Custom/Resoled Boots

[thinker0217]

One thing we love about the shoes/boots people in this forum are wearing is that they are resole-able and rebuildable. They are expected to accompany us for decades even a lifetime if they are cared. 

 

Their life can be prolonged by sending them to a cobbler for a resole job. It's always pleasant and fascinating to see an old good pal back and ready to serve us again, especially when they are back with a different appearance. That's why I dedicate myself to making soles and heels inspired by the old and beautiful ones from our grandfathers' era like Cat's Paw, Biltrite, O'Sullivans, and so on. 

 

So, I would like to create a new topic to talk about any aspects about resoled/custom boots. Any discussions about the material of the sole/heel, sole-replacing job, custom-made boots, and shoe-making construction are welcome. 

 

The first shot is my Red Wing #1909 (100th Anniversary edition). They are the forefather of the Beckman series as they were launched prior to the Beckman series. They are pretty much as same as the Red Wing #9011 except for the 100th anniversary stamp. And it's said that the leather used on #1909 is supplied by Horween. On the other hand, the Featherstone leather used on Beckman series is made by S. B. Foot Tannery owned by Red Wing. However, I am not so sure about this information. If I'am wrong, please correct me.

I resoled them with NOS Cat's Paw half soles and heels in 2008. They are damn heavy and stiff as they got triple midsole. Yeah, TRIPLE!! The pictures were taken in 2008; currently, the Lucian Bernhard cat patterns on the soles and heels have been worn out. I'll update the picture if I got a chance. 

 

 

[dylanbooth78]

lovely pair of boots you have there mate! I have recently been thinking of having my wolverine 1000 mile boots resoled (1000 mile my arse;-) the uppers are chromexel and will last forever though!) does anyone know a good place in England that would be able to do a good job?

[superfuzz]

I love the idea of this thread. I often drool over the resoled books here:

 

http://blog.brass-tokyo.com/

 

and here:

 

http://hukurokuju.com/blog/

[thinker0217]

I love the idea of this thread. I often drool over the resoled books here:

 

http://blog.brass-tokyo.com/

 

and here:

 

http://hukurokuju.com/blog/

I browse the two websites above everyday ;-)

Love the Clinch boots made by Brass Tokyo, too. Those Clinch boots look stunning. Have anyone got a chance to see them in person? They seem not to be mentioned and discussed a lot here.

[superfuzz]

The only thing I don't like about the Clinch boots (never seen them in person) is the super bulbous toe on the engineers. Ace Boot Co's instagram is pretty great for pics too:

 

http://instagram.com/acebootco#

[thinker0217]

The only thing I don't like about the Clinch boots (never seen them in person) is the super bulbous toe on the engineers. Ace Boot Co's instagram is pretty great for pics too:

 

http://instagram.com/acebootco#

But I love the toe shape on Clinch boots ;-) I think the lasts used on Clinch boots are pretty beautiful and unique.

The director of ACE boots, Mr. Ono, owns a vintage clothing shop in LA. I am sure his strong knowledge and experience as a vintage dealer help him to build the ACE boots with vintage-like taste. But, ACE boots are also seldom be mentioned here.  

[thinker0217]

Resoled Red Wing #2268 PT91

I replaced RW Nylon cord soles with Original Dr. Sole Raw Cord soles which contains pulverized hemp twine. 

I asked the cobbler to add the two extra circle stitches around the sole pattern. In terms of functionality, these two circle stitches are not necessary as the soles are fully stitched to the welt and the leather midsole along the edge. They are purely aesthetic and personal preference. 

[superfuzz]

I love this thread!

[thinker0217]

Wesco Boss

Black oiled leather

Motor Patrol Toe

1" longer instep strap

Replaced the Vibram #700 with Original Dr. Sole Cushion Sportsman

 

Before the resoled job:

 

After: 

 

 

 

Some friends told me that they prefer the original look to the resoled one. But, I like what they look like now :-)

Engineer boots with one-piece expanded material outsoles are really seldom discussed here. I guess it's probably the old school look with half soles and heels are still mainstream here. 

