SugarCane 1990's M-Series Archive

[Double 0 Soul]

There is a pair of MP on eBay, from Japan.. don’t know what they are.. not cheap either 

Edited October 28, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[Graytrain]

I've picked up some amazing no patch S506s. They are a bit different from each other but I have to say they are my favorite type 1 fit. Ignoring the common style choices of today's repros. It's short. Utterly boxy. 

[Graytrain]

This one however doesn't have a red tab and has some odd black stitching on certain seams. 

[Graytrain]

These have quickly become my favorite denim jackets. Their early white line denim, shared with the M41030, is light and has this amazing vintage crinkle with gray caste. I love it. 

Edited November 5, 2023 by Graytrain

[Graytrain]

And the fit:

 

 

[MJF9]

@Graytrain lovely denim jackets there... great pick ups... I wouldn't mind a jacket in the M41001 denim 

[MJF9]

M41001... just patched by my good lady... which, coupled with the recent and welcome thread activity, prompted these pics...

[Graytrain]

Here is an oddity that I had to pick up. A pair of no patch M41030 but tagged as a M43030. I cannot find any info anywhere on M43030 so it is either a misprint or some lost version. I can't find any discrepancies between the other pairs I have besides the center most coinpocket stitching going up to the waistband. They also fill the gap I wanted in a pair in my size. 

[Graytrain]

And for the full WWII detailed no patch M series fit. Both the same denim from the same era. Absolutely killer. Love the denim, light weight, oxidized blue and gray caste. Love the fits on both. Straight top block, no taper. Jacket is short and boxy. Perfection. 

[julian-wolf]

Perfect fits all around. Would love to find one of those jackets in my size in good condition

[Graytrain]

4 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Perfect fits all around. Would love to find one of those jackets in my size in good condition

Thanks Julian! They do pop up often but it has been pretty rare to find them in newish condition. 

[julian-wolf]

M41057

I’d had an old stock pair of these in the closet for a while still rigid. Could tell they were going to be absolute favorites, but I guess I was just saving them for a rainy day? These showed up on Yahoo for a steal, washed & hemmed short but otherwise like new. Snatched them up w/ the intention of using them mostly for climbing & yard work, since I knew the legs would be too short for regular wear. Really happy with how they’ve been wearing in, and the fit is just about perfect. Makes me look forward to the dead stock pair all the more.

[julian-wolf]

M41119 also coming along well

Good looking, good fitting, well made jeans, but the pockets (front & back both) are too small for me to ever want to use them day to day—so these will forever just be for climbing & yard work too

Just finished up a fun knee blowout repair; meanwhile, I left them outside to dry one night after a sweaty day  & an enterprising squirrel made a meal out of them (I guess it wanted the salt) so there’s still a bunch of little holes around the thighs & seat that I need to patch up. Besides that, plenty of life left

[diggers]

M41400E

Edited November 13, 2023 by diggers

[Double 0 Soul]

Repair looks incredible @julian-wolf.. damn, wish I had those needle skills

[Cold Summer]

"So you think your jeans are cool, huh? Well, I have a pair that was gnawed by a squirrel."

[julian-wolf]

M41027

Don’t know much about these. Seems like pretty much the same exact details, top to bottom, as the MP-619, but in a much wider cut—same hardware and everything. Maybe from early after the switch to M-series? They’re also sized on the smaller end: these are tagged W36 and fit more similar to the W34 of the late ‘90s

Photos taken after a machine wash and one day of wear

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Graytrain]

Damn Julian. I had been eyeing those. They are awesome. Hoping to find a newish pair of the hair-on-hides some day

[julian-wolf]

@Graytrain There’s another pair of M41027 up now in W34, in case they’re still on your mind…

I do actually have a pair of the hair on hides squirreled away, with tags and all, but they’re a couple of sizes too small (tagged 32 or 33, I think), so they’re more likely to end up being my partner’s than mine

[julian-wolf]

M41058 old and new (3ish years / 1–2 months)

The color on the old ones is truest in the angled photos (& the one w/ the dogs) where they appear bluer.

These are my favorite jeans, in a lot of ways, and I’m really glad to have found a second pair. The old ones are tagged W33 and were hemmed to 35.5” when raw by S&S Oakland. They didn’t shrink as much as I expected, and they ended up around 1.5” longer than ideal, so I’ve always worn them with a cuff. The new ones are tagged W35 and had already been washed & hemmed to just about my perfect length when I got them, so they’ve been getting worn w/ a nice clean break.

The denim has held up incredibly well—but the constructional stitching has been the opposite, so I’ve had to go over pretty much every seam, at this point. The only other repair I’ve had to do is to there pocket bag where I carry my keys. Overall, even though I don’t think it’s the main thing that draws me to these pants, I’m really happy with how the denim itself has worn. The puckering, the color, and the little bit of vertical falling are all perfect, and it’s super comfortable right from the start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 2023 by julian-wolf

[Broark]

Usually I'm not a fan of Wrangler style jeans, but those broken arcs are really cool.
Good work Julian, glad you have a second pair!

[MJF9]

@julian-wolf look great unworn and even better well worn... top job!

[Graytrain]

Look amazing Julian. It's true on the stitching, some pairs stand up quite well (year of wear with no breakage) while others need constant attention. It had been so long since I had earnestly worn a cotton threaded pair, I had forgotten what it was like. Like a daily conversation to check in how they are feeling. 

[julian-wolf]

M41200 after extensive repairs (see Repairs thread for details)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[julian-wolf]

& Here’s when they were new, for posterity (I think I must have posted them at the time, but if so I can’t find the post)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Double 0 Soul]

Incredible handy-work there JW.. where did the new denim come from? is it cut from a roll or another pair of jeans.

They remind me of the old patchwork Levi's of the late 60s early 70s.. just need a few Robert Crumb patches.

[julian-wolf]

Thanks Neal. The new denim’s cut from a roll. I don’t remember where I got it for sure, but I think it’s probably old stock from White Oak. Nice mid weight. Had it around for a while—just a yard or so left, so the rest will all be for patches like this. 

[julian-wolf]

Keeping the thread alive w/ WAYWT fit pics (better that than the third page)

When I’m not in Tender these M41027 have still been my main go-to. The xxxtra high rise is crazy comfy

 

[Graytrain]

On 10/27/2023 at 3:38 PM, Graytrain said:

This one however doesn't have a red tab and has some odd black stitching on certain seams. 

An end-of-the-winter wear updates on this one. It has become my favorite jacket yet. Perfect fit and the denim is lightweight so I can layer for mild weather. I ended up wearing this jacket daily. The color and texture is so hard to capture on this denim. Looks almost unbleached with a warm but gray tone. 

[Graytrain]

On 10/27/2023 at 8:58 AM, Graytrain said:

There are so many oddities in the early Sugar Cane pieces. I have several I have to give updates on but I spotted this one in particular that caught my attention an M43030 tag that looks like an M41030. And I cannot find anything on these

 

These also became a nearly everyday companion this winter and will likely be something I wear into the warmer months as they are so lightweight. 

Again the fade is so hard to capture. Unlike anything.