Jump to content

Bicyclettes


canice

Recommended Posts

No, I think you have a better bike. Those Modolo stems suck, rims are heavy, and threadless headsets are far better than threaded.

What you've got also is called toe-overlap, and even occurs on the highest end of bikes and depends on sizing and how the manufacturer defined the steering. The cure is riding faster and learning how to avoid it when going slow, it is not a problem once you become accustomed to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are there good alternative to holdfast?

kinda expensive for what it is...

it's not that i can't afford it. i feel like there are better and less expensive alternatives

any opinions on the reload ones?

you probably bought something else by now, but here are the YNOTs on my bike

5013901575_ab91d9c2a9.jpg

Feel really good, would recommend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

personal preference really

depends on the set up too. Loose shitty plastic toe clips can be rubbish, but proper metal clips with double straps feel really good.

I wouldnt put straps on a road bike either.

i haven't bought toe straps yet

i think ill wait for holdfast V2s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone recommend me some drops? I'm sure it all comes down to personal preference but after doing some browsing the massive difference in price makes me think twice.

I don't even really know what I'm looking for in a quality set of drops. But it bothers me that I can look at my LBS and find a set for $20 but then look at some euro/asian import for the low low price of $400 dollars.

Is it question of weight and strength? Is that where the price discrepancy is? I did notice that the cheaper ones seem o have a fair bit of flex in them which seems awfully dangerous.

Help me out bros...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super Small Question:

What makes up the difference in price-points among bottom brackets and cranksets?

Like i get that weight is a consideration, and for bottom brackets there's sealed vs loose ball bearings.

but what really makes up the "quality" of these bike parts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sufu fixie braintrust: can you think of any realistic way i can get a 48mm rear chainline out of a 120mm spacing?

i am questioning if any track hubs have enough thread engagement for 5-6 mm of spacers

note - i can't really mess with the front due to clearance.

Depends on your hub, not all are the same chainline. No spacers behind your cog!!! (Unless your lockring won't touch the shoulder.) Some hubs are wide at 45-46mm, some are pretty narrow at below 42mm.

You can switch spacers to the other side and redish your wheel so the hub is off-center towards the drive side more. If there is not enough axle/spacers to make up the difference, respace your rear end wider to add spacers to the non-drive side.

48mm is a really wide for bumping the chainstay, maybe trying a smaller chainring...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...