Shoes that look better with age...

[CrashTestBrummie]

Yeah! Great to see the Veldt revival has crossed the Atlantic. They look lovely, riff, and it's great that you have the Rannoch version.

My shoes are waiting for a resole - I'm waiting to talk to John Rushton, as a discerning friend speaks v highly of them, in case they have veldt experience, if not they will be on their way to Ron, who I think CTB has been talking to as well...

Ben, great to see yours have the original laces. Wonder if we can commission some new versions???

New versions of the laces?! I suspect that these are just faded with time...

I've spoken to Ron but elected to send the unbranded boots down to C&J's own cobbler in Mayfair for an inclusive price of £90, which is only about a tenner more than Ron's service would have cost, with postage and packing. They went off this morning, and should be back for collection from the C&J shop in town, in a week.

Ahh, maybe not Kelso. Maybe the Mystery Pair/Lotus that CTB was selling. Either way, still great boots.

I just gave riff a heads-up on these when I saw them. The mystery pair are going nowhere, as per the above, I'll have them back next week with a chunky commando sole for the winter (as Ridgeways are becoming a pain in the arse to find anywhere )

And the Tricker's veldts, which were looking very pretty but not getting worn, have gone to a better home

[Paul T]

New versions of the laces?! I suspect that these are just faded with time...

Don't you feel the need for khaki-ish laces with burgundy aiglets??? (Mine weren't faded, it's was the same colour when the aiglet dropped off.

John Rushton sell lots of Cheaney and AS, my mod friend Graham Marsh has used them for years, and not having to rely on the post does make a difference, as you've pointed out.

I asked Ron if he had photos of any work he'd done, he replied choosing a new repairer is always a leap of faith...

[CrashTestBrummie]

Don't you feel the need for khaki-ish laces with burgundy aiglets??? (Mine weren't faded, it's was the same colour when the aiglet dropped off.

John Rushton sell lots of Cheaney and AS, my mod friend Graham Marsh has used them for years, and not having to rely on the post does make a difference, as you've pointed out.

I asked Ron if he had photos of any work he'd done, he replied choosing a new repairer is always a leap of faith...

Shall I do some digging and see what we can get, regarding custom laces?

I'll get some pics up of the Simonside boots (for want of a better name) next week when they're back, and then the Lotus shoes will be going somewhere for a resole.

A visit to the C&J shop in Brum is always a treat, I originally popped in to get a identity check on a pair of shooting boots (welted) made for Purdey, gunmakers to the upper crust. It'll do for now, until we can sort out that Northampton trip!

[Paul T]

Custom laces? Yes please!

This is my fave colour. I love the contrast...

[CrashTestBrummie]

Funny how your shoes are more chocolate to my caramel...

Incidentally, found out recently that the Lotus veldtschoens were first marketed as golf shoes when they came on the market in 1914. The boot version (with, originally, the apron toe) came about as a trench boot for the First World War.

C&J now do a very similar, though welted, model for Purdey which is beautiful...

[Paul T]

The Purdey is beautiful...

My shoes are in lovely nick, well-conditioned and quite glossy. Obviously been looked after.

[CrashTestBrummie]

Imagine that as a C&J MTO? Veldtschoen with zug and rough-out?

[riff]

Imagine that as a C&J MTO? Veldtschoen with zug and rough-out?

Just. Stop.

[devilish]

I'd be down for a pair of those, although I would need about a year to save up what they'd cost or to sell at least one of my bikes.

I'd also be in for some laces, in both the tan-ish color and that olive-ish green that Paul has. The ones on my Cheaney veldt shoes are by far my favorite lace. It would be nice to get them in boot length also.

[CrashTestBrummie]

I'd be down for a pair of those, although I would need about a year to save up what they'd cost or to sell at least one of my bikes.

I'd also be in for some laces, in both the tan-ish color and that olive-ish green that Paul has. The ones on my Cheaney veldt shoes are by far my favorite lace. It would be nice to get them in boot length also.

C&J MTO is £600 at the moment, or £700 for shoes from their handgrade range...

