Japanese selvage stores in Taipei?

[zk4025]

歷經兩年多的時間從尋找資料、走訪他國、收購歷年原始樣品、實際使用、

訪求古董金具、尋找適用皮革、、、終於！我的第二款包包完成了！！

這款由 小弟 與 Angelos 合作的 1950'S年代款式郵差包在前製作業時期就相當考究,

我們找遍美國由上個世紀一直到1970'S中期由郵政局發給郵務士使用的各式郵差包資料

也重金收購各個時期的多款 Vintage mail Bag ,

並且依據實際的實用需求與美觀、耐用、方便性做了多次的修正與討論,現在正式完成

與日前我們發表的第一款 Vintage Tote Bag （連結）具極大的差異性

首先Angelos 的朱大哥原本就是一位具有多年皮件精細製作的職人,

因此製作上我們一切從嚴考究並且精細製作接著在五金的挑選方面

為了考慮到符合植鞣牛革使用後產生的質感變化以及mail bag 本身的風格

我們使用美國當時製作原始mail bag 的原始五金,以求此款mail bag在使用一段時間後

各個細節能夠呈現與古董品相同的質感在整個包包製作上

我們用完全手工縫製來取代當時美國為求量產的粗糙車縫

因此工整、耐用只是我們的最基本原則,

還另外考慮到使用者慣用的磨耗以及金具的使用配合,力求達到最佳的狀況

此款 mail bag正面前蓋因為希望在日後久經使用能夠呈現特別的皮革原始紋路質感,

因此遠自英國引進保留牛革原始紋路的皮來作局部性奢侈的使用製作（使用後效果可參考下圖）

接下來細看縫製的細節和五金各部位

鉚釘部份我們使用當年的紅銅截斷式鉚釘,

也是目前強度最佳的鉚釘樣式,

而圖中鉚釘背面特殊的紋路正顯示這是古款鉚釘的印證紅銅截斷式鉚釘正面最難處理的截斷部位

我們為了考慮日後經久使用的氧化效果與不刮傷手或者他物的原則

也特別做了特殊的處理有別於一般僅是修毛邊的方式

其他各部位五金也使用1950'S的原始五金

背帶的襯墊我們以雙層皮革縫製改善老品原始設計的單層過薄質感

這是背起來的感覺,背帶的長度也可以依照個人需求的不同作調整

如果善加使用經過一段時間後相信就是下圖呈現的質感了

（上圖中的深色老包包與本次發表產品的尺寸比例相同）

[zk4025]

當初第一個成品樣式做出後背帶的長度是依照1960'S的原版mail bag規格製作

後來發覺當時的郵差多數是使用單肩背負這種包包因此原先我們的設定顯得有些短

為了力求完美,我們全部重新製作 ,將背帶的部份以及幾處小細結做了調整與修正

現在您看到的是完成後的背包樣式

將背帶放到最長,整個包包正好可以遮住臀部的位置

比起原先設定的長度（如下圖）應該好得多

修正過後相信會更提高整個包包的實用性

[zk4025]

上週三自己也開始使用這個Vintage 1950'S Type mail Bag了, 今天第一次上油

原皮色系的皮件在上油之後色澤會稍微加深,再加上長期使用經過日照、雨淋、、、、等等因素

色澤會更加深

照片是在上油之後表面完全吸收（以手觸摸完全沒有油的感覺）拍攝的

供大家參考這個包包皮質色澤的變化

袋蓋部位由於選用的皮革不同,在經過短時間使用就已經初步呈現當時設定的質感,

而五金的部份只能等待時間更長一點之後慢慢氧化了

若不以手觸摸皮革上自然的紋理只能從側面的角度看出

因為當初選用的這種皮革處理方式的特色所以皮質表面再經過使用後

光澤度會很棒

還記得當初原皮色時的外觀嗎？

回顧一下

這樣的差異變化應該會讓你有所感覺吧

[zk4025]

