Cipher Shoes - England's Review

[englandmj7]

I just got in a pair of Cipher’s “El Commandante Stealths” from Cipher’s ‘Urban Guerrilla’ line and am very excited about them. I wanted to post a review seeing as there are a lot of people on here interested in up-and-coming brands that separate themselves through innovative differentiation and use of high quality materials.

As some of you probably know, Colin (username: Cipherman), who runs Cipher has been kind enough to post his designs up on SF and has been extremely respectful and cool about receiving critiques/advice/compliments from members of the board. Unlike most other brands (*cough* t-shirt companies *cough*) who are recycling graphic prints, putting out boring non-cut & sew pieces, and the like, he has gotten a full-blown shoe line off the ground on his own. I believe he is based out of HK and has literally been on the floor overseeing the manufacturing of all of Cipher’s products.

This particular model I got are made of a nice, thick-as-hell ballistic nylon. This material was originally developed as a material for flak jackets in WW2 and is used today in a lot of tactical combat gear (as well as luggage, jackets, etc.). It was also recently used on a popular model from the Vans Syndicate line. The Stealths feature a combination of butter soft kidskin leather / what seems to be nubuck leather inner and outer heel/ankle lining, and inner tongue lining. The rivets are tough as hell, as are the laces. I would imagine you could probably even use these as a skate shoe as they are very durable as well as comfortable and have a thick insole.

A lot of facets of the shoe were entirely handmade and it shows (in a good way). The camo pattern on the insole is screen printed by hand, the labels sewn by hand, and the toe seams hand stitched, for instance. The sole is stitched tightly through to the upper with heavy stitching, unlike many Nikes, etc. which are simply cemented and stitch detailing added to give the impression that they are stitched. This construction method makes them very sturdy; you can tell the sole isn’t ever going anywhere on these.

This particular run was only 25 pairs, and they are hand numbered. One of the things I love about these are the little details that come out upon close examination, by-products of the handmade workmanship if you will. For instance, I noticed the bottom of each insole was hand-signed by Colin.

I think that fair comparisons can be drawn between this particular model and certain Visvim shoes in terms of quality / aesthetic. The difference with Cipher, however, is that you are getting a shoe of this caliber for a fraction of the price. If I recall correctly, the Stealths retailed for around $120. I also like that these are almost ‘boot-like’ and remind me of Red Wings somewhat (with the toe stitching) as well. Definitely a versatile enough design to wear with most outfits. As a Visvim collector myself, I often use them as the pinnacle of high quality sneakers, and these are certainly on par.

Considering the small production volume, the excellent materials used, and the handiwork involved, I have no clue how these are being offered at this price. What I can deduce from that, however, is that Cipher is a brand that seems to care more about getting a quality product out than making a quick buck. It is also refreshing to see a new, young sneaker brand that isn’t in the vein of overly colorful kicks a la Greedy Genius, JB Classics, Bape, and the like (if you are into that, so be it). I look forward to more updates from Cipher and definitely encourage other SF’ers to consider getting a pair, or at the very least, checking a pair out at their local shoe vendor when Cipher’s brick & mortar presence grows.

The folks at Cipher were extremely helpful in answering all my questions, so I encourage you to contact them and check out some of their newer models here:

http://www.cipherism.com

Who knows; if they get enough business through us maybe we can have a hand in designing a ‘forum special’ model? An affordable version of some FBT Shakers maybe?

Here are some pics (excuse the poor lighting, these are pitch black, not chocolate brown):

Let me know if you Supergays have any questions………

[englandmj7]

[todesengel]

Wow, those are great looking. Nice pickup, and nice work by Cipher! I'm definitely going to pick up a pair of Shaolin Breakers when they come out. Cipher, when do they go on sale?

[diewhitegirls]

Not a fan, but good info. Quality looks great. I especially like the slight imperfections that make it look authentic.

[minya]

I really like the boot-shoe hybrid that those appear to be. I may pick a pair up when they're released. What color is yours? It is hard to tell if it is black or dark brown.

[Dex_star]

I really like the boot-shoe hybrid that those appear to be. I may pick a pair up when they're released. What color is yours? It is hard to tell if it is black or dark brown.

(excuse the poor lighting, these are pitch black, not chocolate brown):

100/10*1=tencharacters

[ktothe]

Cipher, get to work on a chocolate brown color. They would look glorious.

[artificialsky]

NOTE TO READER: ENGLAND WAS PAID FOR THIS REVIEW.

