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half selvage vs full selvage


OhSoStylish

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  • 3 years later...

Update, in case anyone disinters this thread.

Lee might have moved to half selvage because the shape of the jeans changed. More likely a factor, though, is that Lee were probably using wide loom denim from the 50s.

Draper introduced a new loom, the X-3, which while otherwise functionally identical to its predecessors, could produce fabric in a 60 inch width, by 1952 or so - it was very popular, because it was very efficient. This model makes up most of the selvage looms that are still around. By the 60s, according to Cone, most denim was probably being produced on wide, shuttle looms. No-one apart from Levi's considered showing the selvage on the busted seam important. LVC denim today is made on X-3 looms which have been modified to a narrower width.

I have looked thru paperwork with Lee's archivist, we weren't sure, but it's possible Lee's move from double to single to no visible selvage wasn't consistent - it might have varied from batch to batch, it certainly varied from model to model.

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