Shoes that look better with age...

[almostnice]

played a bit too much with the contrast?apart from the indigostains not too much happening here.anyway,still looks allright.

[laxlife1234]

Nah, I had my phone on velvia. Which just say vibrant colors for nature photography. Shoes are a bit duller, so I didn't want to bore anyone.

Edit: It just makes the colors more vivid, from my knowledge it doesn't mess with contrast.

[almostnice]

looks not boring at all,just a bit artificial,but thats obviously your phonecam.wear them hard and post updates in a few weeks,youre on a good way.

[Christmas In A Submarine.]

I had my phone on velvia.

kids these days.

[almostnice]

i have my Nikon F2 on Fujicolor Superior Reala 100.

[CrashTestBrummie]

That's good information, thanks. If they're hiking prices they need to get some good partnerships going, and get into the sort of places - the bureau, present - that truckers have moved into.

You seen their collaboration with Fred Perry?

http://www.fredperry.com/limited-edition/men/footwear/alfred-sargent-suede-chelsea-boot.html

I just noticed that Tredders have gone for the price increase...£50 extra now for their Selkirk

[LFC4ever]

Yes - I just got the Culford from them at the reduced price. Missed out on the Selkirk. At £250 and rising I'd probably go for the Grasmere.....

[CrashTestBrummie]

The Culford is on my 'want' list...that, or the C&J Coniston...

[smittybat]

White's came through with an awesome pair of SD's for me. Got them yesterday. I thought the natural edge might be over the top but I think they turned out great. The "Arch Ease" feels more pronounced on these than the pair I got from slide13. That pair had the block heel. BTW I might need an intervention soon if I keep buying boots.

Here's the specs:

Last: Standard

Sole: Vibram 700

Hardware: Antique Eyes & Hooks

Edge: Natural

Leather: Brown Bull Hide

Midsole: Single

Sole Trim: Standard Trim

Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe

Heel Base: Standard

[nicka]

My lady wants like an oxford and is hard on shoes. So I suggested mens instead.

Would love to toss some rep around for some moderately priced, well made options. Size would be like 5.5 in mens, so that's a factor!

try trickers factory store on ebay(UK). trickers1829 is their trading name. they have things reasonably priced- and you can contact them, or the factory store direct- and they'll alert you when they have something you might like. the shoes are seconds- but you'd never know.

sanders are good and reasonably cheap- as are (some) alfred sargent.

if you want to pay a bit more - Pokit- a store in soho(london, not NYC) has some great shoes that look good on women

as do YMC.

hope this helps

NIck

[Paul T]

The Culford is on my 'want' list...that, or the C&J Coniston...

They are both beautiful, admittedly. But have you seen these? Available in larger sizes, too.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300524415340&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I'm holding on because it's really that brown-purple, of the Selkirk or Hoggs Rannoxh that I want, but if I were allowed to go for a second pair, these would be the ones.

[CrashTestBrummie]

Yeah, I saw those recently...wonder who makes them...

[Happy Hooligan]

great looking white's smitty... Can't wait to get mine. Should be any week now..

[denimjunky]

i have my Nikon F2 on Fujicolor Superior Reala 100.

Honestly, thats a real jerk off, init?

Ive got one FM2 and one FE2 and they sure are real beautiful cameras and all but sure far too much work (and money) just to take some shots.

[almostnice]

you answered your own question.it was obviously,init?

[slide13]

smittybat- those look awesome! Very nice. Yeah, I think the Swing last has a lower arch then the standard last, that is probably the difference you are feeling I would guess.

I got my ship confirmation the other day so my British tan SD should be here on Monday....here is hoping they fit. This will be my first pair of standard last in size 11D with the celastic toe....I'm a little concerned they will be too small but my 11.5D have always felt just a touch too big. Unfortunately with White's all you can do is take the gamble and place an order so I did. Hope I don't have to turn around and sell them for a loss but at least now I'll know for sure if I'm a better fit in the 11 or 11.5.

