Denim

[RedFoxxworth]

I meant is the actual source of the denim in APC's French? Or Japanese, or Italian?

"He also forced everyone, small and great, rich and poor, free and slave, to receive a mark on his right hand or on his forehead so that no one could buy or sell unless he had the mark, which is the name of the beast or the number of his name. This calls for wisdom. If anyone has insight, let him calculate the number of the beast, for it is man's number. His number is 666" (Rev. 13:16-18).

[ringring]

Japanese.

[moreno]

regarding Kurabo i desagree with you because I tested the Chinese Kurabo and the Japanese one.

The Japanese fabric has higher quality

Do you know bonzani?

[ac22]

The actual manufacturing process is bascially the same for a $200 pair of jeans to a $29.99 pair. however there are a few differences. Generaly denim used for the $29,99 pairs is aprox $1.76 to $2.00 usd per yrd. Most brands that sell their jeans at a higher price are using denims that are more rare or less manufactured. they range from $2.50 to $7.00 (for some top end Japanese denims) per yrd. Making costs (CM) is very close, washing is a little higher on a better jeans as well as the trims.

However its not just the actual cost to make that determines the true value. A low volume brand has to account for less overall sales, more advertising, PR etc. these are the things that determine the cost.

As a denim maker, i can make top top end jeans for less then $10 usd. but this should not be a factor when wondering if the jeans are worth it or not. 1) jeans pass through many hands before going to the final retailer and everyone in entitled to make thir profit 2) think of Jeans like art. it maybe only $5.00 in paint but its the thought, the artistry and the final product that determine the price.

Edited by ac22 on Feb 24, 2006 at 07:40 AM

[ddohnggo]

may i ask what jeans brands you've made jeans for? what are the steps that need to be made before contacting someone like you to make jeans?

[ac22]

Generally i keep the clients private as everyone wants their new styles kept confidential but to give you an idea i make anything from the $19.99 B.U.M walmarts to the $120+ parasuco's. but i work with about 20 or so brands.

If a new client were to contact me all he/she needs is 1) a tech pack on his style that lists everything from what thread and trims that will be used to details regarding the fit and wash 2) the quantity required 3) ability to finance the project either via L/C or TT.

Many of my clients will simply give me a pant and say make this one again. so we take apart the jean, study the denim, do the fit grading etc and remake it but with the clients personal touch. Its realy just depends on what you require.

Edited by ac22 on Feb 24, 2006 at 08:11 AM

[LA Guy]

Quote:

dont think they sell online anywhere else. it's a pretty niche brand, and as said by others - very pricey. i don't even think after market sellers will touch it.

--- Original message by misteraven on Sep 8, 2004 06:11 AM

R by 45RPM can only be bought at their stores, even in Japan (don't actually know about the last part - heresay only). Great jeans, though I can't afford a pair myself... For much cheaper, and if you are looking for something different from Nudie and APC (bth of which I really like, btw) Engineered Garments makes are really nice selvage jean.

[macuser3of5]

I think Helmut Lang's cut is more than worth the money I've paid over the years. Thankfully the label hasn't gone up in value since the 2005 blowup, so I manage to get a few pairs for under $100 each.

[giantreptile]

gotta love revived threads! hello superdenim! anyway, i can't agree more about helmut lang. single-handedly re-acquainted everyone in '98 with straight leg dark denim.

[emrinderForgotHisPassword]

this thread was so much more interesting than anything thing i've seen in a while.

love minya

[rabka]

where them o.g's at

ak

[stuff586]

HELP needed to settle an argument.

Can someone tell me if there are different types of Denim, as in different weaves.

Or is demin always exactly the same weave, only changing the weight and color?

Also, is there a classic denim weave I.E one which has been used for many years?

I would much appreciate it if someone could point me to a website which shows you different weaves of denim.

Thanks

stuff586

[denimdestroyedmylife]

glad this thread was revived, learned a lot, but damn, do you have to post the same question in two different threads???

shhh....

[stuff586]

Yes, because it gives a better change of a reply and is generally an accepted practice as long as it is not too excessive. However, if supertalk runs a different shop to other boards then in future I will post once only.

[denimdestroyedmylife]

ouch

shhh....

[tweeds]

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=9640 might help you out.

btw that exchange up there between ringring and the other guy? Very funny, but very useful.

[Yet Fung]

Stuff586,

First off, you should probably search these forums for your answers, but if you haven't try www.olah.com for quick facts/history on denim.

Also from my limited knowledge, there's 3 directions of weave, left twill, right twill and broken twill. It's pretty easy to determine the direction of your fabric, but I've never seen broken twill. The threads that run parallel to your legs are called the warp and are indigo-dyed. The threads that run perpendicular to the warp are called the weft and are not indigo-dyed. Because you see more indigo on the outside of the jean, this means that the warp threads are woven over more weft threads than under. I think the most common ratio is 2over:1under but sometimes it's 3:1.

[denimdestroyedmylife]

styleforum is back!

::air guitar::

shhh....

[Paul T]

Broken twill is actually quite common, first used by Wrangler, but used on a lot of women's and kid's clothes. Feels quite soft, and cowboys like it because it holds starch well - you can get a nice sharp crease down the middle!

[Yet Fung]

Thanks for clearing that one up Paul, I hate not knowing things.

[tweeds]

Returning to the original topic: it's funny, because when i was out with friends today, wearing my new standards, they asked me why i'd pay 120 for a pair of jeans. Interestingly enough, alot of people seem to judge jeans by their back pockets--i reckon if you held up a pair of understated APCs and a pair of Antiks, people might take the Antik even though the APCs are way less expensive and maybe better constructed.

So what's in it for you guys? The feel of denim on skin--the second skin that nudie talks about? The cuts? The brand name?

[Yet Fung]

I think most people like more than one aspect, but I'll rank mine:

1: Fabric & Cut

2: Finishing Details

3: Wash (if any)

4: Exclusivity

5: Brand

[cheapmuthafukr]

bump for a great thread

[holotekor]

wow cheap, you bumped this thread almost a year after the last post.

[rhenchsauckit]

bump

1 1/2 years (watch as i turn to repugnant)

[Future Denim]

I have bought a few pairs of Ernest Sewn jeans. My first pair for $210 that were really delicate and we prone to tears, but I didn't give up on them because later I got another pair for a good deal. The second pair torn in the knee all too easy. Now I stay away unless I see a pair for $20. Not worth the price tag at all.