my custom jeans. (warning: infringement inside)

[edmond]

btw love your fred perry kicks..

[tweeds]

Look nice, looong rise no?

I've seen that before but couldn't get a closer look, I think that it isn't what people on here call selvedge, (technically it is ofcourse the self-edge of the piece of fabric).

To me it just looks like OE denim with a coloured thread woven in. Doesn't it fray apart?

jet-loomed (wide) selvedge, i think? it still should hold without fraying.

interesting that the denim on the second pair is so streaky. it isn't just my monitor?

OE has to do with the spinning of the yarn, not the weaving of the denim...

[majikero]

jet-loomed (wide) selvedge, i think? it still should hold without fraying.

interesting that the denim on the second pair is so streaky. it isn't just my monitor?

OE has to do with the spinning of the yarn, not the weaving of the denim...

no it isn't just the monitor.. funny coz i thought im the only one noticing it... nice denim. i'll get you 1 1/2 yard of it if you want. just pay for the shipping

[edmond]

thanks TIP ill take that as a complement ! i love the denim scar..the fit is kinda loose though

[tweeds]

no it isn't just the monitor.. funny coz i thought im the only one noticing it... nice denim. i'll get you 1 1/2 yard of it if you want. just pay for the shipping

and what would i do with it...

interesting that the same things we praise in the Onis, nudie flame selvedge, KMW special jeans can be replicated to cheaply, in the same way slubbiness isn't actually a mark of quality spinning/weaving. i guess the visible construction of a pair of jeans is only one aspect of its quality.

[majikero]

thanks for the comments guys!

edmond: my body rejects skinny jeans.

[majikero]

and what would i do with it...

interesting that the same things we praise in the Onis, nudie flame selvedge, KMW special jeans can be replicated to cheaply, in the same way slubbiness isn't actually a mark of quality spinning/weaving. i guess the visible construction of a pair of jeans is only one aspect of its quality.

i dont know. bed sheets, maybe?

[Charlie Delta]

jet-loomed (wide) selvedge, i think? it still should hold without fraying.

interesting that the denim on the second pair is so streaky. it isn't just my monitor?

OE has to do with the spinning of the yarn, not the weaving of the denim...

Yep you're right, not being able to concentrate on what I'm typing because I'm supposed to be working doesn't work well with throwing out technical terms obviously. heh.....

..and edited in original post, luckily it's been quoted a couple of times to remind me of my stupidity!

[oOmegaOo]

This is the bee's knees, bud. Fit looks good (especially the profile). What was the average price for each of the jeans? (materials, tailor, etc.)

[edmond]

errr where can i purchase a denim clothe like the one skull's uses? on their non wash models? 15 oz right?

[majikero]

This is the bee's knees, bud. Fit looks good (especially the profile). What was the average price for each of the jeans? (materials, tailor, etc.)

i wont tell the exact amount of the jeans.. all i can say is that it costed below $30 for both of the jeans, all in all.

edit: like i said, im a fat retard. it need more denim to make these. so for slimmer peeps, it might cost lesser.

[edmond]

20 us dollars would be right? right scar?

[oOmegaOo]

i wont tell the exact amount of the jeans.. all i can say is that it costed below $30 for both of the jeans, all in all.

edit: like i said, im a fat retard. it need more denim to make these. so for slimmer peeps, it might cost lesser.

I was just curious. I enjoy seeing quality at low prices; it gives me a fuzzy feeling inside.

[ang_kangkong]

Do you know if the fabric was sanforized? Would they tell you that at Divi?

What's happening to your other jeans projects from way back when?

[jubei]

Wow, really nice... I guess when people say they can get it cheaper in Divisoria, they aren't kidding I was only in Manila for two weeks for a wedding so everything was really hectic, hence, because of time restraints it made more sense for me to go to Viktor. I'm sure you're keeping the name of your tailor a closely guarded secret...

Edit: just saw pics of the fit and I think it looks really good on you. props pare

[majikero]

Do you know if the fabric was sanforized? Would they tell you that at Divi?

What's happening to your other jeans projects from way back when?

all they know is if the denim is left or right hand twill. LOL. but they may well be. soaked them in boiling hot water for 5 hours and didn't move an inch.. hence a bit looser fit coz im conpesating the shrinkage. as you may know, there are lots of shops in DV where you can buy denim. the shop i bought this may well be the shop where has most variations of denim. from the lightest to the they're heaviest. my friends liked some of my jeans so i gave it them... some are given to the ones affected by the typhoon in the south right before christmas.