[not too tight]

almostnice digging into people today, I love it,

[Highvoltage]

I just got a killer deal for some Alden 405 from Baker's, if you're in the market they're doing them through email - [email protected].

Thanks for the tip.. I have a pair of 403's inbound. Two pairs of boots in a week. I'm in trouble.

[mikecch]

Yeah, I saw those recently...wonder who makes them...

I remember reading CT shoes are largely made by Loake?

[CrashTestBrummie]

I remember reading CT shoes are largely made by Loake?

Could be...they're pretty handsome boots, no matter what...

[Gold Soaked Afternoon]

After the color mix up about a month and a half ago, I finally got my black Russell Hikers after nearly 6 months. Theyre totally blacked out for whatever reason, thought there'd be brass hardware or something, but whatever. Were incredibly uncomfortable for the first week or so of wear, but they've softened up nicely. Sorry for the iphone picture

[not too tight]

So I know you dudes are all about the Mustang Paste but when I google it the only places that have it are Rakuten or DC4. Does anyone know if they sell it anywhere in the U.S. perhaps in NYC? If not I'll just order it from overseas.

[mikecch]

^ Any horse-oil is fine me thinks. Mustang paste is just horse oil.

[edmond]

mustang oil is the best

[mikecch]

^ As long as the peroxide value is not too high, any pure horse-oil will do fine. I think mustang paste isn't actually 100%...it has some thickeners (?), which makes it easier to use.

I have to say after some experimenting, emu fat works better than horse fat in terms of helping veg. tanned leathers achieve a better (more lively in colour) evo.

Although I don't really think the majority of chrome or oil tanned cattlehide leathers found on footwear warrant horse or emu oil.

[not too tight]

Sent you a pm Mike and I know I know it is a bit extreme but hey these are for my horsehide boots so I thought I'd try and get some horse oil!

[mikecch]

PM received and replied to

@ Paul_T: The (very nice) folks at Eric Spencer are after 65 pounds for shipping the AS Kelso... I might have to have to contact Shoe Healer instead. The Herring Windermere looks excellent also. Spoilt for choices

[Paul T]

as conflicted as I am about other people wearing 'my' boots...

We've discussed Veldtschoen a fair amount over the last few weeks. For the record, here's a quick summary of what's out there. I've also covered some of the zug grain options, which often overlap with Veldtschoen boots. I have left zug grain and country grain brogue boots, as that's a somewhat different aesthetic, with its own infinite options.

Alfred Sargent Seklirk

(The Kelso is the commando sole version). A true Veldtschoen construction. Note the distinctive 'moustache' shape of the vamp, which doesn't extend to the sole. This is common in military-influenced boots. Available from Tredders and others, and have recently shot up in price to around £200-£250. These boot are famously waterproof - and, according to one owner i bump into regularly, tougher to break in than most Brit boots.

Cheaney Pennine

Again, apparently a true Veldtschoen. These cost £270 from RObinson Shoes.

This Commando sole is common for military use, and is called the Itshide, Its Rubber products have been making these for perhaps a century.

Shipton & Henneage Pennine

Are these the same boots as the Cheaney? Look it. They don't state they're Veldtschoen, although my guess is that they are. Shipton And Henneage are an old brand, they've never made their own boots as far as I know, but I've seen S&H Veldtschoen from the 1950s. Not sure who makes these, but I've read that Sargent used to supply - but proved too unreliable. They cost £249 from Shipton & Henneage. Note that, like the Cheaneys, these have a different construction to the Selkirk, and the vamp reaches the sole, more like a normal boot.

Herring Windermere

Again, a true Veldtschoen. Around £250 retail. Made by Joseph Cheaney. Like the Cheaney, these are country grain I believe, not zug - a little smoother. Website is Here.

Hoggs Rannoch

Veldtschoen, Commando sole. I like the speed hooks, too, altho I am aure I've seen photos of them without so maybe there are a couple of versions around. I've emailed to ask who makes, but they won't tell. Note, however, that they have the same configuration as the Selkirk, with that unusually-shaped vamp.

These seem to come in at the old Sargents price, under £200, from various retailers including SD Workwear.

