeah i found an allen key in my tool box and adjusted the height. it rides better when positioned higher, but i can't really get the hang of getting on easily. i guess it'll take some getting used to.

what's the most i should pay to get the steerer cut down? i'm not trying to run out and buy a hacksaw and clamp...

after you got the steering tube cut down its easy to get on and off over the bar

should be around $25-30.

[brightbill]

don't feel the need to keep your old (drop/flat) stem just for looks though - go for a proper fit, get a rise stem if necessary. or you can just flip the stock kilo one.

a good thing about the kilo (and all bikes) is that you can swap the frame just like any other part. i got a complete one and have put on mostly cheap upgrades (arione saddle, rb021s, cannondale stem, old shimano pedals, sunrims/formula rear, bontrager select front) while ditching stock stuff. i just bought new cranks, though, and i'm chuckling at having a crankset thats worth more than my frame. then again, the clipless shoes i wear for longer rides are also worth more than the kilo frame. its all good.

retail, like they say, is for suckers, though.

[KM80]

yeah i found an allen key in my tool box and adjusted the height. it rides better when positioned higher, but i can't really get the hang of getting on easily. i guess it'll take some getting used to.

what's the most i should pay to get the steerer cut down? i'm not trying to run out and buy a hacksaw and clamp...

Swing your foot over the handle bars then step on the high peddle and start biking, or put your foot on the high peddle standing beside it, peddle will go down and back up and you get on easy, you know?

I think I dropped my seat to low the other day and my knee almost exploded, so I would recommend keeping it as high as possible without having to move to the side on your seat to reach full extension, that shit's just not comfortable.

[ipp]

yeah i found an allen key in my tool box and adjusted the height. it rides better when positioned higher, but i can't really get the hang of getting on easily. i guess it'll take some getting used to.

what's the most i should pay to get the steerer cut down? i'm not trying to run out and buy a hacksaw and clamp...

the place i worked at probably wouldn't charge more than $10-$15 plus the few bucks for a new star nut. don't worry about cutting it down just yet because you'll want to get fitted most likely. If you do get it cut down, ask the shop how much they recommend cutting off. I would recommend leaving a few spacers, plus its better to cut off less than more, you can't really go back.

[ipp]

Swing your foot over the handle bars

do you mean top tube? cause swinging your leg over the handle bars is retarded..

[KM80]

Personally I find it more awkward to step over the top tube than holding the stem and passing it under my leg, that's just me though. Maybe not the cool guy way, but why retarded?

Usually I just step on the peddle and start riding though...

Actually thinking about it for a minute it is pretty retarded if you are getting on your bike and riding right away. I guess that's what I did when I started riding more because I wasn't used to bikes and was always fucking with the clips and wanted to get a foot stuck in before I started biking. I still think it would be easier than stepping over the top tube which doesn't make a lot of sense either, but I do kind of agree.

[rockon99]

Is it common practice to put aero wheels like hed3s on a roadbike? i have the stock bontrager wheelset that came on my trek.. love them.. 5 year warranty etc.. but i wanna start the modz rahhtnow. any advice is good advice

[ipp]

if you do a lot of distance riding, get some mavic ksyrium's. the elite's are about $600 a set and really good. but if you want to lay the cash, get the sl's which are about $1000 a set. these wheels are nearly bomb proof and pretty light. They have aluminum spokes too.

edit: if you want an aero wheel, get zipps, no question. for road riding you would want either the 404's or 303's, but overall zipps are expensive and expect to pay starting in the thousands.

[the_state]

after you got the steering tube cut down its easy to get on and off over the bar

should be around $25-30.

cool, i'll swing by tomorrow.

any reco's for a pedal upgrades?

[brightbill]

MKS sylvans with MKS clips are pretty widely used and loved. Wellgo makes some cheaper knockoffs that usually work fine, too.

as for aero road wheels - it's certainly common practice for time trialists and elite folks. if you want "modz" stick to cheap deep v's and maybe an aerospoke. don't get zipp or hed shit just to look cool... put in miles, not money.

also - the hplusson rims might be just right for you, they have like a 42mm profile but are only like a hundred or so bucks per rim. ksyriums if you want performance, though.

[the_state]

err. when i turn my front wheel, it hits my foot/feet as it/they're coming forward while pedaling. what's wrong here? is it normal to have this kind of clearance issue? will new pedals fix this?

[wild style]

Toe overlap is common, especially on smaller track frames.

[ipp]

as for aero road wheels - it's certainly common practice for time trialists and elite folks. if you want "modz" stick to cheap deep v's and maybe an aerospoke. don't get zipp or hed shit just to look cool... put in miles, not money.

also - the hplusson rims might be just right for you, they have like a 42mm profile but are only like a hundred or so bucks per rim. ksyriums if you want performance, though.

you're seriously recommending deep v's or h+son rims for his trek road bike? thats so tacky and all about looks. I guarantee that both of those rims are completely lower quality than the stock bontragers. rockon, stick with road wheels NOT track wheels.

err. when i turn my front wheel, it hits my foot/feet as it/they're coming forward while pedaling. what's wrong here? is it normal to have this kind of clearance issue? will new pedals fix this?

this is just toe overlap, which is extremely common. It's on nearly every bike. You will only have problems when you are at low speeds and steering your handlebars. If you get toeclips, it may keep your foot in the right place as to where it wouldn't hit the wheel, but it may still hit. Don't worry about it because when cornering at high speeds, you don't turn the wheel very much.

[corter]

I had one frame with toe overlap (which i usually don't have, being on bigger frames) and i fucken ate it so many times starting from a stop at lights, or track standing and kicking my tire, random stuff. be careful, just learn to watch out for it (learning curve ftw)