[majikero]

Wow, really nice... I guess when people say they can get it cheaper in Divisoria, they aren't kidding I was only in Manila for two weeks for a wedding so everything was really hectic, hence, because of time restraints it made more sense for me to go to Viktor. I'm sure you're keeping the name of your tailor a closely guarded secret...

Edit: just saw pics of the fit and I think it looks really good on you. props pare

the tailor's from here in Bulacan so it'll hard for tourist to visit our place just to get some jeans from him. his name is Ben.. he's our "family tailor". my mother knew him even when she's still single. so explaning the retro terms to him is a breeze. just give me a message ones you're back. we'll stroll around manila and buy you some materials. salamat pare! mabuhay ka!

[swisloc]

jet-loomed (wide) selvedge, i think? it still should hold without fraying.

interesting that the denim on the second pair is so streaky. it isn't just my monitor?

OE has to do with the spinning of the yarn, not the weaving of the denim...

yes. jet/projectile loom fabric using the selvage edge. seriously, how many threads have we defined this in?? OE and shuttle loom selvage have nothing to do with each other. And i'll state as always, OE vs. Ringspun has MUCH more to do witht he quality of a piece of fabric than shuttle vs. projectile loom does as it speaks to the quality of the fabric itself (i.e. the yarn in this case).

Think of a cup of espresso. you can make it on the stove top in a Bialetti or in an expensive espresso machine, but it's the quality of the coffee itself that will dictate how good it tastes.

You can make crap coffee on an expensive machine and you can make crap denim on a shuttle loom.

[Charlie Delta]

^ He replied to mistake I made (a couple posts up) while not thinking about what I was typing.

[majikero]

yes. jet/projectile loom fabric using the selvage edge. seriously, how many threads have we defined this in?? OE and shuttle loom selvage have nothing to do with each other. And i'll state as always, OE vs. Ringspun has MUCH more to do witht he quality of a piece of fabric than shuttle vs. projectile loom does as it speaks to the quality of the fabric itself (i.e. the yarn in this case).

Think of a cup of espresso. you can make it on the stove top in a Bialetti or in an expensive espresso machine, but it's the quality of the coffee itself that will dictate how good it tastes.

You can make crap coffee on an expensive machine and you can make crap denim on a shuttle loom.

so, how can i tell if the denim in these jeans are OE or ringspun. i've read the thread but still cant understand shit. any pictures for comparison?

[swisloc]

so, how can i tell if the denim in these jeans are OE or ringspun. i've read the thread but still cant understand shit. any pictures for comparison?

certainly no disrespect to Cotton Duck or TIP, you guys identified it correctly! sorry if it came off that way, more towards the fact that we have this same discussion every three months. I believe the last one was over some Lee 101 half selvage i believe.

anyway, toward the OPs question. The only way you can tell if its OE or Ringspun is to get a maginifying glass (or if you have really good nearsided vision) and look at the individual threads. There is warp and weft in woven fabrics (as i'm sure you know) so you must look at each side individually. If it is Ringspun the threads will literally look like ropes, twisted around itself, it will be aparent if it's ringspun. The only way i could describe OE is that it's more blobby, smoother. Basically the way its made is literally by taking raw sliver (what you get after carding the cotton) compressing it with air into a thin strand of yarn, so no twisting rope effect. It is much easier to identify OE yarn after it has been washed as it gets more puffy and monotone while ringspun maintains its rope effect.

i hope this helps.

EDIT: by looking at both sides you will know if both warp AND weft are ringspun OE or one of each (which does happen as well). This is what we mean when we say Ring X Ring fabirc (both sides ringspun). Most shuttle loom denim in the brands discussed on this forum use ringspun by default, but by no means does a shuttle loom INDICATE ringspun denim.

[tweeds]

also a common (and not altogether incorrect?) assumption is that cheap denim will be OE-spun

[majikero]

so you mean a ringspun denim has a strand similar to any cotton thread? like the threads needed for stitching?

damnit guys!!! you're messing up with my mind! LOL

[swisloc]

also a common (and not altogether incorrect?) assumption is that cheap denim will be OE-spun

absolutely, although there is a better chance of this since OE is much cheaper to make.