還記得當初發表這款包包時對於五金的部份相當在意嗎？

整個mail Bag上使用的鉚釘我們都使用古式的截斷型銅鉚釘

在鉚釘截面處的處理也相當重視

由於整個包包自己已經使用第二週了

今日突發奇想希望能在柳訂的細節上再作突破

於是拿出手邊的鈑金鎚再次DIY作進階性的加工

見過BROOKS椅墊上的手敲大銅釘嗎？

我正希望能做出類似的感覺

花了近一個小時在幾千次不停敲擊下,最後總算有自己想要的效果了

包括底部銅片的邊緣我也順便敲了一部份讓手摸時的觸感更圓滑

而中央突起的截斷處也敲成圓潤的形狀

觸感還不錯 （四周還看得到敲下來的銅屑）

原始我們出品時的鉚釘截面如上圖

經過自己的手工鈑金後也算是呈現另一種風貌

相信過一段時間使用的氧化之後會更有感覺

[mikecch]

That's awesome zk! Really tempted to order - if only I was in Taiwan right now~

Want me to translate?

[Vanquish Gold]

Wow ZK didn't know you are also in SUFU! Bought a Mister Freedom tee from you while I was in Taipei, really love your shop and pricing hehe.... same as japanese retail pricing.

[zk4025]

That's awesome zk! Really tempted to order - if only I was in Taiwan right now~

Want me to translate?

Thank you so much!

I'm not good in English !

[mikecch]

My translation of zk's post.

It took two years of gathering information, visiting overseas, purchasing original/vintage pieces, field testing of original pieces, gathering deadstock hardware, searching for the a suitable leather.........finally! Zk's bag (mk II) is complete!

This bag, a zk x Angelos collaboration, is based on the mail bags of the 1950's. We searched through bags that were issued to post-man by the Post Office from the 19th century to mid 1970's; and we have purchased vintage mail bags from many different eras.

We have undergone many discussions and corrections concerning the construction details for real world practicality, durability, user-friendliness and aesthetics - these revisions are now complete, and the final product is drastically different from the first version of the mail bag. Vintage Tote Bag

Mr. Zhu from Angelos is a very experienced leather craftsman with many years of experience - throughout the construction of the mail bag, we have been careful with the planning, making and selection of hardware in order to complement the evolution of the leather and the style of the mail bag in itself.

We have used the original metals that were used in the American manufacturing of the product, so that after a period of service, each aspect and different elements of the mail bag will display a vintage-look. We have chosen to completely hand-stitch the bag, instead of the original machine-stitching (which were roughly done) utilized for efficient production.

Neatness and durability were our primary philosophies, but we also strongly considered the wear n' tear of the various aspects of the bag and the matching of the hardware to the leather, to ensure a most usable and durable product.

Because we wanted the mail bag to show the changes in grain texture with age, we have imported vegetable tanned, 'naked' leather from England as the raw starting material. (Please refer to the pictures below)

Please have a look at the construction details and the hardwares used.

For the rivets, we have used the original, copper 'hammer-through' rivets - this is the strongest method of riveting that we have discovered. The unique texture on the backing of the rivet is a testament to the difficulty of this vintage riveting process.

In consideration of the desirable oxidation results and to ensure that the hardware does not injure the user's hands, we have used a special treatment process in finishing the hardware.

Original 1950's hardware were used in various aspects on the post-bag.

For the padding of the back-strap, we have improved upon the old single-layer leather design with a better double-layered construction.

This is how it looks in actual use, the length of the back-strap can be adjusted as preferred.

This is how it looks after a period of use.

[mikecch]

Translation continued...

The first version of this bag had a back-strap length according to the original mail-bag of the 1960's.

But then we realized that most post-man back then slung this bag over one shoulder, so that the length of the back-strap for our modern cross-shoulders carriage was inadequate.

In pursuit of perfection, we underwent a complete concept redesign and tweaked many small aspects in terms of construction.

The finished product is as below.

At the maximum length of the back-strap, the mail bag covers the seat-area of the pants

We think this looks better than version 1.

After the re-design, we think the usability of this bag has been improved.

[mikecch]

More here...

Last Wednesday I started using this vintage 1950'S type mail bag - today was the first application of oil for maintenance.

Veg. tanned natural leather will darken with the application of oil, this is furthered by usage and other factors including sun expsoure, water exposure, etc.

This pictures shows the colour and tone of the leather after the oil has been completely absorbed into the leather.

Due to the higher quality of the leather on the front flap, the change in colour and texture has been more dramatic. As for the hardware, the oxidation process will take some more time.

The texture of the leather can be seen side-on.