T Jackson

THis comes from a retailer who are active on eBay. Made by Sanders, around £160. Link. Conventional storm welt, not a veldtschoen. THey claim these use the same zug grain leathers as the Trickers, presumably the Grasmere. Note these have a different shape from both the Sargent and the Cheaney/S&H/Windermere.

Crockett & Jones Snowdon

Veldtschoen construction, but conventional waxed hide uppers. Again, you can see the military-influenced shape of the vamp, which has that 'moustache' shape like the Selkirks but sits higher on the boot. Lovely boots, which retail at around £385 from retailers like Pediwear

Trickers Grasmere

Lastly (yes), the Trickers.

These have their own shape vamp, which again I've seen with older Veldtschoen boots, altho I believe these are a normal Goodyear, with a storm welt rather than Veldtschoen (the latter construction normally seems trimmer, too). Around £320 from Pediwear and others

THe Bureau Grasmere Special

A lovely variant. Like many of the Bureau specials, these are pretty keenly priced at £320. The Bureau

[Paul T]

Let me know if you see other zug grain or veldtschoen boots and I'll add details here.

Definitions: Zug Grain is embossed leather, originally based on a swiss tanning method, I believe. These days its used for a grain which is more subtle than scotch grain. Note how the grain is smoother over high tension areas, like the toecaps. It's less porous than conventional leather, often taken from older animals (with thicker skin?) and being more waterproof is often associated with Veldtschoen construction.

Veldtschoen, aka feldschoen, aka field shoe, construction, is according to tradition more waterproof - the upper turns outwards and is stitched directly to the midsole. It is also supposed to be more flexible, and easier to repair. Like zug grain, it's become associated with military boots, and also country wear. There's a diagram of construction here.

Other zug and country grain boots

William Lennon 107F

To try and keep this all together, some more zug grain.

Although they're a chunkier shape, we shouldn't forget good old William Lennon. I bet you could order a zug version of their WW1 boot This is their 107F Zug grain - a bargain, at around £129. William Lennon

Tyrwhitt

THen we have the afromentioned Tyrwhitt. Possibly made by Loake?. I've only really mentioned these as they're available at an attractive closeout price, £139 from the Tyrwhitt site - or £149 from eBay!. Dainite soles & a more conventional construction, rather like the AS Culford.

Alfred Sargent Culford

This is the AS Culford - note they have a more standard construction, and a true toe cap, and are not veldtschoen. Like the Tyrwhit, these are more refined, and rather less military: These retail at around £275, more details at the Alfred Sargent website.

And here are some beautifull MTO Culford, taken from the Ask Andy forum:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?93998-Alfred-Sargent-quot-Kelso-quot&p=1007866#post1007866

AS Culford in burgundy:

AS special order in dark brown zug grain:

pics courtesy clontonf on askandy

Crocket & Jones Coniston

This is a country grain boot, like the Culford. Pic courtesy of lfc4ever.Their website is here.

Vintage Veldtschoen

CTB's Lotus Veldtschoen

Lastly, how can we miss out Ben's Lotus Veldtschoen? Lotus are a defunct manufacturer, well known for making military veldtschoen. Look on eBay and you'll find a lot of beautiful old ads for them.

.

C&J for S&H

Another vintage pair, apparently made by Crocket and Jones for Shipton & Heneage, although these have the more military-style vamp as seen on AS and the Rannochs. Available from Classic Shoes For Men

The seller has a couple of examples (I can't see prices, which scares me) - another C&J for S&H is here: http://www.classicshoesformen.com/shoes/neuwertig-crockett-jones-shipton-heneage-zug-grain-feldschoen-navvy-boot43-435d

These is my own Lotus Veldtschoen. Note the distinctive batwing scalloping,

Tongue construction: note the strip of zug, integral with the uppers, down the middle, and a plain leather for the bellows tongue. These are marked "guaranteed waterproof."

Let me know if you see other zug grain or veldtschoen boots and I'll add details here.

[DocBlue]

thank you Paul

you make my day.

i already want to buy a pair of these...