Most of the MTO lace sites I've looked at have been for trainer laces. The boot-length versions would be a bloody good call, though...

[devilish]

So, in useless American $'s that would be about $1100-1300, which is a fair chunk of change for a pair of shoes. At least for me anyway.

[CrashTestBrummie]

So, in useless American $'s that would be about $1100-1300, which is a fair chunk of change for a pair of shoes. At least for me anyway.

Likewise, especially as I'm used to bargain hunting. Been selling a lot on eBay recently but that's funding a mortgage deposit...

[Paul T]

I couldn't do it, I'm afraid.

Unless I get another book deal, of course...

[tshontikidis]

So I have been poking my head around the thread for advice for shoe polish/care kits? I just picked up my first pair of nicer leather boots, Wolverine 1000 mile in brown, and want to get started right.

[milosz]

Between the last week of September and the first week of October, I should get 2 x White's SDs (black and brown Chromexcel) and Wesco Bosses in the mail. Already have one pair of SDs.

That should take care of my non-construction boot needs for the next 20 years...

[rgray]

riff, (or anyone else)

what models of russell's do you own?

I have seen a few of the chukka's on here (I think morse?) but am curious about other models.

I have been thinking/debating between getting the Safari Short PH boot or some sort of chukka. I want to get a boot that I can wear almost all year, and that can be my go-to for traveling. I think I will stay away from the chunky vibram soles and go with one of the recommended lower profile soles because I find the vibram soles to suck in icy conditions (regina, canada concept)

any input?

[rkusmant]

Between the last week of September and the first week of October, I should get 2 x White's SDs (black and brown Chromexcel) and Wesco Bosses in the mail. Already have one pair of SDs.

That should take care of my non-construction boot needs for the next 20 years...

hefty initial investment....don't forget to share

Paul T, CTB what do you think of AS latest Exclusive and Handgrade line? Any experience?

From recent observation of their blog, they remake 'Culford' into 'Cambridge', the only change is the sleeker last. Other brogues boots get blobbier, getting similar to Tricker's IMO.

I have double monk on order, need formal shoes.... I hope it's done soon, the AS individual/mini group order start mimicking Alden order style, 'unknown' production time...

[lysandar]

rkusmant - I take it that exclusives are the new off-the-racks and handgrades are custom works from the trunk shows?

Funny but I've got a MTO with a local shoemaker that's similar to the Troy but on a medallion toecap. Always did like the Culford, good to hear they're keeping some of the older collection (somewhat) intact. Pity about the veldtschoen stuff though...

[coleslawyum]

I've only handled the AS handgrade line, but I haven't tried them on. The details are pretty on point especially the bevelled waist. The lasts are very elegant, and I do feel the pricing is okay, a bit lower than EG. For welted footwear they are pretty sleek.

The last time I asked they has 3 different lasts that they were using.

[rkusmant]

The double monk I ordered AS 'Ramsey' is from exclusive line but can be customized.

I've always hear good things about the new lines, but would like to get SUFU experts opinion on this stuff, I wish I can attend the truck shows and see them myself.

[mikecch]

Don't know who made it, but it looks alright after a bit more than half a century, so I guess it qualifies for this thread

May need to play around with the leather on the vamp/toe a bit though...

[Happy Hooligan]

nice boots! what make are they?

[mikecch]

^ Thanks mate!

No idea re: make, no marking or stamping except for the boot size, but I know they're Canadian.

The leather is really interesting, appears to be veg. tanned or re-tanned with a moderate growth:

[Happy Hooligan]

If it's canadian I'd wager it's horse.

[mikecch]

^ Oh, that's interesting, how come?

Let me have a closer look at the leather...

[Happy Hooligan]

Just a guess, but pretty much every Vintage Leather item from Canada seems to be horsehide. All their jackets, Hockey gear, so I'd assume their footwear too.

[CrashTestBrummie]

Paul T, CTB what do you think of AS latest Exclusive and Handgrade line? Any experience?

From recent observation of their blog, they remake 'Culford' into 'Cambridge', the only change is the sleeker last. Other brogues boots get blobbier, getting similar to Tricker's IMO.