Due to the treatment process the leather has undergone, the sheen on the leather after prolonged use is quite excellent.

Still remember what it looked like originally, let's have a recap.

The evolution of this bag is quite something isn't it?

[mikecch]

The last little bit...

Still remember the emphasis we put into hardware selection?

All the rivets used on the mail bag have been incorporated using the vintage 'hammer-through and break-off' process. Special attention has been paid to the treatment of the fracture surface after the break-off process.

This is my second week of using the mail bag. I just had an idea on how to improve the rivet finishing.

So I got out a hammer and attempted some DIY.

Have you seen these big copper rivets on the Brooks chair？

I wanted to create a similar feeling.

After many hours and thousands of hammer strikes, I have recreated the result I had in my mind.

I've hammered the rivet backing also, for a smoother feel.

The raised central platform has been hammered in as well - I am happy with the result (you can still see copper fragments from the hammering)

The rivets on the retail product is as above.

I guess my DIY has lent it a slightly different 'flavour'.

I believe the oxidative process with age will now be more pronounced.

[schmallo15]

Great translation, mikecch. I'll probably stop by ZK's store sometime this week and take a look. Might even pick up one of these bad boys.

[mikecch]

Cheers mate! I would love to pick up one of those bags, but I no longer live in TW, and shipping to Australia is a bit on the expensive side

I think zk mentioned an one month turn-around time...

Anyway, I'm going to get some of zk's belts in the mail this arvo - so excited!

[zk4025]

跟上一週暴雨潮濕的氣候相比,這個星期的台北籠罩著烈日的荼毒,我的mail bag 使用步入第三週了

歷經上週數次的雨淋,這禮拜是無數的日曬,皮革表面摸起來早已不再有濕潤的油、水分

（這些日照並非刻意將mail bag靜置於某處刻意日曬,而是背著包包騎車通勤）

而當初設定使用不同皮質的部位也開始出現了深、淺的色差

袋蓋部位的皮革明顯的色澤上比袋身的皮料深不少

事實上這次選用的皮革色澤上的變化速度出乎自己當初的期待,實在快了點

而皮革表面光澤度則正常了不少

畢竟不是隨時背著它,所以皮革與身上衣料摩擦的次數仍不足夠

還要等一陣子才會有變化吧！

背帶部位與皮革的邊緣因為打磨與使用光澤是最早顯現的部份

使用老五金等待的就是這一刻,變色後的皮革果然跟老五金很搭

敲打過的銅釘短時間內很難會有變化的

近距離也不能忘記要再次細看

整個背面也都趕上進度了

[zk4025]

台灣的人材真的不少,這款手工雕製的純銅質腰鍊（不包含聖母像與眾鑰匙）是再次發掘出的好東西

除了使用純銅材質製作外,所有細部的製作都以純手工一分一毫的雕製而成

這款鑰匙頭是另外的款式也同時搶先曝光

隨腰鍊附上的墜飾除了另外可以變成項鍊墜飾外,也可以變成鑰匙頭

安裝鑰匙的孔位已經替使用者預留

細看小地方的處理不難發覺製作上的用心程度

[zk4025]

距離METALIZE 的手工製純銅腰鍊、鑰匙發表的日子越來越近了,這幾天忙壞了METALIZE 的的主人

再一次我有幸見到了更多的產品也確認了發表時的細節

很少看到品牌推出產品時不斷自己挑自己毛病！！不停找出缺點、不停想給使用者更好、更多

感覺像要嫁女兒一般的忐忑心情

沈甸甸的純銅做出的腰鍊、墜飾、鑰匙拿在手上真的很有份量

聖母像上的兩張臉孔細看下很難得讓自己感受到慈輝的神情,這樣的細緻程度似乎頭一回見到展現於如此小的作品上

鑰匙的部份分為

1.單純吊飾（鑰匙頭）可配成項鍊、吊飾

2.吊飾（鑰匙頭）加上現成的機車鑰匙（如照片中）可以直接配成鑰匙也可可配成項鍊、吊飾

3.吊飾（鑰匙頭）加上訂製的特殊鑰匙製作 可配成項鍊、吊飾

[mikecch]

^ Awesome - I need that chain!

[mikecch]

Sorry for the late translation~~~

There really are many artisans in Taiwan.