 

One thing worth being mentioned is that the sole stitches have become all around the boots, rather than the original three-quarter style. It is because there is a rubber midsole in 3mm thickness between the leather midsole and the rubber outsole. The rubber midsole is stitched to the leather midsole all aroun and the rubber outsole is attached to the rubber midsole by using glue only. This is pretty much like the way Red Wing Shoes attach their traction tread sole to the rubber midsole which is stitched to the welt.

 

The advantage is the ease to resole in the future. The worn-down outsole can just be pulled down from the rubber midsole, and attach the new outsole to the rubber midsole. That is, the turned-out vamp will not need to be stitched again during the resole job, prolonging the life of the vamp. 

Edited October 30, 2013 by thinker0217

[Piddan]

i also love this thread! awesome work

[thinker0217]

WESCO Jobmaster

8" height

Black Tie leather (shaft and tongue)

Black Fire leather (vamp and counter)

Brass hooks and eyelets

Brown leather lined

Double leather midsole

Replaced the Vibram #705 with Original Dr. Sole raw cord half sole

When I placed the order with Baker's in Sep. 2009, it cost me around $650. But, now, the cost for exactly the same options have gone up to $751.95. This reminds me of my first pair of WESCO Jobmaster, which only cost me only $279.9 back in 2004. This is really something that will never come back again.

Back to topic, actually, these Jobmasters don't change a lot after being resoled because Vibram #705s are also half soles. The only difference is the pattern of the soles and heels.

Like the WESCO boss that I posted yesterday, the sole-stitching job was done by hand-sewing, rather than sole-stitching machine, so that the turned-out vamp would not be destroyed. Besides, the edge of the soles and heels are also dyed in black. That's why the white hemp cords are not showing up.

Before:

After:

Edited October 30, 2013 by thinker0217

[thinker0217]

Nigel Cabourn x Viberg Service boots

Replaced the Dainite soles with Original Dr. Sole Raw Cord full sole

 

For a period of time in the mid 2011, I was so fascinated with the WWII field boots of USMC, or the so-called "boondocker boots." The dubbed rough out leather, the soft toe, and original corded outsoles on the original boondocker boots had been printed in my mind when I first  saw them on someone' blog. After doing some research online for several days, I tried to reach the WWII Impression to one pair of reproduction. However, my size 13D had been no longer available until the late 2012. That is to say, I had to be put on waiting list for over 1 year. I was so frustrated when I heard this from Juan, the owner of WWII Impression. However, almost the same day, I found someone throw these Nigel Cabourn x Viberg service boots on eBay for $499 buy it now. Then I thought, this was the destiny; I had to own these Vibergs. Since then they become one of my favorite boots. 

 

The original Dainite sole was really good; sleek, elegant, and durable. However, the corded soles on the vintage boondocker boots couldn't stop haunting my mind. I love the snowflake-like visual effect of pulverized cords showing up from the rubber surface with wear. Eventually, when I put the Raw Cord soles on these Vibergs, they become my ideal military field boots. 

 

New; just out of the box: 

Before the resole work:

 

After:

 

 

Continuous wear for about 10 days after resoled; the hemp cords start showing up from the rubber surface:

 

 

Expect them to become: 

picture from: http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/uniforms/usmc-boots-boondockers-compo-ww2-134393-2/

[thinker0217]

RRL Studded Engineer

Old: #705 half sole and Cat's Paw heels

New: Original Dr. Sole Raw Cord half sole and heels

These were once my holy grail of engineer boots in my mind (Well, since Mister Freedom doesn't make the Road Champs in size 13s). We can barely pick any fault from these boots; the shape of last, the materials, and craftmanship by world famous Julian boots. Except for the Vibram #705 x Cat's heels (It's really weird to put them on the same boot), everything seemed to be right. 

 

New; just out of box:

 

 

However, one thing I would never expect to happen on these boots happened after one month wear...

The heel counter upper and rand separated from each other. Both feet did...

 

Sad pictures:

 

Have anyone encountered this kind of issue on your RRL boots? Perhaps this is just a single case. I was really frustrated when this happened as they were expected to last years; not just a few days. I once considered to send them back to Julian for repair, but considering the international shipping cost and possible repair cost, these had been placed in my shoe cabinet for 18 months until now. 

