tailoring selvedge denim without cutting the selvedge

[pcflyers91]

I have a pair of ironheart 634s that I've had for a while; however I haven't worn them as of late because they aren't tapered and look fat towards the bottom. I was wondering if it was possible to taper the jeans by cutting the inside inseam instead of the outside with the selvedge. I went to some vietnamese guy the other day and he said he couldn't do it but I could understand what he was trying to say. Options?

thanks

[thirdhand]

It is possible. They can open up the selvedge side, and take in the excess fabric there.

With a normal taper, your tailor would probably take a little from both sides of the leg. Doing this helps avoid the fabric bunching in strange areas. The thing with pants you would normally taper (dress trousers, nicer khakis) is that they're designed with the understanding that the end user may have them altered. Jeans not so much so you're kind of playing with fire. Safest bet is to find a cut that fits you and roll with them.

Edit: It should be easier for most places to just open the selvedge side and sew it back because it's simpler than tinkering with the overlock stitch on the inside seam. Your selvedge lines will be fatter if you go with cuffs, but whatever.

Edited January 14, 2012 by thirdhand

[M1stral]

Tapering a pair of jeans on the inseam is possible, just don't know how the process works. I always buy fits that I want, not jeans that I want to alter.

[RPMFG]

to leave the selvedge the same, the process would need to go something like this (for a topstitched inseam, not felled):

1 - undo the whole hem

2- rip the outseam up to where the taper would begin

3 - rip the topstitching on the inseam to the same point

4 - with the jeans inside out, iron the inseam flat, stitch the new taper line

5 - serge parallel to the this line, which removes the extra material

6 - continue the topstitching on the inseam

7 - redo the outseam in the same exact place

8 - redo the hem, may require re-cutting.

so yes it's possible, but it is quite a bit of work. and the tailor is likely going to run into issues continuing the topstitching in an attractive way. it's the kind of thing I would attempt for the right price, but with no guarantee. and I think most tailors would cringe at sewing heavy denim.

[Geeman]

my tailor does it, he takes in up the inside seam and it works fine. It does effect the rise a little as it is took up right into the crutch. Really happy with the pairs i have had done. if your in the uk check out the denim doctor in cross street manchester.

[commodorewheeler]

I know that Denim Doctors tapers on the inseam so that the selvage isn't touched. They accept mail-ins, so it might be worth checking out even if you are not in California.

[obiwan]

yes it is possible to tapering jeans by cutting the inseam but you need to send it to denim expert. Im from Malaysia and just took my sd001 from altering today. The jeans now is tapered from knee to leg and it fit nicely. Will try to update with pic soon.

[knucks]

Never saw the point of getting jeans and doing alterations like this. Find a fit that suits your needs, IMO

[Steven RFG]

Just wanted to throw this up. We here at Railcar do leg tappering service. Comes with a chain stitch bottom hem. We are located in Arcadia, California but you can always ship them to us. email me for us for more details and to set up service.

Pretty much let us know how big you want the bottoms and how high you want the tapper and thats it. We do it from the inseam, so youll keep the original selvedge edge.

Edited January 20, 2012 by Steven RFG

[pisces8113]

i actually had my raw selvage denim sent to railcar early last week and just got them back yesterday. the tappering was nicely done, and through the inseam so the selvage still retains its original look. i also had the jeans hemmed with chainstitching on the bottom, a nice touch that my jeans didnt have before hand. before you send them in though be sure you know the exact mesurements you want, maybe use your favorite pair of jeans that already fit well as a guide. the process is pretty simple, just mark what you want altered with pins or tape. i marked mine for the tappering just above the knee, put in some pins for the length i wanted, sent a little note with some measuremnts just in case the pins magically fell out in the mail along with the leg opening measurement- mine was 7.75 inches so you can be as precise as you want heh. Rail Car Fine Goods manufactures their own quality selvage denim so they have all the equipment to alter your jeans in a way most local tailors could not.

[Thor]

Man, whats wrong with the jeans as the maker made them ?

The selvage is there because the denims have been made in the old way, on old style looms.

So, more often than not, this is reflected in the retro cut, mostly a "stovepipe" leg

If you want some skinny-ass jeans , buy some cheap mondays.

[hiharry626]

pisces how much did it cost?

[dawei94]

Steven at railcar quoted me $50 for tapering, a chainstitched hem and shipping back to me

Edited January 23, 2012 by dawei94

[Madder_Lake]

I've had this done. On one pair of jeans I simply had them tapered on the selvedge side as well and just enjoyed the fatter selvedge line. It doesn't look too bad!

