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canice

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Have you checked the interior of the tire to see if there is any residual objec that is re-piercing your tube? Or have you checked to see where the leak occurs on the tube and checked the wheel and shit around the spot?

yea, im going to have to take that tire off and really inspect it. Its really a pain in my ass because I use my bike to go everywhere. And whenever im gone for a few hours the damn tire is halfway deflated when I get back.

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He said he's had it done at a shop a couple times, and it still keeps happening, so I'd think snakebite or any problems at the valve stem would be unlikely. If the leak is always at the same spot it has to be either something stuck in the tire, or, like canice suggests, a lack of rim tape.

If it's always happening at different places, maybe you should get some kevlar tires or some shit!

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nice builds dudes!

ace.. i thought you would have been a lot taller than that. those paul cranks look great, although i just can't get down on those chainrings.

re: having a shop change your tubes... it could be snakebites from that, too. rim tape is crucial! VELOX! you should be changing your own tubes anyway.. that's a $4 repair turning into $20 like my roommate paid the other day. she didn't trust that i knew how to change a tire?

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I really need to learn bikes in and out...so I know what im doing when shit breaks down. Im thinking of building a bike at this garage that teaches people to do stuff like that.

these pretty ass bikes are tempting me to drop some cash on a new toy

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bike projects are amazing. we had one in bloomington where you could volunteer time in exchange for parts. they always had open hours where you could use tools to overhaul your ride.

where is the one in chicago? i didn't realize you had one.

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I was looking into buying a new crank set and was hoping to do it myself, just wondering how tough it is to change? As well what would be your recomendations for essential tools?

1) Take off the Pedal (Pedal spanner or Adjustable one)

2) Take off the Chain (with Screw driver)

3) Take off the dust cap (hex key)

4) Take off the Bolt (Crank Extractor ..using the other end)

5) Take off the Crank (Crank Extrrator)

Oh are you changing the Bottom Bracket too???

Cheer,

Dub.

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Hey all'

I recently bought a TT frame...it have vertical dropout. Only two way to do it is to weld a new rear track drop or Whiteindustries ENO hub.

My question is anyone had experiences with the ENO HUB??? If i go with the ENO hub i will lace it with Mavic Open Pro or Deep V.

Cheer,

Dub.

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Hey all'

I recently bought a TT frame...it have vertical dropout. Only two way to do it is to weld a new rear track drop or Whiteindustries ENO hub.

My question is anyone had experiences with the ENO HUB??? If i go with the ENO hub i will lace it with Mavic Open Pro or Deep V.

Cheer,

Dub.

a TT conversion sounds very uncomfortable. the geometry of most TT bikes places the seat directly over the bottom bracket so as to maximize the power of each pedal stroke... and you'd be doubled over on the frame. that means handling would be even twitchier and more aggressive than any track frame.

for true ballin "i don't even give a fuck" factor, i'd say do it, but my inner roadie is crying. you should do it justice and build it up with full carbon fsa and some zipp wheels.

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Thanks for the info. To be honest I don't know what the bottom bracket would be let alone kknow if I should take it off or not. Is it recomended to take it off when changing cranks? Are crank extractors is easy to come bike, could I hopefully pick one up at my LBS?

1) Take off the Pedal (Pedal spanner or Adjustable one)

2) Take off the Chain (with Screw driver)

3) Take off the dust cap (hex key)

4) Take off the Bolt (Crank Extractor ..using the other end)

5) Take off the Crank (Crank Extrrator)

Oh are you changing the Bottom Bracket too???

.

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I was wondering if someone might be able to help me with sizing. I'm picking up a schwinn madison for $340 but I don't know if I'm a Medium or a Large, and I am unable to go get it personally, so I don't think i'll be able to ride them both before buying. I'm 5'9-5'10 and like to sit relatively upright while riding, but this is my first fixed gear so i'm not sure if that will change.

Sorry to seem really uninformed, if you can help at all I'll really appreciatte it.

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do the fit guide on www.competitivecyclist.com (don't look at the bikes though because you'll end up spending money you don't have) then compare your measurements to the geometry on the schwinn. i'm guessing you'd ride a 52-54, but i'd definitely do that to make sure you don't end up with a bike you can't ride.

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Looking to buy my first bike. I've got a shitty huffy bike from kmart right now (gathering dust for years) so this will be my first major bike purchase.

I got three options, and since I know absolutely nothing about brands and quality and stuff, I need some help. Been reading up and joining forums.

Option 1

Used Mercier road bike...its in good shape and it was a really "smooth" (is that how you say it?) ride. Really light...I think its pretty old though, I think the guy said 10 years? They wanted 160 USD for it.

Option 2

Used Peugeot road bike....its white and in pretty much the same condition as the Mercier and about the same price. The dude at the store recommended the Mercier "hands down, no doubt" as he said it.

Option 3

Look around more.

Any suggestions? I'm pretty much positive i'll buy used....mainly to just get around and for leisure....might get into the fixed gear thing later on. Budget is 200 USD.

Thanks

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I need some help from people on here that ride old skool bmx's.

First off im looking to buy an old skool bmx freestyler or racer and i was wondering how hard are they to ride about town? In terms of fatigue etc?

Secondly i've been looking at a few bmx's and have noticed the frame shapes are different, but so far i haven't found out why.

What is this type of frame called?

img1_103.jpg

And what is this one called?

img1_177.jpg

Also what do you call the seat post used above that aren't bent at the top?

Thanks a bunch.

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...the first is a redline frame,what model i have no clue. BMX geometry is based off of waht the bike is intended for. For street/park you have a slightly more relaxed head tube angle (73ish) which means that the front wheel is farther from the back wheel.i beleive the head tube angle is similar for racing as well,Flatland bmx bike usually have a steeper head tube angle,keeping the front wheel closer to the back wheel, or almost directly under the fork,which allows for balancing on the front pegs with the back wheel in the air,also,essentially sharper turns,which is used for doing. Next is top tube length,again,its usually longer for road/park/racing, anout 21inches,which provides more leverage, and 18.5-19+ inches for flatland,which gives you the ablility to reech the back seat while facing the bike head on. seat tube angle and chain stay length are pretty subtle factors that you would only notice after riding for a while....that being said...BMX bikes hardly suffice for getting around town,the tires are 20 inches,and you can get a gear ratio of 2-1 which means that for every rotation you make with the cranks,the back wheel makes two revolutions,which is decent,but you hit your top speed after about 4 quick rotations.im speaking from experience,i rode flatland for a few years,and now im in the position to get a bike for transportation,so im selling my BMX bike and expecting my track bike to arrive any minute now...

ps:older BMX frames are pretty chunky/heavy/relatively mediocre construction,and although that might provide that nostalgic aesthetic, they really arn't practical.you could get a much lighter,well constructed recently manufactured frame,and put mag wheels on it though.....even though mag wheels are flexible,and are going to take away alot of the energy you put into pedalling.....check out danscomp.com ..or if you want to get into flatland bmx,im selling my frame at a great price ;D

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First off im looking to buy an old skool bmx freestyler or racer and i was wondering how hard are they to ride about town? In terms of fatigue etc?

Well they were never designed to be ridden like that so not great to be honest. If all you're going to do is commute I'd look at something a bit more practical, especially if you have a long commute and in London traffic.

BMX bikes hardly suffice for getting around town,the tires are 20 inches,and you can get a gear ratio of 2-1 which means that for every rotation you make with the cranks,the back wheel makes two revolutions,which is decent,but you hit your top speed after about 4 quick rotations.

The classic bmx ratio is 44-16 which is definatly not the same as 2-1 (personally I run 28-10).

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