Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[Snake]

Rnr – After giving it some thought, I am not sure the selvedge details along the sleeve is wasteful especially if you consider the way the sleeve is sewn together. I think it may be quite efficient on FW/BR’s part. A roll of selvedge fabrics has the selvedge on both sides, right? How come most shirts only have selvedge on the gusset? One would think that you can cut the pattern to incorporate more selvedge details. I’ve seen Samurai and Iron Hearts shirts have selvedge along the placket and cuffs but most selvedge shirts don’t have that. What happen to them I wonder, just end up on the cutting floor and thrown away?

[rnrswitch]

Rnr – After giving it some thought, I am not sure the selvedge details along the sleeve is wasteful especially if you consider the way the sleeve is sewn together. I think it may be quite efficient on FW/BR’s part. A roll of selvedge fabrics has the selvedge on both sides, right? How come most shirts only have selvedge on the gusset? One would think that you can cut the pattern to incorporate more selvedge details. I’ve seen Samurai and Iron Hearts shirts have selvedge along the placket and cuffs but most selvedge shirts don’t have that. What happen to them I wonder, just end up on the cutting floor and thrown away?

Well, on a fitted shirt (one with a lot of curves), there isn't many "straight" parts of the pattern. This is most likely why the selvedge is not used, except on the placket, cuffs, and the gusset. There is that LVC duck jumper that has selvedge everywhere, but this is because of the boxy shape of the shirt. On traditional selvedge fabrics (which I assume Freewheeler's is using) they are 30 to 36" wide and after cutting out the pattern for the front right/left portions and back of the shirt, there isn't much space left so that the portion of the fabric with the selvedge is wide enough to be usable, but I think that there is probably enough left to construct those long slivers of fabric used on the underarm of the sleeve.

A little math:

A shirt for a 40in chest, measures about 21in across when laid flat, then you need to add about .5 inches to both sides for seam allowance, which is 22in total. This leaves anywhere from 8in to 14in of selvedge lined fabric on the sides.

Yeah, it is either a very subtle genius pattern cutting/design or wasteful construction, but I think it is probably doable. On larger shirt sizes like 18 or 19, it may not be doable, but they don't offer shirt sizes that large, right?

I think they also reuse scraps of old nice fabrics for plackets and lining, which does save fabric.

[Snake]

I see. Very nice breakdown. Someone rep him for me.

I was looking at how the sleeves are sewn together. Maybe Freewheelers' sleeve design, with two smaller pieces of fabric sewn together instead of one big piece, allows the use of selvedge lined fabric that's leftover.

[marineabilly]

I take it Warp & Woof falls into the "etc" part of this thread? I read somewhere on SuFu that John (Lofgren) is able to sell this brand if one asks. Is this a true statement? I'm trying to get my hands on something and he might be my gateway.

PM me, please, if you have any info.

Cheers!

[SLAB]

never mind

[rnrswitch]

I take it Warp & Woof falls into the "etc" part of this thread? I read somewhere on SuFu that John (Lofgren) is able to sell this brand if one asks. Is this a true statement? I'm trying to get my hands on something and he might be my gateway.

PM me, please, if you have any info.

Cheers!

John does carry Freewheelers stuff. I don't know if warp and woof are them as well. John did say he could do special orders from them if there is still stock of the item.

[DocBlue]

[Guest Hobaud]

In progress of buying a house so no money to spend on clothing at the moment. I hate you all.

[rnrswitch]

In progress of buying a house so no money to spend on clothing at the moment. I hate you all.

Wait, you can't wear a house can you?

[Guest Hobaud]

U are right. Let me put the down payment for the house to buy Freewheelers leather jackets and sleep on the street!!!

[rnrswitch]

Now that sounds better. Put some good wear into that leather, like a real life Neal Cassady.

[DocBlue]

[DocBlue]

bubo shirt

[fardin]

beautiful doc

[lostinthesupermarket]

Looks great.

What's the fabric Doc?

[rnrswitch]

Which bubo shirt is that?

[lostinthesupermarket]

The Sag Harbour one maybe?

It fits pretty slim for a pullover which is nice.

[Guest Hobaud]

Nice shirt Doc!

[DocBlue]

you are right Lostinthesupermarket

sag harbor

[Guest redchris]

Sold my Mr Freedom CPO to get this

Will post fitpics soon as I summon up the willpower to stop looking at it

.edit : John Lofgren at speedway got it to me.

[rnrswitch]

I have been contemplating picking that one up. I have the conductor and really want that one as well. So hard to find that type of quality fabric from other companies. I keep resisting though.

[zissou]

man, what a nice shirt, redchris.

[SLAB]

beautiful shirt redchris; I wanted the polka dot version for a long time but since they are quite pricey i never got around buying one

[58panheadfan]

1911 TRACKWALKER Shirt - WABASH STRIPE

Still available here:

http://www.thewildone.jp/SHOP/BOOTLEGGERS-1911TRACKWALKER_Shirts_WabashStripe.html

Stock info says:

1x size 14, no 15, 1x size 16, 1x size 17

http://www.thewildone.jp/SHOP/stock.cgi?ITEM_NO=BOOTLEGGERS-1911TRACKWALKER_Shirts_WabashStripe

Hurry!

[rnrswitch]

Stop tempting me. I have almost had john from speedwayshop special order the size 16 for me multiple times. I just never hit the send button for the email.

I have almost picked these babies up as well.

[Snake]

Trackwalker Linen Chambray

Bootlegger Reunion Type 41 Herringbone Trouser

[SLAB]

'You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Snake again.'

'nuff said

[edmond]

where to cop bl fw stuff ? john is not responding

[DocBlue]

where to cop bl fw stuff ? john is not responding

send a mail at Fuji at the wildone.....

[edmond]

ok illa sk those guys... thanks doc