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Do you know which model? And northface is kinda pricey...

i got a god qulity MEC (mountain equipment co-op) one for less than 100 i believe.

Plain and functional.

For some reason i feel MEC is only in canada? but i've been wrong before.

Also. If i buy a new hub how much do shops usually charge to install it onto a rim i got.

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i got a god qulity MEC (mountain equipment co-op) one for less than 100 i believe.

Plain and functional.

For some reason i feel MEC is only in canada? but i've been wrong before.

Also. If i buy a new hub how much do shops usually charge to install it onto a rim i got.

i was charged labor for 40 bucks per wheel

but im not sure if that'd be different since i bought a new wheel rather than replacement of a hub

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im a big believer in the rei outlet online... ive found so much great shit there for super cheap. heres some of the wind/rain wear on there right now

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/780958

outdoor research - make a great product, gore tex for about 100

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/768831

orage - if youre willing to throw down, ive tried this coat on, its super comfy, and supposedly excellent in the wind

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/790330

mountain hardware - excellent clothing, perfect for some lighter wind conditions at about 80 bucks

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/785835

marmot - need i say more? for 70 bucks, this shell is a great option

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Could someone explain me why re-using an old rear wheel and replacing the hub is called a suicide hub? When you buy a new wheel you are doing the same thing, right? Only the spokes are probably less damaged/in better shape?

reuseing hubs is a bad thing, they usually have stretched out eyelets, or bent flanges. it's not ideal, but it works.

if you plan on doing that, take it to a REALLY GOOD shop. find that mechanic that's been wrenching for like 10 years to take a look at it first.

also, i've never posted a pic of my bike,

bbq_4_11_09_20-1.jpg

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im a big believer in the rei outlet online... ive found so much great shit there for super cheap. heres some of the wind/rain wear on there right now

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/780958

outdoor research - make a great product, gore tex for about 100

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/768831

orage - if youre willing to throw down, ive tried this coat on, its super comfy, and supposedly excellent in the wind

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/790330

mountain hardware - excellent clothing, perfect for some lighter wind conditions at about 80 bucks

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/785835

marmot - need i say more? for 70 bucks, this shell is a great option

my favourite shell is the marmot aegis - affordable, super waterproof, breathable. i had a north face venture and a gore one which are horrible, they started to leak and they don't breath.

Thanks for all the info! I'll keep an eye on rei co-op.

Hey how about this one:

http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/731197

Too bike-y to wear in real life too?

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what's up with that frame? looks like its melting!

looks like you have a freewheel on it, but if my eyes deceive me, get a decent pedal setup. your control will go through the roof and you'll enjoy it that much more!

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haha, that melting frame is kind of a love it or hate it thing. i love it, many don't.

it's a fixed gear but it has a flip hub with freewheel too.

excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean with the expression 'your control will go through the roof'? :o

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haha, that melting frame is kind of a love it or hate it thing. i love it, many don't.

it's a fixed gear but it has a flip hub with freewheel too.

excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean with the expression 'your control will go through the roof'? :o

Sick frame!

What he means is that if you ride with toe clips ("cages"), you will have muuuuuuuuch more control over your bike, especially if you're riding fixed. I ride a geared bike, but having toe clips still gives me a huge amount more control. I kind of compare riding hard without toe clips to driving a race car without wearing a harness - you slide all over the place and can't focus your energies where they need to be going.

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you must rely on your brake all the time if you're not noticing any problems with your feet.

with clips and straps, your foot will be anchored to your pedal, allowing you must more control in skids, skip stops and even help you pedal faster in lifting up while spinning. this will also let you be quicker in reactions when you need to stop in an emergency.

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dkatz and mlproject, thanks a lot for your explanation. as i am new in this whole fixie thing i really appreciate any advice.

a friend of mine also recommended the mks clips. think i'm gonna order them right now.

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opinions on r.e.load bags?

about to pull the trigger on a civilian.

they're ok, the strap system isn't the best, they dig into (my) neck, big pocket at the front of the bag is not a place for wallets/phone, they fall out. baileyworks super pro ftw

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whats a general rule of thumb for foot placement on pedals?

(i did this rough sketch)

pedalplacement.png

i push mainly with my toes (think like a womans feet shape when wearing heels) and when i move my seat post down it feels im putting too much weight on the saddle.

bring down seat a bit?

currently on sylvans and mks Medium (wear size 11/43)

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make sure you get decent straps though. don't waste your $20 on shitty mks straps. they will break as soon as they get wet or before.

toshis all the way!

Shit man, seriously? $100 for toe straps??? That seems pretty ridiculous. Granted my buddy who's been riding fixies for 8 years insisted I get them today, too.... but that's tough for me to justify.

And you can't lock your toe straps to your bike. Not that hard for someone to yank them off.

And why not get some quad-gate clips if you're gonna get double straps?

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Shit man, seriously? $100 for toe straps??? That seems pretty ridiculous. Granted my buddy who's been riding fixies for 8 years insisted I get them today, too.... but that's tough for me to justify.

And you can't lock your toe straps to your bike. Not that hard for someone to yank them off.

And why not get some quad-gate clips if you're gonna get double straps?

i believe soma quad gates dont work as well? (dont quote me on this though) and you can get the MKS copy of toshis (and im pretty sure mks can stand by their products)

they are a bit cheaper but even when toshi straps are installed its still pretty hard to pull off.

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_506_507&products_id=648

unbranded so i guess it can go pretty unnoticed

nylon is pretty decent because it doesnt move as much as leather straps, whereas the tradeoff in that is that it can rip fairly easy (been using it for one month of light use and its fraying) and the texture of the toshis make it so its pretty antislip in nature

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whats a general rule of thumb for foot placement on pedals?

(i did this rough sketch)

pedalplacement.png

i push mainly with my toes (think like a womans feet shape when wearing heels) and when i move my seat post down it feels im putting too much weight on the saddle.

bring down seat a bit?

currently on sylvans and mks Medium (wear size 11/43)

I'm a little more forward than that, the ball of my foot hits like the front rail of the pedal.

and for toe straps, I just got some All city double toe straps, and no real complaints so far.. I gotta take some time to adjust em better, but for like 40 bucks they seem like a steal

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looking at fixed frames,

hey some help cycle tape and specs.. donte any special preferences when it comes to measurements yet but i do want to piece a complete together that fits- something that doesn't feel too large or awkward. is it best to judge sizing by seat tube size? how do i know what's right for me

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