BS United Oni Denim Pics

[Blue Nemo]

!!!

 

took the jacket out of customs today. here is a thing i experience all the time i get to that place, customs workers are assholes, seriously...

 

my first impression of the jacket:

 

this thing is alien, no other way to put it. you can not even call the denime's texture slubby or neppy, its chaos incarnate!

the denim is smooth, smells a hell of a lot like storaged in a warehouse, or maybe its just the dye, am no expert here.

due to the one wash process there is already a lot of indigo on the loose and its easy to spot lighter shades of blue allover.

you can feel that its 20 oz (or 22 oz after the ow process, doesn't really matter), you just feel there is a lot of cotton into this jacket.

but, and that did cander mention, it doesn't feel solid, its almost delicate and shy to the touch. obviously, its not made to last. so far i haven't got my head around how to feel about this, whatever.

the construction is okay, i have seen a lot jackets cut and sewn together better, meaning cleaner, but there are a lot of worse examples also.

the shade of the color reminds me a lot about the customized levis type 3 ryan gosling wore in DRIVE. love both!

the hardware is cool, i always liked laurel buttons, and in a direct comparison, they are set way better into the denim as all of the buttons of my rising sun jacket. the leather patch looks great, feels dry and hard, have touched better too. its goatskin i think, nothing wrong with that. its tanned nicely of course, and wearing that screaming devils mask directly at your neck gives me a funny feel.

 

the best part about the jacket, besides the denim, is definitely the fit. i never wore a denim jacket that fitted me better. its slim fitting allover but with enough space for my chest and big enough armholes to be not at all restricting. the length of the body is perfect, sits on my belt,  and the length of the arms is just perfect too, not too long, nor too short.

 

if i change my mind about something, i will write it down.

will post some pictures when there is a decent camera around and enough time too.

so far i don't regret buying it, although the denim is even too much for a guy like me that sticks to simple things :-D

[Max Power]

Can't wait to see it in person. Nice write up but make sure to take some pictures already

[aquino]

Thought I'd share a few pics of the jacket shot under natural lighting. 

 

[Geeman]

Looking good aquino

[Max Power]

The arms look pretty wide, just like on my 70s Type III.

[Blue Nemo]

they're not wide, your arms are just thin

 

hehe

 

i actually got around to take some close ups during the fish n chips trip, but now i am missing this adapter/cardslot/port/reader/something and can't upload them...... yay!!

[Blue Nemo]

eureka!

 

totally random though, better pictures later:

 

 

[Blue Nemo]

So, now after some days of actually wearing that jacket for real I have to adjust my review!!

First

The sizing is still great. It is a modern fitting slim jacket. I can wear it with a Longsleeve and a sweatshirt on top and still feel comfortable. But it is a bit restricting around the chest and shoulders areas. So I can understand why Aquino up sized , but doing so you loose the modern character of that jacket. And yes, max is right, compared to the rest of the jacket the arm sleeves, especially around the biceps, are veery wide.

Second

The denim is plain awesome. At first I called it delicate and what not, but after some days of serious wear and tear it holds up great. In the end it was me feeling shy about the denim, not the other way around. It feels strong. I am sure that this jacket is going to be my favorite for a lot of years. As long as I don't get fat, that's for sure. I can already see some faded areas, this denim fades really fast! And one other thing, the denim doesn't really stretch back much. You can get some, but I doubt you get more than an inch in the chest, or less, and maybe half an inch in the shoulders. I will measure mine to give you exact numbers later.

Fit pics will follow later as well!

[Blue Nemo]

not really a fitpic, maybe 1/2 of it due to the ankle. but right now i am too busy doing stuff and find no time to do it myself & properly. but maybe you get it anyway. the lighting is great though, true to colour.

 

[Blue Nemo]

A couple of more pics

The last one is true to colour

[KrisB]

Can't wait to see that in a year or two ^

[Blue Nemo]

Can't wait to see that in a year or two ^

I am eure to get fades on this particular Denim in one year that equal fades of three years!