[hiharry626]

is it cheaper ^ ? I agree it doesn't look too bad makes it stand out more, but 50 for a taper and chainstitched hem? what if I do not want a chainstitched hem?

[dawei94]

is it cheaper ^ ? I agree it doesn't look too bad makes it stand out more, but 50 for a taper and chainstitched hem? what if I do not want a chainstitched hem?

Well for me I'm asking they be hemmed as well. It would probably be cheaper if you wanted to keep it at the same length. If you want like a regular, non chainstitched hem, I doubt that would cost much less. He has the machine in his shop, so getting another machine to do a regular hem wouldn't be any cheaper. I was just pointing out it was a chainstitched hem so that if there was someone who wanted to keep the chainstitch, they would know Steven can do both the tapering and the hem

[Madder_Lake]

Well for me I'm asking they be hemmed as well. It would probably be cheaper if you wanted to keep it at the same length. If you want like a regular, non chainstitched hem, I doubt that would cost much less. He has the machine in his shop, so getting another machine to do a regular hem wouldn't be any cheaper. I was just pointing out it was a chainstitched hem so that if there was someone who wanted to keep the chainstitch, they would know Steven can do both the tapering and the hem

Hi — I had it done in Chatswood, Sydney, and the cost for tapering was $50 I think. That included adjusting the hem, though they didn't need to be chainstitched afresh, just rejoined.

[dawei94]

Hi — I had it done in Chatswood, Sydney, and the cost for tapering was $50 I think. That included adjusting the hem, though they didn't need to be chainstitched afresh, just rejoined.

I mean't that I want them to be shorted as well as tapered. In which case, I think a new chainstitch is probably necessary, given that hemming includes cutting off the bottom portion of the legs

[jbanger]

just buy in a cut you like ffs

[Thor]

what he said

[deluxestyling]

just sent railcar a pair of new LVC '22 201's to have an inch tapered off the inseam. even after a hot soak they came up an inch wider at the hem than my LVC '33 501's so they just didn't work for me. They've spent a couple of years sitting in a drawer not getting worn so this service was exactly what I needed.

i could have sold them on at a loss or spend $60 to make them tiptop and then get some wear them.

[dawei94]

Sometimes tapering is your only option if you want a certain denim (like Sugar Cane or Oni's denim) and a slimmer cut. You could just buy a different pair, or you could get the first pair and taper them, and then be happy with both the denim and the cut, rather than one or the other

[Bradapalooza]

Sometimes tapering is your only option if you want a certain denim (like Sugar Cane or Oni's denim) and a slimmer cut. You could just buy a different pair, or you could get the first pair and taper them, and then be happy with both the denim and the cut, rather than one or the other

This - or peoples tastes can change while there jeans still have a lot of life left in which case it makes more sense to spend 60 bucks and get it how you like than it does to drop 150-600 dollars for new raw jeans.

if possible buy the right cut in the first place. If you feel like changing it, go ahead.

Edited January 23, 2012 by Bradapalooza

[Kwaker]

to leave the selvedge the same, the process would need to go something like this (for a topstitched inseam, not felled):

1 - undo the whole hem

2- rip the outseam up to where the taper would begin

3 - rip the topstitching on the inseam to the same point

4 - with the jeans inside out, iron the inseam flat, stitch the new taper line

5 - serge parallel to the this line, which removes the extra material

6 - continue the topstitching on the inseam

7 - redo the outseam in the same exact place

8 - redo the hem, may require re-cutting.

so yes it's possible, but it is quite a bit of work. and the tailor is likely going to run into issues continuing the topstitching in an attractive way. it's the kind of thing I would attempt for the right price, but with no guarantee. and I think most tailors would cringe at sewing heavy denim.

Just wanted to throw this up. We here at Railcar do leg tappering service. Comes with a chain stitch bottom hem. We are located in Arcadia, California but you can always ship them to us. email me for us for more details and to set up service.

Pretty much let us know how big you want the bottoms and how high you want the tapper and thats it. We do it from the inseam, so youll keep the original selvedge edge.

You guys make your own jeans, so I'd appreciate your input on a fit issue that I've had with many jeans to varying degrees ... the wedgie.

I think that I've narrowed down the issue to the shape the back seam. If the seam is too straight, it creeps up my crack. Some have advised to sag or go for a higher rise ... but neither has worked satisfactorily.

Would tailoring the seat help? My better fitting jeans and trousers have a much more shaped back seam that better accommodates my prominant rump. Additionally, shaping the back seam automatically increases the length of the back seam/rise.

