Lee Japan denim

[CrashTestBrummie]

Are Japan Lees (or Lees in general, for that matter) known for stretching out quite a bit?

I had to wash my 101Zs because the arse in the jeans ballooned out - wasn't a good look at all unless you've a nappy fetish...I wanted to see if a relatively hot wash was any good at shrinking it back...

Was surprised at how much lighter they've come out, bearing in mind they've only three weeks wear on them.

The leg twist was also unexpected, as I'd given them a decent soak before wearing them...

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Just wanted to say, since we're having an authenticity discussion in the LVC thread, that Edwin made Lees are SPOT ON. Spot on.

That includes the denim. It really is exact. Only discrepancy is that I hear it loses indigo easily when washed, and I'm not sure if the originals did.

And of course, they're oversized compared to the originals. But I must say that I'm very impressed by them otherwise.

[mikedbt5]

My latest Edwin/Lee 101z purchase has really impressed me . Havent washed mine yet , dont need too as I dont wear my jeans hard .The waist has stretched an inch but I am not too worried about that . However they are developing some good lap/thigh. knee fades regardless . The assembly , attention to detail and denim quality are excellent . I am seriously considering getting a pair of 1959 101b from Speedway . Hopefully someone can confirm to size down two inches at the waist , same as the 101z .

[Paul T]

The Edwin Lees have long been a real bargain (at Japanese prices).

Lee denim is really interesting; there is huge variation; some is quite grey, some has what almost looks like a dusty wash over it. Some of it is surprisingly hairy for a Sanforized fabric. At least some of the reason for the variation is that they incporporated differetn factories - I suspect some of them kept their own produciton methods and didn't have standardized machinery, which is why the detailing varies so much on originals. Some years keep their colour amazingly well, partiuclarly around the hair on hide period, but by the 60s they seem to lose their colour really quick - jackets too. They almost certainly switched to wide looms before Levi's, I wondered if they cut back on indigo before they did.

THe early Edwin-made Lee used Nisshinbo denim, I think, although they've used Kaihara too.

CTB - I guess they shrank as well as having leg twist? I was trying to check when this thread started, from when the sizing and shrinking was unpredictable, but now cotton's merged them (a good thing) you can't tell.

Also, I'm guessing from early in the thread that Kiya thinks Sanforized jeans don't fade so well. Is that a common opinion?

[CrashTestBrummie]

CTB - I guess they shrank as well as having leg twist? I was trying to check when this thread started, from when the sizing and shrinking was unpredictable, but now cotton's merged them (a good thing) you can't tell.

Also, I'm guessing from early in the thread that Kiya thinks Sanforized jeans don't fade so well. Is that a common opinion?

They've shrunk, but most of it was done in the initial soak I gave them - the inseam's now 35 instead of 37. There's a much tighter feel to them now, and the seat of the jeans is closer fitting than before. The leg twist is definitely a development since the wash though, and wasn't there after the soak.

Bear in mind that these jeans are supposed to be early Japan Lee deadstock, although I'm not sure if that'll be relevant.

As for the fading properties of sanforised/unsanforised denim then I can only comment on Japanese Evisu denim, but it's worth noting that many of the most 'iconic' pictures of faded Evis denim are actually of No.2 (sanforised) denim...

[fardin]

as far as i can tell lee japan shrinks a bit. even my 101z did. and the streching is less then my japanese lvc. as we have stated here often before lees are porduced oversized so one should ask the dealer for the exact measurements and size down.

hey mike, what size is your 101z, is it the 1966?

i can recommend the 101b 1959. great cut and beautiful denim. i love mine .

and lee is really putting out some nice new stuff. they have some nice 101b and 101z from 1955 and the warehouse lee colabo looks just awesome.

but i have posted all of that before.

paul thanks for the rep

[mikedbt5]

Fardin , I have benched the 1966 (for the moment) Wearin the 1952s a lot , lI prefer the nine leg opening and fuller cut from the knee as opposed to an eight inch tapered 1966 cut . The detailing on the 1952 is better also .