[englandmj7]

NOTE TO READER: ENGLAND WAS PAID FOR THIS REVIEW.

NOTE TO ARTIFICIALSKY: YOU'RE A JACKASS

You gettin' jelly?

England wishes he got paid to write reviews. I was pretty involved in giving up some advice when Cipherman first posted his stuff about a year ago; I figured it would be nice to write up a review for them and anyone else who considered buying something from them in the future.......

I did get a good deal on a pair, however; I don't need to lie about that. These were a damn good price to start with.

[bruised]

was a fan when i saw em last year. i will get the same model when they come out. good job.

[cipherman]

NOTE TO READER: ENGLAND WAS PAID FOR THIS REVIEW.

hahahahahahah...i wish i could be so avarice and intelligent to do that....but like England said, about a year ago he gave me a bitting, fair, and courteous critique of a shoe i put out that really made me think about what I was doing and where i should be going with design, and footwear...and remembered it..as i do with most of the superfuture fam....so to see him today give me a good review on the eve of my tradeshow debut...is a great platitude indeed...by no means are my shoes the greatest, but the other poster was right the slight imperfection are what i think give the shoes some charm...and it took many many many laborous days in southern China...not exactly paradise to make these a reality...so even when you guys take the piss out of my products i still take everything with a grain of salt as they say and i try to push myself to create cool stuff.

and if the powers that be allow it i would love to do a superfuture special Cipher...like a worldwide collaborative forum effort...that would be a cool crossover don'tcah think?

Peace superfuture fam!

[cheapmuthafukr]

NOTE TO READER: ENGLAND WAS PAID FOR THIS REVIEW.

youe just jealous you cant be paid for your opinion...

[triniboy27]

The black ones look good as do the white ones on the site. As ppl have mentioned, a choc-brown one would look great, as would an army green (in my opinion). I didn't like the brown-camo one on the site though.

Just my $0.02.

Good review England but it did sound a bit like a press release.

[englandmj7]

Good review England but it did sound a bit like a press release.

[doctorgnar]

and if the powers that be allow it i would love to do a superfuture special Cipher...like a worldwide collaborative forum effort...that would be a cool crossover don'tcah think?

Yes, I am in full support of this idea and I'd love to be a part of something like that.

[cheapmuthafukr]

id eb down with a superfuture cipher... i like the look of the shoes england has too.

if youd like any other shoes reviewed, i can help with that... pm me:D

[alterion]

I donlt suppose there are any UK stockists are there? (especially for the shaolin breaker)

[retrored]

i like this pair a lot. how much? and where?

[Ryan]

looks dope..any chance of them coming in a white off white or gray?

regardless looking forward to seeing them in person..

[englandmj7]

looks dope..any chance of them coming in a white off white or gray?

regardless looking forward to seeing them in person..

They are doing them in white, peep the website.

[Ryan]

oh durr, i think i commented on them in another thread.

[arem]

Really feeling the black ones, and I agree that chocolate brown (Suede!) would be super fresh as well. If you are going to be selling these please PM me with prices, I'm buying for sure.

[cipherman]

I got a chocolate brown in the works guys...you'll be seeing them in stores later this year.

peace everyone...when i get back hoem let's start on the superfuture shoe!

C

[prima]

let's see some sandals =P

[lms]

let's see some sandals =P

Exclusive sneak peek at the Cipher SS 07 collection:

[cipherman]

hahahahahahahah....pretty close...not

[mr fluffernutter]

hahahahahahahah....pretty close...not

[equatordweller]

I just got mine a couple of days back. Both the Stealth and the Laced versions. I was stoked when i first saw em on www.cipherism.com back in Dec. Had to get meself those. The wait was well worth it. The personalised details and the smooth-as-silk leather and the quality of it all made me feel like I robbed Mr. Cipherman, for the amount I paid for em. Its worth its weight in gold. I am looking forward to his next collection and by the looks of it, its gonna be of the hook!

[ProfMonnitoff]

Nice to hear that clean brown ones are coming out. If you just take the brown/camo ones and get rid of the camo, that's a shoe I'd buy

[un-]

That's cool to see cipherman getting love at various places, I saw some of his material and contacted him to learn more about it, then interviewed him on allhiphop.com's fashion forward forum (I mod there). His upcoming collection loks very promising, I'm checking for the white walkabouts, and the white shaolin breakers. I'm also in the process of doing another interview with him, and I'm pleased to see that he's getting success and blowing up.