I'm curious to try on the Japan Blue Momotaro jean to test my theory. It has a very shaped back rise. But, I'd like to know what you guys think.

FYI ... I've since sold the F380 featured above.

Edited January 26, 2012 by Kwaker

[Steven RFG]

You guys make your own jeans, so I'd appreciate your input on a fit issue that I've had with many jeans to varying degrees ... the wedgie.

I think that I've narrowed down the issue to the shape the back seam. If the seam is too straight, it creeps up my crack. Some have advised to sag or go for a higher rise ... but neither has worked satisfactorily.

Would tailoring the seat help? My better fitting jeans and trousers have a much more shaped back seam that better accommodates my prominant rump. Additionally, shaping the back seam automatically increases the length of the back seam/rise.

I'm curious to try on the Japan Blue Momotaro jean to test my theory. It has a very shaped back rise. But, I'd like to know what you guys think.

FYI ... I've since sold the F380 featured above.

Yeah, the seat area seams right there is probably going to be the hardiest part to alter. Very hard to recreate that seam as the original seam is chain stitched on the inside. I wouldnt get that altered.

The hook you talk about has to do with the wedgy effect some sort. But isnt the answer. Its the geometry of the all the panels. The angles, curves and widths of the top block makes the fit. It needs a balance of all of those variables to get the perfect hanging seat. So just fixing the hook you show in the seat wont help.

Put it this way, if you are planing on removing fabric in the "crack" area to create that curve.. Your going to have less fabric there and it will wedgy even more.

You want a little bit of the wedgy effect so the jeans look fitted and flattering. But too much is not good as you will look like you have a jean murph. Without a little bit of the wedgy effect, it may look like you crapped your pants and or look unfitted. You want the perfect balance.

Even for dudes. You need to look at your butt. And check to see if the seat is hanging how you like. If not, then that seat cut isnt probably for you. The seat fit is probably the hardiest to alter.

Edited January 27, 2012 by Steven RFG

[Thor]

I always use my tailor in Saville Row. He takes all my measurements and makes them fit perfectly. However he insists on making them out of wool and calling them trousers.

[Kwaker]

thanks steven, I appreciate the insight

so owing to my anatomy, i'll actually have to try on stuff in store since measurements and pics alone won't be enough to indicate a good seat hang

i envy those guys who just have to worry about big thighs

Edited January 27, 2012 by Kwaker

[WE350B]

fortuitously saw this topic just when i thought of finally selling off my IH 634s due to non-usage for almost two years, as the cut doesn't really work for me. i'm only about 20 miles from steven at railcar but had to send them in. (next time, i'd like to take up steven's invitation for a factory tour and pick up a railcar pair). long story short, and i know i don't really post but i'm no shill either, i couldn't be happier with the tapering mod done to my 634s. it still respects the cut, but more suited to my less-than-gigantic thighs, and the alteration craftsmanship is just superb. you really could hardly tell that they were altered. steven knows his shit! anybody wanna buy a pair of unused final run OG roy's? (just kidding lol)

[tmadd]

I'm in the same camp as the guys who are opposed to the idea of tapering jeans to achieve a slimmer look. However, I have an alternate proposal, the success of which I think might surprise some people who haven't tried it: Cuff your jeans higher than you normally would, to the point that they don't break on your shoes at all. You can do this with fat cuffs, or with super skinny rolls. If your inseam is way long, this might necessitate getting your jeans hemmed. When there is no break, you avoid the "jeans eating your shoes" or faux bootcut look that drives a lot of dudes into tapered jeans. All of the guys I know that look best in their jeans are wearing fuller cuts and cuffing with no break. This eliminates the potential for sick stack fadez, but that shit has been old for a long time anyways. Seriously, before you try tapering, just give it a try.

[Steven RFG]

fortuitously saw this topic just when i thought of finally selling off my IH 634s due to non-usage for almost two years, as the cut doesn't really work for me. i'm only about 20 miles from steven at railcar but had to send them in. (next time, i'd like to take up steven's invitation for a factory tour and pick up a railcar pair). long story short, and i know i don't really post but i'm no shill either, i couldn't be happier with the tapering mod done to my 634s. it still respects the cut, but more suited to my less-than-gigantic thighs, and the alteration craftsmanship is just superb. you really could hardly tell that they were altered. steven knows his shit! anybody wanna buy a pair of unused final run OG roy's? (just kidding lol)

Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for giving me the opportunity to work on your jeans. Im glad you are happy with my work. Yeah, next time stop by our shop!