[fardin]

i know what you mean. i love my 52s too, although the 42 and the 59 are great too. i need to buy some more when i have some money. i am specially waiting for the 40s 101z from warehouse X lee, and i need some 30s lees dont know wich one to get yet. so many things on the list.

its a pity warehouse is not making the heyneman typ 3 anymore. now i missed those too.

its really interesting that there are many japanese companese wich make really cool lee stuff.

real mccoys also have some new lee bib overalls now and a new lee work/ painter pant.

[slowdownarthur]

Just to continue the love for Lee, here's my (Edwin) 1934 101s after about 5 washes and roughly 6 months wear. I tried to get all the shrinkage I could. as Fardin says, they come up pretty big.

Crash - regards stretching, I think they do a bit but mostly I've been pleased at how much they've shrunk overall.

Regards fading properties on sanforised denim I'd say it's better but maybe because it's generally easier to wear it raw for longer .

Difficult to get a representative photo of the colour - these are a really rich deep blue and appear much darker than in the photos.

[fardin]

great post arthur.

i guess i going for this as my next pair.

any fit pics? what are the measurements and where did you get them ?

[superBobo]

^^ I got those 34´s aswell, and like them alot. Just gave them their first wash, and they are fading nicely (and rather fast). Perhaps some quality issues, my pair has devloped holes in the denim at both cuffs for no apperant reason. And the pocket bags on the front pockets are visible when worn, bugs me abit, and makes shirt tucking less clean.

All in all, love the fit and the denim, but some issues...

[slowdownarthur]

great post arthur.

i guess i going for this as my next pair.

any fit pics? what are the measurements and where did you get them ?

Thanks fardin, yeah I'll get some fit pics and post. I went for W34 but these really measured at least 36" when I first got them. I could have sized down to W32 . These pics are post wash and they now measure 34". And fit fine.

I think once I've worn them awhile they'll stretch again. That's ok as I prefer a loose fit anyway.

I got them from Aeroleather who I find really helpful.

And like Superbobo says, the pocket bags show slightly when worn which looks a little odd!

[slowdownarthur]

here's a fit pic of the 34s

[RRLselvageDenim]

Has anyone here purchased online from the lee japan store? Cause I'm wondering if they ship to the US - I'm interested in picking up a pair of hair on hide. Thanks.

[fardin]

i am not even sure if they ship international. but there are other stores that do.

[RRLselvageDenim]

i am not even sure if they ship international. but there are other stores that do.

I was gonna get it from cultizm but they don't have my size, what stores ship internationally?

[fardin]

depends on where you live.

well then try aeroleather is a good choice.

or speedway http://item.rakuten.co.jp/speedway-shop/c/0000000129/

i usually order with jeans neshi http://www.jeans-neshi.com/mensjeanskan/lee/lee.htm

but since the pound is so low ordering with aero is a very good deal.

[sneakeraddict]

In response to an earlier question - they do shrink a bit.

I had the white hair on hide model, can't remember the number and the inseam lost about an inch.

PS. got some Lee bits on ebay at the moment, new, no reserve, see my signature.

[RRLselvageDenim]

Wondering if anyone knows the difference between the 36 and the 39 - the difference I see judging from the Lee japan site is the hair on hide patch color. The sillouette look the same to me.

[fardin]

well it seems not many differences, but the must also be some differences in the cut. it seems that the 36 is produces even more oversized in comparison ti the 39. but you can check the lee japan site, they a grafic with all the models.

some differences are the button union made against lee cowboy with the 39s and the tags etc.

just check the lee japan site.

[RRLselvageDenim]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a hair on hide 1936 however I need to know how much shrinkage I should expect on a tagged size 31x34 but measures 35 x 37.5? I normally wear a 32 - Also I'm assuming the 1936 is not Sanforized. Or Should I size down to 30x34?

