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canice

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No, I understand entirely what you mean, and I don't ever lock and hold a skid, but even just skip stopping, which I end up doing a lot on downhills around here, would wear out your tire exponentially faster if the whole skid patch theory is indeed 100% true.

You'd be skipping on roughly the same spot far more often.

It's not a theory, it's a fact...

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waht the heck is this terminology lol. (180 skid, ballskid)

Fork has nothing to do with it unless it's cut way too short to get your bars to a reasonable height (assuming it's a threadless fork.)

You actually are going to want a longer stem in most cases; a short stem makes you arch your back and 'hunch' as you ride, and it cricks your neck. A longer stem and higher bars will allow for a more relaxed position of your arms and back, taking the strain off your neck.

confused on this statement, wouldnt a longer stem make me "lean" forward more? i should take pictures but dont have a camera on me, i can deal with it (by riding w/ no hands) but i know def. i'll need to make changes.

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word. it would do some good to educate the people in this thread on the concept of skid patches.

so much talk of 48/18, 48/16, 46/18, 46/16, etc.

if you're on a fixed gear, 48/16 is one of the worst ratios you can have!!! and 48/18 is almost as bad!

get a 47 ring or a 17 cog and keep your tires happy!

Theres nothing wrong with 48/18... Its been my favorite ratio so far... Hasnt failed me yet, nor any of my other friends who ride the same ratio...

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Theres nothing wrong with 48/18... Its been my favorite ratio so far... Hasnt failed me yet, nor any of my other friends who ride the same ratio...

48/18 leaves you with only 3 skid patchs.

basically saying that you'll be skidding on the same 3 parts of your tire every time.

But if you get a 17 cog, then you'll always have 17 patches.

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you guys should also remember that if both your cog and chainring have an odd numbered amount of teeth AND you skid altering your forward foot, then the amount of skid patches doubles.

Example:

If you have a 47/19 gear ratio.. that equals 19 skid patches

AND if you alter your feet.. that equals 38 skid patches

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waht the heck is this terminology lol. (180 skid, ballskid)

180 skid? is when you skid and your tire skids a full 180. ballskidz = n3bwzors niggaz leaning on da far to stop at lights.

BTT:you've really been successful in 180 skidding to avoid cars that don't signal? i read that and my jaw hit the floor! i can't do those, and i'm a wuss...so i usually just grab my brake haha

i've done it couple times. it was more of if a car pulled a corner, and i was going to slam into the side of the car, i would whip it hard.

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its a watermelon.

m1sterko, chain tensioning shouldn't cost you a whole lot. For me it cost like 5 dollars but you can probably do it yourself. Before it was done professionally my chain would pop out when I skid or it just falls off. I think it's all a matter of moving your rear wheel to tighten the chains, but I could be wrong. I'm still learning

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so i dont get how "chain tensioning works"

been reading guides but seems way above my head w/o actually seeing it.

any one know how much bike shops would charge? :(

All you have to do is pull the chain side of the axle as far back as possible so that its super taut and then tighten it. After you do that to the chain side line up the other side of the axle and tighten the bolt. BAM done. You don't need to pay someone to do that.

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so i dont get how "chain tensioning works"

been reading guides but seems way above my head w/o actually seeing it.

any one know how much bike shops would charge? :(

it takes a lot of playing around. if you don't have a stand, its easier to do it with the bike upside down. i usually pull the wheel if its in a stand, or i push the back of the wheels towards me if its upside down on the ground. try to get it as taught as you can by pushing it towards you, tighten one nut, and then try to line it up. i line it up with the seat tube for reference. just keep trying to play around, you will probably have to loosen and tighten each of the nuts a bunch of times to get it perfect, since its your first time. i like the chain pretty tight for a fixed gear, and it should be as taught as possible without the chain binding.

if you go to the bike shop that you bought the bike from.. they should do it for free, unless they're assholes. the shop i worked at would do it fo free.

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m1sterko, chain tensioning shouldn't cost you a whole lot.

no offense dude, but that's like paying someone to tie your shoes. i say only time you can pay someone to do work on a track bike is for hs or bb install and wheel building.

everything else is way fucking straightforward.

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it takes a lot of playing around. if you don't have a stand, its easier to do it with the bike upside down. i usually pull the wheel if its in a stand, or i push the back of the wheels towards me if its upside down on the ground. try to get it as taught as you can by pushing it towards you, tighten one nut, and then try to line it up. i line it up with the seat tube for reference. just keep trying to play around, you will probably have to loosen and tighten each of the nuts a bunch of times to get it perfect, since its your first time. i like the chain pretty tight for a fixed gear, and it should be as taught as possible without the chain binding.

if you go to the bike shop that you bought the bike from.. they should do it for free, unless they're assholes. the shop i worked at would do it fo free.

or you could just buy some chain tensioners ($35) and use the allen keys to get your chain perfect in about 2 seconds :)

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or you could just buy some chain tensioners ($35) and use the allen keys to get your chain perfect in about 2 seconds :)

this is what i was mainly asking about.. any more info? or would it be really self explanatory when i get that purchase

btw, any new suggestions for a fork? :x

have no clue whats good or bad (no fixed gear shops around here)

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48/18 leaves you with only 3 skid patchs.

basically saying that you'll be skidding on the same 3 parts of your tire every time.

But if you get a 17 cog, then you'll always have 17 patches.

Oddly enough, Ive only managed to get 1 skid patch.

Not that it matters to me, since I enjoy playing around with my bike parts and wat not.

I dont care too much about how many skid patches I get with this ratio or that ratio, I jus love the way my bike rides...

And its all that should matter.

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So I had a triathlon today and the chain came off my bike 6 fucking times. I was a pissed off motherfucker. My question is quite simply: what was I doing wrong? It came off in granny gear on 3 separate (ridiculous) climbs, 2 times on each one. Is my chain too loose? My deraileur on improperly? Oh wise men, tell me.

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So I had a triathlon today and the chain came off my bike 6 fucking times. I was a pissed off motherfucker. My question is quite simply: what was I doing wrong? It came off in granny gear on 3 separate (ridiculous) climbs, 2 times on each one. Is my chain too loose? My deraileur on improperly? Oh wise men, tell me.

your ft. derailleur needs adjustment. if you don't know how to use the limit screws or adjust the cable tension, then don't even try messing around with it. people try doing it on their own all the time and make it way worse then it began. bring it to a bike shop, the adjustment should only cost about $10.

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Was it a MTB triathlon?

Why, oh why, you'd have a triple on a road bike for racing up anything other than Brass Bald or Mt. Wash is ridic.

Limit screws, friend. If you're in the granny and the largest cog, the chain should almost rub the front mech. If it doesn't, tighten your limit screw until it does, then back it out a little. Also, if the mech is not perfectly parallel or just acute to the chain, it will overshift.

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Was it a MTB triathlon?

Why, oh why, you'd have a triple on a road bike for racing up anything other than Brass Bald or Mt. Wash is ridic.

What in the name of hell are you talking about? It was a road triathlon and I ride an Argon 18 tri-bike, with a 50/36 chainring.

Limit screws, friend. If you're in the granny and the largest cog, the chain should almost rub the front mech. If it doesn't, tighten your limit screw until it does, then back it out a little. Also, if the mech is not perfectly parallel or just acute to the chain, it will overshift.

That's the stuff.

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