I have double monk on order, need formal shoes.... I hope it's done soon, the AS individual/mini group order start mimicking Alden order style, 'unknown' production time...

Coleslawyum has come a lot closer to them than me, so can't comment. I've only handled C&J's handgrade line.

The only AS shoes I own are the Edgeware from their 'Classic' line; very nice shoes but I doubt they'd have got past C&J's quality control...

I believe that AS made some of the RTW Gaziano & Girling models, which might give you an insight into what they've done at a slightly higher end.

You're right about the 'blobbiness' of Tricker's boots, it's a shame they've not got more variation in their (country) lasts beyond the near-ubiquitous, 'super boot' 4497S and the occasional 4444.

So I have been poking my head around the thread for advice for shoe polish/care kits? I just picked up my first pair of nicer leather boots, Wolverine 1000 mile in brown, and want to get started right.

Any decent quality conditioner and polish will do; Saphir products are amongst the best in the world but they're hardly essentials. A ripped-up, good quality white tee for polishing, a brush for buffing and a microfibre cloth for shining, depending on your care routine.

Saphir Renovateur is a great conditioner for smooth calf (not the best on grainy leathers though - sometimes end up with a residue if the leather gets wet). A lot of people swear by a (very) occasional coat of oil on their footwear, which will darken the leather slightly. I only use oil on grainy leathers where I can't use the conditioner, and only in extremely small quantities.

[mikecch]

Just a guess, but pretty much every Vintage Leather item from Canada seems to be horsehide. All their jackets, Hockey gear, so I'd assume their footwear too.

I see, thanks for the insight!

So I have been poking my head around the thread for advice for shoe polish/care kits? I just picked up my first pair of nicer leather boots, Wolverine 1000 mile in brown, and want to get started right.

That would be Horween's CXL leather on your boots - it's a very oily re-tanned leather, so it's quite water resistant and won't dry out in a hurry. An occasional layer of oil or oil/beeswax mix will be just fine.

I don't think you'd need polish for the CXL leather any time soon either. It's not a 'fine' shoe leather, and has a rugged variation in colour/tone, so abrasions on the grain can always be buffed away with a little bit of conditioner.

[personicus]

Here are some vintage Bally's, were my grandfather's, then my father's and now mine. Countless soles, gallons of polish, and a few decades of love.

[erk]

We've been really lucky the last couple of years and my brother and I have been able to join my parents in visiting my Grandmother and my Aunt/uncle/cousins in Spokane Washington. My grandma moved out there a few years ago from Bartlesville Oklahoma (as Robbie posted earlier, the home of the Frank Lloyd Wright's Price Tower...one of the weirdest buildings I've ever been in).

Last year I was able to convince everyone to go to White's boots to check it out. I ended up getting fitted for a pair of semi dress and this time visited White's again while wearing my pair. This time we went for the tour of the factory.

I cannot recommend this enough. If you are in the area you really should make an appointment and check it out. Really cool. Unfortunately I am an idiot and didn't bring a real camera. I also kinda felt weird taking pictures, so I just used my phone.

this is where I decided I couldn't live with my self if I didn't take any pictures. This is the repair guy. Hes in charge of rebuilds, resoles, etc... In this picture he's ripping up all the stitching like a mad man. very fast.

these are racks of shoes ready to be repaired.

this is the room where they stitch the soles on. notice the rapid E machines. Our guide (Rob) told us they snatch these things up any time they can. I saw 4 in the room, along with 1 modern replacement (they dont make rapid E machines anymore).

this is one of the finishing rooms - you can see a nice semi-dress there in the window. lots of leather dust.

this is in the White's boots room. All the stitching and hand lasting for White's happens in one room. The hathorn guys are also in the room but off in the corner. They're basically being trained to be White's workers eventually. this is a photo of one of the White's workers hand lasting a boot. apparently all the workers in here make their own thread. pretty cool.

these guys are pounding on heels

this is where the loose laces and stuff get burned off before inspection.

continued...

cross-post from CONExROY