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Thoughts on Oliver Twist style?


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This is entirely random as I don't really have a true 'category' to describe the type of dress I'm envisioning. Lately I've become bored with the Rick Owens/Julius slouchy dark look and started riffing off it with the baggy pants tucked into boots.

I finally realized that the style I was shooting for was more last century and have been trying to find more shit that would fall into this category. I guess I would best describe it as british 1800's influence? Am I the only one who finds this stuff intriguing?

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I saw a bit of this stuff back in the Costume National f/w 07 line:

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Lots of tweeds, a muted palette of greys, greens, and browns. Classy coats, sometimes oversized, and some swagger to ensure you don't look entirely serious about the whole thing.

Seems like a natural progression from the Japanese designer stuff everyone is craving.

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my girlfriend tells me Julius is a bit Oliver twist, the jackets anyway.

Im sure you would look kinda like that if you just bought some relaxed fiting cords or felt trousers to go with a distressed jacket, and layer it to hell and back?

Neckties

Waistcoats

I guess you dont want it to look too clean or sharp so go for textures and looser cuts?

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I'm definitely feeling the Artful Dodger's name (and style besides the tophat!) but I think his is a bit too over the top.

There's some western influence here for sure and some early European. I think the Gangs of New York comment hit it spot on. It's like... I'm really into the idea of people trying to look like the upper class but being too dirty and trampy to pull it off. That's what both movies (Twist and Gangs) capture for me.

Perhaps it is a natural transition to go from the recent N(N) and Ann Dem looks into this? I can see the connection for sure, as well as the Julius. Either way, I'm digging it! Varvatos is another designer who does a good job with this style.

Post some more pics of sharp styles along this vein!

edit: good tip SENDkyl. I missed this one back in the day

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i actually really like this look, but less for the pieces and more for the aesthetic. The disheveled and nonchalant take on more formal clothing (waistcoats, ties, etc) is great. I admit though, i still havent been able to pull it off how i would like.

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^^

It's hard to pull it off IMO not because it looks different, but people don't carry themselves right if they wear it. It's all about presentation, otherwise it looks like they're dressing up for halloween.

That being said, I love this style; layering looks amazing when done right, and who does it right better than poor people at turn of the century England? Almost makes me want to ditch denim for loose fitted wool pants. almost.

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the question is, where do I find some loose fitting wool pants in mid/heavy weight that isnt too expensive?

maybe?

I have a few thrift store pants and H&M always puts out a few pairs that COULD work. I think the key to all of this is that the items all have to be very NON-flashy and generic. A pair of wool pants with a pattern or an odd color will stand out far too much. Everything should blend together so that the entire outfit speaks for itself rather than individual pieces.

That said, I DO think that there are some nice cheaper designer pieces that would fit in well also. Ralph Lauren stuff, Marc by Marc, John Varvatos x Converse. All of those fall in the $50-100 range and could easily fit into this type of wardrobe. I actually think those Uniqlo slim fit cords might work as well assuming the color is right.

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I have a few thrift store pants and H&M always puts out a few pairs that COULD work. I think the key to all of this is that the items all have to be very NON-flashy and generic. A pair of wool pants with a pattern or an odd color will stand out far too much. Everything should blend together so that the entire outfit speaks for itself rather than individual pieces.

That said, I DO think that there are some nice cheaper designer pieces that would fit in well also. Ralph Lauren stuff, Marc by Marc, John Varvatos x Converse. All of those fall in the $50-100 range and could easily fit into this type of wardrobe. I actually think those Uniqlo slim fit cords might work as well assuming the color is right.

Totally agree with the non flashy part of course... Thats why I suggested filson, since those are made with a purpose, rather than H&M. I woulndt mind HM though, but im pretty certain those will be too slim, and low quality. Ralph lauren seems like a possible bet otherwise..

I really think wools pants for a really casual context should be heavier to avoid the dress pants vibe.

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Wouldn't be hard to pull of in my opinion. It depends on which look your going for though as the main characters of Oliver Twist reflected the paupers, lowlifes, and other denizens of 18th century English society, which would effectively making you out to look like a vagrant if you imitated their style or lack there of.

If I was going to do it though I think a good tailor would be absolutely essential. People that could afford the fashion of the era had their garments measured to fit their size perfectly.

It'd be an audacious, but I could see it becoming popular if done well.

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If I was going to do it though I think a good tailor would be absolutely essential. People that could afford the fashion of the era had their garments measured to fit their size perfectly.

Huh? The whole point of the "Oliver Twist" style is that it's ill fitting clothing put together in a very haphazard way, however it still fits well together.

Having each peice measured exactly to size would fit the upper class style of the time, but not the style we're discussing.

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