Stevenson Overall Company

[kiya]

And is the only difference between the RXX and OSX models a factory one-wash?

 

Not sure, i know that in Japan you can only really find their jeans one-washed.  We have them made just for us so that they come raw, the denim has a far nicer feel to it if its been lightly soaked as opposed to industrially washed.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 22, 2015 by hoggreaser

[itsbenhere]

Just copped the gima tee.  I'll update with more thoughts and pics when it comes...

[Theloniouskase21]

XX.

Edited September 6, 2013 by Theloniouskase21

[indigoeagle]

Did you buy those service shoes, Eagle?

 

I see they're made in Mexico, could be made by SM Wholesale. 

Just saw it now.

Yes, I bought them. And yes, they're made in Mexico. But I don't know anymore about the manufacturer.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 12, 2015 by hoggreaser

[indigoeagle]

They're very nice. But they fit very small.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[indigoeagle]

I reckon these you should get in your true size.

[dcs]

I posted an initial impressions of my new Stevenson Overall Co La Jollas (727) over at reddit's /r/rawdenim a few days ago.  I figured this thread needs some love, so thought I should x-post it over here.

 

Here's the link on reddit for anyone interested.

 

Please note that the pictures aren't the greatest and I had to screw around with the color/contrast/exposure etc. for fit pics because of poor lighting where I took them. I had limited time to take the pictures before my wife got home and wondered what the fuck I was doing taking pictures of my jeans and writing about them.

Full album.

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Background

I had taken a couple pairs of jeans to SESF a couple months, one for a hem and the other for a repair. My wife was in the store with me and she was looking at some of the jeans that were hung up and said, “Oh, these are nice!†and pointed to a pair of Stevensons. I figured, “Hell, if my wife is enabling me by saying that a pair looks nice, I should probably exploit her remark and find an excuse to buy a pair,†since I always want more and more denim. At the time, the top jean on my to-buy list was a pair of SG3109, but I decided to take a look at the Stevensons hanging up and I was intrigued by some of the details on the jeans like the curved back pockets and the hourglass belt loops. When I got home, I started to do a bit of research into the brand and the jeans themselves, and I became more and more intrigued.

I started doing some research and came across this faded pair and thought they looked fantastic. A bit more of a vintage-y fade, but the owner mentioned they had been washed several times. I figured that since I don’t wash my jeans that often, I may be able to achieve a bit of a higher contrast fade, but I still thought the overall look/fade of the jean was pretty awesome. I also saw that Kiya had made some comments about the durability of Stevenson jeans. I don’t really beat my jeans up that badly, but durability is always good!

A week or so after I stopped by SESF to drop off my jeans for hemming/repairs, I went back to pick them up. The guy helping me there (Ginno?) was the guy in some of the Stevenson product pictures on the Self Edge website, who has been wearing a pair of Stevensons for the past couple of years. I briefly spoke to him about them and he talked about how much he loved his pair (and he had some pretty sick fades). He was also the same guy that sold me my SG1109s, so I trusted his judgement! By this point, I was thinking that a pair of Stevensons would be my next pair of jeans and I would just get a pair of SG3109s next time! When Self Edge had a 12% off sale for Self Edge PDX opening, I went ahead and ordered a pair.
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Specs

Info taken from Self Edge - Stevenson Overall Co La Jolla (727) 
 

- 14oz Rope Dyed Unsanforized Japanese Selvedge Denim

- 6.5 Gauge Warp and Weft Threads
- Pure Indigo Dyed
- Single Needle Stitched
- Leather Backed Buttons
- Denim Woven on Vintage Toyoda Looms by Kuroki Co., Ltd. in Okayama
- Original Fabric for Stevenson Overall Company
- UJ Core Stitching (Cotton Thread w/ Poly Core) Produced by Ujiyo Bussan in Okayama
- Hand Sewn Belt Loops
- Slim Tapered Fit
 

Stevenson's La Jolla jean is a slim leg tapered jean with a great fit that works well with most outfit styles. The denim used on this pant is an original fabric developed by Stevenson Overall Company for their line of jeans and woven by Okayama's famed Kuroki denim mill. Even the thread used is developed for their jeans by Okayama's oldest thread producing factory, from the outside it looks and ages like a 100% cotton thread but is strong so that the jean lasts for a longer period of time.

The entire jean is single needle sewn which is nearly unheard of on a jean in this price range, it's truly a work of art to see.

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Sizing

Using Self Edge's sizing chart and some email advice from Kiya, I went ahead and ordered a size 32. When I received them in the mail, I tried them on and they fit virtually perfectly. I was concerned they would shrink too much during an initial soak, so I dropped into SESF the weekend after I received them for some advice on whether I should size up or try Stevenson's slim cut, the Upland. The two guys there told me to wear them for a couple weeks, and then do a cold soak. I ended up wearing them maybe 3-4 times a week for about 3 weeks. They didn't seem to stretch too much. I went ahead and gave them a cold soak over the past weekend and let them air dry. They were a bit difficult to button, but still fit pretty nicely and have been stretching back to a more comfortable spot in the couple of days I've worn them since.