[fardin]

thats really a tough one. cause as you say the 31 is way oversize and they dont really shrink. they are sanfordized, the ywill shrink a bit but and they will strech back. so i would go with a 30. but ask the dealer for the exact measurements and for the possibility to return them. i am even thinking of getting them in 29 cause specially the 36 seem to be cut bigger then the rest of the lee repros. dont know why

[RRLselvageDenim]

thats really a tough one. cause as you say the 31 is way oversize and they dont really shrink. they are sanfordized, the ywill shrink a bit but and they will strech back. so i would go with a 30. but ask the dealer for the exact measurements and for the possibility to return them. i am even thinking of getting them in 29 cause specially the 36 seem to be cut bigger then the rest of the lee repros. dont know why

What size do you wear Fardin? I wonder if the 36 shrinks a lot. Do you know if they are Sanforized. Or do you think I should go for the 39? Do you think the 39 run big or true to size? Maybe Paul T has answer to this or maybe lill david. These lees are tricky.

One more thing, Is there a sizing thread here that adresses Lee sizing?

[fardin]

well david has some pics of his somewhere on one of the lee threads.

i dont think they will shrink a lot. the 39 seem to be sized a little bit different.

i wear a 30 now in lees, and 34 in levis. so you could say i am also a 32.

but you really better ask the dealer. and yes they are also sanfordized, so they dont shrink like lvc does.

[Vanquish Gold]

This gotta be one of the BEST washed jeans I've ever seen.... Well done Warehouse!

Check it out, 1934 COWBOY 131 OVERALLS :

http://ameblo.jp/wh-archives/page-3.html

[fardin]

but isnt it kinda a pity that warehouse is only producing them washed? intersting though how long the pockets are.

but they really have some intersting stuff.

and duckdiggers and hellers are also kinda lee related.

[RRLselvageDenim]

well david has some pics of his somewhere on one of the lee threads.

i dont think they will shrink a lot. the 39 seem to be sized a little bit different.

i wear a 30 now in lees, and 34 in levis. so you could say i am also a 32.

but you really better ask the dealer. and yes they are also sanfordized, so they dont shrink like lvc does.

Fardin -Do you wear the 1936 in 30? How do they fit? I just e-mailed speedway for sizing cause he has both the 29 and 30 -- I plan on wearing it raw for about a year before washing. So hopefully it would have stretched before the first wash.

[RRLselvageDenim]

Here's a google Translation grom the Lee Japan Site about 1936

HETA AONHAIDORABERU beginning to adopt the 1936 model that faithfully reproduce the age COWBOY101 model. Triple-stitch version of the previous model, is reprinted in line with the hip and back yoke are SUREDDORIBETTO to adopt a new back pocket. The label also reissued in stunning leather with the hair still HEAONHAIDORABERU called, is a different color characteristics of individual differences in product labels. (Dark brown, light brown, there are black). Front button TOMETA in S-shaped wire, uses a type of the logo marking the only union-made. Silhouette is straight and slightly loose.

※ This product is skew ANSANFO EN (No processing-proof screws防縮LES) is used to not wash the denim fabric, the shrinkage occurs during the washing. Dimensions of the table size is the size of the before washing. When washing is the size of the table size, around 4% of shrinkage occurs. The fabric material with a faithful version of the time sewing, shrink after washing the family, there are considerable individual differences. When looking for detailed product information, please contact us before purchase.

[nemoulette]

Thought that maybe some of you were interested, I'm selling a NOS Lee chore coat, size 38, in the supermarket!

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=149545

[RRLselvageDenim]

This gotta be one of the BEST washed jeans I've ever seen.... Well done Warehouse!

Check it out, 1934 COWBOY 131 OVERALLS :

http://ameblo.jp/wh-archives/page-3.html

That jacket is sick. Would love to pick one up. Wonder who carries them?