 

The original #705 half soles and Cat's Paw heels were replaced by the Original Dr. Sole Raw Cord half soles and heels, and meanwhile, separating issue was repaired. The cobbler re-nailed the heel counter upper to the rand and leather midsole. I hope they would be as strong and sturdy as they should be after the repair job. I've been wearing them for four days in a row; so far so good. Besides, the Original Dr. Sole half soles and heels make them look right and more vintage-like :-)

 

Resoled:

Edited November 1, 2013 by thinker0217

[superfuzz]

Vintage Engineer Boots has a great resole of some Wesco Boss MP toe boots here: http://vintageengineerboots.blogspot.com/2013/10/takeshi-okuyama-my-wesco-boss-mp-toes.html

[thinker0217]

Vintage Engineer Boots has a great resole of some Wesco Boss MP toe boots here: http://vintageengineerboots.blogspot.com/2013/10/takeshi-okuyama-my-wesco-boss-mp-toes.html

Mr. Okuyama's works are definitely amazing!!

The double leather midsoles gain the height of the heels, making the MP toe last almost the same as the Narrow Last. For those who might be interested in, I heard from a local dealer of WESCO in Taiwan, the Narrow last was just opened as an order option again, which was exclusively open to WESCO Japan as the Japan-limited "Fight Master" (narrow last and shell cordovan used) was launched last year.  

BTW, John's blog inspires me (many of us?!) a lot in the field of engineer boots.

[superfuzz]

Thinker, does that mean that the narrow last is available in the US, or just Asian markets other than Japan? I would love a pair of Wesco narrows (especially in horsehide!).

[thinker0217]

Thinker, does that mean that the narrow last is available in the US, or just Asian markets other than Japan? I would love a pair of Wesco narrows (especially in horsehide!).

It is available as an order option in Taiwan, which means it is not Japan-limited now. As for US market, I am not sure but I think the possibility is high. Anyway, you'd better send WESCO an email for confirmation.

BTW, does WESCO offer horsehide as an order option? 

[SLAB]

thinker; expect a order for some of your soles; i'm really liking those designs

ps what size do I get for shoes US 8; seems smallest is 10?

[thinker0217]

thinker; expect a order for some of your soles; i'm really liking those designs

ps what size do I get for shoes US 8; seems smallest is 10?

Hi SLAB,

 

Thanks for the interest.

The sole sizes are not equal to shoe size. Besides, it depends on what type of your shoes are and what sole you are planning to use. Measurement is always recommended, especially when picking the size for heels. For example, the heels on WESCO/White's boots are usually higher and tapering slightly below. In this case, you might need to pick up a smaller size for your heels. I used size 10 heels on my WESCO Jobmaster and Red Wing #2268, which are both in US 13D. On the other hand, the heel profile on the boots like Red Wing Iron Ranger are lower and almost as wide as the heel counter part. In this case, larger heels are required.

 

Therefore, please refer to the size chart on our website. But, in my experience, sole size 10 should be OK on shoes US 8 because larger soles are always required while resoling; the sole will be trimmed along the edge. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers!

[thinker0217]

Some updates:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[thinker0217]

Updates of my Viberg Engineer

 

 

 

 

[superfuzz]

Beautiful boots!

[thinker0217]

Beautiful boots!

Thanks, man 

I'll keep updating.

[arahat]

Great thread thinker.

And some beautiful boots you have.

[thinker0217]

Great thread thinker.

And some beautiful boots you have.

Thanks a lot.

Hope more people would come here to share their resoled boots/shoes :-)

[smittybat]

Here's a couple of resoled Carolina Engineer boots done by Tulsa Shoe Rebuilders.

 

 

[thinker0217]

Here's a couple of resoled Carolina Engineer boots done by Tulsa Shoe Rebuilders.

 

 

Amazing job by the cobbler!

Did you re-welt them, or keep the original welt?

[superfuzz]

We need Coleslawyum to post some of his boots in this thread! I just sent some Alden Indy boots off to Willie's Shoe Service in LA to be resoled. I'll post pics when I get them back.

Edited November 9, 2013 by superfuzz

[smittybat]

Amazing job by the cobbler!

Did you re-welt them, or keep the original welt?

They were both rewelted

[onehundy]

make sure you tell raul at willies to stich the bottom of your sole. He does a sloppy job sometimes of just gluing it together.