Shoes that look better with age...

[denimdestroyedmylife]

those roughouts are very cool. just watched the great escape for the first time. great movie.

this week, i polished my cordo boots for the first time. put new laces in that adam from alden of carmel sent me. they look even better now than when they were new-------the whole point of this thread, yes?

[mizanation]

^^^ yes. it's amazing what just a little bit of polish does for shell cordovan. it takes a lot of self-control for me not to overdo it.

[Ralff]

my friends John Lobb's. Crocs.

[mizanation]

^^^ those must cost a small fortune.

[Ralff]

^^^ those must cost a small fortune.

They sure do, i would love to own just 1 for God's sake. And keep it in a trophy case or something.

[GregNYC]

Good thing my feet are too wide for Lobb. Unless I go bespoke. Not!

[fattybfat]

Well, I would have to say Tricker's Stow in Acorn Antique color. Very nice with jeans. I have Malton which is same cut but heavier coarse calf leather. I would have bought Stow but at the time I wanted those "commando soles" and heavier leather.

any tricker's expert here?

Anyone know the diffrence between the acorn antique and the "C" shade??

[GregNYC]

Miz Greek Shoe Guy report - (named Minas) He's the man! He also told me some interesting news/stuff we were talking about (see below)...

He basically made my Indies feel 100% better!

Here's the situation - Indies have a very flat insole, and Alden puts a little leather heel plate down with sponge rubber underneath. It is the perfect thing for the boot. BUT - I feel the edge between the 3" heel plate and the rest of the leather. It feels like I'm standing on a shoelace inside the boot!

So all week I'd been experimenting with various insoles and heel inserts. Too high, too soft, too narrow, etc. One repair guy, Alex in midtown, made some leather insoles with a bit of foam underneath. Too flat and hard at the heel. No other shoes affect me like this, and some line RM Williams have no softness at all, yet they fit like a dream!

So Minas showed me some really excllent sponge pads he has. They were used by Frye to make gripping areas in their leather outsoles. Soft and sturdy at the same time! So he ripped up Alex's leather insole from under the heel, and on the footbed with my advice, placed the shaped and bevelled sponge pads, then replaced the leather insole. And glued everything back in place.

WHILE I WAITED!

They feel much better now. And he's the nicest, most knowledgeable and most courteous shoe repair guy I've met in NYC. He didn't want to charge me, but no way Jose!!! I introduced myself as Miz's friend, and he said "Yes I know him, he's funny!" And Minas's daughter said, "Yes, he always comes in and asks a lot of questions. Like you. You guys appreciate good shoes, classics. Not so many people do."

Minas told me that Cat's Paw was bought up by Vibram and isn't putting out too many things these days. He's gonna try to get a catalogue. He asked why I wanted these? I told him that we're interested in classic shoes from the 40's 50s and 60s. He said "Ah, yes, well I still have some old soles from them, but not much new is coming out. Let me know if you want to see them."

He also said that Allen Edmunds has about the best construction he's ever seen in a shoe. He loves Leeds. Alden is very good too, but more for their materials.

That's it for the roving shoe shop reporter!

[Chicken]

^ nice! some golden information. i'm thinking cat's paws for my indys.

[mizanation]

awesome, i'm glad you've become friends with minas the great greek cobbler.

he's something else, ain't he? i'm glad your shoes feel better now, man. it sucks to get a pair of shoes that are perfect except for one area of the fit.

lots of good new info, thanks greg. everytime i go there, i learn something new.

*EDIT* i think it's time for a little interview on my blog with him. i'll take lots of pics.

[moykky]

any tricker's expert here?

Anyone know the diffrence between the acorn antique and the "C" shade??

Well I'm not an expert but I can tell you that they are color codes. Acorn antique being that color in the picture you quoted and 'C' shade is a darker one (my Maltons are of that color).

[corbu]

TrappedinDC or rnrswitch

can we get some updated pics of the Brando boots? I'm interested to see how they've aged so far.

[GregNYC]

There is this place Greg http://www.shoestringuk.co.uk/Public/publicLaces_1.html?laceType=111 doing different widths and lengths however they're in the UK. If you don't find an alternative source in the US and want a hook up just lemme know.

The site looks pretty good. I'll try to find these in the US and let you know if not. Thanks!

[rnrswitch]

TrappedinDC or rnrswitch

can we get some updated pics of the Brando boots? I'm interested to see how they've aged so far.

I can post some pics this weekend. The Brandos look amazing now. The soft tan leather has aged to a darker brown and the leather softened up quite a bit. I have used Obenauf's leather conditioner on them to keep them soft and clean. Great stuff really.

[twistedtrees]

I like the Steve McQueen packaging, but this last has kindof a wierd shape:

All I gotta say is 'lol'

Hey now, I have funny shaped feet too. These would fit me perfect. My big toe is always rubbing the inside edge of all my shoes/boots. I've been looking for something like this.

[GregNYC]

My feet tend towards duck-shaped, so no doubt these would be comfortable. Which is why I can't wear John Lobb or other uber-elegant shoes - they're too skinny for me! So I try to maximize between comfortable-ugly and painful beauty.

[aubrgene]

My feet tend towards duck-shaped, so no doubt these would be comfortable. Which is why I can't wear John Lobb or other uber-elegant shoes - they're too skinny for me! So I try to maximize between comfortable-ugly and painful beauty.

