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Sounds like you got something in your tire that's allowing shit to get in and pop your tubes. I would inspect your rear tire carefully for anything, and glass really is a bitch to find. You might also be over-inflating your tubes too, but I suspect it's your tire if you're consistently fucking your rear.

Also, if you can't be assed to buy a chainwhip, you can alternatively Rotafix your cog on. You basically get your chain off your chainring and torque the cog on my turning your wheel while the chain is held back by the frame. You can use it to remove your cog too if you want to inspect your threads. Make sure your threads are greased properly, too. If you don't have a lockring, get one stat.

Look here: http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

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The guys at Trackstar told me to put max the pressure for NYC riding. Before that I was riding at 100psi. I've changed 2 tubes in a week, the last was a piece of glass, I suspect it was my stock shit ass tires too so I just purchased a Rubino.

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What's good with shorts?

I just won some Garneau Neo Power shorts on ebay for half the price, but wonder if there's anything else you guys recommend? I'm open to bibs, as well

So-so. You'll get a lot of different opinions, but I think Pearl Izumi has really gone down hill.

Sugoi clothes are a fantastic value, I recommend them for lower-mid priced kit.

Dino- don't fret over flats. Super high pressure will lessen your chances of a puncture, but take all the fun out of riding. Having a tire with a puncture resistant belt in it greatly improves puncture resistance.

I didn't have one for probably 4-5K miles, then changed onto a nice Panaracer tire w/o a belt, got a puncture the next day.

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I have a 53 black Mark V and am almost done building my second bike with all new parts. That means I'm thinking of selling the Mark V, either the frameset or complete stock, only 3 mos of use. stunt is anyone looking for a used one? I will gladly sell it. Cheers!

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I have a 53 black Mark V and am almost done building my second bike with all new parts. That means I'm thinking of selling the Mark V, either the frameset or complete stock, only 3 mos of use. stunt is anyone looking for a used one? I will gladly sell it. Cheers!

PM me b/c i'm too lazy to PM you.

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Garneau is okay. They are one of the brands carried by US shops, so they're one of the few you'll be able to try on in most areas.

Their winter fabrics are nice. Summer is okay, and fit is okay. I will continue to get their accessories, but I don't think I'd ever get a pair of bibs or a SS jersey from them.

Don't get shorts if you can have bibs. Wayyy better.

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I have a 53 black Mark V and am almost done building my second bike with all new parts. That means I'm thinking of selling the Mark V, either the frameset or complete stock, only 3 mos of use. stunt is anyone looking for a used one? I will gladly sell it. Cheers!

Picking one up tmrw for the lady.

How tall are you?

Shes pretty tall, so Im pretty sure the stand over wont be a problem.

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i run at 120. i don't know why you wouldn't if you're riding on the street most of the time. way lower rolling resistance. check them ever few days or every time you ride if you ride a lot.

true. honestly just part ignorance and part lazyness. my pump doesnt want to stay on while pumping without my one hand holding it and its pretty tough to squeeze anything else in one handed past 100 psi for me.

i guess ill work on a new method then.

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^thats what im using though... im saying the actual end of the pump (i havent bothered to look up the technical term for any of these things mentioned) wont stay fixed on the tube 'stem/valve' :confused: whatever without my holding it on there, and with my other hand pumping the air, its hard to get much past a 100 reading on the gauge

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Also, if you can't be assed to buy a chainwhip, you can alternatively Rotafix your cog on. You basically get your chain off your chainring and torque the cog on my turning your wheel while the chain is held back by the frame. You can use it to remove your cog too if you want to inspect your threads. Make sure your threads are greased properly, too. If you don't have a lockring, get one stat.

Look here: http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

ok so i read over this and im a little confused as to how this will help my issue, especially since you say get a lockring stat, but the link you posted describes how to secure a sprocket without a lockring?

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ok so i read over this and im a little confused as to how this will help my issue, especially since you say get a lockring stat, but the link you posted describes how to secure a sprocket without a lockring?

Maybe he meant rotafix now (as a preventative measure) if you aint gotta a chainwhip, and in the meantime get all that necessary shit that you need, so you dont strip the cog?

Why wouldnt it help your problem? Your cog is slipping, tightening it up via rotafix, or ideally with chainwhippage + lock ring seems like it should do the trick.

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I would put a lockring on it no matter what. The link says you won't need one, but fuck that.

Also, sounds like your pump has an incompatible head for your valves. Most pumps have heads that work for both Presta and Schrader valves, though. You can get a converter that threads onto your valve for under a buck

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^nah I'm not that ignorant, I have a pump with both heads and I'm using the correct one. Just seems like without holding it on when pumping the air just escapes into space instead of going into the tube, press down harder? Lol maybe I am that ignorant..

Maybe he meant rotafix now (as a preventative measure) if you aint gotta a chainwhip, and in the meantime get all that necessary shit that you need, so you dont strip the cog?

Why wouldnt it help your problem? Your cog is slipping, tightening it up via rotafix, or ideally with chainwhippage + lock ring seems like it should do the trick.

wasn't saying it wouldn't help, just that I was confused with how it would help since I was getting mixed messages..

Looks like I need to just invest in a lock ring already..

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Even w/ the gasket clamp on, most mini pumps won't easily go over 100psi. Frame pump yes, floor pump, easily.

Even a shit $ floor pump will save you time and effort over a hand pump with a tiny barrel.

When using 23mm tire that you gotta pump every day or two, floor pump is a necessity. I like Silcas, but I also have a cheap $25 one that I've had for five or six years and it still is the same even using it all the time and countless races in the trunk...

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You sure you don't have a lock ring on there and maybe it just got loose? Don't you ride a stock steamroller? Id be really surprised if you were riding around for months without a lock ring and have just ran into a problem now.

As for the pump, you are putting the nozzle onto the valve and then flipping the lever up, right? It should be on there good, especially with the floor pump, unless you're running deep v's with some short valve tubes? Just making sure.

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^wowwwwww. alright so i apologize for wasting everyones time..

i do have a lockring, like wild said, it came stock.... so its loose then is the problem? how do i go about taking care of tightening it back up?

also, when i switched out rear tubes im pretty positive i put the back wheel on straight (if its not then it sure as hell fooled me). but could another possibility be that if indeed its actually not aligned perfectly it could be fucking up my threads or something like that? or is that not really much of an issue unless shits like obviously cockeyed and shit?

and i worked out the pump issue so no need to continue with that. just pumped it up to 120 so ill let it sit for a bit and see whats up later on/if i need another new tube or not

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^wowwwwww. alright so i apologize for wasting everyones time..

i do have a lockring, like wild said, it came stock.... so its loose then is the problem? how do i go about taking care of tightening it back up?

also, when i switched out rear tubes im pretty positive i put the back wheel on straight (if its not then it sure as hell fooled me). but could another possibility be that if indeed its actually not aligned perfectly it could be fucking up my threads or something like that? or is that not really much of an issue unless shits like obviously cockeyed and shit?

and i worked out the pump issue so no need to continue with that. just pumped it up to 120 so ill let it sit for a bit and see whats up later on/if i need another new tube or not

You can take it into the shop and get the cog tightened and THEN the lockring tightened with enough torque.

If the wheel isn't aligned your chainline should be really crappy but nothing should really affect your threading of the hub.

Here's a new race picture of me for all yall :) You guys should consider racing cross. It's so fun.

tumblr_ks6doyGr1Y1qzo2o5o1_400.jpg

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