At least I to wear it as often as possible, which is early morning or late afternoon with this kind of weather....

[KrisB]

are you planning on joining the dtwc with that?

[Blue Nemo]

No, got too many jackets already that I rotate, besides, with all this taking pictures and stuff I am on my limits :-D haha

[renindra]

guys, please kindly help me, a little bit question about size

I'm interested in oni 517, the 14oz version, say if I compare it to the sizing of sams (710xx in case), how do I size?

from my observation on size charts (BiG, Denimio), I think I should take one bigger size than the 710xx?

so basically what I'm saying is, if I'm wearing a 29 s710xx, should I wear a 30 on the 517 denim to make it fit properly? or 29 will do just fine?

thanks in advance

[Blue Nemo]

I'd go with a 28 in the oni 517 as they seem to generally run 1" larger than the SAMs. Don't think I am of a big help here as I own neither of the jeans......

one should also keep in mind the difference between both models front and back rises measurements!

I was on BiG only btw

Edited July 27, 2015 by Blue Nemo

[d-rew12]

My 288's/Blue fit came in today and man, the fabric is insane. I grabbed the one wash and they are pretty damn soft too. Not sure how I feel about the fit. I'll probably sit on it for a few days (I also didn't really need these either...), then decide but again the fabric is beautiful. I love the color in person. 

[spitfiredealer]

Close up of mine. Fading fast

[Blue Nemo]

promising, promising..... the texture gets sicker & sicker by the minute!!

[aquino]

A couple weeks ago I decided to give my 3 month old 512xxBE a handwash with a little Dr.Bronners. I'm really enjoying how the flecks of highlights emerge from the peaks of the slub on this pair. Not a particularly dramatic change from pre/post wash which is ideal since they're still pretty early on. 

 

(pre)

 

(post)

[Wörn75]

^Proper!

[tion4->]

Just pulled the trigger on a pair or 517 14oz. Got the same size as I wear in my Samurai 710 (33)...the 517 are a bit bigger pre-soak, but sounds like I'll get more shrinkage outta them. Hope it works out!

More to come...

[aquino]

When I saw that they were releasing the secret denim in the 512 silhouette I couldn't resist.  It might be my favorite denim they produce, it really feels like something demonic is woven into the fabric. Got the 502zr size30 raw and the fit is almost identical to my 512xxBE after an initial hot soak. Anyways, here are some fit pics. 

 

 

compared to my 527

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Great fit!

YOu have the right build for them

 

and your 527 don't look bad either

Edited August 12, 2015 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Blue Nemo]

yeah, perfect fit on those!

nice collection you got yourself there!!

[spitfiredealer]

Great fit. Nice to see some examples of the secret denim faded too

[aquino]

Thanks guys. Now I just have to wait for the weather to get a bit cooler around nyc so I can break out my secret denim tuxedo haha. 

[rickstarr]

Did you go TTS on these? Thinking of bying the 502zr but not sure which size i have to get.

I have a 29 waist. The thigh measurements on these differ so much from one sizechart to another.

The sizechart from denimio i can barely fit my thighs in size 30 and the sizechart from BIG i can easily fit in a 28.

 

 

When I saw that they were releasing the secret denim in the 512 silhouette I couldn't resist.  It might be my favorite denim they produce, it really feels like something demonic is woven into the fabric. Got the 502zr size30 raw and the fit is almost identical to my 512xxBE after an initial hot soak. Anyways, here are some fit pics. 

 

 

compared to my 527

 

[aquino]

I sized these the same as my 512xxbe which I got in 30o/w, and they've pretty much stretched back out to raw measurements. I wouldn't say these were sized tts I mean the tagged size 30 is 34" waist raw and pretty much stretches back to that after a couple wears post soak. Using a measuring tape my actual circumference where the jeans sit is around 34/35inches. Just depends how tight you want them I suppose. Generally I'd trust the BiG size chart.

[rickstarr]

Do the thighs also strech back to raw measurements?

If so can get away with a 28.