This hand-made copper chain (not including the virgin mary and the keys) is another treasure that I've discovered lately.

It's not just the 100% copper raw material, but every little detail has been carefully designed and realised.

This is another style of key, a pre-release sneak peak.

You can attach keys or other decorations to the wallet chain.

The hole for key installation has been pre-made for the user.

From even the smallest details it is obvious the amount of thought and work put into them.

[mikecch]

Last little bit~

As the release date of the METALIZE hand-made copper accessories draw closer, the owner of METALIZE has been very busy - but at the same time, I was lucky to have been able to see more of his handiwork and confirm the details of the soon to be released products.

It is rare to see a brand that is constantly picking bones with itself! Working non-stop to find the deficiencies in their products so that the end-user gets more in return.

It's almost like marrying off a daughter...

These chains, keys and key tags are made of heavy copper; gives quite a substantially feeling in your hands.

The two faces on the virgin mary key tag conveys a wonderful sense of kindness - this level of intricacy is rare on an item so small.

In terms of the keys, the following options are available:

1. Key tag (can be incorporated in necklaces and other accessories)

2. Key tag + Key (also can be incorporated into other accessories)

3. Key Tag + custom-made Key

[zk4025]

自從消息發送之後眾多人詢問的METALIZE 手工製純銅腰鍊、鑰匙今天終於正式發售了

這系列產品算是破了自己店內銷售產品的紀錄,成為目前為止詢問度最高的新鮮貨

由於製作尚須要不少手工的時間,因此目前採取訂購的方式

自訂購日起大約需要10~15個工作天可以交貨

鑰匙的部份若只購買飾品頭（沒有底下鑰匙身）售價：NT1080(單個）

若購買含鑰匙的整支（包含已自幾提供鑰匙訂製）售價：NT1580 （單支）

[pepper davies]

Any advice on how to order if you don't speak the language/from US?

[mikecch]

^ Get a Mandarin speaking friend to translate an e-mail for you?

[zk4025]

扣除上週的風雨天沒背出門以外,這個自家的mail Bag使用滿一個月了

按照慣例拍個照片紀錄一下

第四週的使用後皮革變化基本並不大,比較有趣的是五金的部份

皮革部份雖然顏色變化有限但是增加了不少使用的痕跡與皺折、刮痕

銅鉚釘的部份顏色已經漸漸顯現氧化的效果

細看當初手工敲擊鈑金的部份氧化更是快速且明顯

[zk4025]

這款由 Angelos 、faith、 METALIZE 三方共同合作 由faith 推出的 “4 SEASON"

今天正式登場 共有“Natural" 、“Brown" 兩色

它適用於任何一個季節、場合、風格、服裝的搭配

可以拿來當作手環、項鍊、腳環、腰鍊、吊飾、、、、等等多功用的飾品

隨著不同的配戴方法也可以適合於不同的手腳粗細尺吋,甚至沒有男女的區別

為了維護品質我們堅持自行開發五金、自行研製皮革不採用市面上以碎皮壓製的膠合皮繩

甚至縫合完工部份與皮面處理我們都以獨特的方式製作

[nachtelijk]

i made a small pictorial guide for those who wants to go to Take5 & Faith in Taipei

1. take the Metro to ZhongXiao DunHua station.

2. there are 2 exit gantries, this is the correct one:

3. follow the signs (this exit has only stairs, if u encounter escalators... u're @ the wrong one)

4. u're @ correct exit if u see this across the road

5. now turn behind u, and u will see TKK Chicken & Esprit (the street is right between these 2)

6. here's how it looks

7. walk straight but keep to the sides coz vehicles use thses roads as well. u will be on the right track if u see these:

old noodle shop on the right side of the street

a 7-11 on the left side of the street

8. keep on walking and u'll see Take5 on the right side of the street (it's on level 2)

9. Faith is on the same side of the street, just 20 steps more and u'll see it. no picture coz by then it's really dark and i'm terrible with night pictures.

[oomslokop]

are faith and take5 still where they are as described above? (thanks nachtelijk!) i might be going to taipei next month. and where's summit?

[Snake]

Take5 Taipei is closing down. Faith should be at the same place.

[jigsaw]

what? they closing down? how come?

[Snake]

Not sure. I saw the news on Zack's blog.

[edmond]

yeah theyre closing down