For reference, here is some information in the other jeans I wear:

- Stevenson Overall Co La Jolla - 32 - cold soaked
- The Strike Gold 1109 - 34 - cold soaked; a bit loose in the waist
- 3sixteen ST-100x - 33 - older production; fit perfectly
- 3sixteen ST-120x - 33 - newer production; tighter in the thighs than I would like
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Fit

- Front 
- Back 

I really like the fit of these. They are pretty snug in the waist and thighs, but I've only worn them a couple of times since being soaked. They have a more aggressive taper than my SG1109 (which is really more of a slim straight) and my ST-100x. The back pockets have a bit of a wide stance, but it doesn't bother me too much.
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Fabric

- Closeup 1 
- Closeup 2 
- Selvedge 

The jeans have a nice heft to them being 14oz pre-soak, but obviously not too heavy. They'll be a good year-round weight here in the Bay Area. The fabric is pretty smooth (no slub) but has a decent amount of hair as evidenced in the two closeup pictures.

There is some slight fading you can see in some of the pictures and it appears it will fade with somewhat of a greenish hue. This will be cool to see because my SG1109 and ST-100x are fading more towards what I would describe as being more on the grey side.

The selvedge line is asymmetrical with white on one edge and green line on the other. Asymmetrical selvedge lines aren't that common and I like the contrast of the one that Stevenson is using.
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Details/Hardware

- Copper star rivets 
- Stevenson Overall Co branded top button

- Laurel leaf bottom buttons 
- Leather backed buttons 
- Hand sewn/folded curved back pockets 
- Hand sewn/folded hourglass belt loops 
- Single needle construction 
- Dense stitch count 
- Paper patch 

I particularly like the hourglass belt loops and curved back pocket on these jeans. I think it's a really unique aesthetic without feeling contrived. I keep my phone in my back pocket and the pocket's curve does make it stick out just a bit since the pocket depth is obviously a bit shorter in the center.

The one thing I'm not a fan of is the patch. It feels too flimsy and while it will still age and develop a patina along side the jeans, I would much rather have a natural leather patch.
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Final Thoughts

I really like the fit of these jeans and the unique details like the hourglass belt loops and curved back pockets. I'm really interested to see how these break in and develop over time especially considering there isn't a whole lot of information on the brand. I liked the idea of getting a pair of jeans from a brand that was a bit more unique and uncommon compared to the Japanese heavy hitters like Samurai, Momotaro, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, etc.

Edited September 21, 2013 by dcs

[kiya]

That was the best rundown on a pair of jeans i've seen on a forum.  Mind posting it in the Self Edge thread?

[dcs]

That was the best rundown on a pair of jeans i've seen on a forum.  Mind posting it in the Self Edge thread?

 

Done!  Thanks for the great customer service on the jeans.  I'm looking forward to breaking them in (although it may be slow with all the other jeans I have...)

[itsbenhere]

Double post but this thread needs it. God damn I love these.  I vow to have some nice evo pictures in a couple months.... this is such a great cut.  Roomy enough in the thighs, without a giant leg opening so it looks good with smaller footwear.

 

 

[tmadd]

Very good!!!  I'm pretty stocked on the Stevensons right now.  With front pockets like those, you won't want to have any other pants in rotation anyways...it's a weird thing to have be your favorite thing about a pair of pants...but sliding my hands into the pockets of Stevensons is.

[itsbenhere]

Yeah, the pockets are one of my favorite parts.  It's insane how comfortable these are straight away.  I'm giving them a second hot soak right now to make sure all the shrinkage is out.  they fit pretty perfectly right now, im banking on the fact that not much pressure will yield not much stretch.

[cthip]

Double post but this thread needs it. God damn I love these.  I vow to have some nice evo pictures in a couple months.... this is such a great cut.  Roomy enough in the thighs, without a giant leg opening so it looks good with smaller footwear.

 

 

 

de neve?

[itsbenhere]

Close, but no cigar. Rieber vista. Pm me if you're here!

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[kiya]

What the hell?  Those look a bit ridiculous, and Stevenson is one of my favorite brands.  

[Rightyow77]

I love those, sized down properly those would look perfect.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[spacey]

hoggy do you know if freewayjapan delivers internationally or is a proxy required?

[kiya]

hoggy do you know if freewayjapan delivers internationally or is a proxy required?

 

 

If you'd like to order domestically we (at Self Edge) carry the 727, 767, and 707 (only at SELA) and we allow exchanges.

[spacey]

Hey Kiya, I actually would order from SE but I can't fit the 727 in a size 29, which is the smallest size you carry. Would it be possible to make a special order from Stevenson for the 727 in a size 28?

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[spacey]

Thanks hoggy! I suppose I could just email them and ask. I really like the construction and look of SOC jeans, actually I can't wait for SE to bring in the fall/winter collection.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[spacey]

Are you thinking of getting a pair?

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser