Bicyclettes

[ericdw]

this stuff is mad confusing. other than sheldon brown's page, is there any other online instructions for singlespeed convertions? also, any glossary of bike terms would help a lot too, something that explains what each part is called.

i'm a moron. thanks.

[wild style]

This will be an excellent resource whenever it is finished.

In the mean time, besides Sheldon's site you can check here. Good luck!

[ericdw]

thanks man. i forgot to ask before, but can anyone recommend a good shop in philly to go to for this kinda stuff?

oh, and if i can't figure this out within a week, i'm payin for it - anyone in the area wanna make some money, PM me

[ericdw]

just back from a disappointing trip to a few bike shops near me. some of the guys seemed knowledgable enough, and the general concensus is that i would need to replace the cranks because they're pinned, not screwed in, the rear wheel, all the break cables, and anything rubber. quotes ranged from 200 and up.

i think i'm just gonna take canice's advice and replace the stuff i need to to make it rideable and leave it geared. either that or just take off the derailers and shifters and line the chain up the best i can on the existing gears.

oh well.

[mlproject]

cottered cranks are definitely a no-no for fixed gears. they're not as durable and will be way too flexy under starting/stopping.

on a conversion, i'd recommend changing out:

1. drivetrain - cranks (at least something that's 144 or 133 bcd - you can usually keep newer cranksets on there)/bottom bracket/chainring/cog/chain (run 1/8" chain/cog/ring if you can for durability.. chains do break)

2. wheelset - AT LEAST the rear wheel. running a cog on a road hub w/o a lockring is dodgy

you can run a different front wheel, but most old bikes will have a slightly larger wheel than 700c at 27", so it might ride a little funny. bars/seatpost/saddles are all personal taste.

doing this correctly, you are definitely looking at more than a few hundred dollars. it is generally true that you get what you pay for in bike parts. skimping on costs means you will be breaking shit way faster than you want to be.

edit... also, buy tools and do the work yourself. you'll be learning how to keep your whip properly maintined and you'll save a ton of money in the long run. basic tools:

1. hozan locring wrench ($35ish)

2. cone wrenches for your hubs

3. 1/8" chain whip (buy a 1/8" even if you run 3/32"... wheels manufacturing makes one that's about $25)

4. crank puller ($15ish)

5. park chain tool ($15ish)

6. 15mm wrench for your track nuts ($5ish)

7. allen key set for your stem, seatpost, seat tube bolt, saddle, etc ($5ish)

8. tire levers (pull off your tires to change tubes... $2)

[ericdw]

thanks ml -

i was intending on doing the work myself, but then kinda got scared off when the dude at the bike shop was telling me all the shit that would have to be done to it.

i'm trying to get solid prices on how much it would take to just use my frame but basically switch out the drive chain, cranks, and bottom bracket but they apparently have to rethread the actual frame so it becomes cost prohibitive.

and they're tellin me it's gonna be like $150 to just get the bike into rideable condition without doing the conversion. it's not that far a walk from my place to the park.... lol

[mlproject]

in general, bike shops are pretty expensive on doing vintage work. i'm sure you can do everything much much cheaper.

i don't know why you'd have to rethread the frame. if its french threaded, just get french threaded stuff. its not everywhere like english threading, but its out there. my friend has rebuilt several gitane bikes and the only thing that took forever to find were french threaded sugino 75 bb cups.

[ericdw]

i was planning on, and looking forward to, doing all the work on my own. but i'm not familiar with bikes enough to know how to do much. if it was just a matter of putting spaces on an existing wheel, i could handle it, but i've been told that i'll have to buy a whole new wheel and then have to deel with the crank/axle/bottom bracket replacement.

[knucks]

my bike build is running close to $400 once i buy new cranks/chainring..

[greentalks43]

I would pick up the Spin Doctor Essential tool kit from Performance, its only 50 and it includes almost all the tools needed to overhaul a bike. You can get it here: http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=22310&subcategory_ID=4218

As for it costing 150 dollars to get your bike running without conversion is nonsense. I would pick up some new tires and tubes, which you can pick up for about 40-50 for a decent set of rubbers. Some new bar tape only runs about 10, there are instructions online on how to wrap your bars, its pretty easy and straight forward. And pick up a new chain and some brake cables, as well as some for your shifters that should only run you about 30. Then just carefully take everything apart and in the order you removed the parts and regrease whatever needs it and it'll run smoothe as butter. I would love to own a Peugeot with gears, their lugged frames are beautiful. Its easy to maintain a bike, just pay close attention when taking it apart and you'll pick stuff up as you ride.

[stfuken]

sorry if this is a stupid question.. can fixies have disc brakes?

[Dick Danger]

yup it is, but I guess you could on one end

[TragicBliss]

sorry if this is a stupid question.. can fixies have disc brakes?

Yeah, but disk brakes are heavy and pretty much soley mountain bike and freakish tandem cycling exclusive. You need a new front hub and fork setup as well ass cabling lever system etc. It's expensive and heavy and ugly, which is the exact opposite of what the whole fixed aesthetic is about.

[viv1984viv]

So thought id contribute to this thread, I ride quite a lot, I have 3 decent bikes. This is my "freeride" bike, its great for downhill, but I use it for everything. I do the technical trails round Coed y Brenin ( it worth the extra effort uphill for the tricky bits on the way down ).... ride in scotland too, yorkshire, midlands. Its great for everything. It took a while to adjust to the weight, but now im much fitter and switching back to my hardtail makes me feel like superman! I can do about 30k of off road on this up hill and down dale. I think if i changed tyres I could go further.

This is about 43lbs

7" travel both ends

[TragicBliss]

43lbs? You need a motocross bike dude.

[viv1984viv]

hehehehehe, I knew you guys would find it heavy!

Id like to spend some money making my hardtail lighter, now I have this beast I can sacrifice some of the strength in the hardtail, especially seeing as I only use it as a training, crosscountry sort of thing.

The orange really isnt too bad overall ( up and down ) you just have to up your work rate a smidgin, once you're used to that its ok. In comparison to my hardtail on flat to down hill off road its allways faster, allways.

Just dont use it on the road - ugh..

[vee_dub]

Hey....Just wondering if anyone know whether Mavic produce quality wheels for fixed gear?? Because I am plannng to order some off ebay.

[mlproject]

mavic rims are top drawer. especially open pros.

mavic does not make hubs... or hasn't recently... so you need to pay attention to what the people are lacing to those. most of those wheelsets will use suzue jr./basic/eco hubs which are garbage, but a lot are lacing to formulas which are pretty solid.

[vee_dub]

mavic rims are top drawer. especially open pros.

mavic does not make hubs... or hasn't recently... so you need to pay attention to what the people are lacing to those. most of those wheelsets will use suzue jr./basic/eco hubs which are garbage, but a lot are lacing to formulas which are pretty solid.

Thanks man..well they came with the formula hub???!!! I never heard of them before. With your knowledge any good?

I am such a noob, it really hard to find fixed gear and track part in australia for a reasonable prices. :S

Cheer,

Dub.

[canice]

hubs and rims come in whatever combination you want (well, practically). wheels bought online are usually poorly laced/trued/tensioned, so you will end up having to take them into a shop to be fixed in a matter of weeks/months.

i'd say go into a decent shop in australia, get them to custom order the parts, and have them make wheels for you.

ps: what i would do for a pair of open pros or cxp33s...

[cldpsu]

I hate my friend. His bro gave him a 7,000 Time

[Tyro1]

Thanks man..well they came with the formula hub???!!! I never heard of them before. With your knowledge any good?

I am such a noob, it really hard to find fixed gear and track part in australia for a reasonable prices. :S

Cheer,

Dub.

Hey where abouts in Australia are you? check out www.fixed.org.au

[mlproject]

risers are teh best. i chopped mine to 40cm. wide risers make no sense. they look awful and you can't ride them in traffic.

those eno hubs are way expensive and you only need them if you're running on a new road frame which is dumb anyways.

[Bijan]

My trusty steed: Freschi Super Criterium. SL frame, circa early 80's. Pretty much all Campy Super Record, Cinelli B&S. Rides great, and a really well-built frame- Freschi was an engineer and builder with Pogliaghi when Sante P ran the company. If I could find a set of decals I'd get the stay and fork crown rechromed and the frame repainted.

[canice]

now there's a vintage frame i'd hold on to. gorgeous.

[mlproject]

that is a beaut!

[canice]

put on my summer tires... vittoria rubinos. rolling resistance is sooo much better on these than my bontragers.

[arevalo]

risers for tricks.

drops for the ladies.

[seenmy]

those blue tyres are so so good.

been trying to do my reasearch on this thread and talking to few people i know who ride,gonna get myself on 2 wheels this summer as im moving out of the tiny very hilly city i live in so it finally makes sense to have a bike again.

im not sure if many uk people post in this thread,but from the sites i looked at so far deffinatly seems cheaper to buy from the us.so anyone got any good starter bikes preferably id like to ride flip flop to start so i have the option to get used to riding fixed safely as its been a good 5 years since ive ridden for any period of time.

im pretty tall 6 '5 so any suggestions frame size wise etc be great just so i can get my knowledge up a bit before i start going in to bike shops etc so i know what im looking for.my budget be around $600

thanks in advance for any help.

[vee_dub]

i think u should ride a 60cm.... I am 6' 1 i ride L or 56cm frame. I aint no expert as u can see my nooby question. Hope it helps.

You are actually lucky, cause not many tall tall ppls around, so you can find one very easily. and good luck.

Bianchi Pista is cheap in US not in AUSSIE land.