Greg- I have wide feet too. I got my C & J "Coniston" last week and they fit me like a glove.... I found them more comfortable than my Red Wings 1908. Thanks for your recommendation.

[Tarmac]

Just got these Paul Smith Brogue Boots, model Sundance.

edit: moved to recent purchases>super shopper

[GregNYC]

Aubrgene - cool! Did you get brown or black? I'm thinking of the brown too - whaddya think of it?

[dave023]

Greg- I've just ordered the red wing 1911 from Dejan, I know you had them for a while, how would you take care off this boots,what color would you use for polishing etc.

Thanks for your help.

[GregNYC]

1911's - The first question would be - are they gonna be beaters, worn all the time, in the rain and mud and whatever comes along? Or will you treat them more carefully? If you plan to let them get wet and stuff, I'd get something to protect the welt, keep it natural colored and prevent it from darkening. The light color of the welt is one of the cooler, more retro features of the boot. To protect it, you can best use thin coats of Sno Seal or Louisville Slugger baseball Glove cream. Apply them with a toothbrush, rubing into the leather and threads. This way if they get wet, they won't darken.

On the uppers, I'd use paste wax like Kiwi, and go back and forth between clear Kiwi and light brown, with a dark brown or oxblood coat every 4th time or so.

If you want a high shine, after you brush the polish, finish it off with a nylon stocking over your hand. I go to the drug store and get a box of women's knee-highs. Put it over my hand and lightly rub over the surface of the leathe. Brings the toes and heels to a mirror shine very quickly. Old-skool spit-shining is an art, and even in the military not everyone masters it. airfrog can probably attest to that! Good luck!

[axtsang]

I like the Steve McQueen packaging, but this last has kindof a wierd shape:

It looks like a pizza pop to me.

[GregNYC]

Tricker's report - I went to Nom de Guerre today. Like someone said, very expensive boutique-y. I looked for selvage among their various jeans and didn't find a single pair.

But they did have a few models of Trickers, including the Stow:

They had some custom ordered with a nice chunky, knobby Goodyear commando sole. I preferred leather, but I tried them on anyway. The 10 was too large in every direction, and the 9 was too small. The instep was too low, the boot too narrow for my foot.

But the worst thing was that the construction wasn't worthy of a boot costing over $600. The rubber of the heel was not quite attached flush with the leather midsole. I'll try to illustrate with a cut-out photo from my Indies:

The heel right here where it attaches to the sole:

It was flaring off a little bit - I could see air through the gap. So, I'm waiting for Crockett and Jones's Skye to arrive! Don't think I'll be buying Tricker's anytime soon!

[dave023]

1911's - The first question would be - are they gonna be beaters, worn all the time, in the rain and mud and whatever comes along? Or will you treat them more carefully? If you plan to let them get wet and stuff, I'd get something to protect the welt, keep it natural colored and prevent it from darkening. The light color of the welt is one of the cooler, more retro features of the boot. To protect it, you can best use thin coats of Sno Seal or Louisville Slugger baseball Glove cream. Apply them with a toothbrush, rubing into the leather and threads. This way if they get wet, they won't darken.

On the uppers, I'd use paste wax like Kiwi, and go back and forth between clear Kiwi and light brown, with a dark brown or oxblood coat every 4th time or so.

If you want a high shine, after you brush the polish, finish it off with a nylon stocking over your hand. I go to the drug store and get a box of women's knee-highs. Put it over my hand and lightly rub over the surface of the leathe. Brings the toes and heels to a mirror shine very quickly. Old-skool spit-shining is an art, and even in the military not everyone masters it. airfrog can probably attest to that! Good luck!

Thanks for your advize!!!

At first I'll treat them more carefully but I know they'll end up as beaters.

Dejan told me I should get them tomorrow...that guy gives such a great service, its almost unbelievable.

[synthi]

Nice info there Greg. I checked out the Stow once again, just last week. I liked it a lot but after spending some time up close polishing the Skye's, I can now definitely appreciate the finer nuances that set them apart. On the related point, they've developed this amazing patina which led me to try to research antiquing shoes. I didn't get very far - any ideas anyone?

[GregNYC]

Antiquing is something I've never done - there is some info in the StyleForum's Shoe Porn thread. Using different hues of polish on different parts of the shoe. I know how to do this very well. What I don't know is what looks "right." On one hand you want the surface to maintain the shine and not dry out. On the other, you want a combination of colors that look like they were acquired through the years. It's something I've never done....

[aubrgene]

Aubrgene - cool! Did you get brown or black? I'm thinking of the brown too - whaddya think of it?

Greg--- I got the black one. I really, really like them a LOT. I have several brown semi-boots already and I need a black one. The fit is perfect and the leather is soft. I've never seen the tan in real life but from the photos I've seen it looks nice.

[skalogre]

Antiquing is something I've never done - there is some info in the StyleForum's Shoe Porn thread. Using different hues of polish on different parts of the shoe. I know how to do this very well. What I don't know is what looks "right." On one hand you want the surface to maintain the shine and not dry out. On the other, you want a combination of colors that look like they were acquired through the years. It's something I've never done....

I have done it. Not as hard as it may sound (most prominently on those wholecuts I have posted on SF before); the only problem is keeping some sort of stable colouration but that depends on many factors. There are indeed a few posts and threads on the subject over at SF, don't remember where exactly right now...

[synthi]

Thanks guys, will get searching on SF.

[GregNYC]

I got some antiquing tips from Cindy at Crockett & Jones, will post later. Plus - a surprise!