[tweeds]

i dare 45rpm to put out an OE-OE jean.

the OE-spun yarn is also much weaker than the ring-spun, according to tony_hige. tears and fabric failure are not uncommon in OE-ring or OE-OE jeans.

[swisloc]

so you mean a ringspun denim has a strand similar to any cotton thread? like the threads needed for stitching?

no. this is not what i mean. ANY yarn can be OE or ringspun, because, again, this speaks to the process which created not it's potential use. OE and Ringspun have similar attributes (which is why the cheaper, more idustrialized process of making OE has replaced ringspun in many cases) and in many cases (such as weaving denim) are interchangable. rule of thumb - potential use does not necessarily indicate production method.

[swisloc]

i dare 45rpm to put out an OE-OE jean.

the OE-spun yarn is also much weaker than the ring-spun, according to tony_hige. tears and fabric failure are not uncommon in OE-ring or OE-OE jeans.

this is true. part of the reason that when you buy new Levis 501 STFs the denim itself blows out in a year...

and to 45 RPM. what i'd really like to see is them put out a projectile loom selvage product, just to prove it has no influence on quality.

[tweeds]

that would be interesting. they've got nonselvedge models which have proved that the visible selvedge line is not a prerequisite to selling tonnes of jeans - now to sell jeans that are made from projectile-loomed selvedge denim.

all these ideas...imagine if some of us ran a denim company. we'd go bust in six months trying out all our wacky ideas.

[chuck.r]

Great pair majikero, it looks like top-notch quality construction. Your Mang Ben must be a really good tailor. Are those chainstitched hems? And the edwin arcs look really great, I'm guessing that tailor has some good machines back at his shop.

And I think I've been to that shop in Divisoria you were talking about. Indigo from floor to ceiling. Was there a nice Chinese-Filipina at the counter? I asked if they had any selvage and got confused looks, denim woven on shuttlelooms and more confused looks, anything denim that's just 30" wide and I got nothing. Totally forgot to ask if they had any ringspun denim though. Ended up just buying some cotton twill for trousers and some shirting fabric.

I should go back though, but parking's a bitch over there.

so you mean a ringspun denim has a strand similar to any cotton thread? like the threads needed for stitching?

I also have to admit that I could hardly tell the difference between OE and ringspun denim. But I had a very interesting experience when I interned for a photographer who was assigned to photograph for the employee denim handbook for Levi's Philippines. I saw everything from the raw cotton they use to make the threads, to samples of unwoven OE yarns and unwoven ringspun yarns, and even that's hard to tell without looking up close. You really have to see it, but all I can say is that OE threads are much tighter in the way they're spun so they look alot tighter, and I remember ringspun being "fluffier" and not spun as neatly. And looking at denim swatches of both ringspun and OE side by side, I remember the ringspun denim to have a more imperfect looking twill while the OE swatch was alot more uniform. This was all a while back, like maybe 5-6 months, but it was a very enlightening experience.

my friends liked some of my jeans so i gave it them... some are given to the ones affected by the typhoon in the south right before christmas.

That's really, really awesome man.

[majikero]

Great pair majikero, it looks like top-notch quality construction. Your Mang Ben must be a really good tailor. Are those chainstitched hems? And the edwin arcs look really great, I'm guessing that tailor has some good machines back at his shop.

And I think I've been to that shop in Divisoria you were talking about. Indigo from floor to ceiling. Was there a nice Chinese-Filipina at the counter? I asked if they had any selvage and got confused looks, denim woven on shuttlelooms and more confused looks, anything denim that's just 30" wide and I got nothing. Totally forgot to ask if they had any ringspun denim though. Ended up just buying some cotton twill for trousers and some shirting fabric.

I should go back though, but parking's a bitch over there.

thanks for the comments man. i really appreicate it. i think we are talking about different shops? the shop i bought the denim from is in a really secluded area where they sell denim only materials there. the shop's name is Good Morning textile. lots of variations there. from plains, blacks, to long streaky ones and flame indigo and stuff. its a haven for denim addicts. too bad they dont have shuttle loom selvage there.. but, at least for me, denim quality is at par with the denim mostly recognized here.